Chevy - Malibu :: 2003 - Theft System Light Keeps Coming On
Jul 21, 2016
I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu LS. Occasionally, my theft system light will come on when I start my car. I usually have to wait 10 minutes until it deactivates. I don't understand why it does this!
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2004 chevy malibu classic... My blinkers make weird sounds and does not work half the time unless i hit the hazard lights. problem two theft system light comes on and stays on. problem three shut off car to re-start i think i can i think i can then start no problem after words. fourth problem the seat belt buzzer wont stop have to play with key in ignition.
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We have a 2002 Malibu with 216,000 miles. Car in excellent condition and always garage kept. We have used the same mechanic for many years until this year when he closed his shop. We do plan to replace the car next year, but it's just not necessary to do so just yet.
A couple of month ago someone rear ended me and the body shop replaced the trunk weather stripping, rear bumper, light assemblies, repainted the trunk/bumper/rear side panels.
Several weeks ago, while hubby was pulling the car out of the garage I noticed every time the brake is pressed the backup lights come on too. I then checked turn signals, all other lights, etc. Everything else appears normal except this oddity.
I took it back to the body shop and told them what was happening and said it had to be something done during the repair work. He checked and said everything was hooked up correctly and I needed to take it to a mechanic because it wasn't anything they did.
I have researched and researched and found several other people with this problem. One answer was that the new light assembly was after market and the "pins" were not compatible with the original wiring harness. Another was that the wiring harness coming from the trunk was somehow damaged.
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2003 Chevy Malibu 3.1 temperature gauge stopped working last night, this morning having trouble starting, no check engine light fans do turn on have heat, replaced the coolant temperature sensor but gauge still not working?
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
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When you start the car the theft system light comes on and then the car stalls. This has been a continuous problem for about two years. I can't find any pattern to when it does and does not start. Sometimes it will start again the next try, sometimes 30 minutes, sometimes I have it towed to the pontiac dealer after a week of not starting. Recently I have had the cluster sent out twice to check for problems, a new lock cylinder, and the bmc replaced. (about $1,150 total) This was done by a certified pontiac garage and the problem is still not fixed so I dropped it off again last night. Any suggestions? Also is there a point where I should get reimbursed for having parts replaced that were not broken? I have to believe that if the problem is still happening then there was nothing wrong with the lock cylinder or the bcm.
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On my new/used 2008 Escape XLT 2.3L 2WD. It flashes every two seconds, like the manual says. Lower left corner of instrument cluster.
But I don't recall the warning light flashing when I test drove it. But I did push the buttons on the keyfob and various places on the dash/instrument cluster to see what they did...
Is the anti-theft system an on/off affair? If so, how do I turn it off?
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This has happened five times within the past couple of months. I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT. In all cases, I was accelerating while going uphill. I am in Chicago so by uphill, think expressway ramp. The Charging System Light and warning bell come on for about a second and then shuts off. When I get home, I check the battery. In all cases, it is fully charged. The battery is six months old. What could be causing this?
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So my Malibu overheated for the first time, and note it just won't start up..
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Long story: I have a 2005 Chevy Malibu base. About more than a month ago I was driving home from work my car stalled about 3 times. I was able to finally get home I checked the oil and to my shock there was none. I quickly put some in and my car started just fine didn't stall again. I drove it the next day nothing. Then the day after that I drove it to Walmart on the way back it stalled like 7 times and after that last time it wouldn't turn on. I got it towed to a shop where my car remained for over a month. The crank position sensor was replaced, the battery, and the ignition switch. I was told it was fixed, picked it up drove it to a town 30 minutes away it was fine, then drove it back it started stalling every 5 minutes.
Managed to take it back to the shop, they couldn't figure out why it was shutting off so they got a second opinion at a Chevy dealership nearby and they replaced the ignition control module. I picked up my car drove it around for awhile and the check engine light came on I was near pepboys they checked the code which said I needed to get the catalytic converter check/replaced. So I drove my car home. Next day drove it all day it stayed on, thought my problem was solved. Then that evening turned it on and within a few minutes the engine shut off and now it won't start at all. The mechanics that I took it to obviously don't know what the issue is nor do the mechanics at Chevy. It is not the fuel pump that's one things that can be crossed out. Or is my car done and should be junked?
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i have a 2005 chevy malibu classic. a few months ago it started sputtering when we would try to crank it and would take several tries before it would run, then it stopped. So far we have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, idle air control valve and crankshaft sensor, and it still wont stay running when you try to give it the gas, it dies....
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I have a 2011 Chevy Malibu, with a little over 100k miles on it. A couple weeks ago it started acting a little funny when I would shift into reverse after starting it after sitting for a while. I thought it might have been due to temperature as it didn't do it after the car had warmed up or when it was warmer out.
Yesterday it started acting up really bad, will not shift out of first gear, and will not shift into reverse, and the check engine light came on. I was able to get it up to O'Reilly's to get the codes. It came back with 2 separate codes.
P0700 - Transmission Control Module (TCM) Requested MIL IlluminationP0776 - Clutch Pressure Control (PC) Solenoid - Stuck Off
The guy there seemed to think that the second code was probably caused by the first one, and most likely the TCM needs replaced. It makes sense to me, but before I head down this path I want to get some input, as it is a little over $300 for the part.
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Car Stats: 2005 Chevy Malibu, Automatic
Just recently while driving my car at a normal speed...(Like 55mph wanted to speed up gradually to 60mph) ..I will push the accelerator and my car wont go any faster. It will act like it is switching to passing gear and then the engine will rev up, the car will lurch forward and then it will finally take off. The RPM's also will increase and then suddenly drop back down to normal.
