Chevy - Cavalier :: 2003 - RPM Drop Significantly While Stopped / Lurching While On Accelerator
Mar 20, 2014
I have a manual transmission, 2003 Chevy Cavalier with 197,000 miles. Car has been great up until 6 months ago. My husband is great with keeping up with oil changes/ routine car maintenance. The reason for my post is, I am having two main problems with my car
1.) Significant drops in RPMs while stopped.
2.) lurching while on the accelerator.
The significant drops in RPMs occur while at a complete stop and do not occur at every stop, it seems completely random. This first started roughly 5-6 months ago, my husband replaced the spark plugs and it was running fine until last week. Same symptoms- while at a stop it fluctuates between an idle of 1000rpms down to almost 0 (car has never died, but sounds like it comes close). The second set of symptoms have been fairly consistent the past 2-3 months. At first I thought I had some bad fuel so I applied fuel treatment- seemed to solve the problem until I filled up again. Same problem- again treated with fuel treatment, and issue resolved.
The same tank of fuel got down to 1/4 tank, and symptoms started a third time. Again- fuel treatment. The car is now down to 1/2 a tank and the lurching has started once again. There is no way I continue to get this unlucky with bad fuel. The car lurches forward more when I maintain a higher speed (50-60mph) but on occassion can occur while going much slower. It typically jerks for 5ish miles, it doesnt occur my entire drive to/from work (22miles). My check engine light is on, but has been for years. This is my daily driver, I depend on this car and am nervous if I dont find out what is wrong- ill end up stranded.
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There is roughly 800 on the odometer and I was averaging around 35 mpg. I filled it up and driving home afterwards I noticed the mpg drop off significantly. Now I'm lucky to get get 27. It was as low as 16 on the trip computer. The range was the same and the miles come off in sync with the odometer. I'm wondering if its a glitch with the trip computer?
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I have a 99 Chevy Cavalier with the 2.2L OHV engine, and I've been dealing with vibration when braking, especially at highway speeds. I just had it in for service and my mechanic replaced a warped front rotor and said that was the problem. It's better now than it was, but I'm still getting some vibration.
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I have a 2001 chevy cavalier, the base 2.2 model with a 5 speed manual transmission.
I can't shift into 1st, 3rd, or 5th gear. On occasion I can get into 1st but it pops out almost instantly. I have the shift boot up, it looks like the shifter won't go far enough to click into gear for the top 3 gears.
2nd and 4th don't have any issues, reverse works as well though can sometimes be more difficult than usual.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier, 4 door, I had it jump started a couple of times, and it locked my stereo,/ Cd Player, I have tried everything, You are not able to do anything with it, it just says locked on it, I have tried to get any codes to come up but they don't, If I push any buttons, I also don't have the codes to it or manual to it.
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Recently the 'check engine' light went on in my 2005 Chevy Cavalier. since I couldn't afford the typical diagnosis charge, I went somewhere where they code it at no cost. They said it was the gas cap, so I went to a dealer & bought one. (They also turned the light off for me.) Problem is now the light is back on. While I was at the dealer, the mechanic said it will have to be properly checked to pass inspection; apparently it has something to do w/ emissions. Is that true?
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My AC pulleys bearing froze up and broke the belt. I replaced the pulley and clutch, checked fuses and relays, all good. The clutch still wouldn't engage.I bought some AC 134A and put half a can and its still not engaging. How do I get that clutch to engage?
2002 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 Ecotec engine
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We have base line 2004 Cavalier coupe that has about 130K miles on it. It is currently doing two things: When the car is idling the engine begins to overheat, and the air conditioning goes awol. As soon as forward movement begins again, the temperature goes back to acceptable levels, and the air conditioning becomes cool again. Since these problems occur simultaneously, it leads me to think they might be related.
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Car Stats: 2005 Chevy Malibu, Automatic
Just recently while driving my car at a normal speed...(Like 55mph wanted to speed up gradually to 60mph) ..I will push the accelerator and my car wont go any faster. It will act like it is switching to passing gear and then the engine will rev up, the car will lurch forward and then it will finally take off. The RPM's also will increase and then suddenly drop back down to normal.
