Chevrolet - Tracker :: 2001 - Dash Lights And Headlights Dimming
May 10, 2011
For 8 or 9 months now the dash lights and headlights on my 2001Chevy Tracker are dimming (more like flickering but they don't go completely out). It is not the alternator - it has been checked. For a period of 4 orso months in between the beginning of this and now - the dimming stopped and now it's back. The only thing I can correlate to the dimming stopping was I had to have my car jumped because I left the headlights on and the dimming seemed to stop for the long period of time.
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I'm having trouble with the headlights on my 2003 Chevy Tracker. When it's light out, my headlights come on automatically when I release the parking brake, but turn off if I turn the switch that would normally turn them on. When it is dark out, or I drive under a bridge etc, they turn off and I can't manually turn them on. I can "flash" my headlights, but if I turn them on as if to leave them on, they don't turn on. This problem started about the same time that my AC blower stopped working, so I replaced the blower motor resistor and all fuses (I've heard that the blower motor resistor is also involved with the headlights). This fixed the AC, but had no effect on the headlights.
I can trick the lights into turning on at night only by shining a bright light directly on the sensor - they turn back off as soon as I remove the light. I took it to Pep Boys for a basic electrical diagnostic to see if I might be missing something silly, but once I described the problem they wouldn't even bother - told me to take it to the dealer and have the body regulator module reprogrammed.
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I will start out with a little history of the situation. A little over three months ago my original altenator died with over 200,000 miles on it. I took it in and had it replaced (they used a refurbished altenator) and about a 1-1/2 months later is when the issue started. The headlights and dash lights will flicker and whenever they dim, the volt gauge will go down.
When the lights come back to normal brightness the volt guage will also go back to normal. All this will go on for random lengths of time as I am driving. I took the vehicle back to where I had the altenator replaced and they replaced it again under warranty. About another 1-1/2 months went by and the same thing started happening. I took it back to the same garage and this time they put in a brand new altenator. Finally about a week after this last visit to the garage the symptoms came back.
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I recently have been running into some problems with my 03 jetta 2.0. Last night as I was driving home my radio start to turn off followed by ABS, airbag and battery lights coming on and then lights on the dashboard were dimming followed by headlights going out for a few secs then returning on but dim. I stopped in my drive way to open door and when I tried to press the accelerator, my car completely died.
Over the past 2 weeks or so I have had to change the fuel pump and the alternator because i thought that was the problem. I noticed when i first had problems the fuel pump wasn't charging so i changed that. then days later my car started to completely die when I tried to start it(not turning over, no lights no nothing). i tried a new battery it would still die. So I installed a new alternator. My car worked fine for about a week-week and a half before last night.
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My car came stock with the LED strip on the grill and was wondering if there's a way to keep the lights from dimming when the headlights are on?
Noticed that with the stock ones but they get dimmer when you're headlights are on. I want to keep a constant brightness.
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My dash lights have a weird glitch when the headlights are on. I can hear a click and the dash lights will go out and immediately back on almost like a blink.
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Can the speedo and tack lights be dimmed to almost off with the + and - buttons either side of the headlight switch on a 2014 Escape?
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I have a 2007 Taurus and for some odd reason I get a message saying to check the brake system. Its accompanied by dimming dash lights and symptoms of a bad alternator. I'm suspecting the battery (its from 2009). Sometimes the issue goes away and when I drive and get the car above 1300 rpm it will go away until the next stop light/sign.
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So the past week I've noticed that on occasion my dash lights will get really dim then randomly come back to full on (to where I have it set at.). Is this normal?
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Have a 2001 Prizm with 120k miles on it. Just had the recommended 120k service done a month or two ago (local shop that has been reliable to me) and they commented on how mechanically solid my car was.
Thursday drove to work like normal. When it was time to leave, car wouldn't start. No dash lights, nothing at all when I turned the key. Got a ride, came back later that night and jumped it and it started right up (didn't wait at all, but I also didn't check it before hooking up the cables - it might have started without a jump). Radio had reset and so forth, but it was running.
Drove Friday, it was fine. Car sat all weekend. Monday morning, dead as could be again. No dash lights when I put the key in, nothing when I turned it. Maybe a single click, but nothing more (can't remember for sure).
Drove wife's car to work. Came home Monday afternoon and the car started right up with no problem. Was curious if the battery voltage was low or anything, so I turned the car off, hooked up my bluetooth OBD reader (generic ELM 327 off ebay), and tried to start. Car was dead. Unplugged the reader, still nothing.
Took the battery out and ran to the store, assuming a bad or weak battery. They tested and said it's completely fine. Went back home, hooked it back up, car started right up. So now I'm suspecting something's up with the ELM327... I just got it last week, a few days before this all started. Had it hooked up all week long and didn't unplug it till the first time the car wouldn't start. Didn't plug it back in till Monday afternoon's issues.
Could a flaky OBD reader cause these kinds of issues? Anything else I should be checking, or do you think I'm ok as long as I toss out that reader? When I was using the reader last week, it seemed to be reading everything fine and sending the data over to my phone. When the car was dead each time, it acted like the battery was completely disconnected - radio reset, NO lights, etc. Could something with the OBD reader mess up the computer and make it act like that, and then a little time lets the computer reset or something?
