I have a 2004 Chevy 1500. I replaced my rear brake pads on Monday. I noticed all week that the rear brakes were running hot, but the salesman at the parts store told me that it was okay. Friday I pulled off the pads and saw that one side had started to burn. Saturday I replaced the calipers and another set of pads. Today, Sunday, I noticed that the rear brakes are still hotter than the front brakes.
View 5 RepliesI didn't need to replace the rear shoes. I just did it because the front brake pads were worn and I thought the rear shoes might be worn also. The front brakes were super easy to replace. The rear brakes not so easy. I ended up using a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench just to loosen the spindle/hub nut so I could remove the brake drum.
I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. This was supposed to auto adjust the brakes. There is no adjuster slot. (The front brakes are stopping fine.)
The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working?
Brought my car for an oil change at 42000 km (26000 mi) and asked the dealership to check my brakes since I've been hearing a noise for the last 2 weeks. Ended up having to replace both rear disks and pads. Dealer said everything was seized up and that they were able to rescue my front brakes by doing brakes service on them.
Next day, the exact same thing on my girlfriend's 2012 Accent..! Dealer told me that brakes need to be serviced every single year to avoid this...! Really??? I never heard of that before and needless to say, I didn't expect to get a 500$ + bill on a new car...
I checked with my mechanic and he did inspect my brakes at 24000 km (14900 mi) as I asked him and that everything was working perfectly.
I just replaced the front break pads. I didn't replace the rotors or get them machined, didn't look like they needed them. Once I pushed on the brakes (truck off) I noticed that brake fluid spilled out the brake reservoir. I'm guessing it happened when I compressed the piston into the caliper? I took some of the fluid out of the reservoir and now its at MAX (I didn't bleed them). I've only been only be able to stop and go on the driveway (I'm waiting on a new radius arm bracket). The brakes seems spongy, the brake hits the floor. ABS and Brake lights came on then turned off once I started to pump them when I turned the truck 'on'. Do I just need to actually drive and "break" the breaks in?
View 2 RepliesI have a 93 Chevy Cheyenne with a 4.3L engine. My speedometer is running about 10MPH fast when at freeway speed. The truck has factory rims and the tire size has not changed. What to check? I'm thinking maybe the vehicle speed sensor?
View 2 RepliesI've begun restoring my grandpas 1970 Chevy c/10 but I can't seem to get the brake drums to budge. I tried several cans of lubricant and even beat on one with a sledge hammer till the outside broke off. But the front face of the drum still won't come off. How to remove them?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2007 Chevy HHR. A couple of weeks ago I had to change the caliper on the driver's side of the car. I had some squeaking after, but bled the brakes and the squeaking went away. The other day I took the caliper off and painted it. I have custom wheels and you can see the caliper plainly, it was rusted so I painted it. Now I am getting the squeaking again, but it stops when I apply the brakes. I bled them again, but still the squeaking. This is driving me crazy. Could it be the "chirper" that is dragging on the rotor? Also I want to add, it squeaks until I get up to about 45 mph. Then it stops. And as I said, it stops when I apply the brakes.
View 6 RepliesMy husband replaced the brakes on my 2005 suburban and they are squealing constantly now. He says it's normal and will go away as I drive it, I've only done about 3 miles so far but no better. So keep driving or something isn't right? For what it's worth he grew up in his dad's auto shop and has restored some cars so not a pro but definitely competent and he swears they are installed correctly.
View 16 RepliesI have a 1997 F150, 4X4. My mechanic says its time for new brakes and was curious if it would be worth possibly converting from drum brakes to disc brakes??
My mechanic has quoted me $300 to do the rear brakes, would it be worth the extra money to convert??? I really don't care for drum brakes. I have done a search on the internet and every time it brings up the issue with the parking brake.
i have a 2005 chevy malibu classic. a few months ago it started sputtering when we would try to crank it and would take several tries before it would run, then it stopped. So far we have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, idle air control valve and crankshaft sensor, and it still wont stay running when you try to give it the gas, it dies....
View 4 RepliesI have chevorlet caprice 2006 LTZ, whenever I switch off my car after running with AC on (means heat shows 50%) does not start. It simply cranks up but does not start,I try 3-4 times it starts, everything works fine . It starts perfectly in morning or after idle for long time. What stops the start, is it the fuel pump? I did computer scan but nothing detected.
View 6 RepliesSo about 3 weeks ago, I was driving down the road at about 55 mph, on cruise control, when my car just started slowing down. I looked to see all of my dashboards lights on and I realized my car was not running. I shifted into neutral and the car started right up again, but when I pushed on the gas it just kind of stuttered and shuttered before dying again. When I came to a stop, again the car started right up, but repeated the shuttering and hesitating when I pushed on the gas and tried to get going again.
So, I repeated, but this time i just pushed very gently on the gas, getting up to between 5-10 mph before the car died again. At this point, it just stopped running completely. The engine would turn over, but would not keep running. When I got it into the shop, the mechanic said they put a fuel pressure gauge on there and the readings indicated that there was plenty of pressure, no problems the fuel pump or lines.
