Chevy - Blazer :: 2002 - Driving On Steep Island Roads
Apr 23, 2013
I recently moved to a place in the Caribbean that has very steep paved & unpaved roads, lots of potholes. I have a 2002 Chevy blazer, has 4wd, hi & low (not automatic 4wd). What is the best way to drive these roads? Someone told me its ok to leave the truck in 4wd when on "the country" roads even though they are paved but the Chevy manual says not to do this. I have been putting it in second to go down the hills. Still figuring out up hill. I'm not used to driving this terrain and want to learn it right.
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My 2002 hyundai sonata drives fine but when i drive it on poth holes or rough roads, the car sways. What the problem is?
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I have a 2002 Subaru Outback that has started overheating only when I try to go up into the mountains. It starts within a few miles of starting up a steep grade and cools down the instant you start down the mountain. I have had no problems with regular driving conditions. The only pertinent info might be that it did have a coolant leak last summer and overheated then.
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2002 4Runner 4x4, 180K miles. I bought this car about a year ago and don't know anything about its history before that but it seems to be in good shape.
About every month or two I take a trip that includes driving a few miles on a dirt road. It is a graded road in pretty decent shape. What has happened about 6 times during the year is that the CEL comes on while I am driving on the dirt road. The car continues to run well. When I get home and hook up my code reader the code is always P0420 Catalyst efficiency below threshold.
To save everyone the trouble of looking that up, this code indicates that either the upstream or downstream A/F Ratio sensor is bad. If both sensors test good then it is probably a bad cat.
What is different here is that after I clear the code, the CEL stays off as long as I stay on paved roads. So to summarize, I don't get the code every time I drive on a dirt road but every time the CEL has come on it is while I was on a dirt road.
So it seems that something about driving on a dirt road causes the CEL. Two obvious things you get on a dirt road are dust and vibration. What could be causing this? I did a visual inspection of the whole exhaust but did not see anything obvious such as cracks or leaks.
And of course I could live with this if I have to since it comes up under such limited circumstances. I just like to keep my cars running properly.
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The entire cooling system has been overhauled; including heater core replaced 3 times, new radiator, new theromostat 2 times, new water pump, new radiator hose. Truck continues to overheat into the red quickly with or without a/c on.
1996 chevy s10 blazer 4x4 4.3 liter (1 owner).
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When I turn the key over to start the vehicle, the clock resets to 1:00, the back latch clicks and the car kind of makes a grinding sound but not like a churn as if it wanted to start. I don't know if it is just a dying battery or if it would be something else but my car will not start at all.
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Okay I am having a problem with my A/C in my Blazer I've had my compressor replaced finally got all of my leaks fixed and replaced all the visible vacuum hoses and still without by passing my heater core I have no Air Conditioning. It just keeps blowing out hot air. Why my Air Conditioner is working. I really like my blazer but after having invested a little over 600.00 into just getting the A/C up and going with no luck is just getting frustrating. I am considering selling it and getting a truck. I would like to keep it if I can get the A/C up and going but I don't want to have to invest a whole lot more money into it.
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96 chevy blazer overheated did compression test number 3 was low on compression. And number 3 misfire.
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My 1992 chevy k1500 blazer full size is having trouble shifting from 1st and 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. I reset the linkage it did fine for a day and now it's doing the same thing but it almost goes into neutral while shifting into some gears. And seems to lack power, the 92 doesn't have cyanoids and the transmission was redone 2 years ago when I got the truck. Could this have anything to do with the fuel filter? I know the transmission isn't bad. The Rpms are shooting up way too high.
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I have a problem with my 1998 Chevrolet Blazer. It won't go in reverse, but will go into gear going forward. I don't know whats wrong or what the cause is.
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1999 Chevy Blazer, 4.3L V6, 173,447 miles
Working on his 1999 Blazer that he just bought, it has an electrical problem.....the gauges are inop, and the engine wont shut down and the 4X4 wont engage unless the headlight switch is turned on and in some instances the high beams must be on. We have replaced the high beam multi switch, the headlight switch and the ignition module. We suspect that it might be a bad ground or the interior light module.
We just replaced the engine the other day but the problem existed prior to the motor swap.
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I have a 97 chevy blazer, that has no headlights. the daytime running lights, dash and marker lights all work but not the headlights or high beams?
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I have a 98 chevy blazer that the dash lights and interment cluster (including odometer) only works at night when u turn on the headlights by the switch. And the truck starts sometimes. I placed a piece of tape over the sensor on the dash for the auto lights( this made the dash, interment, odometer work) but now truck will not start. I've been told its the ignition switch.
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I recently drove my 2004 Prius up some steep hills in the Smoky mountains. The next morning while driving to work, my dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree, with multiple idiot lights suddenly on simultaneously (none of them informative).
