Chevy Malibu Maxx :: 2005 - Front Driver Side Brake Caliper Does Not Retract
Jul 13, 2014
I have a 2005 chevy malibu maxx. The front driver side brake caliper does not retract unless i open the bleeder screw. if I leave it overnight it will retract until i have to use it a couple times then ill have to open the bleeder screw. I've been told if the piston retracts when i open the bleeder then the caliper is OK. What i should look for? (It does have ABS).
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I have a 2004 Malibu Maxx hatchback. It has been a solid car since we rolled it out of the showroom. Recently, I noticed when I raise the adjustable driver's seat after my petite wife has driven the car, the seat tilts to the right. After a survey of the power seat mechanics I found a broken front rail. It appears as if the end of the rail where it connects to the hinge is being peeled back as if I were removing the wraper of a crayon. I have only found one other post on the internet. Is this is a common problem?
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One of the pistons in my driver side (UK) front brake caliper is sticking, so I've bought a second hand caliper just to fix the problem until I come to sell my pri in a month or so.
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2005 Toyota Solara my front driver side caliper was sticking and heating up a couple months ago... replaced the caliper and the rotor... still had the same problem. I would drive it, it got hot and stuck, after I parked for a little while it slowly released. Talked to a couple of mechanics and they both said undoubtedly I had a bad flex hose and it was collapsing with pressure and then will release... I changed the flex hose and flushed the fluid and it was immediately fixed...no problems.
Drove the car for a month, went to South Carolina and back and then a couple days ago the same thing started happening. Talked to a mechanic, he told me that the new caliper may have gotten fried from over heating before I changed the flex hose... Got a new caliper today (warranty) exchange... changed it out and still have the same problem. When it sticks I can release the pressure by opening the bleeder valve so it seems like the flex hose issue again... my only thought now is maybe the new flex hose is a bad one and someone mentioned the proportioning valve.
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I have an 05 with a seized front caliper. What other vehicle has the same one? Does 4 runner or any other Toyotas have the same caliper?
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My 2004 Toyota Highlander with 84K miles has been diagnosed with a seized front driver side brake caliper with worn brake pad (1/32). I had recall work done a few days ago at the dealership and this was discovered afterward during the "complimentary" multi-point check-up. - You know, the long laundry list of recommended work they try to sell you on. Of course the brake work is actually necessary.
Since the vehicle was just inspected 2 months ago at our local shop, my husband suggested I take it back there to verify the diagnosis and see what that mechanic would recommend. That mechanic confirmed and showed me the seized caliper/worn pad, which, by the way, was functioning well in mid January at inspection, and measured 7/32. This mechanic recommends replacing both calipers, pads, turning rotors. There was no indication of a problem with the RF caliper, but he says it's just a good idea to replace it so we would avoid having another problem in the future.
I want to ask everyone's opinion regarding replacement of just the bad caliper vs. both. Are we getting ripped off as far as the estimate and is the flush necessary? Also, is this issue typical in the first place, and what causes a brake caliper to seize? We've had several other vehicles driven many more miles than my Highlander and never experienced a seized caliper.
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I have a 2005 Malibu Maxx and there is an intermittent very rattling vibration coming from the front end that magically clears up when I take it to be serviced. It seems to happen most on the highway at sustained speeds. You can really feel it in the steering wheel and it seems to clear up when slightly turning left or right. When it does happen, we pull the car over to the side, or turn it off a while and it is gone until next time. The last time felt like it was the worst and really difficult to accelerate the car from a stop, felt like the emergency brake was on when it wasn't. It also didn't clear up after a stop, had to turn it off a while.
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This is my second time posting for the same issue on a 2003 3.5L with 120,000+ miles. Rear driver side brake caliper is stuck again. I have replaced both rear calipers after the driver side stuck a few months back. So most likely the first time was caused by something else.
What else could be causing this? Brake line, master cylinder, or other? I did not replace any brake lines the last time this happened. Just calipers and pads.
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Long story: I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu base. About more than a month ago I was driving home from work my car stalled about 3 times. I was able to finally get home I checked the oil and to my shock there was none. I quickly put some in and my car started just fine didn't stall again. I drove it the next day nothing. Then the day after that I drove it to Walmart on the way back it stalled like 7 times and after that last time it wouldn't turn on. I got it towed to a shop where my car remained for over a month. The crank position sensor was replaced, the battery, and the ignition switch. I was told it was fixed, picked it up drove it to a town 30 minutes away it was fine, then drove it back it started stalling every 5 minutes.