After further research, the mechanic said he thought it was an electrical problem, that it could be the crankshaft sensor or the ignition switch module, but he just did not really know for sure. I had him replace the crankshaft sensor, since it was the cheaper part, and it didn't fix the problem. So now I am just kind of stuck on what to do here.
i have a chevy venture and it was running just fine untill this morning it started to have a good amount of smoke coming from the exhaust and is running rough i took it to the autozone and had the codes checked since i let someone borrow my code reader but when i went there and had it done i got 5 codes out of it and they are....
p0300
p0301
p0463
p1106
p1189
What happened to it since it was running just fine all yesterday and before...
I have a 1999 chevy s10 2.2 L that just shut down while driving, I have replaced crank shaft sensor, ecm, ignition control module, coil packs and still having issues, she will start now but won't stay running, what else it could be, it has been down for almost 5 months.
View 1 RepliesThe locks on my 2005 Chevy cobalt sound like they are trying to lock and unlock when the car is running. The locks themselves don't move while this is happening. It has been to the dealer twice and no luck. The first time it went in, they said the left and right lock switches were shorted so they replaced them. The second time it went in they said that the ground wires were corroded and they fixed that problem. The car drove fine for a few days, now the same problem is occurring.
View 1 RepliesWe have a 2002 Malibu with 216,000 miles. Car in excellent condition and always garage kept. We have used the same mechanic for many years until this year when he closed his shop. We do plan to replace the car next year, but it's just not necessary to do so just yet.
A couple of month ago someone rear ended me and the body shop replaced the trunk weather stripping, rear bumper, light assemblies, repainted the trunk/bumper/rear side panels.
Several weeks ago, while hubby was pulling the car out of the garage I noticed every time the brake is pressed the backup lights come on too. I then checked turn signals, all other lights, etc. Everything else appears normal except this oddity.
I took it back to the body shop and told them what was happening and said it had to be something done during the repair work. He checked and said everything was hooked up correctly and I needed to take it to a mechanic because it wasn't anything they did.
I have researched and researched and found several other people with this problem. One answer was that the new light assembly was after market and the "pins" were not compatible with the original wiring harness. Another was that the wiring harness coming from the trunk was somehow damaged.
I have this weird noise that comes from the engine compartment and you only hear it when the A/C compressor is running and the gears are engaged while braking. It sounds like a low whirr that goes on for a few seconds. I noticed that if I shift into neutral and engage the brakes while the A/C is running the sound does not come on, also if I have noticed that there is no noise if the A/C is OFF. Could that be the compressor? the idler pulley? the belt tensioner??
View 4 RepliesI own a 2004 Silverado 1500. Nearly every time I drive, I loose temperature control on the driver's side after about 15 minutes of running the engine. The passenger's side seems to be working fine. I'm not sure if it is a bad rheostat on the driver's side or a bigger issue.
View 6 RepliesI bought new brakes for the R, Hawks HPS pads with ECS tuning 2 peice rotors.
Me and a friend installed them in June. I went threw the break in procedure written on the box that came with the pads. The brakes work fantastic, they stop the car so much better than stock but the problem I have now is that loud squeak when braking normally. If I do a hard braking no squeak but I can't do that all the time, my passengers are going to hate me hehe. The squeak sounds almost like metal on metal grinding. When I inspect the rotors everything looks fine.
When installing them I used the paste that came with the pads and installed the metal backing that came with them too. I can't seem to figure out what I did wrong. Haven't really had time to take everything apart again either but I think I might do that this weekend but before I do that is there anything I should have on hand?
I've been in some version of a Volvo since I inherited my parents brick-colored sedan in high school. It was a tank, ran forever and kept me safe and protected. Years later I bought a new black Volvo sedan. In 2006 with a hubby and two kids, I decided that I could graduate to the SUV. Feeling like I'd made a fantastically safe and practical decision, I drive my silver XC90 to work and on road trips. It's not the fanciest nor sexiest vehicle, but I feel my family is safe.
Hard working folks should not have huge budget surprises like my Volvo SUV has turned into. Little did I know what I was getting myself into when I made this purchase. When I took it into the Culver City dealer for my 30,000 mile service yesterday, I found out that my Volvo XC90 needed it's second replacement rotors and brake pads. I'd already been through this expense at 17,000 miles, much to my surprise. I'd never heard of needing to replace brake pads and rotors at 17,000.
Now, at 30,000 miles the local dealer's service department told me I needed another set at a cost of $1,000.
I have friends driving a Toyota or a Honda that rarely require maintenance or repairs. Volvo is an expensive vehicle to buy and it gets you every time you visit the service department and all repairs are expensive. It's disappointing to say the least.
My 89 240 is a project car so I am just fixing everything up as new until it's all done.
Replaced the Brake Booster with a fully reconditioned one, a new master cylinder, full pressure bleed, new pads. Now I have fantastic brakes but they feel super spongy still . As an example, I make an emergency stop to check if they are ok and after stopping just fine , the pedal still wants to go down further. I have checked all the flexible lines for ballooning and they are ok .