Chevrolet - Tracker :: 2003 - Headlights Come On Automatically While Parking Brake Released?
Sep 18, 2015
I'm having trouble with the headlights on my 2003 Chevy Tracker. When it's light out, my headlights come on automatically when I release the parking brake, but turn off if I turn the switch that would normally turn them on. When it is dark out, or I drive under a bridge etc, they turn off and I can't manually turn them on. I can "flash" my headlights, but if I turn them on as if to leave them on, they don't turn on. This problem started about the same time that my AC blower stopped working, so I replaced the blower motor resistor and all fuses (I've heard that the blower motor resistor is also involved with the headlights). This fixed the AC, but had no effect on the headlights.
I can trick the lights into turning on at night only by shining a bright light directly on the sensor - they turn back off as soon as I remove the light. I took it to Pep Boys for a basic electrical diagnostic to see if I might be missing something silly, but once I described the problem they wouldn't even bother - told me to take it to the dealer and have the body regulator module reprogrammed.
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Had my car parked outside of work for about 12 hours yesterday, and in the NYC cold front, the parking break must have stuck on slightly. When I started to move, despite the fact I'd released the parking break, I received a warning in the MFI that said PARKING BREAK FAILURE TO RELEASE. I pulled the handle again and heard it pop just a little more off. Everything worked great after that. If I hadn't received the alert I probably would have driven off with it on. I'd probably have noticed the hesitation and checked the break again, but the alert was useful. Some of the warnings in the MFI can appear to be a pain at times, but it's amazing how thorough a job VW has done monitoring the cars systems and giving real time information if something doesn't work. You just have to make sure you don't get info overload from it all!!
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For 8 or 9 months now the dash lights and headlights on my 2001Chevy Tracker are dimming (more like flickering but they don't go completely out). It is not the alternator - it has been checked. For a period of 4 orso months in between the beginning of this and now - the dimming stopped and now it's back. The only thing I can correlate to the dimming stopping was I had to have my car jumped because I left the headlights on and the dimming seemed to stop for the long period of time.
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My brother-in-law has an '04 with ~160K miles that we're potentially interested in picking up from him. It's been sitting for awhile with the parking brake on. When going to try it out today I released the parking brake (it seemed to release okay) but both rear wheels were stuck. I drove it a few feet and the left rear freed up but the right rear would not budge (multiple attempts.) It was dragging on their driveway and I could barely get the car back out of the way.
Looking for (videos, manual, etc.) how the parking brake works? Is there an external adjustment I can reach or some place to try to release the cable? We had an '06 that our daughter now drives but I've never had any issues with rear brakes in 200+K miles on that car.
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Ok when I stop the car and get out I can hear what sounds like the parking brake engaging even though I have not pushed the button ( i am scared to death of the button) and sometimes when I start out I hear a grinding noise, that happens when i apply the brakes but then goes away??
Is it supposed to be this way? 11K miles on the car and the grinding noise doesn't happen alll the time like it was the brakes or rotors and they look fine, the pads that is from looking at them??
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Vehicle is a 94 Suburban. The front brakes were done approximately 14K miles ago. Rear about 10K miles ago. Ever since the front brake job (new rotors, pads) there has been a sound, sort of like spring tension being released whenever I (quickly) release the brake pedal. I think I notice it now more than ever because I don't have working ac and the windows are usually down. The thing is, if I slowly release the pedal I hear nothing. When it does happen it is definitely coming from the front and is more predominant (I think) on the right side. So far I have yet to hear this sound coming from any other vehicle stopped beside me in traffic so something must be out of whack.
I mentioned this to the mechanic who did the brakes (only shortly thereafter) and he checked it out and said nothing was amiss. Recently I had new tires installed so I asked the (different) mechanic to check the brakes again (front and rear). Apart from cleaning out the drums and a minor adjustment on the rear they said everything was good. Now I've never had any issues with stopping and I've had a few hard braking episodes without incident but this snapping noise for want of a better description is driving me nuts. One final observation: I cannot get the 'sound' to occur when I am sitting in Park and depress and then quickly release the brake pedal.
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2003 Chevy Tracker 4 cylinder. Engine rebuilt and cannot get lifters to quiet down. Replaced 3 times. Bent valves on first install.
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My parking brake has automatically set itself and then disengaged when turning off the car about two times in the last month. I have never had it do this before. Should I be worried?
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Just got a 2016 V6 Lux. I have a question cerning the electric parking brake.
I noticed that at times when I slowly park into a parking space with an obstacle (such as a wall or another car in front), the electric parking brake would engage automatically. Is this an issue or a feature?
To me, this is annoying since sometimes the electric parking brake would engage when I am not ready to fully stop the car yet (need to park further in). It seems that it is related to the parking sensors.
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My 2000 Chevy Tracker will not go into reverse. Had tranmission drained and cleaned. Still won't go into reverse. Does this model have a separate reverse cable?
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my 2002 Chevy Tracker has run faithfully for the last 5-6 years. a few things have come up recently that have needed to be replaced, but nothing huge. after my AC compressor was replaced, my car started powering off in the middle of driving (not while revving engine standing still). mostly on cold starts, but now more frequently. mechanic swears it has nothing to do with AC compressor.