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2000' GMC safari's electrical system. To begin, she has 95,000mi, an although that's about a year old, a duralast gold battery about the same age, and 13.8 volts at idle on the meter at the battery. The problem, over the past couple of weeks, I'll start it and drive off as normal, an the thing wants to stall for about two seconds. After that, no problem whatsoever. One time, it actually did stall on me, and everything went dead for a couple of minutes, no juice whatsoever; noticed that even the clock in the radio read 12:00. After a few minutes, I tried to turn the key again, and it started right up. This a.m., I went to start the van, and it initially would not turn over. The started motor turned but in a weak manor. At that point we went completely dead again, no electricity whatsoever.
The strangest thing is what happened next, I pulled the hood latch release as I was about to investigate and noticed the guages on the dash move when I did, power was back. The van then started but barely, and when it did it stumbled for a few seconds before driving off without so much as a hiccup the rest of the day. The only other possibly related symptom would be a slight rough idle combined with a just noticeable dimming of the dash lights in the dark at idle. Also, I should mention that I have checked the battery terminals and they are tight and clean, the van is in excellent shape mechanically, averaging 20mpg combined, smooth acceleration, no leaks, "using oil", white or black smoke, etc. Plugs, cap, rotor, and pcv are recent. Egr and maf are both clear.
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My 2000 Chevy Tracker will not go into reverse. Had tranmission drained and cleaned. Still won't go into reverse. Does this model have a separate reverse cable?
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my 2002 Chevy Tracker has run faithfully for the last 5-6 years. a few things have come up recently that have needed to be replaced, but nothing huge. after my AC compressor was replaced, my car started powering off in the middle of driving (not while revving engine standing still). mostly on cold starts, but now more frequently. mechanic swears it has nothing to do with AC compressor.
But he is checking drive train today. He has changed the tranny fluid, fuel filter, cleaned the gas tank, cleaned the throttle body (IAC motor), cleaned the mass airflow filter sensor, checked the battery voltage in case of an alternator problem. he has scanned the vehicle while driving and sitting still several times and no codes come up.
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My 2002 Chevy Tracker recently has been running poorly after consuming a 1/4 tank of gas. The check engine light comes on the scan tool reports P0171 and P0174 bank 1 and 2 lean(it's a 2.5 liter V-6). If I remove and replace the gas cap it runs better but not perfect. Once I use another 1/4 tank the symptoms return. I have noticed the cap is hard to remove lately. This has been going on for two weeks It's been to 2 garages one of them told me my catalytic converters are plugged up and wanted 2500 to fix .
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I have a 98 Chevy Tracker 1.6 auto. My OBD reader shows engine load @ 25% in park at idle. What would cause this.
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2003 Chevy Tracker (same as Suzuki Gran Vitara) v6 2.5L
For about a year, it has had belt squeal on starting, which lasts about 5 minutes..it's louder when AC was on..would go away with higher RPMs. Once the car was warmed though, no squeal. Ac has been working very well and blowing cold whole time. Finally it around to replacing belt, which was a difficult.
Tightened with an idler pulley type system(not spring loaded). Started it up, squealed a little on start, but went away..turned on AC and the squeal is horribly loud now and constant..high rpms only make it louder. Noticed that clutch engages fine, but spins inconsistently..like we'll the belt is slipping. It spins slow, fast, slow..etc. I can't tighten anymore as the tightening bolt is at the end of the channel, don't want to strip it. Also noted that it is about a bolt head width more tight than its previous position.
Surely changing the belt wouldn't cause the clutch to bite it would it?
Other notes...drives great when ac is not on. This is an acc only belt..ac,idler,power steering. Also, during the repair, antifreeze got on the pulleys..I cleaned them all around with generous spray of brake cleaner..they look clean.
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The problem started several months ago. At first it would only happen once in a while and would only last about 5 mins. The first time it happened I had it towed to my shop and it ran fine when it got there. Go figure. They told me they couldn't diagnose it if it wasn't acting up while they had it. Makes sense. But it never does it when I'm there for routine maintenance. Now it's doing it for twenty minutes at a crack. It's usually fine around town unless I get stuck in stop and go traffic. When it usually acts up is when I get on the road between work and home.
Every time I stop for gas I have to wait for it to decide it wants to start again. All of this is putting heavy wear on my starter. I changed the oxygen sensor (position no. 01), because that was the only error code that showed up. That didn't fix it. My mechanic says he thinks the next best step might be the cam and/or crank sensor. If not that, then he thinks we should change out the brain. Somebody else said it might be the fuel pump goin out. because I travel too far for work and I can't afford to fix things that probably won't solve the problem.
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I have a 2000 Honda CRV, standard transmission. Within the last 2-3 months, I have had my battery, starter, and radiator replaced. Three times in the last month, I have turned my car on and the headlights and dashboard lights won't come on. However, the break lights, blinkers, and other interior lights come on. The first time, I shut the car off and left it over night and the lights all worked in the morning. The second time this happened, I just turned the car lights on and off a few times, and they came back on. When it happened this evening, I tried turning the car and the lights on and off, but no luck. I took the car to a mechanic after it happened the first time. He said that because it wasn't happening then, it would be really hard to diagnose.
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98 tracker with 5 speed manual transmission has new clutch pressure plate throwout bearing and shit cable. strictly mechanical clutch mechanism drive for about 30 minutes and clutch goes away and unable to shift gears. let it sit overnight will work until about 30 minutes of drive time when everything has a chance to heat up...
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2003 Chevy Tracker 4 cylinder. Engine rebuilt and cannot get lifters to quiet down. Replaced 3 times. Bent valves on first install.
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When I turn the lights on , the dash lights go out on my 1988 k1500 silverado.
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