Chevy - Cavalier :: 2004 - When Car Is Idling Engine Begins To Overheat
Jun 10, 2011
We have base line 2004 Cavalier coupe that has about 130K miles on it. It is currently doing two things: When the car is idling the engine begins to overheat, and the air conditioning goes awol. As soon as forward movement begins again, the temperature goes back to acceptable levels, and the air conditioning becomes cool again. Since these problems occur simultaneously, it leads me to think they might be related.
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I have a 1999 Chrysler 300M. It is overheating in a strange way. After driving 3 miles it begins to overheat. Sometimes it will overheat, then quickly drop back down to normal temperature, but then overheat again. When going up any grade it definitely overheats.
I have had the car in for repair at two mechanics. Both have GIVEN UP on fixing the problem. Here is what they tried: Replacing both radiator fans, replacing the thermostat, replacing the water pump. The car is also losing coolant. None of these repairs has solved the problem what-so-ever. It's a mystery. And I keep being deeper in the hole with money What could it be?? Someone said it could be the temperature sensor. Is that true?
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My 1997 Saturn SL has had an odd overheating problem for several years now. When idling the engine starts to overheat, but the fan does not kick in until/unless I turn on the AC.( I do a lot of idling, as I work from the car a good deal.) I've had the car serviced, even had the fan specifically checked in the shop, & had the AC components changed out last year (whole other issue, barely blows cool air). But the overheating abides.
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Recently the 'check engine' light went on in my 2005 Chevy Cavalier. since I couldn't afford the typical diagnosis charge, I went somewhere where they code it at no cost. They said it was the gas cap, so I went to a dealer & bought one. (They also turned the light off for me.) Problem is now the light is back on. While I was at the dealer, the mechanic said it will have to be properly checked to pass inspection; apparently it has something to do w/ emissions. Is that true?
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier, 4 door, I had it jump started a couple of times, and it locked my stereo,/ Cd Player, I have tried everything, You are not able to do anything with it, it just says locked on it, I have tried to get any codes to come up but they don't, If I push any buttons, I also don't have the codes to it or manual to it.
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I have a 1998 chevy cavalier, 4 door, 2.2 liter SOHC, which has been running hot for a while now. readings are off the dash guage, here's the scenario. on startup from cold, the temperature begins to rise within 60 seconds, reaching what i consider normal operating temperature within three to five minutes, at approximately the "NO" in " NORMAL" on the gauge.
It reaches what has become it's usual operating temperature, at "RM" within another minute or two. If i am in stop and go traffic, the temperature will rapidly reach the final mark after the "L", but not the red zone. If I get on the highway, the temperature will reduce back to the "RM" position within one to two minutes, three to four minutes in steady traffic at lower speeds, i.e. 35 and all green lights. Thermostat has been replaced, water pump has been replaced, electric cooling fan is running correctly, radiator is free and clear of debris.
When I first got the car back in 2000, it ramped up to heat much more slowly, and hung out at "NO" in all types of traffic. in 2004 i went and picked up my car from my father's place, he had taken it to the local shop and had it given the once over, which is when this problem began showing up, and has gotten progressively worse over the years. I've gotten nowhere with other mechanics, the system is leak free, and the coolant tests good.
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The entire cooling system has been overhauled; including heater core replaced 3 times, new radiator, new theromostat 2 times, new water pump, new radiator hose. Truck continues to overheat into the red quickly with or without a/c on.
1996 chevy s10 blazer 4x4 4.3 liter (1 owner).
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OK, we have a cavalier that is slowly dying but until we find a good price on a used car we are looking at it has to keep chugging along... It started to overheat about month ago, just when you go up a hill otherwise it is fine (doesn't overheat but a few lines from the red zone!). Mechanic said it was a head gasket and we have noticed that the coolant level is down slightly... can it be a head gasket yet still drivable? Also about 2 months ago the car needed a new water pump, flushed and filled, could it just be the new water pump was bad? No other issues, heat works fine, no puddles under the car etc....
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I have a 99 Chevy Cavalier with the 2.2L OHV engine, and I've been dealing with vibration when braking, especially at highway speeds. I just had it in for service and my mechanic replaced a warped front rotor and said that was the problem. It's better now than it was, but I'm still getting some vibration.
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I have a 2001 chevy cavalier, the base 2.2 model with a 5 speed manual transmission.
I can't shift into 1st, 3rd, or 5th gear. On occasion I can get into 1st but it pops out almost instantly. I have the shift boot up, it looks like the shifter won't go far enough to click into gear for the top 3 gears.
2nd and 4th don't have any issues, reverse works as well though can sometimes be more difficult than usual.
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4.7 ltr 2WD starts fine and while cold runs fine. Seems after an hour or so of driving the engine begins to skip. Will idle just fine but when giving gas the engine skips and refuses to accelerate beyond 1700 rpm. Had the cats changed 6 months ago. someone suggested the MAF sensor might be bad....so cleaned it. Still runs rough. I suspect it might be a sensor. If I leave the car overnight ...runs fine in the morning. Engine gets hot....begins to skip and cannot accelerate unless going down hill. Vehicle skips especially when under a load.
Does the MAF sensor have anything to do with this? Maybe it could be the Engine Coolant Sensor? Not sure what to do. Don't want to throw parts at it without some idea what is causing it. BTW...no check engine lights at all. And nothing showed up on the computer when it was running rough. Tech told me cylinders 2 and 4 were not firing properly but immediately after cleaning the MAF sensor the car ran fine for 4 minutes then problem returned.