But he is checking drive train today. He has changed the tranny fluid, fuel filter, cleaned the gas tank, cleaned the throttle body (IAC motor), cleaned the mass airflow filter sensor, checked the battery voltage in case of an alternator problem. he has scanned the vehicle while driving and sitting still several times and no codes come up.
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How do I adjust the parking brake on my 2001 Suburban? It is a 2wd 1500 model.
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My 2002 Chevy Tracker recently has been running poorly after consuming a 1/4 tank of gas. The check engine light comes on the scan tool reports P0171 and P0174 bank 1 and 2 lean(it's a 2.5 liter V-6). If I remove and replace the gas cap it runs better but not perfect. Once I use another 1/4 tank the symptoms return. I have noticed the cap is hard to remove lately. This has been going on for two weeks It's been to 2 garages one of them told me my catalytic converters are plugged up and wanted 2500 to fix .
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I have a 98 Chevy Tracker 1.6 auto. My OBD reader shows engine load @ 25% in park at idle. What would cause this.
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2003 Chevy Tracker (same as Suzuki Gran Vitara) v6 2.5L
For about a year, it has had belt squeal on starting, which lasts about 5 minutes..it's louder when AC was on..would go away with higher RPMs. Once the car was warmed though, no squeal. Ac has been working very well and blowing cold whole time. Finally it around to replacing belt, which was a difficult.
Tightened with an idler pulley type system(not spring loaded). Started it up, squealed a little on start, but went away..turned on AC and the squeal is horribly loud now and constant..high rpms only make it louder. Noticed that clutch engages fine, but spins inconsistently..like we'll the belt is slipping. It spins slow, fast, slow..etc. I can't tighten anymore as the tightening bolt is at the end of the channel, don't want to strip it. Also noted that it is about a bolt head width more tight than its previous position.
Surely changing the belt wouldn't cause the clutch to bite it would it?
Other notes...drives great when ac is not on. This is an acc only belt..ac,idler,power steering. Also, during the repair, antifreeze got on the pulleys..I cleaned them all around with generous spray of brake cleaner..they look clean.
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The problem started several months ago. At first it would only happen once in a while and would only last about 5 mins. The first time it happened I had it towed to my shop and it ran fine when it got there. Go figure. They told me they couldn't diagnose it if it wasn't acting up while they had it. Makes sense. But it never does it when I'm there for routine maintenance. Now it's doing it for twenty minutes at a crack. It's usually fine around town unless I get stuck in stop and go traffic. When it usually acts up is when I get on the road between work and home.
Every time I stop for gas I have to wait for it to decide it wants to start again. All of this is putting heavy wear on my starter. I changed the oxygen sensor (position no. 01), because that was the only error code that showed up. That didn't fix it. My mechanic says he thinks the next best step might be the cam and/or crank sensor. If not that, then he thinks we should change out the brain. Somebody else said it might be the fuel pump goin out. because I travel too far for work and I can't afford to fix things that probably won't solve the problem.
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I was driving my 98 Tahoe yesterday making a visit to my sister. pulled the truck into the drive-way, put the gear selector in park, stepped on the parking brake (a habit I've had for years) and YIKES! the peddle moved down with no resistance!
my parking brake light stayed on even after I released the parking brake peddle, which didn't spring back, but I pulled it back. light stayed on when I started the truck although I think the brake never engaged in the first place.
I drove the truck and didn't notice any drag at all. after driving a few miles I stopped the truck and felt the wheels for excessive heat but didn't experience that. my guess is the cable broke or came off and didn't engage the parking brake in the first place. sound correct?
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98 tracker with 5 speed manual transmission has new clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and shit cable. strictly mechanical clutch mechanism drive for about 30 minutes and clutch goes away and unable to shift gears. let it sit overnight will work until about 30 minutes of drive time when everything has a chance to heat up...
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I have a 2001 f150 supercrew 4x4 and my headlights will not turn on and my parking lights will not turn off. I have replaced my headlight and multifunction switches and it did not fix my issue. I have auto lights and fog lights. Does not matter what position i have the light switch in the headlights do not come on. I try to go from bright to dim still no headlights. I pull the ftp still no headlights and the only way to turn off my parking lights is to disconnect the battery. This is my only ride and its really aggravating not being able to drive at night.
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I drive a '99 Chevy Tracker with the 2Liter engine, a 5 speed manual transmission and 110K mi. on it. When I lift my foot from the throttle pedal in preparing to shift gears the engine takes a very long time to reduce it's RPM. This is a problem, when up shifting, as the transmission is spinning too fast for smooth gear engagement.
The engine idles normally under all other circumstances. It is only slow to decelerate whenever I lift my foot from the throttle pedal. This makes up shifting very slow and/or causes the gears to sometimes grind slightly.
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I have a 2010 Chev Cobalt LT, bought brand new off the lot- at about 15,000 km's, I started to experience some electrical issues.. Basically, what it is the parking brake light comes on in the instrument panel along with the all the other warning lights, both speedo and rpm gauges stop working, -- basically EVERYTHING electrical, but the lights, and turn signals, hazards work-- took it in to the GM Dealer- they cleaned the BCM Connectors, it was fine for about 4 months- now it's doing it again... Same thing as before warning lights come on, and everything stops except last night the Keyless Entry would not work at all... This has me stumped and it's annoying having to take it all the time..
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