Chevy - Cobalt :: 2005 - Sound Like Trying To Lock And Unlock When Car Is Running
Oct 11, 2011
The locks on my 2005 Chevy cobalt sound like they are trying to lock and unlock when the car is running. The locks themselves don't move while this is happening. It has been to the dealer twice and no luck. The first time it went in, they said the left and right lock switches were shorted so they replaced them. The second time it went in they said that the ground wires were corroded and they fixed that problem. The car drove fine for a few days, now the same problem is occurring.
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My Chevy Venture 1998 power lock doors will unlock but won't lock. Checked fuse and is ok.
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Recently purchased a used 2006 Chevy cobalt, seems like an alright car so far. But lately when I turn on the car and also sometimes when I switch the heat on there is a clicking sound behind the dash on the passengers side that lasts less then 10 seconds. Is it safe to drive on? Or am I causing some great internal damage by just living with the noise instead of repairing it asap (bc tight on cash rn)?
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My landlord's daughter is having some electrical problems with her car, and we're trying to troubleshoot it ourselves. It's a 2006 chevy cobalt with 66,000 miles on it. Here are the issues: 1) The radio's display does not work (you can't see the time or the station). The radio's volume, on/off switch, AM/FM control, and tuner don't work. So, basically, it's stuck on one AM station and she can't do anything about it. 2) Her power locks occasionally lock / unlock themselves when the vehicle is running. 3) This is the most important safety issue right now - there's no power to the pump for her windshield washing fluid. What could it be? Fuses? Wiring? Something else?
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I have a 2012 SE HB. Is there any way to have the remote lock and unlock the doors while the engine is running?
Also, my window lock button locks all of the window roll down buttons in the car except the driver side window button. It even locks the window buttons on the driver side door. Why in the world would it be useful to lock myself out of rolling down a window? Is there any way to fix this so that I can roll down the rear or passenger windows while they are locked for the kids in the back?
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I have a chevy cobalt and recently just upgraded the pistons and rods. I've driven it about 1k miles since the replacement and it just started making a ticking noise. It sounds like its up in the head. I've changed my timing chain tensioner bolt, also replaced the rod bearings. Everything lines up at TDC but around 2-3k rpm it starts ticking. I'm also getting a P0300 code. When I pop the hood I hear a leak somewhere but can't find it. I've also tried using carb cleaner at the injectors to see if a gas leak was accruing, but nothing changed in the rpms.
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My Chevy Cobalt will not start in cold weather. I don't think bad battery is the case here because it's started in warmer temperatures. What could be wrong??
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i have a 2005 chevy malibu classic. a few months ago it started sputtering when we would try to crank it and would take several tries before it would run, then it stopped. So far we have replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, idle air control valve and crankshaft sensor, and it still wont stay running when you try to give it the gas, it dies....
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I have a 2005 Elantra GT with just over 52000 miles on it. A few months ago I started to have issues with the fob lock button not working. It came and went, usually not working when the weather was very cold. But the power locks triggered from the driver's side door still worked, and the fob could still be used to arm the alarm. Unlocking via the fob worked.
For the past couple of weeks, neither the fob or the drivers side power lock button have been working, and I locked all of the doors and hatch manually. After the last door was locked, the hazards would flash indicating the car was locked, and I could still use the fob to arm the alarm. Unlocking via the fob worked.
As of a few days ago, the hazards no longer flash when all of the doors are locked, and the fob cannot arm the alarm. The fob still unlocks the doors just fine, though.
I've checked the fuse for the power locks in the interior panel (it's good). Using either the fob or the driver's side door lock control causes a clicking noise from the dashboard, but nothing else happens. The driver's side door latch cable was replaced about a month ago.
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Ok, it's cold out... is there a way that I can use my factory key fob to lock and unlock the doors with the truck running? 2000 F350.
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2008 Escape, while driving, the doors will lock/unlock themselves like crazy. Sometimes it's 20 times, others it's 100 times. Sometimes it won't happen for a day or two, sometimes it's every time I drive it. When the car is off, remote works fine, car stays locked. Where to start?
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My first question is, if it's possible to switch the beep-sound on, when locking or unlocking my doors by the remote. I think in the US its common to hear a sound when locking. Here in Austria it's forbidden (noice level), but I want to have that sound. Is it possible to engage it? Or is there something missing in my 2002 Camry?
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I have azera 2006 , originally i don't have buzzer sound on lock/unlock the car by remote. so i get a siren horn 12v and i tried to connect this one to the car motor locking(front right side),when i tried it gave me sound on lock or on unlock not with both ways.finally i failed to do it and i decide to cancel that. after that i had a problem, when i lock the car by remote, there is no indication lights coming tells that the car is locked, but the doors are locked except there is no light from the turn signs and if you try to open the trunk it will open, that should not be. Also, if you are inside the car and the car is on, if some one open or close the right door the car will make 3 times door unlocking. So, i think shortage happened to the module or to some sensors so the system not close the circuit.
Is this car has a control module for key less entry or that combined with bcm.
Do i need to change the module or bcm?
Do i need to reprogram the keys?
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I took my 2005 V6 'Reg into the dealership for service. It has about 6700 miles. The problem is it sounds like the amp is 'clipping', which means there is a loud electric 'thud' sound when I lock/unlock the doors. While there I asked the service advisor to do all applicable TSBs and informed her that sometimes the CD player won't eject the CD. Lastly, I advised them that the wipers made a really loud sound when they wipe.
Well, this dealership does not have loaner cars available. They have outsourced them to Enterprise Rent-A-Car. The dealership will pay $30 per day and I am responsible for the taxes, which are 15% of the $30 per day. Is this fair? I don't think I should be responsible for paying taxes for a rental car (a Mitsu Lancer or VW Jetta were my two choices, no less).
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I own a Hyundai Elantra 2015 SE, and was wondering if it has a door lock/unlock beeping sound. It doesn't beep at the moment when I lock and unlock it. I don't know if there is a setting or something. I've tried looking in the owner's manual, but found nothing.
I personally think it's a nice feature and would love to have it enabled in my car.
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Some background: New remotes programmed worked a month then stopped working, toyota dealer got it working for a month but only worked within 3 feet of door. Now not working at all. Could it be receiver for remote in the car? Where is it? How to fix?
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I know there is an Option to adjust the beeping sound when Lock or Unlock Doors (I tried that already). But Is that possible to make the Beeping sound really loud..I mean loud like honking the Horn. Know what I'm talking about?
On the 2001 Nissan Xterra, when I Lock the door ..sound like the horn.
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I want to disable that beep beep sound when you lock or unlock the vehicle with the remote. Does this can be disable?
On my previous Nissan Altima, you can toggle this feature by pressing the lock+unlock simultaneously. I tried that on the Corolla, it does not work.
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I have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
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