Chevy - G10 :: Van Started To Cough And Die When Going Up A Hill
Nov 23, 2015
I have a 1979 chevy g10 sportvan with a 305 engine. Some time ago the van started to cough and die when going up a hill. It would not start at all while on the slope but if I rolled it back to a level surface it would start right up. I found that if i filled the gas tank up, the problem would go away. I figured that i had a problem with the sending unit, maybe the tube that runs toward the bottom of the tank was corroded in some way so that it would only suck gas when the tank was full to a certain point. So I kept the tank at least half full with no problems. Then the problem returned when the tank was 3/4 of the way full. I figured that the sending unit was getting worse. I removed the gas tank and removed the sending unit which looked fine. I was disappointed.
I began to drive my farm truck around and the van sat for awhile- maybe 6 months. My farm truck finally died, so back to trying to get the van running.I put a new sending unit in since i had the tank out anyway, put about 5 gallons of gas in it and headed for the nearest hill. Seemed to work just fine. Problem solved, right? After about 100 miles of driving the problem is back again. I figured o.k. the carb float must be getting stuck, so i have removed the carb. I found that the fuel filter was crushed/ installed improperly, it was just kind of smashed and twisted looking when i took it out of its housing. Yes i am the one who did that and yes i am an idiot. I cannot exactly remember if the problem existed before i changed the filter last time, but i suspect that it did. I have the carb apart right now, it certainly needs a cleaning, but the float did not seem to be hung up at all. The van has a mechanical fuel pump. I imagine if its not pumping enough pressure it could cause it to stall or bog on a hill, but it won't start at all on a slope after it dies. It starts immediately on the flat.
I guess my questions are these: Could the filter problem have caused the stalling problem? What else in the fuel system could be failing due to gravity? Should I be looking elsewhere for the problem?
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My 2003 Nissan Sentra was doing fine a few days ago until I started up a very steep hill and went into 1st gear. There was a burning smell for about 2 blocks so I shifted to 2nd gear. The smell went away. When I was in 1st gear it did not sound or feel like I was trying to go too fast for the gear. I just smelled the burning. Same hill in 2nd, no smell. How much should I worry?
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99.5 7.3. 201,450 miles, Just developed a new noise. Was on interstate, in cruise, 65 mph, started while pulling a hill. Kicked it out of cruise and noise went away. I have found it will repeat just pulling a hill at highway speed.
Now for the noise....it almost sounds like lightly opening the secondaries on a gasser 4 barrel. I don't see anything unusual under the hood.
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I was driving up a hill an it started to loose power. i got up to the top of the highway an stopped an it just shut down. got towed home i thought it could of been the alternator but dose not seem to be. took the belt off to spin the motor an its not spinning. drained the oil an there is no metal in it to see if the motor was done. i try to start it an it just dose a click click an that's it. Is the motor done or is it a transmission problem?
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Today I visited a buddy who lives on a pretty steep hill. I always set my E-brake while in Neutral to make sure it's holding the truck before sliding it into park. So I got out and unloaded a few things and was in his garage. I heard a skidding sound outside, I was about 40 feet away from it when I looked out my truck was skidding down the hill!
I ran out and to the drivers door, opened it and pressed on the brakes with left hand right when it hit the bottom of the hill and it barely stopped from hitting the blue car parked on bottom of the hill. Next time if I stop on this hill I'll make sure it''s nose up hill and make sure I have 4X4 engaged to have all wheels locked up. I know this probably happened because the lack of weight on the rear wheels but this was a pretty crazy scare with only 7800 miles on her!
You can see the skid marks from my rear wheels, my friend lives in the middle of the block.
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Last week my truck started to stall a little bit. As I drove it a little longer, it stalled all the way out. It started back up fine but when I gave it some gas, it cut off. This happened several times. I popped the hood and noticed the throttle body was a little loose. Thinking air may have gotten into the system,I tightened it back up. I started it up,put it in gear and it seemed to drive fine and it started stalling again.
While I was on the interstate, it would cut off, cut back on,cut off and then cut back on. Finally it completely stalled out. I had to have it towed to my house. I hooked my code scanner up to it and it through code 44 (O2 sensor) and code 54 (Fuel pump relay or something like that). What could be causing my truck to run this way.
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This car started to stall sputter. I replaced the ignition module and it worked for while then nothing at all but still cranks. I checked all of the fuses and every thing was working. What I have found and i think this was the whole problem. The wiring harness that goes from the ignition module to the crank sensor, the wires were twisted and frayed and most likely grounding out on the frame and making the computer to shut down. So far after replacing the wires it started right up. Have not had a chance to take it for a test run to re learn the computer because my brake line busted.
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I have a 2001 F350 with a 7.3 diesel and automatic trans. I purchased it about 100,000 miles ago. It is all stock as far as I know. The mileage on it was about 14-15 on the road and I decided to put a chip in it. I was somewhat leary of putting too much power to this old of a rig. I put a TS Performance chip in it. It seems to have more power. I am towing a 30 ft. Gulfstream Seahawk I think around 10,000 lbs. When I started up a hill it made a different noise like a screeching noise when I pushed it. When I back off a bit the noise goes away. When I put it back to stock setting the noise is not there just the normal downshift and increased RPM. Not sure how to describe the noise but sounds like a metal bearing type noise. I get the same rush of air or what ever that sound is when it changes back to a higher gear. Is this sound normal or what might it be. It sounds normal when not pressing it.
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I was at the bank today and when I put it in reverse to back out, the car jolted and then it rolled forward slightly while at the same time sounding like there was grinding. I immediately put it back into park and the noise stopped. Then I tried to reverse again and it started making a clicking and whining noise and wouldn't back up. It sounded like it went into gear but it won't move. I was able to get it pushed out and the drive still worked. So I was going down the road and got up to speed and the shifting was significantly delayed.
