Chevy - Impala :: Creaky Door Hinge Sound From Rear End Of Car
Nov 28, 2013
2007 Chevy Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel 6 cyl engineauto trans50,500 miles
Note: All new struts and tires one year ago (approx 7,000 miles ago) after hitting raised pavement road hazard on interstate at 70 mph and bottoming out car. Entire suspension system was thoroughly examined for damage at the time and only struts, tires and one front wheel bearing needed repair/replacement. Also, just passed safety and emissions inspection about six weeks ago prior to this new creaking sound appearing.
PROBLEM: Since weather turned cold about two weeks ago, an intermittent "creaky door hinge" sound in the car rear end when driving over rough spots and to a lesser extent sometimes when turning. No noticeable change in how the car handles, rides, steers, brakes, etc. Just the creaky door hinge sound from somewhere in the rear end. No recent hitting of pot holes or other reason I can think of for why this has started other than the advent of cold weather. Pushing down hard on the trunk and trunk corners does not reproduce the sound, although I can't really push down all that hard so that is no proof one way or the other.
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Our 2010 base model GX 460 was 'born' in November 2009 and purchased new in February 2010, but we never used the 120 VAC power outlet at the back of the cargo compartment by the rear door hinge. I was cleaning and swapping 'summer' floor mats for 'winter' mats and decided to see if the outlet works. The appended pictures prove it does produce 120 VAC .... actually, almost 124 VAC, but I have no way to test if it can supply 100 Watts, much less the waveform shape. Perhaps it could light a 100 Watt incandescent bulb, but nothing sensitive to supply line glitches!
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Due to the rain this weekend I decided to clean out my interior and do some maintenance. Lately my driver-side door has been making a squeaking sound. As such, I decided to lube up all the doors just in case. Upon inspecting all the doors/hinges I found that both the driver-side rear door and passenger-side rear door hinge bolts are rusted real bad. These are the bolts that connect the hinge to the door rather than the hinge to the door frame.
I inspected the door for any sign of water intrusion, but could not see anything out of ordinary. Also, nothing else was rusted or appeared to be water damaged. I inspected all the other hinge bolts around the car for comparison and they were fine. It is strange that both rear passenger doors have this issue. I bought the vehicle used and the Carfax comes back clean with no accidents or damage reported.
The only other time I have seen this is when the door has been worked on, and a socket was used which stripped the protective paint off the bolt. Even then only the rough edges of the bolt rusted, and not the entire thing. While I could foresee one door being worked on, I do find it strange that both would have needed work. However, this assumption does not rule out the possibility.
My only other issue of concern which may play into this is the surprising amount of sand I find on the exterior. As good as one can clean a car there are always some places that will never get fully clean. With that said, while the exterior is clean I have found sand residue in little crevices (weep holes) and corners throughout. I am sure that sand and moisture would play a part in causing rust to accumulate, except that no other parts show any sign of rust. This is certainly bizarre to me. I plan on replacing the bolts, but would like to remedy the problem before hand if possible.
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I have a 2003 Impala which up until this past monday had a tire with a slow leak in it. On monday I had that leak repaired, well the shop said it was repaird. Then driving home last night I got the "low tire pressure light" coming on, and well figured they actually had NOT fixed the leak or I had a new one. I pulled off at a station to refill, but first checked all four tires, all four were exactly the same at 35 PSI, which is where they are suppsed to be. So my question, what could have set off the LTPL if none of the tires were low in pressure or no tire was significantly different from the others presure wise?
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impala with power driver's seat. The seat has three motors which move the seat forward/back, front of the seat up/down, rear of the seat up/down.
The seat will no longer go up/down in the rear of the seat. More importantly, it will no longer go forward or back. The left side jack screw spins and wants to move the seat forward or back but eventually stops when it can no longer go any further because the right side jack screw will not turn at all.
All of the motors are working properly and turning the flexible drive shafts. The drive shafts do not appear to be stripped at the ends. After removing the drive shaft covers and reinstalling the drive shaft, I can see that they are turning when the motors are activated.
I then removed the drive shafts and inserted a square bit into the end where the drive shaft gets inserted into the gearing attached to the jack screw. The bit just spins and spins and doesn’t turn the jack screw.
I cannot removed the seat because it is in a position where the rear bolts are covered by the seat. I have tried to remove the four bolts under the seat that attach the seat to the frame. I am unable to break these bolts free (they appear to be welded or loc-tited down).
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When I press on gas petal the car hesitates and seems like it is having trouble accelerating. It also does this when I accelerate up a hill actually it is worse. The mechanic changed by spark plugs and coil pack and it is still doing it. What could be the problem.
