Last winter, my car sporadically stopped while I was driving slowly or while I was standing still. I usually turned the engine off and restarted it right away without a problem. It happened a few times and then it stopped. This winter, it began again - frequently. I realize now that it only happens during the cold months.
View 10 RepliesSo about 3 weeks ago, I was driving down the road at about 55 mph, on cruise control, when my car just started slowing down. I looked to see all of my dashboards lights on and I realized my car was not running. I shifted into neutral and the car started right up again, but when I pushed on the gas it just kind of stuttered and shuttered before dying again. When I came to a stop, again the car started right up, but repeated the shuttering and hesitating when I pushed on the gas and tried to get going again.
So, I repeated, but this time i just pushed very gently on the gas, getting up to between 5-10 mph before the car died again. At this point, it just stopped running completely. The engine would turn over, but would not keep running. When I got it into the shop, the mechanic said they put a fuel pressure gauge on there and the readings indicated that there was plenty of pressure, no problems the fuel pump or lines.
After further research, the mechanic said he thought it was an electrical problem, that it could be the crankshaft sensor or the ignition switch module, but he just did not really know for sure. I had him replace the crankshaft sensor, since it was the cheaper part, and it didn't fix the problem. So now I am just kind of stuck on what to do here.
I have a 99 Chevy Lumina. The car periodically flashes the low coolant light. I check it and its fine. I don't know if its related to my recent problem. A couple of days ago, my car wouldn't start. All the lights and stuff come on, but there is no clicking or even trying to start. I kept trying. It wouldn't work. I left it alone to make some phone calls. I messed with it again after a little while and it started. It has been running until today. It started, I got my son to daycare. Then when I tried to start the car to leave, it did the same thing again. I let it sit for a couple of minutes and it started again.
View 13 RepliesI had to drive through some standing salt water and his radio stopped working right after. The GPS is working fine but the radio won't pick up a local or satellite signal. Do you think the problem is related to driving through the water or just coincidence?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 chevy lumina 3.1 with only 317,000 mi. and running strong. I had put new plugs,and wires about 6 weeks ago. The other day it started misfiring and I could smell the gasoline. I checked the tail pipe and it showed black smoke. In addition I put a piece of paper on the tail pipe and I could feel the misfiring with a consistent rhythm. I notice that it is running flooded(like if a fuel injector is not working correctly.) I cleaned the throttle body, checked all the coils and the spark plugs and they are good. It does not show any check engine light on. What could it be?
View 6 RepliesWas called today to look at a car that wont start its a 92 Chevy lumina euro with the 3.1 v6 automatic 4 door. The car has a new crank sensor recently installed ran well for a while and now has no injector pulse. Checked for spark its good. sprayed starting fluid in the intake and it fired for a second acted like it wanted to run and then died. Checked for fuel at Schroeder valve it has fuel there I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but it sprayed pretty good. I'm not real good with electrical but thought maybe the ICM under the coil packs could be bad I have one off a running engine on my shelf but wanted to see what other people had to say first.
View 4 RepliesA week ago, driving home, the tech started to drop quickly to zero then recover, like the ignition was turned off and then back on. I was able to make it home. The car was due a tune up. I replaced the crank position sensor (OEM), replaced sparkplugs (Autolite Iridium), air filter, fuel filter, no luck. I ohmed the coil packs, secondary resistance showed good, replaced the ignition control module (aftermarket). After this, engine would stall after it was at temp, could restart, once put in gear it would stall, but I could go in reverse and drive home backwards.
Reinstalled original OEM ignition control module. Towed to GM Dealership, mechanic said fuel pump was bad, ignition wires needed replaced, one injector ohmed bad. I took car home, replaced fuel pump (OEM), ignition wires (OEM), no luck. Removed plenum, found pcv valve clogged, and hose kinked, replaced both, ohmed all 6 injectors, 5 injectors read 12.3 ohms, 1 injector was 11.6. Replaced all 6 injectors, (Napa), plenum gasket, still same problem.
GM dealership said computer said no data, they though perhaps ignition control module was bad, but I don't think so. I hooked up my Actron shorting plug, reads code 12 which means no faults, no other codes. I noticed EGR valve has a lot of carbon in the hole, thought about changing it, but I'm really not sure where to go now. The car is a 1994 Chevy Lumina with 230,000 miles, spent about $500 the last week doing brakes, and trying to fix this engine. Where to go from here.
