I have a 2005 chevy trailblazer that vibrates. Gets worse when air conditioner is on. I've put new tires, new front end alignment, new spark plugs, changed my harmonic balancer. My motor mounts are fine. My engine light is not on so i cannot figure it out.
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2005 Nissan Frontier that has a roar and vibration that keeps getting worse over time. It happens as long as the car is rolling, but is the loudest at around 35 and 65 mph. From the driver seat is does sound like it's coming from the front passenger side. A few months ago I was driving across a curvy road and when I got home I could smell hot brakes. I checked, and the front passenger side caliper was stuck. I rebuilt the caliper, and that seemed to free up the wheel, but didn't fix the roar. I drove a couple more weeks and found the caliper stuck again. So this time I replaced it. The wheel has been fine since, but the roar is still present. After a while I figured it was a bad wheel bearing and replaced that too. But, that didn't work. I've also taken it to a shop and had them check the alignment, to which they said it was fine. I'm still racking my brain trying to figure this out.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 chevy Trailblazer that when you put it into drive there is a vibration.It does not do this in park or neutral. I have checked the engine mounts and transmission mount, and they look good. The vehicle has a little over 118,000 miles on it and the engine runs and drives great except for this vibration that i do not know where it id coming from. What may be my problem?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer. I have had 4 of these vehicles and have been very pleased. This latest one has 61000 miles and occasionally has a very strange vibration at speeds above 60 mph. It only happens occasionally and most often occurs at these higher speeds and worsens with increased speed (of 70-73 mph). The vibration is so alarming, that I will press my brakes to slow down, because it feels like the vehicle is starting to lose control. The problem is that when I press the brakes, the vibration intensifies about 3-4 fold! It feel as if the wheels are going to come off. It's a very frightening feeling. I have taken it to the shop and no one seems to know what it is. The tires are fine. Brakes are fine. Interestingly enough, if I lower the speed to 50-55 mph, the vibration lessens and eventually completely goes away.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 v-6 and when I first start my car, its makes a real high pitch whining sound that will last for about 10 sec. before it starts to whine down.Then after that, its ok. It will not make any noise after that when I start it unless it sits for any length of time (6 to 8 hrs.) What might be the problem and If Its something I could fix myself?
View 1 RepliesI recently bought a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer LS EXT 4.2l 6cyl with about 129k miles on it. The vehicle is excellent condition and has no leaks on the engine or transmission. I took it for a test drive before buying for about 20min and no issues with it shift or rough idling.
After having the SUV for about a week, I noticed that it has a slight rough idle at red lights and gets a little worse when the AC is on. Twice now in the past week the SUV begins to sputter at the red light and then shuts off. It doesn't do this every time and I have noticed it happens more when the fuel gauge is in between the quarter tank E line. My father in-law is having a similar issue with his 2003 Trailblazer, same engine and make and model.
I should also mention that no check engine light comes on or leave an ERR code.
Throttle body needs to be cleaned: We have done this on my father in-laws and didn't fix the issue.
Replaced the spark plugs: didn't solve the issue
Read that it could possibly be the APPS sensor under the gas pedal: Haven't replaced this yet
Tighten or replace gas cap: Have done this, didn't fix
Have the idle reprogrammed: Have not done yet.
Could possibly be a fuel pump issue.
2005 Chevy Trailblazer. Whenever the temperature goes below freezing, the 4x4 selector switch does not work. After the car warms up (10 min), I need to turn it off and then restart it in order for the switch to work. I tried changing the selctor switch, that did not work. Is there some sort of solenoid or actuator that is freezing up?
View 2 RepliesWe own a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer, 8 cyl, 150K miles. Since July 11, the transmission has been slipping into neutral, usually when slowing down. This happens anywhere, and usually in slow (so far) traffic. My husband has been able to get the car to drive either in D3, or has been able to get it back into Drive, and the car just drives off like nothing happened. This usually takes a few minutes of turning it off and on, and shifting gears. Today he drove it in AWD, and it was fine (so far). He normally drives it in 4WD. They have been unable to duplicate this problem and, because there aren't any codes, cannot tell us what's going on. Needless to say, I've had it.
View 11 RepliesI started noticing a vibration at 65-70mph that gets worse if I go faster. I got the tires balanced and rotated but vibration is still there. Wondering if it could be the trans or a U-joint.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2013 es350 with ~24k miles. Their is an annoying vibration when the A/C is turned on when the car is stopped. The car has a very minor slight vibration at all times that gets a little worse when in 'D' gear at idle. However once the A/C is turned on i can feel the wheel, seats and center console vibrate, especially while in the 'D' gear. To elaborate i can feel it around the car and easily notice the vibration. As soon as i turn the A/C off the vibration goes away and is back to normal. I understand that the A/C puts a strain on the car.
View 9 RepliesAt first I thought it was a vacuum that was causing all of this.I was getting a (small leak) code I replaced the vac tubes and the code still came back. But that is not the main problem.I had two problems at the same time I just didn't know it. A vac leak wold not make it run this bad. I had just recently put in new plugs and found one plug loose. It was easy to take out and didn't need to be broken free. The plug was fouled out bad (black) the other 4 were good. It must have been the loose plug all a long that was giving me problems.
