2006 Chevy Express 3500 ... Vehicle surges, hesitates, stalls, backfires, and is hard to start after stalling.No codes are thrown, and have had the fuel system checked out without results. 159.000 miles. last mechanic said it was not a spark plug issue. Been an ongoing problem for several months and getting worse all the time.
View 2 RepliesMy 88 "Rosie" has been having problems for months. It hesitates, stalls, and sometimes backfires. This is an intermittent problem, though it is happening more often lately. I took it to local auto shop and their computer showed Rosie was throwing a misfire code as well as a lean code. I took it 3 months ago, and I took it last week, got the same codes. The lean code led me to check the fuel pressure. I did and while it should be healthy 48-55 psi, I got 48 for awhile then 15 PSI! Now I'm thinking fuel delivery. I started with the filter. Sure enough it was dirty. Weeks later, the problem persists. I replaced the fuel regulator (ok, mostly because it was cheaper than the replacing the fuel pump, which I really didn't want to have to do.) Still, no luck, so I finally caved and spent $200 and 12 hrs dropping the tank to replace the fuel pump. Guess, what? Still no dice. I'm still getting the hesitation and the misfiring. I haven't put the fuel pressure tester back on it (been busy) so I don't know if the pressure is still low or if these other things are even related. I thought my logic was infallible. Let's face it, there's a finite number of parts that control fuel pressure. I'm running out of parts to replace. Where did I go wrong? The only thing I can think of that could still do it is perhaps the fuel pump relay? I dunno. Would it work off and on or fail completely? I'd love to get some opinions on this.
View 19 RepliesI've been having an issue with my Elantra GT where the car appears to be shifting poorly. The issue is very intermittent and usually only occurs just after starting to drive for about 4 to 5 minutes. But it never occurs consistently during every time I start driving the car. It is an Auto transmission but it feels as if a poor downshift is being back (car hesitates, then surges forward). From my research the transmission in the GT appears to be fairly reliable.
Background
2013 Elantra GT
KMs: 98500 km (high mileage commuter to work and back)
Note: Installed K&N Typhoon around 95,000 km, issue persisted before and after.
Initially started to feel the issue around 80,000 km. At this point I took it to the dealer and had the transmission flushed. The issue went away until about the 87,000 to 90,000 km mark and then started to return. Went back to the dealer and they said they performed an updated and couldn't replicate the issue during test drives. Currently my car is at 98,500 and this morning when driving to work the issue was particularly severe and the check engine light came on.
03 supercrew 5.4. I've been having problems climbing hills. I'm on a trip and the truck surged fron do then to drive and stopped. Let it sit for 30 mins or so and it was good. Drove another 500 miles ans started again going up some hills. The first time it was 110 out and the 2nd it was 90. I'm pretty sure it's a cop but of course no cel. It does not seem to of over heated either. Can the cops overheat? Do you recommend a diagnostic, will this show up if no cel has show?
View 5 RepliesMy '96 Dakota SLT 6-cylinder pickup backfired and blew a hole in my muffler ... I've had it in three different shops on six occasions since and the thing still hiccups, backfires, stalls ... most of the electrical switches and sensors have been replaced ... right before it back fires, it feels like it is going to stall, then "POW" ... sometimes it continues to run fine for a little while after that ... then it happens again ... When it stalls it feels like it is running out of gas ... it is almost impossible to restart right away, but if I wait a few minutes, the starts right up ...
View 1 RepliesMy 2006 Chevy Express 3500 (cutaway) 6.0L won't start when the outside temperature is below 35 degrees. Warmer than 35, it starts right up. Seems to be a fuel problem, as it fires, but doesn't keep running. I can start it by fooling around with the position of the gas pedal, but usually it takes a few minutes of cranking. My mechanic thought it was low fuel pressure and replaced the fuel pump- a thousand dollars later, it is no different.
View 15 RepliesI have a 2003 Jeep Wrangler (4 cylinder) that seems to be having a fuel problem.... about a month ago, it started lurching, having a hard time starting, it would lose power on drives and once or twice it has stalled on me while I'm driving on the freeway. I've had to restart my car going 60 mph... if I feel it lurching or surging, I have been able to keep the car going by shifting into a lower gear or taking my foot off the gas.