This car started to stall sputter. I replaced the ignition module and it worked for while then nothing at all but still cranks. I checked all of the fuses and every thing was working. What I have found and i think this was the whole problem. The wiring harness that goes from the ignition module to the crank sensor, the wires were twisted and frayed and most likely grounding out on the frame and making the computer to shut down. So far after replacing the wires it started right up. Have not had a chance to take it for a test run to re learn the computer because my brake line busted.
View 1 RepliesMy brother's 1995 chevy lumina 3.1 engine has been dying while braking for a stop and while reversing. Has replaced fuel filter, map sensor, throttle sensor, o2 sensors and still no change. He says he doesn't believe a tune-up is the cause either.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1990 chevy lumina 2.5 L 4 cyl. 100,000 miles....The car recently started chugging while in drive and will not accelerate correctly, when I do get it to 55 mph there's still chugging, Ive replaced the fuel filter, spark plug and wires, fuel system clean, new battery, there is a inch crack in the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine, not sure if that would make me lose power to accelerate, the car idles fine, but chugs when put in drive, and will occasionally die when put in reverse....
View 3 Replies1995 Chevy Lumina 3.1L Sedan with ~182K mi
Over the past 6 months, I have noticed fuel odor just about any time I turn off the vehicle, and I am also experiencing progressively higher levels of fuel tank pressure each time I remove the fuel cap. The fuel tank pressure seems to be greater the lower the level of fuel in the tank whenever I remove the cap. 6 months ago (~Sept) it was only a slight "hissing" periodically when removing the cap to fuel up, but now it occurs at every fill up and seems to have enough pressure to push the cap entirely off had I not been careful to slowly loosen the cap to relieve the pressure.
The entire fuel pump and sending unit assembly in addition to the tank and filter were all replaced about 4 years ago in May 2010 or about 28K mi ago. The issue has just come up progressively over the last 6 months.
Today, I inspected the evap. emission components and lines from the tank to the canister to the purge solenoid mounted on the rear of the engine. All lines are connected and seem to be in operable condition. The line from the canister to the purge valve mounted on the engine is completely free with no obstructions. I blew out the line with compressed air and absolutely no exiting particulates were observed. The lines on the bottom of the canister did not show any signs of wet fuel and there were no carbon particles present in the lines from what I could tell from disconnecting and inspecting. The vapor line from the tank to the carbon canister is not kinked or pinched in any manner.
I believe there is a fuel vapor check valve that resides inside the tank connected to the fuel pump assembly/sending unit. This was all replaced as a single unit as mentioned above. I am thinking this check valve may not be functioning properly and not allowing the vapor to escape into the carbon canister. I tried to apply slight pressure and vacuum on the vapor line connected to the check valve on the tank but no air was able to move in or out even with the gas cap off. However, I do have a full tank of gas right now, so I imagine the check valve will be closed.
The check engine light is not on but since this is an OBDI vehicle I am not sure there are any evap. emission codes anyway.
How can I test the gas tank vapor check valve? How can I test the vapor purge solenoid located on the rear of the engine? What malfunctioning component could be causing the excessive fuel tank pressure.
Our 1997 Grand Caravan with 170K loses more air conditioning every year. So, I assume I have a slow leak. Is recharging something I can do myself with the new type cans offered by auto parts stores? Also, I think the radiator fan no longer comes on, I never hear it and the engine temp will go up when driving slowly around town.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 Toyota Hilux (unleaded, not diesel) and I'm looking for input as she keeps breaking down but no one is able to figure out the problem. While in gear and driving, the gas stops engaging and the speed slowly drops. The car stutters while slowing down but then if I switch gears or rev the engine it will stop. After some time this continues to happen more frequently (at all speeds) until the car eventually stops and dies. Try to restart and the engine will turn over but not start. After sitting for a night or so, though, she starts up and runs just fine. Thus no mechanics have been able to solve the issue!
Could be a fuel problem as the exhaust pipe makes a banging sound when this happens, but it could also be electrical.
My Volvo is having some ac issues and I am trying to figure out what is happening. The compressor works sporadically while driving. When it is on it blows cold, but then all of a sudden it shuts off. I had a friend check the refrigerant levels he said they were fine. He said the high side pressure is at 350, which is high.
View 10 RepliesWhat is the cause of my 2007 Ford Taurus that sporadically shuts off while driving? This problem started to occur about a year ago when I was stopped at a light. Then it would start to shut off while driving around town. The problem now occurs when traveling 70 mph on a highway which is dangerous. I typically see the theft light, airbag light, etc. come on and the wheel locks up. IF I quickly turn off my radio and air or heat (not set on full blast) then the car typically returns to normal driving.
