Chevrolet - Tracker :: Powering Off After Replaced AC Compressor
Aug 19, 2011
my 2002 Chevy Tracker has run faithfully for the last 5-6 years. a few things have come up recently that have needed to be replaced, but nothing huge. after my AC compressor was replaced, my car started powering off in the middle of driving (not while revving engine standing still). mostly on cold starts, but now more frequently. mechanic swears it has nothing to do with AC compressor.
But he is checking drive train today. He has changed the tranny fluid, fuel filter, cleaned the gas tank, cleaned the throttle body (IAC motor), cleaned the mass airflow filter sensor, checked the battery voltage in case of an alternator problem. he has scanned the vehicle while driving and sitting still several times and no codes come up.
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2003 Chevy Tracker 4 cylinder. Engine rebuilt and cannot get lifters to quiet down. Replaced 3 times. Bent valves on first install.
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1994 geo tracker... I'm trying to get my A/C working, but I'm running into an electrical issue somewhere. The relays for the condenser fan and compressor are not activating, even though they are getting 12V when I switch on the A/C. I can run a jumper across where the relay would switch and both turn on and my A/C is cold, but it won't do it without the jumper. I've traced back from my battery to the A/C and checked my dual pressure switch, I'm slowly trying to pick out wires which may have fried.
Both relays work when connected to the battery alone. If I jump the 12V and ground on the harness for the compressor and the harness for the condenser fan, they kick on and A/C is cold. Fuses are good, dual pressure switch is good? It's almost like the relays aren't getting enough current to activate, one of them the switching signal reads only 4 V which is too low, that's for the fan. The compressor reads 12V though on the switch. When back probing them with the relay connected I only read 0.25 V, I don't know if that matters or not.
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My 2000 Chevy Tracker will not go into reverse. Had tranmission drained and cleaned. Still won't go into reverse. Does this model have a separate reverse cable?
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My 2002 Chevy Tracker recently has been running poorly after consuming a 1/4 tank of gas. The check engine light comes on the scan tool reports P0171 and P0174 bank 1 and 2 lean(it's a 2.5 liter V-6). If I remove and replace the gas cap it runs better but not perfect. Once I use another 1/4 tank the symptoms return. I have noticed the cap is hard to remove lately. This has been going on for two weeks It's been to 2 garages one of them told me my catalytic converters are plugged up and wanted 2500 to fix .
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I have a 98 Chevy Tracker 1.6 auto. My OBD reader shows engine load @ 25% in park at idle. What would cause this.
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2003 Chevy Tracker (same as Suzuki Gran Vitara) v6 2.5L
For about a year, it has had belt squeal on starting, which lasts about 5 minutes..it's louder when AC was on..would go away with higher RPMs. Once the car was warmed though, no squeal. Ac has been working very well and blowing cold whole time. Finally it around to replacing belt, which was a difficult.
Tightened with an idler pulley type system(not spring loaded). Started it up, squealed a little on start, but went away..turned on AC and the squeal is horribly loud now and constant..high rpms only make it louder. Noticed that clutch engages fine, but spins inconsistently..like we'll the belt is slipping. It spins slow, fast, slow..etc. I can't tighten anymore as the tightening bolt is at the end of the channel, don't want to strip it. Also noted that it is about a bolt head width more tight than its previous position.
Surely changing the belt wouldn't cause the clutch to bite it would it?
Other notes...drives great when ac is not on. This is an acc only belt..ac,idler,power steering. Also, during the repair, antifreeze got on the pulleys..I cleaned them all around with generous spray of brake cleaner..they look clean.
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The problem started several months ago. At first it would only happen once in a while and would only last about 5 mins. The first time it happened I had it towed to my shop and it ran fine when it got there. Go figure. They told me they couldn't diagnose it if it wasn't acting up while they had it. Makes sense. But it never does it when I'm there for routine maintenance. Now it's doing it for twenty minutes at a crack. It's usually fine around town unless I get stuck in stop and go traffic. When it usually acts up is when I get on the road between work and home.
Every time I stop for gas I have to wait for it to decide it wants to start again. All of this is putting heavy wear on my starter. I changed the oxygen sensor (position no. 01), because that was the only error code that showed up. That didn't fix it. My mechanic says he thinks the next best step might be the cam and/or crank sensor. If not that, then he thinks we should change out the brain. Somebody else said it might be the fuel pump goin out. because I travel too far for work and I can't afford to fix things that probably won't solve the problem.
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For 8 or 9 months now the dash lights and headlights on my 2001Chevy Tracker are dimming (more like flickering but they don't go completely out). It is not the alternator - it has been checked. For a period of 4 orso months in between the beginning of this and now - the dimming stopped and now it's back. The only thing I can correlate to the dimming stopping was I had to have my car jumped because I left the headlights on and the dimming seemed to stop for the long period of time.