I turned around and drove to the nearest Toyota service center. They informed me that the timing belt was cracked, the HV computer was bad, and the PCV valve as dirty and needed replacing. I think the hills were too much for the car. I will never take the car into the mountains again.
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I have an E-350 with auto trans and 460 engine. I am away from home and hope to make it back where I have tools to do the major work. I drove up a very steep hill and the trans fluid leaked at the steep part, but only when pointed uphill. I did it a 2nd time and it only leaked at the steep part (I was not aware of this the first time or I would not have done it again). Fluid was dripping out pretty good at the bell of trans. No leaks when in drive or R when engine running and level.
I added fluid and tried to back uphill to get van out of this place and it worked fine for a min, but now just rolls downhill. My question is can I just add fluid and get home? What the leak is? How long I can drive it, or if it will leak too much? When I get home (150 miles) I can do any repair needed, Im just trying to get home now.
I know we will be guessing a lot. Van is a 1995 Ford Cube Van, formerly a Ryder moving van. E-350 with the 460 engine, and 3 speed OD trans. I don't know any more detail on the trans. It should be heavy duty given it was a moving van. Van is probably 10-12,000lbs.
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I am having an engine temp issue when climbing steep hills. The gauge goes from normal to the red line but not into the red. The VDC OFF light is on but the CEL is not one. Once I reach the top of the hill the engine begins to cool off and returns to normal. Yesterday I had the radiator flushed and the thermostat changed. Am I looking at a water pump or head gaskets?
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Ok, I have a noise, rattle, clunk that is bothering the heck out of me. I know it is not the famous clunk from the yoke or the pads missing on the leaf springs. I have even removed the Tailgate thinking that was the issue, but no it was not.
When driving on gravel roads or if I hit small bumps in the road I hear the noise and it sounds like it is coming from underneath and towards the rear of the truck. It is hard to explain the sound, but it almost sounds as if there was something loose and the metal is hitting again the frame?? I have 126000 miles on it, so I figured I would replace the shocks, they needed it and that did not work, it is still there.
Now the twist, when the temp outside gets below 60 the noise starts to fade away or I have to run over a bigger bump to hear it, and below 40 it almost does not exist. Now the hotter it gets out, the more I hear it and during the summer months it is really annoying. I have also looked underneath and could not find anything that looked cracked, broke or loose.
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This morning i've been to toyota to do the regular service and to try to find that what is creating this noise on my front end ,they removed brackets etc and lube anti roll bar bushes and top mounts as best possible. Still the noise is there. We recreated the noise this morning by circling around at full lock multiple times . They said that if the lube would not solve the problem it could be the struts mount.
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I seem to have a problem getting our 2002 Chevy Blazer to shift out of 4WD. We hardly ever use the 4wd, but quite a bit of snow today, so switched it on. Later in the day, it started to melt and we had dry pavement, so we tried to switch it back to the 2HI position.
After pressing the 2HI button, there were several clicks, sounding like it was coming from the glove compartment area, the 2HI light would flash for a couple seconds, then switch back to 4HI.
It is an automatic, I searched the manual and tried everything it suggested, I'm thinking maybe some type of relay, sensor or fuse is out?
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Just recently I've noticed clunking in the rear of the car while driving on bumpy roads, on semi-smooth roads the clunking barely happens. I jacked up the rear of the car today to check for broken brackets/bolts/ect. and found nothing. Re-greased the sway bar bushings and tightened down the endlinks a tad (part where it attaches to the sway bar, the top ones look tight but didn't check. ). Cant seem to find anything wrong. The car is 40k miles, had tein solara springs since 3k miles, got the 23mm ur racing sway bar put in at around 15-20k miles, and then bc coilovers around 35k miles. My best guess is that the rear endlinks are done and need replacing.
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I have a rattling problem with my 2011 Prius and Here are the quick facts:
The rattling typically happens while going over bumps or driving on patchy roads. It happens when running over the "buttons" on the road.
The noise is not related to RPM, or transition from battery to engine usage.
If I had to describe the noise, I would call it a "plasticy" buzzing/ticking.
It definitely sources from the driver side dashboard. Passengers cannot hear it well.
This is a video of the rattling.
I have tried pressing down on various panels, none seem to eliminate or dampen the sound completely.
However! Smacking the light-gray panel below the "triangle window" use to temporarily reduce the noise.
I've tried removing the same panel below the driver side "triangle window" because I thought the noise was coming from there but it persisted.
I read on another rattle thread that the column supporting the roof (and bordering the triangle window) is the real culprit, but punching it only reduces the rattle sometimes.
I've brought it into my local Toyota and they did a search for anything that could be rattling. They didn't work, and after they finished the center console was rattling too (which I've fixed).
Also, cold weather seems to worsen the symptoms. I should also state that sometimes I have little to no rattling, but on other trips there is no end to the rattling.
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