Managed to take it back to the shop, they couldn't figure out why it was shutting off so they got a second opinion at a Chevy dealership nearby and they replaced the ignition control module. I picked up my car drove it around for awhile and the check engine light came on I was near pepboys they checked the code which said I needed to get the catalytic converter check/replaced. So I drove my car home. Next day drove it all day it stayed on, thought my problem was solved. Then that evening turned it on and within a few minutes the engine shut off and now it won't start at all. The mechanics that I took it to obviously don't know what the issue is nor do the mechanics at Chevy. It is not the fuel pump that's one things that can be crossed out. Or is my car done and should be junked?
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i have a 2005 chevy malibu classic. a few months ago it started sputtering when we would try to crank it and would take several tries before it would run, then it stopped. So far we have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, idle air control valve and crankshaft sensor, and it still wont stay running when you try to give it the gas, it dies....
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Car Stats: 2005 Chevy Malibu, Automatic
Just recently while driving my car at a normal speed...(Like 55mph wanted to speed up gradually to 60mph) ..I will push the accelerator and my car wont go any faster. It will act like it is switching to passing gear and then the engine will rev up, the car will lurch forward and then it will finally take off. The RPM's also will increase and then suddenly drop back down to normal.
Also I think this is related to the problem. .... but... when I put the car in the low gear to where I can manually shift it to first second and third. It used to automatically be in the 1st gear... but now it will show up in the third gear and you cannot shift into any other gear.
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I've been smelling gasoline fumes outside rear and sides of 2004 Malibu Maxx. No DTCs setting, although I left gas cap off while running, opened port of purge solenoid (also while engine running), and checked all fuses marked emissions. Dealer said they needed to charge $500 just to take tank down to check for leaks. Does not matter if it is cold or been running for an hour.
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I changed the rear brake pads on my 2002 Elantra and the caliper pistons would not retract to fit over the pads. After 11 years of weather exposure the pistons were frozen. I removed the calipers, soaked the pistons with WD-40 and penetrating oil and heated the housing with a hair dryer. Doing this periodically for a day I got the pistons to break free. I removed the pistons for inspection and they were severely corroded. I ordered two rebuilding kits on line which included all seals and pistons.
The pistons are threaded and screw into a threaded rod inside the housing. Should I thread the pistons in until they bottom out, or should I turn them out until they touch the inner brake pad?
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I recently acquired a 2011 F150 Platinum. Nice truck! It has the automatic deploying running boards. They're nice but one problem: the driver side board takes about 15-17 seconds to retract after closing the door. This is way too long a time. The passenger side retracts after only 2-4 seconds, which is good. The dealer researched this to see if there is any way to adjust the driver side, but found nothing. I'd like the driver side running board to retract sooner after closing the door, like the passenger side.
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I've run into a problem while doing brakes on my friends 2005 Sebring. I can't seem to get the brake caliper off. There is a little rubber boot with a plastic cap that is where the bolts that hold the calipers in place are. How to get the bolts out to remove the caliper. In fact, it doesn't seem like there are any traditional bolt heads in the plastic cover.
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So I was trying to track down this squeak noise and I removed the drivers side seat belt but now the belt will not retract? It's stuck like this, is there a manual release? Buying another one is not a option right now. And I have to drive the car tomorrow morning.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Venture and the blower (Vent, AC, Heater, doesn't matter) is only blowing air out of the left or driver side of the van, nothing on the passenger side vents. There aren't 2 blower motors, are there? Is a door shut that shouldn't be? This van doesn't have dual climate control like my GM cars do. The rear controls work fine for the 2nd row passengers. Again, not tied to any blower speed or heat vs. AC. Same regardless. Nothing on the passenger side.
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I have a leak from the rear driver caliper, it seems to come from behind the bolts that hold the emergency brake to the caliper (I had my wife push the pedal repeatedly so I could find the issue). I haven't been able to remove the retaining bolts (the allen head bolt doesn't want to play) to see what the issue might be.
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Yesterday (well for a while, but yesterday was bad) I had some brake issues, turns out the passenger side front caliper went bad (corroded, doesn't retract) so I need to get another one. Only place I saw Red caliper for my jazz blue for sale was on ecstuning and that was 189. Seems a little steep so I was wondering if there are any other places who sell the Red OEM calipers. If not I might just go through ecs.
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Someone had worked on the car and front caliper pins got mixed up. Where the pin with the rubber piece goes into. The top or bottom of the caliper. and is it the same for both sides.
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Is it possible to be able to Drive an R with the drivers side rear caliper bolts missing?
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