Chevrolet - Trailblazer :: 2005 - Transmission Slipping Into Neutral Usually When Slowing Down
Aug 2, 2011
We own a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer, 8 cyl, 150K miles. Since July 11, the transmission has been slipping into neutral, usually when slowing down. This happens anywhere, and usually in slow (so far) traffic. My husband has been able to get the car to drive either in D3, or has been able to get it back into Drive, and the car just drives off like nothing happened. This usually takes a few minutes of turning it off and on, and shifting gears. Today he drove it in AWD, and it was fine (so far). He normally drives it in 4WD. They have been unable to duplicate this problem and, because there aren't any codes, cannot tell us what's going on. Needless to say, I've had it.
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When I put my 2002 TrailBlazer into 4WD, it seems normal as long as I have my foot on the gas, but when I am "coasting" or just slowing down, the car feels like something is dragging on the engine is dragging--sort of like when one tries to drive with the parking brake engaged, or like when you shift to a lower gear in a car with a manual transmission and it slows the engine down. I don't recall this being a "feature" I've had before.
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Chevy trailblazer 2007
Between 1,000 and 2,000 rpm (only 20% of the time) I hear, and feel, a clunk that seems to emanate somewhere near / behind the driver seat. The error code (an 834 ? possibly but I forget exactly...but def in the 800 series) says " transmission component slipping".
Trans oil full, and clear.
The clunk sound happens on any terrain, and is very random. And going up-hill does not bring it on. The clunk's been happening for about 2,000 miles.
The orig transmission was replaced 15,000 miles ago.With a used one. Total mileage on car now 75,000.
Mechanics give varied explanations, and prognoses (none are good) but no one knows what's going on for sure.
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I have a relative that does this allot i didn't think was a good idea he said it don't hurt anything, and get better millage. Can this hurt anything, or actually improve mileage other than maybe coasting with it in gear? 2014 ram ....
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Car has 67k. It did this before when the car was under 50k. took it in , got it documented and they could find nothing. Last 3 days when I punch on the freeway to pass someone, the car goes in to neutral. Manually down shifting does not work. I had to pull to the side of the freeway today for a few minutes before it would engage. Felt like I was in a very dangerous situation.
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I have an 06 sonata 4 cyl automatic.Today the transmission was slipping in first gear like the car was revving in neutral.Then after restarting the car it was completely normal. Code P0731 showed up.
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I have a 2005 v-6 and when I first start my car, its makes a real high pitch whining sound that will last for about 10 sec. before it starts to whine down.Then after that, its ok. It will not make any noise after that when I start it unless it sits for any length of time (6 to 8 hrs.) What might be the problem and If Its something I could fix myself?
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I recently bought a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS EXT 4.2l 6cyl with about 129k miles on it. The vehicle is excellent condition and has no leaks on the engine or transmission. I took it for a test drive before buying for about 20min and no issues with it shift or rough idling.
After having the SUV for about a week, I noticed that it has a slight rough idle at red lights and gets a little worse when the AC is on. Twice now in the past week the SUV begins to sputter at the red light and then shuts off. It doesn't do this every time and I have noticed it happens more when the fuel gauge is in between the quarter tank E line. My father in-law is having a similar issue with his 2003 Trailblazer, same engine and make and model.
I should also mention that no check engine light comes on or leave an ERR code.
Throttle body needs to be cleaned: We have done this on my father in-laws and didn't fix the issue.
Replaced the spark plugs: didn't solve the issue
Read that it could possibly be the APPS sensor under the gas pedal: Haven't replaced this yet
Tighten or replace gas cap: Have done this, didn't fix
Have the idle reprogrammed: Have not done yet.
Could possibly be a fuel pump issue.
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2005 Chevy Trailblazer. Whenever the temperature goes below freezing, the 4x4 selector switch does not work. After the car warms up (10 min), I need to turn it off and then restart it in order for the switch to work. I tried changing the selctor switch, that did not work. Is there some sort of solenoid or actuator that is freezing up?
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I have a 2005 chevy trailblazer that vibrates. Gets worse when air conditioner is on. I've put new tires, new front end alignment, new spark plugs, changed my harmonic balancer. My motor mounts are fine. My engine light is not on so i cannot figure it out.
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My daughter drives my old 2000 Chevy Blazer with a reconditioned transmission I paid for in Aug 2010. The new (rebuilt) transmission is now slipping. Could this be as simple as a fuse (electrical signal issue) or not having enough transmission fluid?
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I have a 1994 Chevrolet S10 pick up truck, with two wheel drive and a automatic transmission. I'm having trouble getting the truck go from drive to reverse. It feels like it is in neutral when it should be reversing. I also just put new brakes on it and they are starting to squeak. So what do you think is wrong with it and how much do you think it will cost to fix it?