Also I think this is related to the problem. .... but... when I put the car in the low gear to where I can manually shift it to first second and third. It used to automatically be in the 1st gear... but now it will show up in the third gear and you cannot shift into any other gear.
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2000 sunfire SE 2.2 L engine. Firstly, I should mention the present temperature out here is -37 C.
So here is the issue I am experiencing. The car does not idle smoothly. In fact I find it idles a lot lower then my fiances 2005 sunfire (hers idles at about 1000 RPM). My car idles around 750 RPM. and I've noticed for last couple months when just idling its not very smooth. The RPM will idle at 750 and then drop down a bit and back up again. It never has been a big problem till now.
While driving it yesterday, whenever I would let go of the accelerator the RPM would drop right down to 500RPM, and you would hear as the heater (air blowing) would completely drop down, and lights would dim significantly, and then within a split second, RPM would jump back up to 750 and blower and lights would return to normal. It almost feels as if the RPM is too low for Alternator?? That it's not able to produce enough power for electrical devices. As well, while braking if the ABS kicks in again I see this drop in RPM along with lights dim and blower airflow drop. Once again only for a split second though.
Here is the big problem. the drop in RPM and amount of disruption it causes actually had my car stall when I let go of gas and hit brake and had ABS kick in.
I am not sure if this is a problem with having the idle set too low, spark plug problem or something do with alternator?
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2002 Santa Fe has been misfiring for about a month...yesterday it got worse...When it's running hot and stopped at intersection it lurches forward.. It stalled when backing up after being parked. Mechanic did diagnostic test and it showed zero...He changed 2 wires to spark plugs..Spark plugs have only 20,000 miles and SUV has 68,000 miles.
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I have owned several 7.3's and I have never encountered this issue. I recently picked up a 2001 7.3 with 200k miles on it. When I bought it I knew the glow plugs were going, I also knew it accelerated slow. I went ahead and replaced the plugs, valve gaskets, and added a heavy duty glow plug relay, along with an oil change, and fuel filter.
For some reason, the truck just dose not accelerate very fast at all, significantly slower than any 7.3l I have owned in the past. It appears that I shift at about 3000 rpms and it takes a while to get up to speed. I would like to get it mechanically sound before I restore the body. I was thinking it was the ebpv? but what else could it be?
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So about 3 weeks ago, I was driving down the road at about 55 mph, on cruise control, when my car just started slowing down. I looked to see all of my dashboards lights on and I realized my car was not running. I shifted into neutral and the car started right up again, but when I pushed on the gas it just kind of stuttered and shuttered before dying again. When I came to a stop, again the car started right up, but repeated the shuttering and hesitating when I pushed on the gas and tried to get going again.
So, I repeated, but this time i just pushed very gently on the gas, getting up to between 5-10 mph before the car died again. At this point, it just stopped running completely. The engine would turn over, but would not keep running. When I got it into the shop, the mechanic said they put a fuel pressure gauge on there and the readings indicated that there was plenty of pressure, no problems the fuel pump or lines.
After further research, the mechanic said he thought it was an electrical problem, that it could be the crankshaft sensor or the ignition switch module, but he just did not really know for sure. I had him replace the crankshaft sensor, since it was the cheaper part, and it didn't fix the problem. So now I am just kind of stuck on what to do here.
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So I done some routine maintenance on my car today as I have had it just over a month. Done the oil, filter, thermostat and coolant today. This is the 2azfe, 160,000 k's.
As the title suggests, the accelerator pedal has stopped working, but I'm pretty sure its something I have done. I noticed the idle was a bit strange at times when warm, from third to second gear changes the rpm would jump up to around 1200 rpm, but if I changed from 4th to third gear the rpm would drop down to normal idle. So I decided to try clean the throttle body.
