Chevy 2003 :: Car Won't Start At All
Jul 20, 2015
I have a 2003 chevy venture...yesterday I went to start it and it acted like the battery was dead, but it still started. Then today, it wouldn't start at all. So I jumped it and it started. Took it to the store, and it wouldn't start again. So once again had to jump it. I brought it home and let it run for like 30 minutes. I went back out there and on the little screen it was saying security...turned it off and it wouldn't start again. But this time there was no clicking or anything.
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My van ran fine, no problems until yesterday. I started it and it ran for a few minutes then I heard it bog down 2 times ran for a few more minutes fine then stalled. Now it turns over but will not start. I can hear fuel pump, I changed fuel filter.
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A few minutes into a summer's evening drive, the engine shuts off and will not start. We've determined that there is fuel to the fuel injectors and they are clicking. There is a strong spark coming from the distributor. When there is fire, from cranking the motor, it results in a backfire in the intake manifold. As for the OBD, it's a 16 pin connector that when I shorted pins 5 and 6 (top-right pins) with a paper clip, gave all code 12s (not sure if it's OBDI or II)....
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I have a 2004 TB that won't start. I pulled out my hvac b fuse to reset that system and now my car won't start.
The lights come on but don't dim, the 4WD indicators don't come on and all I hear is a high pitch sound and nothing else. I don't hear a crank. I don't know where to start looking for a solution.
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When I turn the key over to start the vehicle, the clock resets to 1:00, the back latch clicks and the car kind of makes a grinding sound but not like a churn as if it wanted to start. I don't know if it is just a dying battery or if it would be something else but my car will not start at all.
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I have a 95 Chevy S10 pickup with the TBI motor, Z engine code, that has begun to not start on occasion. The engine cranks but does not fire at all everything else seems normal. This only seems to happen in the morning so might be cold related. If the truck starts I can drive it all day without any starting issues.
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So my Malibu overheated for the first time, and note it just won't start up..
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I have chevorlet caprice 2006 LTZ, whenever I switch off my car after running with AC on (means heat shows 50%) does not start. It simply cranks up but does not start,I try 3-4 times it starts, everything works fine . It starts perfectly in morning or after idle for long time. What stops the start, is it the fuel pump? I did computer scan but nothing detected.
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I have a 1983 chevy k-10 with a 350 and a th-350 trans. Every now and then it will start violently shaking as I'm going down the road. Almost feels like it's trying to engage into 4WD. But if I pull over and stop it will quit and i can resume driving. It was like every couple of months and only when i hit a large bump but now it's becoming more and more frequent to where i can't drive it. I've replaced the u-joints on the drive shafts, the manual lockout hubs, wheel bearing etc. I had decided it had to be the transfer case but my gut keeps saying it's the ball joints even though they feel good when you check them. I want my truck back.
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My Chevy Cobalt will not start in cold weather. I don't think bad battery is the case here because it's started in warmer temperatures. What could be wrong??
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I have a 2000 Chevy silverado. I recently was having problems with the transmittion not switching correctly. Long story short the shop told me to fix the problem I had to put in
A new transmition as well as a new computer which I did, from another Chevy. It worked for a few days then The truck was not starting and had security light on. Had alarm specialist take look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed. It was reprogrammed at merles. And was still not working. Its unable to start, starts at random once in a long while. ignition switch was changed and still gave same problem. Took to another shop they had a specialist take a look and he said the computer had to be reprogrammed again.
Also would it be possible to bypass the anti theft system by adding a remote start, or cutting some wires. I just really need to get this truck running.
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This car started to stall sputter. I replaced the ignition module and it worked for while then nothing at all but still cranks. I checked all of the fuses and every thing was working. What I have found and i think this was the whole problem. The wiring harness that goes from the ignition module to the crank sensor, the wires were twisted and frayed and most likely grounding out on the frame and making the computer to shut down. So far after replacing the wires it started right up. Have not had a chance to take it for a test run to re learn the computer because my brake line busted.
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Got done with replacing head gaskets and intake gaskets, Van started fine and I backed it out of the garage. Left it running and put down ramps and drove up on them so I could get under and connect the exhaust. Got that done and then got back in it and all it will do is crank and it will not start now. It also has a new cam shaft sensor( wire broke on old one). I can hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. It is like now there is no fire to start it. What could be wrong? What do I check? What causes it to fire? If something was connected wrong, would it have still started and then wont do anything but crank? Got dark on me and started raining so I say tomorrow is another day. I feel it is something simple.
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I've read tons of posts about the security system and passlock on the ignition...but my truck does not have a chip key, as the dealer even looked into the key issue with me. There is no chip or resistor on this thing at all.
