I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe. My ABS/Brake lights have been on for awhile now...they go off intermittently, but I think my ABS module is bad. This is a very expensive part.
View 2 Replies2004 Chevrolet Tahoe that has the dual climate control features. Some days the A/C blows cold on one side and hot on the other with it set on the coldest setting. Another day it blows cold on both. Then you guessed it a few days later it goes back to blowing hot on one side and cold on the other.
View 2 Replies1999 Chevy cavalier. Since 2010 Brake warning lights come on intermittently ABS, ETS (!)BRAKES, and traction. Brakes jerk the car forward a few shot times before car comes to a stop, car stops fine 90% of the time. Three different mechanics can not find anything wrong by looking at brakes and I'm lucky if they can drive it and have the problem happen which is basically every other day. New rotors were put on in 2010 twice first time they were warped, wheel cylinders replaced or whatever they do to them recently. Dealership said I needed new rotors I don't think they know.
View 6 RepliesI was driving my 98 Tahoe yesterday making a visit to my sister. pulled the truck into the drive-way, put the gear selector in park, stepped on the parking brake (a habit I've had for years) and YIKES! the peddle moved down with no resistance!
my parking brake light stayed on even after I released the parking brake peddle, which didn't spring back, but I pulled it back. light stayed on when I started the truck although I think the brake never engaged in the first place.
I drove the truck and didn't notice any drag at all. after driving a few miles I stopped the truck and felt the wheels for excessive heat but didn't experience that. my guess is the cable broke or came off and didn't engage the parking brake in the first place. sound correct?
We're on our third mechanic with no solution to our problem. My 2007 Chevy Equinox (93,000 miles) has performed flawlessly since I bought it new. Over the last 2 years, the brake light has come on a couple of times. Each time the brakes were reviewed by different mechanics who found nothing wrong other than the brake fluid being 1/4 cup low. Two bottle or less of 3 dot fluid were used to top of the brake fluid over 2 years. Two weeks ago we purchased 2 new tires and a REAR brake job from SHOP ONE, a tire/brake dealer.
The brake job was only because the car was nearing 100,000 miles and it seemed like a good idea. Immediately after the job, the brakes were extremely tight, barely giving to foot pressure. At freeway speeds one tire wobbled terribly, which SHOP ONE explained as the tire counterweight having fallen. SHOP ONE replaced the counterweight and pronounced the car fixed. Within 2 days, while on the freeway, the car started throbbing again, the brake stiffness was worse and the acceleration began to fail.
We towed the car to SHOP TWO, a very capable mechanic we've known for awhile. Computer codes show no problem with transmission or ABS or anything else. He said the problem was likely the master cylinder and booster, and took the following actions: Replaced FRONT brakes, master cylinder (OEM), booster (OEM), and rotors. The removed booster had more than a quart of liquid in it. He drove the car back and forth to his home to check performance with no problems.
When I drove the car back to my office the next day, the brakes seized up again, and I had to floor the accelerator to keep the car from dying. The car was towed back to SHOP TWO. The mechanic was able to replicate the problem but can't figure out what's causing it. There are and have been no signs of leaks. After seizing up. the car can be driven after 10 minutes of cool down.
The car is now at SHOP THREE, the dealer. Their computer diagnosis shows nothing wrong, but they recommend replacing the new master cylinder and booster with ANOTHER NEW master cylinder and rotor....
I owned a 1980 Chevy Citation 4 cyl AT. Much is known about the rear brakes locking up with those with MT. There was a recall. On my automatic, however, the power brake assist would often fail resulting in a couple crashes for me. There was an investigation into this in 1983 but I can't find what the outcome was - what the actual culprit was.
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 Chevy Tahoe that the transmission keeps going out in. I've replaced the torque converter, cooler lines, computer. I've even added an additional cooler on the truck and it keeps burning three the transmissions.
View 3 RepliesI have a1994 Dodge 1500 Ram Hemi extra cab 4door. The brake lights on the bed of the truck not the high light will blink on and off and sometimes stay on the other day my son-in-law narrowed the truck and a trailer and the trailer also blinked but again not the high light. Also the cruise has stopped working about the same time this started. At one time it was infrequent now is most of the time. Wondering if it could be part of the alarm system or something else it is driving me crazy.
View 4 RepliesOUr 2005 Prius has been intermittently popping on the buzzer/ ABS/ VSC and BRAKE lighte, usually when the brake pedal is touched, but sometimes without any apparent initiator. It remains on usually for 10-20 seconds, but occasionally stay on 20+ minutes. Interestingly, often, when the turn signal is activated, it immediately goes off. Dealer says there are no scanned error messages (and of course charged us to tell us that...), and to bring it in "while the lights are on." Right. It sounds like a short somewhere, but I don't know where to go from here.