If I do not turn off these items quickly then the car completely dies and I have to restart the car - so far the car has always restarted. This problem is quite sporadic - can be morning, night, been driving for 10 minutes or 40 minutes. It can happen one time and then not again for many months or it can happen 5 times in one day. I have taken it to 3 auto-mechanics (this last one being the Ford dealer). They have checked the keys, key fobs, alternator, never throwing a computer code, etc. I have driven it to the mechanic as soon after it happens and no computer code thrown. This is getting quite dangerous and about ready to sell the car.
My wife and I have a 2004 F-150 5.4 L SCrew 2WD which is stuttering sporadically when we drive it. It will run fine and then suddenly when you increase pressure on the peddle, it will occasionally (one or twice per 30 min or more trip) hesitate. At first I was thinking it was a fuel problem, and now I am inclined to think it is a transmission problem. It causes jerking (feeling of loss of power) and then quickly goes away.
No codes show up in the computer and no lights come on in the dash. Miraculously when service drives it at the local dealer, they state that they don't find anything. We also feel the truck shifts hard since the last PCM update (the dealer states that it has the most recent PCM update). The condition has worsened and we are nearing our original MFW expiration at 36,000. We did purchase the prem extended warranty however. We recently talked the service manager into putting the in-flight computer in it, and I need to take it back today or tomorrow to have it removed.
I have a 2000 Lexus RX300 with 210,000 miles on it. We recently started to have some transmission issues. It sporadically drops into 1st gear while driving. We had the transmission fluid changed, and it did work for a short time, but it has recently started again. Is my transmission going to completely fail or is this something that is serviceable? We are trying to decide whether it's worth it to keep the car and fix it and drive it for another 100,000 miles or sell it. It looks great and drives great, otherwise.
View 3 RepliesI am working on my son's 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4/6L truck. He was driving it when the gauges and the tach stopped working. I replaced the cluster and it still blows the fuses. The five amp fuse that is specifically for the cluster doesn't blow. It is a twenty five amp fuse that also power the overdrive circuit, etc.
After replacing the gauge cluster I installed a new fuse and the overdrive button on the shifter started smoking. Where I could get a wiring diagram of this circuit so I can see how it is wired.
My security light came on while I was driving to work today. It stayed on for about 5 minutes then went off. It happened 2 days ago as well. I bypassed the VATS around 3 years ago, so with this happening I'm concerned about getting stranded somewhere...
View 1 RepliesI have a manual transmission, 2003 Chevy Cavalier with 197,000 miles. Car has been great up until 6 months ago. My husband is great with keeping up with oil changes/ routine car maintenance. The reason for my post is, I am having two main problems with my car
1.) Significant drops in RPMs while stopped.
2.) lurching while on the accelerator.
The significant drops in RPMs occur while at a complete stop and do not occur at every stop, it seems completely random. This first started roughly 5-6 months ago, my husband replaced the spark plugs and it was running fine until last week. Same symptoms- while at a stop it fluctuates between an idle of 1000rpms down to almost 0 (car has never died, but sounds like it comes close). The second set of symptoms have been fairly consistent the past 2-3 months. At first I thought I had some bad fuel so I applied fuel treatment- seemed to solve the problem until I filled up again. Same problem- again treated with fuel treatment, and issue resolved.
The same tank of fuel got down to 1/4 tank, and symptoms started a third time. Again- fuel treatment. The car is now down to 1/2 a tank and the lurching has started once again. There is no way I continue to get this unlucky with bad fuel. The car lurches forward more when I maintain a higher speed (50-60mph) but on occassion can occur while going much slower. It typically jerks for 5ish miles, it doesnt occur my entire drive to/from work (22miles). My check engine light is on, but has been for years. This is my daily driver, I depend on this car and am nervous if I dont find out what is wrong- ill end up stranded.
my problem is this: my lower control arm bushing, front but (rear bushing) unfastens alright but i cannot get the bolt out no matter what i do. it just keeps spinning and will not come out the control arm has snapped itself so needs to be replaced. now is there a secret way (lol) to get this out iam about to become on nerve pills because of this lol. it just keeps turning on me and will not come out the other nut/bolt came out without any problems.
and from the manufactures book the actual gm book 375.00 paid for this darn book
anyway it says that these bolts have got to be placed back in from the inside (both of them) meaning they aren't supposed to be placed back one one way the the other way. a guy has told me its okay to be doing it the way where i place it back in to wiggle it back and forth to get it back in but the gm manual says to put both bolts back in the exact same way from inside the control arm out and the both nuts to be facing outside. and even when i took them both off the one was bolt end from the outside in and the other from the inside out? i have a 1997 3.1 front wheel drive. and i have only 1 lower control arm on each side