So, with that said, I have the identical problem as the passlock system people do. The truck will start, then stop, and the security light flashes at me. That's the last thing I want flashing me at 6am when I'm trying to leave for work.
It only happens about once every 2-3 months, but I want to eliminate the problem as I have a feeling one day it's not going to start on me and then the real problems will start...
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
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I got this truck from my step father, drove it from mississippi to washington (state) with minor problems. It's been sitting in my driveway for the last 6 months and I probably drive it once a week. I loaned it to my sister-in-law and she drove it for a couple of days with no problems. She went out one morning to take it and it wouldn't start, just cranked it for a few minutes and gave up. To make a long story even longer, I though it was fuel so I checked the pump, changed the filter, drained some fuel thinking water might have gotten in, ... to no success. I then started looking at electrical. Spark was getting to at least one plug. Pulled the distributor cap and cleaned it all up, replaced all the plug wires, and then tried starting it with the same results. (Oh, by the way, no check engine light so I assume no codes).
This goes on for a couple of weeks as it's in the driveway and I only pop the hood when it's not raining (we live just outside of Seattle). The other day I have the hood open, my wife decides to check on me since she thinks I'm talking to God and is wondering why I would use that kind of language when address a diety. I ask her to jump in and crank it while I pull a plug wire to see if I'm getting spark....again. Low and behold, the truck starts right up. I jump in to see if it's throwing a code and nothing. The thing is running great. I did notice that there is a ticking coming from the engine compartment and I realize the plug wire is still disconnected so I turn it off (with much hesitation) connect the wire, go back inside to start it and the thing won't start. I'm a private pilot and they say, if you're flying along and you do something and the engine stops, undo what you just did. So, I go back out, unplug the spark plug wire, and the thing starts right up. So, I start thinking, try another plug wire. I reconnect it, try another, and it won't start. So, what I figure is that it will only run when the second to the front cylinder plug wire on the drivers side on the engine is disconnected.
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2003 Chevy Malibu 3.1 temperature gauge stopped working last night, this morning having trouble starting, no check engine light fans do turn on have heat, replaced the coolant temperature sensor but gauge still not working?
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I have a 2003 Impala which up until this past monday had a tire with a slow leak in it. On monday I had that leak repaired, well the shop said it was repaird. Then driving home last night I got the "low tire pressure light" coming on, and well figured they actually had NOT fixed the leak or I had a new one. I pulled off at a station to refill, but first checked all four tires, all four were exactly the same at 35 PSI, which is where they are suppsed to be. So my question, what could have set off the LTPL if none of the tires were low in pressure or no tire was significantly different from the others presure wise?
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I have a 2007 Chevy Malibu with around 190000 miles on it. Recently, first thing in the morning then I start driving, that car will not shift into 2nd gear for a bit. The engine will rev up the 2000 RPM and stay there. After a while it will finally shift. The fact that the engine stays revved that high for that long makes me nervous.
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My trailblazer started with the spitting and sputtering (misfiring) last week. Over 100,000 miles on it, ya, in need of a tune up. So for obvious reasons new spark plugs seemed to be the logical choice. If it wasn't the problem, it can't hurt to change them. Truck's SES light did not come on, but truck was running pretty crappy, more when it was cold than hot, but definetely a loss of power. There is also a slight exhaust leak starting, where abouts right now I haven't pinpointed, deaf in one ear so it's hard to tell where it is coming from.
So I had my brother in law install the new spark plugs. We took the old ones out and 4 and 5 cylinder plugs had oil on them. Ah great, valve cover gasket and the gaskets the spark plugs sit on (don't ask me, not a mechanic lol) need to be changed. Started with just the plugs for now. Started truck up, still had a bit of vibration on idle, like it would from an exhaust leak, but still didn't seem right . But an even more noticable loss of power when driving, truck doesn't seem to want to get above forty.
Now my SES light is flashing almost consistently unless I'm stopped (idled). It almost feels like the cat is clogged. Did smell a heavier than normal gas smell when changing out the plugs. I know that the flashing SES almost certainly means a misfire. But why would it all of a sudden come on after changing the plugs? Tomorrow I am going to my friends garage who has the scanner tool (not just the one that reads codes) to see if it is a bad coil pack and to see if there is a specific cylinder that is misfiring.
But there is something about that exhaust leak that is leading me to believe it is the culprit of my problems. Leak came first, then the misfiring. Could the cat be clogged, which blew a hole in the exhaust and cause a misfire? And the new plugs just made the misfiring worse to cause the SES light to come on? Is there anything else I should check besides a faulty coil pack and compression check (even though I should have done that when I changed the plugs, but live and learn).
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I have a 2003 Chevy Malibu LS. Occasionally, my theft system light will come on when I start my car. I usually have to wait 10 minutes until it deactivates. I don't understand why it does this!
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