View 1 RepliesMy brother's truck is a 1997 , 5.7 L gas engine, fuel injected. 100k+ miles.
New plugs, wires, new rotor, coolant temp sensor & air filter & recent battery.
Started a few times after the new air filter & some dry gas & fuel injector cleaner & that was the last time it started.
Turns over but will not run! He needs this truck to tow a trailer to R/C boat shows (he makes parts for R/C racing boats).
I have a 97 Tahoe that I love! The problem is that, every once in awhile, it simply won't start. Won't start, won't crank, won't do anything. I turn the key and nothing happens, similar to having the truck in gear and trying to start it. The REALLY frustrating thing is, when I take it to the mechanic, they can never recreate the problem. This last time, the mechanic had it for a couple of weeks, couldn't ever get it to not start. I had it for a week, and it stranded me an hour and a half from home.
View 4 RepliesMy wife has a 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe with abut 100K. She did something and doesn't know what but now the car beeps anytime you put it in reverse. No big deal, it's just annoying. I've checked the book and can't find out to disable. How to disable this on a tahoe or know what to look for in the owner's manual.
View 5 RepliesWhat is the embarrassing clickety sound my 2001 Tahoe makes when I accelerate with the AC on?
View 8 Replies98 Tahoe ac giving me warm air once again. 5 weeks ago had it in the garage. they found a leaking schrader valve and re-charged and added dye. checked it and didn't see anymore leaks. they said keep an eye on it and if it stops cooling bring it back. well.........it's going back! it's blowing warm air even though I hear the compressor kick on. what else could be giving me problems? of course i'll take it back but i'm just wondering if a switch failed this time or what the heck is happening. I was surprised to hear the compressor running with warm air.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD with the 5.3L V8. Tahoe has 134K. At about 125K miles, I replaced air filter with a K&N, new OEM spark plugs and spark plug wires. The Tahoe has been running great and was getting normal mpg until recently. 15mpg in town and 17mpg on the road is what I normally get. The last 3 fill ups my mpg has been below 13.5mpg. Car still runs great but at 13mpg it's starting to hurt a little financially. Weather here in NC has been normal, my driving conditions or habits have not changed, etc. What could be causing my mpg to drop by so much while the suv still rides smooth and straight?
View 4 RepliesHad a small brake fluid leak from my right-rear wheel, so I took it into a local place called Wheel Works. They said the right-rear caliper needed to be replaced, so I told them to go ahead.
Two days after I pick up the car, the ABS light and brake warning lights start flashing intermittently. They'd come on at random times, and then turn back off. After about 2 weeks of this, the warning lights are now on all the time.
I've read elsewhere on these forums that the ABS module on our cars can go bad and might need to be rebuilt. But is it possible that the mechanic caused this problem when he was working on the brakes to replace my caliper? Could it be something more minor than the ABS module? I now have reason to believe this mechanic is shady, so I'm hesitant to bring it back there.
2000 passat GLX, tip, 2.8L v6... new brake pads and freshly turned rotors, but both the "ABS" light and the "BRAKE" lights come on intermittently whilst driving. It doesn't happen every time it's driven, just maybe 1/3-1/2 of the time, and it is only on for a bit before it turns off, but it will usually turn on again later for a short stint as well.
View 3 Replies2003 F-350 dually. The brake lights will come on briefly then go off while the truck is sitting parked. Replaced the brake light switch on the pedal and it still does it.
View 10 RepliesMy 2002 Tahoe cranks over fine (new battery), but, will not start. I have checked the fuel pump relay and have control power to energize the relay, but. no switched power from ECM to change relay state. Jumped rely 30/87 and pump runs. No DTC's. Gauge on instrument panel reads no fuel. Scanner shows 56% level. Tried to use my Snapon MT2500 to switch relay state and received error message "generic device control limit exceeded" ECM?
View 3 RepliesMy 95 Tahoe smokes bad on startup (coolant) and a little (oil) on accelerating from zero. There is also a large internal coolant leak. I just replaced the intake manifold gasket as it was the easier fix; didn't do anything. Does this mean it is definitely a head gasket? Anything I can do in the meantime until I have time to pull the heads?
View 1 Replies2004 Tahoe that started with no heat in rear. Checked all hoses and they get hot all the way to back. Replaced rear blend door actuator and worked for a little while. Tonight, took a 90 minute trip and it blew ice cold until suddenly it started blowing heat 45 minutes into trip but then went back to cold after about 10 minutes. Actuator is electric not vacuum. Could it be in the controls where you adjust the temp?
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