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98 tracker with 5 speed manual transmission has new clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and shit cable. strictly mechanical clutch mechanism drive for about 30 minutes and clutch goes away and unable to shift gears. let it sit overnight will work until about 30 minutes of drive time when everything has a chance to heat up...
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I'm having trouble with the headlights on my 2003 Chevy Tracker. When it's light out, my headlights come on automatically when I release the parking brake, but turn off if I turn the switch that would normally turn them on. When it is dark out, or I drive under a bridge etc, they turn off and I can't manually turn them on. I can "flash" my headlights, but if I turn them on as if to leave them on, they don't turn on. This problem started about the same time that my AC blower stopped working, so I replaced the blower motor resistor and all fuses (I've heard that the blower motor resistor is also involved with the headlights). This fixed the AC, but had no effect on the headlights.
I can trick the lights into turning on at night only by shining a bright light directly on the sensor - they turn back off as soon as I remove the light. I took it to Pep Boys for a basic electrical diagnostic to see if I might be missing something silly, but once I described the problem they wouldn't even bother - told me to take it to the dealer and have the body regulator module reprogrammed.
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I drive a '99 Chevy Tracker with the 2Liter engine, a 5 speed manual transmission and 110K mi. on it. When I lift my foot from the throttle pedal in preparing to shift gears the engine takes a very long time to reduce it's RPM. This is a problem, when up shifting, as the transmission is spinning too fast for smooth gear engagement.
The engine idles normally under all other circumstances. It is only slow to decelerate whenever I lift my foot from the throttle pedal. This makes up shifting very slow and/or causes the gears to sometimes grind slightly.
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I have an '02 Tracker and I've noticed if I have several accessories running, that my engine will start to sputter and come to the verge of stalling when I come to a stop. It happens if I have the heat/air and radio or charging my phone on together. What is the cause and/or remedy for this? I've changed the alternator a few yrs. back, but it still continued.
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After the A/C Compressor was replaced anc charged, the mechanic said that it was still not working. He checked for the ground " and was receiving power ?.. He was thinking I made now need to take it to a Honda dealership and maybe there is a code they need to enter. He does not know if the Compressor or Clutch may have overheated something to shutdown to protect the ECM
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I have 2007 PT Cruiser. The air condition blows hot air. I replaced the compressor, added freon. It was back to blowing hot air within days. I replaced the compressor with another brand new compressor and again after a few days, hot air. I took it to another person today and again, your compressor is leaking freon and it needs to be replaced. I refuse to buy another compressor, what else could be the problem. I live in Texas and need air condition in my cruiser.
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My AC compressor failed so I replaced it.
I put in 1 can of R134, and I don't see the compressor cycling.
How do I remove the connector to the accumulator so I can jump it and force the AC to run.
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2 weeks ago my Camry 2008 failed the oil consumption test, so toyota fixed the engine. Few days after I got my car, I turned on the A/C but I was surprised that the compressor wont work. Totally dead.
I took the car to toyota and they check it out, they said they dont know whats wrong with compressor and I need to replace it for 1200$!!! IT WAS NOT A FREON PROBLEM, They claim that electricity is being delivered to the compressor but its just not working.
Is it possible that they messed up my compressor while fixing the engine? Also, I really don't want to fix it for that much, any thoughts where to fix it cheaper?
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Had A/C go out while in Vegas almost 2 weeks ago. Dealer said compressor dead, replaced at my dealer back home, now having loss of power issue's, poor acceleration, 29mpg, & bad smell like transmission fluid or catalytic converter... Problems noticed after picked up car, then went away, now back.. No codes on the scantool, no lights etc.
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The 2005 Prius I bought has had the AC compressor replaced 3 times in about 6 months with new toyota parts, the repair shop told the man I bought the car from not to bring it back there anymore they cant find the problem and toyota will not replace the compressor again for free...I guess 2 replacements is their limit.
The AC blows warm and Im not sure how to tell if the compressor is working or not, the inside fan works on all speeds, the fan by the radiator comes on but is VERY loud....of course I don't leave it on, only for testing to try to find the problem.
Where to look or why this car is burning up compressors.
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Ever since the air cond compressor Burned up I replaced it now the keyless entry quit working along with the radio really every thing quit till I put the key in the ignition and once the key is in the ignition the radio still doesn't work.
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I am completely lost now, spent alot of time trying to get the pulley off to replace the bearing, finally got that done, turned on the car, and it dies almost instantly unless i have my foot on the gas.... it runs really rough until i rev it up to at least 2K.
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