I just took it into the dealership and spent 1300 to get it diagnosed and fixed. I got a new timing belt, and a whole bunch of other stuff and on the way out, it stalled at the first stop light. Although it seems to be running better, it obviously didn't fix the issue. I took it right back and now they are going to have me bring it back on Monday to 'try to figure it out’. Where should I tell them to look?
Oh, and - I had to get a short fixed from the ignition key (I was able to pull the key out while the car was running) and they fixed it. But now, I can't get any reception on my radio...
So this doesn't begin until I put it into a forward gear, but after about 30 sec of smooth running, I will get a sudden momentary loss of power, then a surge, which repeats and intensifies as the van lurches forward until the engine finally stalls. Throwing it into N in the middle doesn't work. Babying the gas had no effect. It happened both at higher(2.5-3K) revs and at lower (.8-1.5k).
After killing the battery starting and restarting it just to keep it moving, I had it jumped, at which point I sat with it in P for 20 min to charge the battery and in all that time, it ran fine. I'd love to hear some possible diagnoses. Don't know if I should have it towed from where it's sitting, or try to drive it to the shop, or if it's something I can repair myself (think 1-star difficulty).
I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 which I bought a month ago from its original owner. It has 140k miles on it. Timming belt and water pump were changed at 90k, car is in very good shape, clean engine.
It has a weird issue.
In the early morning, from my house to work around 7am, I have to drive around 20 mins on freeway , I exit and drive for another 5 mins on local street which is up and downhill, at red light or when I have to turn, the car begins to hesitate like hiccup and stall on me. The car cannot start again immediately, all power is still working, the car is trying its best to turn over but it fails. However after I wait couple mins, I can restart the car. Then, the car will run just fine, absolutely fine the rest of the day.
The weird thing here is, on days I don't have to work, I start to drive it at around 10am when it's warmer and there's sunshine, and not up and downhill, it never hesitates or stalls. Even I try to drive it up a big hill near my house at noon, nothing happens. So I'm not sure if driving up and downhill playing a part in this problem.
It doesn't happen all the time when I have to drive to work in early morning, up and downhill, but more than often. The car drives great on freeway, idle excellent around 500-600 RPM. One more detail, the gas pedal kind of vibrates (very small vibration) around 1600 RPM, and it's annoying. I'm not sure if it is relating to the issue.
Here what I did to the car:
1. Clean throttle body.
2. Clean Mass Airflow Sensor. Didn't work. Then I replaced it with a used OEM one.
3. Put Techron Additive in the gas tank.
4. Replace Air Filter.
None of the above works, but I think somehow it improves a tiny little bit.
MY 2011 Sonata has 84K miles. Last couple of months, I've noticed it engine jerks / hesitates / stalls when going from 40 mph to 60 mph. Once it reaches 60 mph I can go 70mph or higher without any problem. I've made several visits to dealership without any success. First, they diagnosed as bad oxygen sensor and bad spark plugs. The problem did not go away after replacing both. According to them it does not give any error code. Now they're asking to perform fuel cleaning service. I feel they're shooting in the dark. Does it sounds like problem with the automatic transmission i.e problem shifting into higher gear.
View 18 Replies93" chevy, k 1500 305 engine, stalled, then hard to restart lots of black smoke, fuel, no air? Bad mixture? When it starts it backfires, runs rough black smoke, and stalls again. dist. module ck. o.k. cap and rotor good.
View 3 RepliesThis problem showed up this summer, different times under load: on hot days, going uphill, AC on. Also, always happens when the temp gauge is just above halfway. Even after a stall, I am able to limp home, and it improves the longer the car runs after the problem starts. First I replaced the fuel filter which was pretty dirty, the problem didn't improve, so had the shop run codes -- low ignition voltage. They replaced the coil, and that seemed to work for a while. Now, in109 degree heat, it's starting to hesitate again, but the engine light hasn't come on this time. I had to replace the radiator about 4 months back, when it was cooler, and don't know if it's somehow temp related. Also, haven't replaced the timing belt since I bought it with 90K (its has 119K now).
View 3 Repliesmy 88 camry will start and idle fine however whenever you attempt to accelerate the vechicle the car trys to stall and hesitate badly and will not move. i have changed the fuel filter the spark plugs and plug wires i cannot figure it out. also this started out of nowere the car was driving i had been driving for about ten miles stopped at a red light and that is when the car started doing this.