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Ok so I recently started noticing my car was overheating and the sensor would go off saying coolant temp hot. So I started by adding coolant that didn't work. I than replaced the thermostat didn't change. I saw the water pump was leaking and changed that but before I did I was driving it home one night and the engine stopped and I barely had control of the car. Now the water pump is new and I don't know what the problem is. I think it's the head gasket ???
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I have a 2013 4 Door Golf MK6 with the following:
DG springs
225 X45 X17"
Hotchkis RSB ( set on the softest setting which is 90% stiffer over the OEM one)
Neuspeed Endlinks
About two weeks ago I started hearing some creaking noises coming from the rear of my car. I thought, I need to put some grease to the RSB bushings, but this didn't work. After a close inspection I notice that the sway bar was rubbing.
The RSB was installed about 3 1/2 months ago and didn't have any issues. What could be causing the problem? I am suspecting the endlinks are going to be culprit. the car is used as a daily driver. what endlinks would you recommend to get?
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Why does my 2000 chevy impala whistle when i accelerate? it also seems to shift hard.
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I have this weird noise that comes from the engine compartment and you only hear it when the A/C compressor is running and the gears are engaged while braking. It sounds like a low whirr that goes on for a few seconds. I noticed that if I shift into neutral and engage the brakes while the A/C is running the sound does not come on, also if I have noticed that there is no noise if the A/C is OFF. Could that be the compressor? the idler pulley? the belt tensioner??
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Replacing the top door hinge on a mk4 r32 if so what size spline is it?? also has to remove the hinge pin?? was this a easy enough job if so whats the procedure.
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So I have a 2003 Chevy Impala Base 3.4L V6 and for some odd reason when I turn down the brightness for my dash the lights on the radio buttons and screen becomes brighter and when I brighten the dash the lights on the stock radio lights go out. I started to notice this after the BCM was replaced.
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my mom's car is a 2008 chevy impala police car. This police car has an extra oil cooler unit. the rubber hose is leaking oil right at the point where the rubber is crimped to the metal end connection nut. since this is a police car the rubber hose is very expensive at the dealer (over $300 for the part only). Is there a cheap way to seal this leak with some form of heat resistant tape or glue compound ? or, can I cut the existing rubber hose and remove the leaking end & replace with a 3rd party rubber hose with the correct end and then join the two rubber hoses at the cut portion together with some creative scheme like a metal tube insert with metal tie wrap clamps? Any creative solution that i can deploy to stop this oil leak.
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We, just today I went to fill up the 2006 prius and noticed the fuel door hinge broke. The only thing keeping the door on is the plastic fuel cap cable.
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Randomly my driver side door hinge squeaks....
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I need to do the doors on my work van..Is there a hinge pin kit that works?
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Replacing the hinge pin and bushings on the barn door hinges? My drivers side upper hinge pin has completely sheared in two. I took it to the body shop today for replacement and they could not fix it. I think it was more labor intensive than they had imagined.
Anyway, they say I have to replace both the door side and the truck side hinge which are both welded on despite the bolts on the truck side. I found a site that retrofits the front door hinges and they have a special tool to press the old hinge pin out. Is this possible to press out the hinge, or should I try to drill them out?
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The thread started from a guy with a 2007 LS where his door hinges were becoming basically awful to the point where it was very difficult to shut the doors. My response follows...
So it's almost been two years since the last post in regards to this but I thought I would share a similar experience I'm going through with my 2007 GS 350. 2 months ago I broke down and bought a set of hinges for the right rear door because it got to the point that you physically had to walk with the door to close it ($400 parts, labor, paint). I am now having a similar experience with the driver door and it's getting worse every month.
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I noticed earlier this afternoon that when I opened my front passenger door to reach in and get my phone out, the hinge creaked/squeaked. Everytime I would open/close the door it would make the sound. This door has only been opened about 5 times since I bought the car on April 30th. I have never heard tell of this on a new car, so it is disappointing. Had I had a passenger in the car and they heard that, well it would have been a little embarrassing on a brand new car. It sounded like a 30 year old car that had never had its door hinges oiled. It may just need some grease or something, but I would think this should have been lubed properly during assembly.
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Have had a persistent squeak in my passenger front door since buying it used 9 months sgo. Tried WD40, even have had dealer install 2 new hinges.. but still have the loud squeak (starts about 1/2 way opening the door).
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My fuel door is starting to crack at the connection to the hinge? It looks like from the assembly drawing that I'll have to remove the wheel and the wheel well liner to get to it but the drawing is not super clear.
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