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My AC pulleys bearing froze up and broke the belt. I replaced the pulley and clutch, checked fuses and relays, all good. The clutch still wouldn't engage.I bought some AC 134A and put half a can and its still not engaging. How do I get that clutch to engage?
2002 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Ecotec engine
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I have a manual transmission, 2003 Chevy Cavalier with 197,000 miles. Car has been great up until 6 months ago. My husband is great with keeping up with oil changes/ routine car maintenance. The reason for my post is, I am having two main problems with my car
1.) Significant drops in RPMs while stopped.
2.) lurching while on the accelerator.
The significant drops in RPMs occur while at a complete stop and do not occur at every stop, it seems completely random. This first started roughly 5-6 months ago, my husband replaced the spark plugs and it was running fine until last week. Same symptoms- while at a stop it fluctuates between an idle of 1000rpms down to almost 0 (car has never died, but sounds like it comes close). The second set of symptoms have been fairly consistent the past 2-3 months. At first I thought I had some bad fuel so I applied fuel treatment- seemed to solve the problem until I filled up again. Same problem- again treated with fuel treatment, and issue resolved.
The same tank of fuel got down to 1/4 tank, and symptoms started a third time. Again- fuel treatment. The car is now down to 1/2 a tank and the lurching has started once again. There is no way I continue to get this unlucky with bad fuel. The car lurches forward more when I maintain a higher speed (50-60mph) but on occassion can occur while going much slower. It typically jerks for 5ish miles, it doesnt occur my entire drive to/from work (22miles). My check engine light is on, but has been for years. This is my daily driver, I depend on this car and am nervous if I dont find out what is wrong- ill end up stranded.
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I have a 2000 vw Gti vr6. It leaks coolant smokes and starts to over heat when idling. Does fine when driving down the road. It has a new radiator. When pressure tested I can see a little stream of coolant coming out. But there's no space in the engine bay and I can't see exactly where it's coming from. Like I said it only happens when it's Idling for an extended period of time. It does fine going down the road.
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i got a problem with my 96' 2.4 auto cavalier. It idles really rough at idle. I've replaced alternator, battery, idle air control valve, intake, plugs, and the fuel pump in the last year and a half. I've noticed that the rpms will fluctuate between about 625-675 when it's idling rough. About once every 11 seconds the car will rev up for a moment and will idle smooth but then it idle rough again. Every one in a while it will throw trouble code p0200 random multiple cylinder misfire.
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My daughter says that the AC on her 2001 Chevy Cavalier cuts off when she is idling.
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1992 Chevy Cavalier, about 120,000 miles. A few months ago my car has started to rumble and vibrate while idling in drive. It only occurs while I'm in drive and completely stopped. If I change to neutral or park, it immediately goes away. Also, if I'm in drive, keep my foot on the brake and give it a little gas, the vibration goes away. I've changed the spark plugs, had the throttle body cleaned (not very thoroughly) and my mechanic said my engine mounts look fine and to not worry too much about it. Is this a problem I can ignore as an inconvenience or should I put more effort into getting this fixed?
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I own a 2004 Silverado 1500. Nearly every time I drive, I loose temperature control on the driver's side after about 15 minutes of running the engine. The passenger's side seems to be working fine. I'm not sure if it is a bad rheostat on the driver's side or a bigger issue.
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I've got a 2004 V4 Honda Accord. For the past few weeks I've been having problems starting it. The engine cranks at first, but won't turn over and then the cranking slows and stops--over the course of a few seconds. If I let it sit for a second and try it again it will start on the 2nd or 3rd or 4th attempt. But then some days it starts without any problems at all.
It's very well-maintained, and I just recently splurged for one of those overpriced maintenance schedules from the dealership (though didn't mention this problem to them because I don't trust them). Hoses, lines, fuel connections etc. were all inspected. I took it to my local mechanic yesterday and of course it didn't have any trouble starting while I was there. The battery and starter tested fine, so he was at a loss.
Now it just occurred to me that the only thing that wasn't checked were the spark plugs, so of course that's my suspicion--and they are due for a change. Does this problem sound like it could be spark plugs?
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2nd gear runs fine, but occasionally, when in first i have a real bad stutter in the engine and it continues from the moment the clutch begins to engage on up. The car just seems to jump or skip along rather than run smooth.. It occasionally will work itself out but other times will continue for 5 seconds at which i switch into second gear and everything is gravy from there. What the main root cause of this is? I don't want to get the wrong thing fixed which I've been trending on lately.
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I have an 05 F150 2WD Auto, 4.2 (work truck)...I have owned it since new, no accidents , no towing...used as an "extra car." It now has about 36K on it. About a month ago, I noticed a vibration felt throughout the vehicle. You definitely feel it in your backside and the rear of the truck. I have since purchased new tires, roadforced balanced twice, and also just had the front and rear u joints replaced. (the shop said the center was rather difficult to replace and would require sending the driveshaft out to replace) Nevertheless, the front and rear were replaced. They said the center u joint "seems" fine however.
The tires and wheels are pretty much perfect. The vibration begins around 30 mph or so and is most evident to around 50 mph...both on acceleration AND deceleration.
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