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1986 S10 blazer automatic transmission won't go into reverse OR neutral! It goes fwd in both reverse and neutral. It goes into park just fine. The fluid is full and not burnt. It will drive forward when in reverse and in neutral. I turned the engine off and checked neutral, it was not in gear but tried to go forward as soon as I started the engine. I have never seen this!
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2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
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I have a 2005 Cavalier (60,000 miles) that's been having some transmission slipping in the cold weather. As the weather has warmed up, the issue has lessened but not quite gone away. We added a little transmission fluid, but I haven't yet had a chance to replace the fluid/filter. The check engine light has been on in my car since I've owned it... the shop I bought it from replaced the solenoid, but the code still hung around. Everything I've googled tells me that the issue could be the wiring or could be the solenoid needing replacing. My real question is... how soon do I need to act on this? p0741 p2761
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Thought my transmission was slipping. So I changed the tanny. been driving it for a few days and now it doing the same thing. Is it possible that it a different problem with the same symptoms?
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2005 Escape CD4E gone...157,000 miles. Previous owner said it was slipping when shifting to 3rd. During test drive the vehicle would hardly move. Only code was for the output shaft. There were metal shavings on the sensor magnet as well as the magnetic drain plug. The drivetrain is now out of the vehicle.
Questions:
1. After a bit of research it seems like there are a lot of tweaks that should be done during a rebuild to make this tranny live longer. Is there any point to having a local trans shop try to rebuild it?
2. Given the reputation of this trans I assume it makes no sense to look at used ones, correct?
3. Any other options?
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My 2005 2X4 4.6L 120,000K tranny is going out. I think I have the 4R70E and it's slipping in first gear. If i'm easy on the throttle, once it hits second, it's perfect. Tried flushing, changed plugs didn't work. I did not change the COPs. Is this the torque converter, pump or clutches? Can it be repaired?
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2005 F-150 5.4L RWD
I purchased this truck about 2 years ago, with about 70k miles. Previous owner had transmission work done, but I'm not sure if it was a rebuild, new, or refurbished. About 8 months ago I experienced hesitation, and frequent stalling when coming to a stop. Pulled the engine codes, and they said it was throttle body related. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body assembly inside, with the battery disconnected, went through the idle re-learn process, and it drove fine for a few days. Took it into the shop, and they did a tune up and replaced several plugs and coils. Since then, it's run great.
A couple of weeks ago, a whining/buzzing noise was coming from the engine compartment, getting much louder as RPMs increased. Got the oil changed a week ago (it was overdue), and the tech at the quick lube shop said the noise was from the drive pulley(s), and that they should be replaced.
Today, I was waiting for the parking lot at work to open, sitting in park. I quickly switched to Drive, and the trans didn't seem to engage (Auto Trans). The engine revved, I let off the gas, and it then engaged and I scooted into a parking spot. After work, on the way home, there were similar issues at the beginning of the drive, mainly when slowing down/stopping/down-shifting. Most of the drive was on hwy, and I managed to get by okay going around 60 mph, with some spikes in RPM's occasionally when I would accelerate (no Tach, so I'm going by sound). Half way home on the high way, the O/D Off light starting quickly blinking, and the odometer screen read "TRANS FAULT". I managed to make it off of the highway, and stopped at the first red light, where the engine stalled. Turned it back on, put it in gear, and it drove fine for about 5-10 minutes on back roads, with no lights/notices. The last 2 miles home I experienced a lot of slipping, and high revs. When I backed into my parking spot, there was noticeable leaking... Trans fluid was leaking fairly quickly. I hadn't noticed any trans fluid leaking before today... I went out to run the engine and take a short trip to warm up the fluid to get a reading, but it wouldn't engage in Forward or Reverse at all. Pulled the dipstick out, while "cold", and there was nothing... I'm assuming that it's drained drastically, and is extremely low or gone.
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My daughter just gave me her 2003 TB, about 180,000 miles. She never serviced the tranny but changed the motor oil religiously. She went to take it out one day and it wouldn't shift out of 1st. There was no warning, such as, sluggish shifting, hard shifting, slipping.
I dropped the pan, (no metal shavings just some grey slimy gunk) changed the 2 shift solenoids, filter and fluid. Now the TB has first and second but acts like it goes to neutral in third (no third). Before I give up on this tranny I was wondering if there is anything else I should look at: vacuum leak, known electrical issues with the tranny, PCM. It does not set any codes.
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My Neon tranny has been acting up lately with the cold weather. When I first put it in gear, if I do not keep it at a near idle sometimes the transmission will go into a total neutral mode. You have to just stop, wait a minute or two, and then begin to take off very slowly.
Once I get couple blocks it works fine. The temps have been in the 30's lately. Will get colder. I have been letting it warm up for about 5 mins before I drive it. I think it may work more if I leave it run longer, maybe 10 mins. The fluid level is full.
Could it have something to do with the fluid being cold? If so, would letting it idle for a very long time, 10 - 15 mins solve this problem? What is causing this? What can be done?
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