Chevy :: Airbag Readiness Light Staying On While Driving
Aug 23, 2011
The airbag readiness light stays on while driving my chevy truck. I know it means that there is a problem with the airbag system. My question is: Will the airbag go off randomly while driving? not during an accident?
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So today I get in my car and the air bag light is on solid, no blinking. I scanned it with my scanner and it says no codes Any body else have this happen? I got a bad feeling about this light
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Not sure what happen that led to the Airbag light next to the speedo staying on.
Codes retrieved:
B1346 = DAB circuit resistance high
B1481 = DAB module circuit resistance high
B1329 = DFIS to SRSCM communication error
B2502 = Telltale ind light circuit malfunction
B1388 = Driver Seat track position sensor open or short to power
B1378 = DSAB circuit resistance too high
B2500 = Air Bag Warning light circuit fault
B1511 = Driver Belt Buckle switch circuit open or short to power
Where to begin solving for this problem.
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I have a 1999 jeep Cherokee there is no check engine light on. But the air bag light stay on. I scan for a code it gave me a ( p.0.1698). What that is. My code scanner only go up to p.0.900...
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I have a 2005 dodge caravan auto trans the air bag light stays on hooked it to a computer it reads driver seat belt tensioner circuit open I have replaced both ends of the seat belt but it is still on what could be wrong?
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I have a 2007 sonata gls with 2.4l engine. The airbag light on instrument panel stays on. A code b1102 has been stored. The code description is low voltage. I've been told its a bad srs module under center console.
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Just recently started getting what started as an intermittent air bag light that is now on constant. I seem to be getting a code 33.
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I have a 97 f150 4x4 4.6 the airbag light in the cluster is constantly staying on it does not flash at all. The only threads I can find are for the airbag light flashing which mine does not do. The passenger airbag light is not burnt out so that's not the problem. Where to start looking.
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Just bought a 2002 F-250 4x4 Off-Road Crew Cab 7.3L and the airbag light is staying on. I have found out after the fact that the truck has been previously involved in a front end collision. The damage was to the passenger side front. I turn the ignition on, the airbag light will come on solid (just like all the rest, with the exception of the 4x4 and 4x4 low) then go out. Then it flashes slowly 2x then 5x, then goes out for a bit then repeats a few times before staying on. This tells me I am getting a code of 25. I have searched with no luck to narrow this issue down. Everything mechanically works, cruise, horn, etc. The only thing I can find wrong is when I engage the 4-wheel drive (floor shifter) the indicator lights do not illuminate in the instrument cluster. Neither the 4x4 nor the 4x4 low. I am unfamiliar with this truck, so I don't know where to began searching. I cant afford to take it to a dealer and I have children in the truck quite often, so I would like to remedy this very quickly.
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The malfunction indicator light on my 2004 Hyundai Elantra stays on from the time I start the car and stays on while driving. I know that it needs to be taken to have the code read but I was just wondering what this meant and if it is a serious problem.
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Came on while i was driving on the highway, i pulled into a rest stop turned my car off gave it a minute. drove it again and it came on after like 10 seconds.pulled off the next exit, turned it on gave it a minute again and i haven't gotten it on since. this was two days ago.
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I am the new owner of Prius 2008. I have it just a week.
Now, when I drive, I notice the passenger air bag light is always on, whether there is a passenger in the seat or not. Is this normal?
When a passenger sits in the front seat, the air bag "on" signal is illuminated, which stays on and I think this is normal. My question is should the passenger air bag light stay illuminated even if no passenger is in the front seat? Any easy solutions or am I worrying about nothing?
Couple days ago the security system was installed. Maybe the tech guy did something wrong..
I am adding a picture how it looks like ....
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SO my car since i have replaced the stock air-box tubing hasnt thrown a code in over 300 miles, and usually it came back within 100 miles.... so i assumed all is well, but nope! i drove it to the inspection place again and it wont read at all so they said readiness isn't set yet, is their a way i can have some1 in nj with vagcom come down and meet me at the place in bound brook nj and set its readiness right there??????? anyways i dont know what to do this is getting tedious and expensive.