I had done this before on our 5sfe's which we no longer have. All I done was disconnected the air intake hose from the throttle body and sprayed some TB/carby cleaner in. On the 5sfe I could run the engine with the intake pipe off and I tried to on this too. It started and quickly stalled. Ok no big deal. So I put it back together and restarted it ok. It run fun. I gave it a few rev's via the engine bay throttle control and it revved ok. I never thought at this stage to check the accelerator peddle itself. Wasn't until the me n the family went to go somewhere I realised I had no throttle. Strangely, with the engine off I noticed the engine bay throttle control seems a bit notchy.
Anyway, tomorrow I'm gonna disconnect the battery to reset the ECU, and check fuses. Could the throttle bottle/carb cleaner have affected a sensor somehow? There was no problem before I done this so I know its self inflicted.
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I own a 2006 Subaru Tribeca with 125,000 miles. It has been well maintained and a great vehicle. On a recent long distance trip, after driving about 7 hours, going 70mph, the car started to buck and the accelerator stopped responding. It continued to lose speed as I pulled off the side of the highway. I turned the car off and restarted it and attempted to drive it but it wouldn't go over 10-15 mph. I didn't have any check engine lights. Called AAA and had the car towed 4 hours to our final destination. The mechanic has had the car for 4 days and can not find the cause of the event. I have a 22 hour drive back home in a month and I am extremely concerned. Did some research and have found others have had the problem but had codes come up. Research says it could be throttle pedal position sensor/ pedal assembly.
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My wife was driving our Odyssey yesterday approximately 55 mph when the accelerator "all of a sudden" stopped working. The engine was running, but the car would not move. Stranded in the middle of the highway, she turn the car off and back on. The accelerator worked long enough to drive another 8 miles. We changed cars and I started the Odyssey and backed out of the parking space and put transmission into drive. The accelerator was all the way down to the floor, but the car would not move. The engine was on, but was not revving with pressure on the gas pedal.
Hauled the Odyssey to the dealer. Technician started the car and pushed the gas pedal to the floor with no result...and then the car lunged forward "all of a sudden." Technician and Service rep said "We have never seen this before." They kept the Odyssey to check it out. So, do they really know what's going on and just aren't telling me?
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Last winter, my car sporadically stopped while I was driving slowly or while I was standing still. I usually turned the engine off and restarted it right away without a problem. It happened a few times and then it stopped. This winter, it began again - frequently. I realize now that it only happens during the cold months.
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My 2003 Honda Civic Hybrid has lurched for over a year now. The dealership has run tests and can't seem to figure it out -- though my budget has only allowed them to take a look at it 2 or 3 times.
Things I know:
* lurches are accompanied by RPM fluctuations
* only lurches at slow speeds (under 30 mph?)
* only lurches on a slow, steady deceleration -- does not lurch in acceleration or quick deceleration
* dealership replaced O2 sensor; had no effect
* Jiffy Lube flushed oil and (I think) transmission fluid systems; had no effect
* previous owner did not perform regular maintenance; missed oil changes, etc.
* lurching seemed to get really bad last summer, getting progressively worse until the car died on the road. The nearest mechanic said I was out of oil (which surprised me because I had changed the oil maybe 2 months prior?
)* lurching can be minimized by turning off AC/heat
Things that MIGHT be playing a part? seems like it gets worse in summer heat. Definitely still happens in winter though, so this may be my imagination.
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2003 E300. For a while I have experienced intermittent hesitation and I just put up with it as it was only a bit annoying. It has since worsened to a lot of hesitation and lurching, to the point where, at times, I'm concerned about stalling out and/or getting rear-ended. I took it to my dealer. They installed and ECU update. However, that did not solve the problem. The service manager said that it is an "inherent condition" and it is operating as designed.
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I've had my camry SE special edition model since november of 2015. I have noticed that on a few occasions(less than 10) that when stopped the rpm's drop and it shudders for about 2-4 seconds then the rpm's rise again and its good.
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I have been noticing that the idle in my car while stopped at a light will sometimes drop to 500 rpm. This makes the car feel shaky at idle. As soon as I put it into neutral or reverse the rpm jump to 750 rpm. Intermittent issue, what this could be??? Its probably happened 3-4 times in the last 6 weeks. Its annoying.
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