Chevrolet - Tahoe :: 2008 - No Battery Power When Door Opened With Remote?
May 20, 2012
My 08 Tahoe will 'die' at odd times. Sometimes I open the door and there is no charge from the battery. This can happen between opening the door with the remote and trying to start the car. It can happen between putting the car in park and cutting it off. I have come home, dut the car off and been unable to open the doors until I remember how to do it manually. a jump will always restore the car - for a while. If I leave it alone for an hour or so,it usually will start but the clock and climate control have reset. Most recently, the alarm went off, I turned it off using my remote. I found later that the car had 'died' momentarily. I have had the car checked and rechecked. Everything seems to check out each time - battery, alternator, whatever. This stated a 18 months ago when my battery died and I got a new one. Most recently, my mechanic has changed the make of the battery and checked every connection and every component. I am now waiting to see if this happens again. Usually, it happens every 4 months +-. I am at my wits end. I do not know what to do, My mechanic does not know. He has even tried to update the computers n the car.
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My preowned ES came with a remote starter. It works great, however when the vehicle is started using the he remote, as soon as I open the door, the car turns off and I need to restart it. The model I have is Viper 5901. In the manual it says that if I use the Viper remote to unlock the doors, it should not turn the engine off.
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I was told that with remote start I would be able to start the car but when I open the door it would shut off and then it would push start. I have a 2011 ES 350. My ls gmc yukon and has no problem but it doesn't have this push button. I want to have a remote installed in my wifes car didn't think it was going to be a problem.
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The SKS on my 2010 Prius V used to open all doors when I grabbed the door handle but now it only opens the driver's door. I remember seeing somewhere in this forum that this is one of the few driver customizable options (unless it is for Gen II only) and I should be able to make the change on my own.
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2005 Chevy Malibu
When the driver side door is opened there is a clunk sound about half way through the swing. When the door is closed there is a couple clunks then a thud. The sound is coming from the front of the door.
What is causing this and does it mean big trouble soon?
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I have a 2007 Chev Tahoe. Description of Problem: Past month engine light came on. Then some days for a short time will go off. When light is on the auto start wont work. Battery has been drained so today I changed the battery and have a total electrical power system failure. Zero power to anything. Last month I put a scanner on it but i didnt save the code. It was related to a "throttle body module" i think. Have been reading about the BCM also so im at a complete loss...
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From time to time, my Tahoe gives me the "Reduced Engine Power" error, and I lose acceleration capabilities and have to pull over. After a min or 2, I can go again, but the check engine light stays on. With no rhyme or reason, the light will be on or off on the next start up. The problem may or may not happen during a short ride or may happen quite often. I have replaced the Accelerator Pedal sensor, so that is not the problem, I'm assuming.
I've been told that it is the Throttle Body that needs to be replaced, but no mechanic can confirm. They just want to replace it and the pedal. I would really like to keep this truck for a couple more years. Other than this problem, the Tahoe has been pretty good to me. Here are the codes that have been read: P1125, 1516, 2120, 2125 ....
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Our 2006 Chevy Tahoe will at times while running the speed limit (or slightly above) will suddenly without warning lose power. All the gauges remain in good ranges. This will happen without warning and not on a regular basis - sometimes going six months without happening and then happen three times within thirty minutes. The stability system warning message comes on as does the check engine light. Also the traction control warning light comes on. We can pull to the side of the road, turn the engine off for a few seconds and then it will start up again and run well with only the check engine light on. When this happens, the rpms will drop and go under 1500 and the engine will still be running, just without power.
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2008 Turbo... Is there a way to program all the doors to unlock when the drivers door is opened from the inside?
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I have a Chevy Tahoe 1999, Went to the store came out my Tahoe wouldn't start i had it towed home. My husband said the starter was clicking but wasn't getting enough power to turn the flywheel. We got a new starter put it on and it clicked just like it did when i tried to start it before. We took the new starter back and had the old one tested and it was ok so we put it back on and it still clicked like before. He said the flywheel was easy to turn, then he replaced the hot wire from the battery to the starter, now the starter don't even click.
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The power door locks on my '99 Tahoe do not always work. Most of the time they all operate except for the front passenger door. It attempts to move, maybe halfway, but doesn't lock or unlock all the way. It works fine manually. The keyfob works the same way as the door switch. About 10% of the time they all work fine including the passenger door.
I've been told they might not be getting enough voltage due to loose connections. The connections look good as far as I can tell. What should I look for on my multimeter and where should I test it?