I drove the truck a while before I checked the plugs,I had no clue it was loose. When the plug job was done,it ran well (because engine was warm) the next day with a cold start it ran bad,real rough. I was thinking that the loose fouled plug caused the coil pack to over load and go bad.. Now when the weather is wet it makes it way worse. At least when it is dry I can drive it. Do you think the coil packs could be the problem creating the missing and rough idle??
There is only 70k on the truck I bought it new in 2002....
I have been trying to chase down a whirling noise that follows vehicle speed since I bought the truck in my sig in Oct. The noise happens whether or not the hubs are free or locked so I don't think it is the front needle bearings. I just changed the transfer case fluid over to Mobile 1 Syn. and there was no change in the noise. I also changed the front pads, rotors, slide pins and calipers a few weeks ago and that didn't have an effect on the noise either. Today I took the truck for a ride and I'm not sure but it seems almost like the noise is a bit louder! And I noticed that if I hit the brakes firmly, harder than a normal stop the noise gets significantly quieter and if I release them again the noise goes right back to normal. This has got me stumped...
Along with this noise, I have a vibration on the freeway that gets worse around 55 and lets off around 61. Its worse at some speeds and better at others. Thinking the two were related I pulled the rear drive shaft and checked the u-joints and the carrier bearing for play. The carrier bearing doesn't have any real play but there is quite a bit of slop, ability to turn back and forth, where the driveshaft comes out of the transfer case. All but one of the u-joint cups were fine. The bad one isn't even too bad just the rubber seal around it is a little off, there is still grease in it and the needle bearings seem fine.
i have a 2005 mazda tribute v6. it has been knocking for about a year slowly geting worse. no check engine lite on, so i think it may be the egr valve. just wonder how to check it.
View 7 RepliesThis started several months ago. I can feel it in steering wheel & gas pedal. I thought it was the tires so I put 2 new tires on front, but no change.Tires had no unusual wear. Happens at any speed, worse around curves, left or right. Worse when temp is colder, 55 degrees, better at 75 degrees. Not affected by braking or in coasting neutral. No problem with steering or pulling.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2005 grand am se, (v6) this engine rattle has been going on for a while now (6 months+) the rattle really hasn't gotten any worse in that time, I uploaded a video to youtube as I'm kind of stumped as to what it could be, to me it almost sounds like something is lose..haha or maybe that's just wishful thinking, it would definitely be great if it weren't the engine itself making that noise.
View 9 RepliesMy air conditioner gives off a bad smell; my son, who lives distant and is a mechanic, told me that if the drain gets plugged that will cause a moldy (or other) buildup. When he visited, he said he could not locate the drain hose. Where can I find out where the drain hose is? Then I could probably unplug it myself. It is a 2007 HHR SW.
View 3 RepliesI changed my plugs recently in my 2004 Chevrolet TrailBlazer 4.2l I6 with the coil on plug setup, and now it is misfiring and hesitating when I hit the gas. All the spark plugs have the proper gap and torqued down properly. I tried tightening down the ignition coils and on one I snapped the bolt. Of course my truck is staying parked until I replace the part which I have to order online. The only thing I can think of as far as the misfiring is not having a proper seat with the coils, my question is, how to get a better seating or if there are any other possible issues I could have over looked at all?
View 9 RepliesI know there are tons of threads on this and ive spent hours reading through them. but there are a few differences to mine.
2005 F350 6.0l regular cab long box. 4" lift on Duratec 33". Wheels balanced, driveshafts balanced, all u-joints checked and 1 was replaced (made no noticeable difference), all new brakes and rotors recently(due to wear)
When im not towing, vibration is noticeable between 60-65, but its only slight and i can live with it. Its felt in the seat and not the wheel.
There is also a very low grinding/pulsing feeling that happens as i am slowing down from highway speeds starting at around 10 mph until I completely stop. Its not the brakes and feels driveline to me. Can only be felt at these very low speeds while decelerating/coasting. Feel it in the seat and not the wheel. Not the end of the world but i have a feeling its related to my high speed issues. It is not felt on acceleration and I don't feel it when I am moving around parking lots/etc. ONLY when decelerating from highway speeds.
When I am towing the vibration randomly gets really bad right around 65mph the whole truck shakes and its very uncomfortable. It doesn't matter if I am on the gas or not, hill or no hill. If i slow down to 60 it goes away. It is very rhythmic with road speed (3 pulses with a slight pause)
Been doing a lot more towing lately and its bugging me. I keep falling back on tires, but not quite ready to bite the bullet on new tires as the ones on it still have tons of life left.
My 2013 Chevy Equinox has 30,000 miles. When the car runs with the air conditioner on, it has a whining sound that goes off when the A.C. is turned off. I have taken it to my local dealer several times, and they say that the whining is normal for this vehicle. They also say that Chevrolet will not authorize a repair under warranty for this problem.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 trailblazer that the ac/heater doesn't always come on. When it does come on it wont stop blowing until the battery dies.
View 2 RepliesThe air conditioning in my 2002 Chevy Trailblazer works but never gets really cold. What is the best course of action to get it working better? A do it yourself kit or an auto repair shop?
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