View 9 RepliesA week ago, driving home, the tech started to drop quickly to zero then recover, like the ignition was turned off and then back on. I was able to make it home. The car was due a tune up. I replaced the crank position sensor (OEM), replaced sparkplugs (Autolite Iridium), air filter, fuel filter, no luck. I ohmed the coil packs, secondary resistance showed good, replaced the ignition control module (aftermarket). After this, engine would stall after it was at temp, could restart, once put in gear it would stall, but I could go in reverse and drive home backwards.
Reinstalled original OEM ignition control module. Towed to GM Dealership, mechanic said fuel pump was bad, ignition wires needed replaced, one injector ohmed bad. I took car home, replaced fuel pump (OEM), ignition wires (OEM), no luck. Removed plenum, found pcv valve clogged, and hose kinked, replaced both, ohmed all 6 injectors, 5 injectors read 12.3 ohms, 1 injector was 11.6. Replaced all 6 injectors, (Napa), plenum gasket, still same problem.
GM dealership said computer said no data, they though perhaps ignition control module was bad, but I don't think so. I hooked up my Actron shorting plug, reads code 12 which means no faults, no other codes. I noticed EGR valve has a lot of carbon in the hole, thought about changing it, but I'm really not sure where to go now. The car is a 1994 Chevy Lumina with 230,000 miles, spent about $500 the last week doing brakes, and trying to fix this engine. Where to go from here.
I own a 95 chevy 1500 with a 5.7 engine. The other day I'm driving home and my truck completely stalls out and has no power what so ever. To be more specific I didn't have lights, radio, key buzz nothing. Well by the time I got the under the hood I had power again and it cranked right up. I put it in drive and 5 minutes down the road and it stalls again with no power what so ever. I've been having problems recently with it stalling at stop signs/red lights but never with a loss of electrical systems. What this could be?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1987 automatic Nissan Sentra XE- two barrel carburetor, mileage 212,880. The car has one major problem that is going to get me hit driving it in rush hour. Most mechanics will not touch the car due to being carburetor.
Let me explain: the car idles real rough at times, hesitates at stop signs and red lights, about stalls out on me when I press the gas pedal to go or when I start to make a left or right turn. However, other times the car has little to no hesitation and idles perfectly. I have not been able to come up with a good a pattern with this problem.
I have replaced, fuel pump & filter, spark plug wires, coil, distributor, ecu computer, ran sea foam through the fuel system and have replaced many vacuum hoses.
I have appointment to bring my 2006 Passat 2.0T in for service but what might be causing the issues. Car surges when I am idle or beaked at a stoplight. It sort of feels like I was pushing both the break and glass pedal at the same time. When I move I no longer notice it. However when I put the car in park it the RPM's seem to go up to about 10 and back down again.
View 8 RepliesDriving at steady speed, doesn't matter what speed, let off gas and the tach surges 500 rpms and the car keeps going on it's own for a while. also pulling a hill at freeway speed car bucks like a spark plug miss, but not with the cruise on and engaged. smooth as silk then. 2009 Sonata 4 cyl, 30k miles.
View 1 Replies96 Chevy express 1500 V8-305. Have a P0305 code...Misfire on 5. Let me tell you everything I have done so nobody wastes their time.
I have, replaced the entire ignition system, "EVERYTHING" including a new distributor...Not the problem... I did a compression test...Not the problem...injector cleaning...not the problem.
When I moved the wire harness that goes into the "spyder" fuel injector system the engine smoothed out. I untaped the harness from around the plug and applied pressure to each wire the engine smoothed out. The back row 2nd pink wire seems to cause the most reaction.
My question is...Is it the wire harness or is it the injector system not reading plug? or could it be a combination of the 2? If I replace the wire harness might I still have to replace the injector system?
Symptoms:
-Car "Surges" at any speed. Loss of power is significant.
-Check engine light is on , DTC code = P0420
Tried:
-Fuel injector cleaner
-Spark plugs replaced around 40k miles ago
-Checked for leaking valve cover gasket (oil in plug wells) None
Can a clogged fuel filter cause this? At idle the car is fine, the symptoms seem to only occur when car is under load (In drive). My son drove this car an it always seemed empty meaning he never put much gas in it.
2011 F150 - Is it possible to disable the express up/down function and still have your power windows work?
View 1 Replies