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While driving on the highway I lowered my seat. Once it got to the lowest setting, I heard something sort of like a snap, and it threw an airbag light, so I raised the seat back up. I'm new to VW, but I know there's lots of possibilities for the light.
2000 Jetta GLS
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1.8T ... Failed smog test, then got PCV hoses repaired. Now I'm failing because the OBD readiness codes won't reset. I've driven over 100 miles and the shop that fixed it said to "just keep driving it" but that they have no other solution to get those codes to reset. Any tips to those codes to ready?
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Last night, my 2008 Prius was hit from the rear. The bumper was damaged as well as a few starches on the hatch. However the latch for the hatch was move forward so the hatch no longer latches. Also during the collision, my daughter's heavy backpack was throw against the back of the passenger seat with enough force to hurt her back.
The airbag warning light remains on along with the dash indicator saying the airbag is off. Does mean all the airbags are disabled? Can this be reset? The car will be professionally repaired but I still need to drive it until I can get it repaired.
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Every time I start the truck, the Passenger Side Airbag light is on, which is saying the airbag is turned "OFF." I have to push the button to turn the light off, which turns the airbag "ON." How do I reset this to where the airbag is "ON" until I turn it "OFF?"
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My wifes 2000 chevy metro is either stalling out or bogging out . But usually happens after a drive on the highway 15 miles or so on a hot Arizona day, then say shut off at a gas station, then, go to restart it and sometimes probs starting, but not always. Then, while driving , it will be fine then stall and fall on its face. You can floor it and it won't go anywhere, but it will idle ok. If its cool outside, no issues. I am thinking O2 sensor or temp sensor. It runs real good otherwise this recent issue.
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So about 3 weeks ago, I was driving down the road at about 55 mph, on cruise control, when my car just started slowing down. I looked to see all of my dashboards lights on and I realized my car was not running. I shifted into neutral and the car started right up again, but when I pushed on the gas it just kind of stuttered and shuttered before dying again. When I came to a stop, again the car started right up, but repeated the shuttering and hesitating when I pushed on the gas and tried to get going again.
So, I repeated, but this time i just pushed very gently on the gas, getting up to between 5-10 mph before the car died again. At this point, it just stopped running completely. The engine would turn over, but would not keep running. When I got it into the shop, the mechanic said they put a fuel pressure gauge on there and the readings indicated that there was plenty of pressure, no problems the fuel pump or lines.
After further research, the mechanic said he thought it was an electrical problem, that it could be the crankshaft sensor or the ignition switch module, but he just did not really know for sure. I had him replace the crankshaft sensor, since it was the cheaper part, and it didn't fix the problem. So now I am just kind of stuck on what to do here.
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The car is a 91 Chevy Camaro RS , 3.1 V6 and a 5 speed. Mileage is approx 400K + , the odometer has never worked since purchase and showed 239K when I purchased it approx 8 years ago.
The battery croaked due to being low on water and at the same time a stalling problem began so I wonder if the battery going bad may have contributed to the stalling issue.
The battery has been replaced with a new one but the stalling issue has not been resolved by replacing the battery.
At start up the car will idle correctly, occasionally when starting the rpm's will shoot up then slowly slow to correct idle
speed and usually continue to run.
When driving car seems fine but when the clutch is pushed in when coming to a stop at a sign, light, etc the engine rpm's begin to slow from traveling r's down to what would be normal idle speed, this is when it stalls.
If I left foot the brake and keep r's up with my right foot I can prevent the car from stalling. If I (using my foot on the gas) allow the r's to slowly come down to sitting idle speed it usually will not stall.
The cat converter was removed from the car several years back so it's not a clogged exhaust problem.
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MT 2500 Where are you I've got a weird one. 99 Chevy 5.7 dully dump truck. The engine cuts out while driving at 3000rpms only. If you keep your foot in it it goes away at 3200. Does it in any gear(auto). Also, stopped and in park, it will do it at 4000rpms. Acts like a rev limiter. Fuel pressure does not change (60-62psi) when this happens, does it in open or closed loop. I disconnected the maf and no change. I've installed new cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, module(all original with 165K), no change. Runs sensational until 3K rpms.
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