Also I think this is related to the problem. .... but... when I put the car in the low gear to where I can manually shift it to first second and third. It used to automatically be in the 1st gear... but now it will show up in the third gear and you cannot shift into any other gear.
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I have a 2008 Chevy Malibu LTZ and last week I noticed a revving noise like a fan or something whenever I accelerated from a stop and turned left. Continues throughout the turn and stops when going straight. Doesn't happen on a right turn. Also happens on a windy road when turning left more sharply than just a gradual turn.
Also just noticed this in stop and go traffic. When accelerating slightly and letting off there will be a short grinding/clicking noise that lasts 2-3 seconds or sometimes until I hit the accelerator again.
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I have an 05 escape xls 4cyl that has started acting up in the past 2 weeks. The vehicle has 52k on the clock and has no other issues but what im posting about.
Heres the problem: Vehicle starts fine every time you turn the key. It does not stall or idle rough when engaging the trans mission so I've concluded it has nothing to do with the torque converter. Once the car is running the vehicle will shut off randomly with the THEFT light coming on. I played with it for about 2 hours and have found that it will do this idling in Park, while in Reverse, and while in drive. The vehicle also will shut off while I am going down the road and every time it does the THEFT light is coming on as the problem starts. It does appear that it only happens when the accelerator is not depressed and will sometimes stay running if you hit the Gas Pedal as soon as it starts to happen.
I have tried using another key figuring maybe a transponder is bad...No dice does the exact same thing. I have also noted that i do hear single quiet (tock) when the vehicle shuts off coming from the drivers side lower engine compartment.
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Just replaced the lower radiator hose. Added back in the coolant, it bubbled out air as it filled the radiator. Now when I start it , the engine low coolant light comes on. There is plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
After a couple of minuets, the car warms to half way from cold to red line ( normal temp) then the car runs really crappy, misfiring and then stalling!!
Is their a bleed port on this engine or something that needs doing after the coolant loop has been disturbed?
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I have a 97 Chevy Malibu V6 3.1L with 92k miles on it, a couple weeks ago i started getting a misfire issue. The car would start to misfire when under heavy load such as accelerating up a hill. The local auto parts store diagnosed it with code P0302(cylinder #2 misfire). I started by replacing all of my spark plugs(ACDelco Platnum) and wires. This seemed to fix the issue for a day or so, after that the misfire worsened. I would misfire at random times and when under heavy loads. This caused my transmission to keep shifting up and down followed by the all to familiar hot/melted plastic smell of overheated transmission fluid. This continued on for a few days as it got worse.
The car than started to misfire heavily all the time. I took the car to another auto store and it pulled up codes for Random/multiple misfire. I then took my car to a mechanic for a full diagnostic, their computer said their was a misfire on cylinder #1, as-well as a bad spark plug wire on #1( He found this by getting shocked while wiggling the wires on the coil pack) and told me to replace the bad wire. I replaced all wires again and the problem remained. i took it back up for re-diagnosis and they then said it was a bad coil pack. I replaced the coil packs and the problem still remains.
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I have a 2004 Malibu Maxx hatchback. It has been a solid car since we rolled it out of the showroom. Recently, I noticed when I raise the adjustable driver's seat after my petite wife has driven the car, the seat tilts to the right. After a survey of the power seat mechanics I found a broken front rail. It appears as if the end of the rail where it connects to the hinge is being peeled back as if I were removing the wraper of a crayon. I have only found one other post on the internet. Is this is a common problem?
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About 4 yrs ago, my Son called me and said battery was dead in 2006 Chevy Malibu. and that the weird thing was CD player was spinning with the car shut off. Jumped battery but had to take out radio fuse because when car was shut off, radio would still run! Took it to the dealer and they wanted 500.00 dollars to fix the thing!!! No way I am paying that. Long story short put fuse back in and Radio plays for 30 seconds then shows "LOCKED" Why oh why is my Malibu radio draining my battery and running when car is off? I haven't had a radio for four years because of this "electrical problem" and NO WAY can I afford 500.00! Someone also said check the Ignition Switch or it could be the RAP (Retained Accessory Power)?
Here is what I tried this morning..When trying to unlock the radio, I put the fuse back in for the Radio, turned ignition on and heard the CD player spin with nothing in it and then LOCKED came on. Tried to unlock it and nothing when pushing all buttons. Shut ignition off again, took fuse out and put in again and heard CD player spin again. My guess is Radio itself has a short or something? What to do? I don't know if it's a short, the radio itself or the Retained Accessory Power...
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I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu with around 190000 miles on it. Recently, first thing in the morning then I start driving, that car will not shift into 2nd gear for a bit. The engine will rev up the 2000 RPM and stay there. After a while it will finally shift. The fact that the engine stays revved that high for that long makes me nervous.
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I had an '83 Chevy Malibu Classic that slowly lost power until it was nearly undrivable. I rebuilt or replaced every fuel or spark related item I could think of. I finally had the catalytic converter and O-2 sensor replaced. It ran better, then the problem returned about 8,000 miles later. Disconnecting briefly the exhaust did not work. This suggested that I was sold a new converter for nothing, but the mechanic must have done something to get it to run better. The question is: what was the problem and what did the mechanic do to improve it? (hint: I had indications of coolant contamination in the valve covers, any connection?)
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