It's an automatic by the way. So I tried to take it on the highway and it won't shift out of 2nd gear or 3rd. I know for a fact that overdrive isn't working so i'm doing 50mph down the road and hitting 2500 RPM. I don't know what the deal is but for about 8 months there has been a rumbling vibration when it tries to go into overdrive and when I accelerate quickly I force it to downshift and the rumbling goes away but it still shifted into overdrive when it got passed the rumbling and vibration. It's a 1997 C1500 2WD 5.7L Silverado.
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I have a 2000 jetta with a 12v and it will cough and give a shake. Its not throwing a misfire code. The only thing I can think of is it being the intake shift rod.
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My 7.3 will cough randomly on the interstate not towing or anything. It has a new turbo and filters...
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About 2 weeks ago it would turn over and cough and then just spin. After a few minutes it would crank. Last week it didn't do it at all, this morning when I am loaded and headed to Atlanta for work it wouldn't crank at all. I didn't have any starting fluid so I tried some cleaner and it would cough and just spin. I'm thinking fuel pressure but I just don't know.
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So, a year ago or so I had the truck die on me, it would start after cranking it a long time and cough/sputter for a few minutes with no power. I thought it seemed like a weak hpop or leaking oring, so I tore it down and put it all back together with a something or other hpop. Now I have a no crank no fuel pump condition, the injectors don't cycle when I turn the key on, I do get relays clicking, but no start, the yellow/blue wire gets the starter to turn over, but no fuel, so couldn't start if it wanted to... I am getting 120 ohms (like 122) on the dlc 6,14 and millivolts, basically nothing between 4 and 14...
I sent the ficm off to get rebuilt and they told me that it was already good (charged me anyway though, ah well...) I wiggled wires around and pulled my ficm plugs apart and pushed the wires in some, didn't seem to move any... What is next? There can't be that many things that cause all three, No Fuel Pump, No Crank and No Injector Buzz, can there?
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Ok, when I'm driving and go up a hill or have to give it light pedal it stutters, almost like a cyl drop. I'm pretty sure its not a cylinder drop. It will continue to do it until I release throttle and mash it down again.
Also, when i turn the key at start up, I get nothing. I have to put it in N then it starts right up. Neutral saftey switch? And would that be related to the above issue? Guy at a shop said he thinks its IAC and said its connected to N switch?
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I have a Prius V that is giving me fits with the Hill Assist. First of all it comes on when I park on a surface that is NOT a hill. I know that depressing the brake pedal too hard can make it come on. But then what do you do to turn it off and start the car moving?
The Hill Assist light comes on, the big P light comes on also and everything freezes. I have to repeatedly turn the car off, press the brakes, apply and release the parking brake, etc. I haven't found out what exactly I need to do to turn off the Hill Assist.
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When I first picked up my golf r I started doing some vagcom mods and one of them was changing the hill hold setting to low rpm as I'm still learning to drive manual and it would work a bit on hills.
As far as I know there is 3 options in the adaptation channel under abs brakes and hill hold
1. Normal
2. Low rpms
3. High rpms
I changed it to low rpms and I have in fact noticed the assist on some slight and bigger hills. Today i changed it back to normal and when on some hills it didn't seem like the car was holding, or maybe hill wasn't big enough.
Is there something special that needs to be done? From what I remember when on a hill and on the brake, after letting go of it, the car would hold for like 2 seconds. Doesn't happen with normal mode.
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I am going on a camping trip this weekend and I thought I'd get some insight to mountain driving. I understand that going down a steep hill, one should stay in the lower gears to slow the car and prevent constant braking and brake fade. However, what is the mechanics behind this? In lower gears, what prevents the car from continuing to gain speed as I am going down the hill. Let's say I am in 1st gear and my car max out at 20 mph. How is it that the car stays at 20mph and what prevents the car from flying down a steep hill? Won't the kinetic energy of the car eventually speed up car past 20mph?
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I have a 2006 RX400h with about 110k miles on it. Recently, I noticed a rattling noise coming from what sounds like underneath the car when I'm going up hill (at or around 15-25 mph).
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My wife said the car started vibrating pretty bad when she used the engine brake going down a hill when the battery was full. Is that normal?
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I was going up this huge hill today and had EV mode on and had 10 miles of EV. I noticed the EV kicked off and I assumed it was because of the hill. I kept the bar out of the power area. The car was warmed up already since EV was in prior to going up the hill
2 questions - Did the EV turn off because if the hill even though I didn't go into the power area? After the hill I went on a perfectly flat road and I could not get the EV to kick back in. I even went into the regen area and it still wouldn't. I toggled EV on off on and still nothing. It finally kicked in about five minutes later.
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I've had this problem a couple times now. I start the car in the garage, take the parking brake off and try to move forward. Car does not move, but inches forward like I still have had the parking brake on. I double check, it's off. And to state the obvious, I do not have my foot on the brake.
I think maybe it's hill assist, though my garage barely has an incline that probably wouldn't trigger hill assist. I try to put it in different gears and attempt to accelerate in reverse, same thing.
So, that leads me to believe, are my brakes stuck? I steadily accelerate and the car finally budges. I hear a loud "POP-TWANG!!" under the car like I just popped the parking brake. The car lurches forward and I drive out of the garage normally.
I don't hear or see any other performance issues after this under normal city driving. This was after the car was not used and was in the garage overnight or longer. I did drive a few hundred miles the day before but not under significant load or stress on the car.
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