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Sometimes (but not always!) when I turn my Prius (2008) off and open the driver door, there is a constant beep. There are no interior lights left on. I think whatever I am doing wrong might be draining the 12v battery as it keeps going flat.
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I have a 2003 Tahoe that I love but is driving me crazy with a "Reduced Engine Power" message. I am driving along and suddenly it dings at me, the message center says "reduced engine power" and I am losing speed. It goes into a "limp mode" in which I cannot accelerate, it cannot pull itself up a hill, and the engine misses badly. I can pull over, shut it off for a couple of minutes and then start it up and run again just fine until it decides to do it again.
There seems to be no rhyme or reason, one day it did it 4 times w/n the first 20 miles, then ran 100 miles w/o doing it at all. I recently took it on a trip that normally takes me 1 1/2 hours, it took 2 1/4 hrs that day because I had to pull over so many times. I was having to stop every 3-4 miles by the time I got there. My usual mechanic has completely given up, told me to trade it. I have had it to another mechanic for over a month now, 3 times he has thought it was fixed, but it wasn't. One time, I didn't even make it the 5 miles to my house before it acted up again.
One other note on this: this past trip I made, I left early in the morning and my lights were flickering high/low. . . this went on for several miles. Finally my lights quit flickering, then I lost engine power, pulled over, shut it off. When I started it back up, the lights started flickering again. The cycle seemed to continue, once the lights would settle, the engine would lose power. I took it to a parts store and had the battery and alternator checked. They said both were fine. (Had never noticed the light thing before, but I can't think of a recent trip after dark.) How I can pass along to my mechanic?
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When our 2008 Outback (75K miles) is running the garage door remote in the car will not open or close the door. New batteries in the remote, so that can't be the cause. We have to turn the car motor off, operate the remote, then start the car again. We have to follow the same procedure when getting back into the garage. This just started about a month ago and does not happen with any of the other cars in the garage when opening or closing the same door, i.e. the remotes operate with their motors running. Is it possible there is some new electrical discharge from the car that is causing this? Something unusual with the alternator? Other possible causes?
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why does it shut off radio before you open door? Can this be programmed so that when u turn engine off, radio stays on till driver door is opened? My wives Audi does this and is great for waiting at bank drive-up, or picking up someone.
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How to reset my car remote for a 2008 HHR?
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Before I changed my driver's lock module, when I removed my key and opened the door, the car would still have power to close the sunroof and windows, but now with the new module once I open the door the power's all off. I have to resort to everything closing when I lock the car (KVW100).
Why this is happening and how I can revert to being able to close the windows without having to leave the key in? Not that it's a huge issue; just felt it was a nicer convenience how it used to be.
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I have a 2011 Avalon. The power door locks will all lock with the door button and the remote key. The problem is that only the drivers door will unlock with either method, what a pain.
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Remotes suddenly will not lock/unlock doors or open trunk.Background - guy left key in ignition in 'on' position overnight. Also thunderstorm with very near lightning strike during that time.Battery dead in am, though after jump start it was not necessary to reset radio, clock, etc.Neither remote works.Checked the door lock fuse - looks OK, but did not replace it as there were no spares in the spare slots.Where else to look for the problem?
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My father recently purchased a 2012 Prius 3. To reduce his insurance premiums, he purchased an alarm system, which the dealer installed for him a few days after he first took the car off the lot. Now, when unlocking or locking the car from the driver's door handle sensor or via the remote, it both chirps (not the horn) and briefly sounds the horn twice or once, depending on whether you are unlocking or locking.
The problem is that when the car is unlocked from the trunk or the passenger door (using the door handle sensor with the key in pocket), this does not disarm the alarm, and the alarm will sound when the door is opened. The alarm is only disarmed when using the remote's unlock button or using the Smart Key sensor at the driver's door. One of the major differences between the 3 and 2 trims is that the 3 has Smart Key capability on the front doors and the trunk, rather than just the driver's door but the alarm has negated this benefit, as opening the trunk or passenger door without first unlocking from the driver's door or remote causes the alarm to sound.
Is this normal for a Toyota-installed alarm?
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I have a 2008 prius and I realized today that the driver side rear door will not lock. All the other doors lock except the rear driver side door. I tried locking it using the remote, but it didn't lock. I tried locking it with the lock button in the car by the driver which didn't work. When i try to push the lever by the door handle, it doesn't move.
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