Chevrolet - Tahoe :: 2006 - Suddenly Lose Power Without Warning
Mar 1, 2013
Our 2006 Chevy Tahoe will at times while running the speed limit (or slightly above) will suddenly without warning lose power. All the gauges remain in good ranges. This will happen without warning and not on a regular basis - sometimes going six months without happening and then happen three times within thirty minutes. The stability system warning message comes on as does the check engine light. Also the traction control warning light comes on. We can pull to the side of the road, turn the engine off for a few seconds and then it will start up again and run well with only the check engine light on. When this happens, the rpms will drop and go under 1500 and the engine will still be running, just without power.
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Coming home from the coast last night, my car started to hiccup and lose power. I had to pull over to the side of the road as no matter how much throttle I applied the car kept losing speed. The car was acting like it wasn't getting any fuel. Once stopped on the side of the road I revved the engine for about a minute and it picked back up. I drove the remaining forty miles home without further incident. Went out today to drive to the car and my car won't start. It will turn over, but will not start... again feels like it's not getting any fuel.
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My daughter has a 1995 Grand Prix - 3.1. The car has an intermittent problem that can go 2-3 weeks in between occurrences.
It runs like a top, but will suddenly lose power while driving and die completely. After a while it'll be fine. (starts up again.)
The lights will flicker and give a bit of warning before it dies. I had both crankshaft sensors replaced a month ago and I though that would do the trick.
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I have a 2007 Chev Tahoe. Description of Problem: Past month engine light came on. Then some days for a short time will go off. When light is on the auto start wont work. Battery has been drained so today I changed the battery and have a total electrical power system failure. Zero power to anything. Last month I put a scanner on it but i didnt save the code. It was related to a "throttle body module" i think. Have been reading about the BCM also so im at a complete loss...
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From time to time, my Tahoe gives me the "Reduced Engine Power" error, and I lose acceleration capabilities and have to pull over. After a min or 2, I can go again, but the check engine light stays on. With no rhyme or reason, the light will be on or off on the next start up. The problem may or may not happen during a short ride or may happen quite often. I have replaced the Accelerator Pedal sensor, so that is not the problem, I'm assuming.
I've been told that it is the Throttle Body that needs to be replaced, but no mechanic can confirm. They just want to replace it and the pedal. I would really like to keep this truck for a couple more years. Other than this problem, the Tahoe has been pretty good to me. Here are the codes that have been read: P1125, 1516, 2120, 2125 ....
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I just wanted to share with you all a cautionary tale about belt tensioners and idler pulleys. I am now a firm believer in installing the aforementioned items when you replace your drive belt. 15000 miles ago I replaced the drive belt and didn't heed the warning of some here on the forum.
For the last month or two I have noticed what sounded like road noise which I dismissed because I had just had new tires installed that had a more aggressive tread pattern than my previous tires, I also noted that the ECT had been a bit higher than normal, like running in the high 190's to low 200's on average.
Well while driving today I get the alternator warning light and lose power steering and soon after the brakes got stiff, this was followed by ever increasing ECT which got to 242* before I could get it off the road and shut down. It is too early to tell if the noises and the ECT temp rise were the result of this tensioner going out...
For what its worth the only tools required were a 10MM end wrench and a bit of skin to get the job done.
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I have a Chevy Tahoe 1999, Went to the store came out my Tahoe wouldn't start i had it towed home. My husband said the starter was clicking but wasn't getting enough power to turn the flywheel. We got a new starter put it on and it clicked just like it did when i tried to start it before. We took the new starter back and had the old one tested and it was ok so we put it back on and it still clicked like before. He said the flywheel was easy to turn, then he replaced the hot wire from the battery to the starter, now the starter don't even click.
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My 08 Tahoe will 'die' at odd times. Sometimes I open the door and there is no charge from the battery. This can happen between opening the door with the remote and trying to start the car. It can happen between putting the car in park and cutting it off. I have come home, dut the car off and been unable to open the doors until I remember how to do it manually. a jump will always restore the car - for a while. If I leave it alone for an hour or so,it usually will start but the clock and climate control have reset. Most recently, the alarm went off, I turned it off using my remote. I found later that the car had 'died' momentarily. I have had the car checked and rechecked. Everything seems to check out each time - battery, alternator, whatever. This stated a 18 months ago when my battery died and I got a new one. Most recently, my mechanic has changed the make of the battery and checked every connection and every component. I am now waiting to see if this happens again. Usually, it happens every 4 months +-. I am at my wits end. I do not know what to do, My mechanic does not know. He has even tried to update the computers n the car.
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I was driving my 2006 Prius on the highway (120,000 miles on it). I'd been driving about 10 minutes and all of a sudden, the dash warning lights lit up.
Red triangle with exclamation point.
Yellow circle with exclamation point.
Yello check engine.
The car did NOT lose power. It kept driving fine with no noticeable change in how it operated. Fuel consumption stayed the same. Braking worked fine. I had a completely full tank of gas (had just filled it up before I got on the highway). Temperature outside about around 60 degrees.
I kept driving to my destination (another 20 miles at highway speeds). The car sat parked for about 3 hours. I returned to the car, started it up. The same warning lights appeared, except for the Yellow circle with exclamation point. Plus, this time I noticed on the energy monitor screen the graphic of the red car with the exclamation point.
Again though, everything seemed to be working fine. While the car had been parked for 3 hours I did some browsing through the owner's manual and saw a notation that is the warning lights were only yellow and not red that it was okay to proceed with caution to the nearest dealer.
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I have a 2003 Tahoe that I love but is driving me crazy with a "Reduced Engine Power" message. I am driving along and suddenly it dings at me, the message center says "reduced engine power" and I am losing speed. It goes into a "limp mode" in which I cannot accelerate, it cannot pull itself up a hill, and the engine misses badly. I can pull over, shut it off for a couple of minutes and then start it up and run again just fine until it decides to do it again.
There seems to be no rhyme or reason, one day it did it 4 times w/n the first 20 miles, then ran 100 miles w/o doing it at all. I recently took it on a trip that normally takes me 1 1/2 hours, it took 2 1/4 hrs that day because I had to pull over so many times. I was having to stop every 3-4 miles by the time I got there. My usual mechanic has completely given up, told me to trade it. I have had it to another mechanic for over a month now, 3 times he has thought it was fixed, but it wasn't. One time, I didn't even make it the 5 miles to my house before it acted up again.
One other note on this: this past trip I made, I left early in the morning and my lights were flickering high/low. . . this went on for several miles. Finally my lights quit flickering, then I lost engine power, pulled over, shut it off. When I started it back up, the lights started flickering again. The cycle seemed to continue, once the lights would settle, the engine would lose power. I took it to a parts store and had the battery and alternator checked. They said both were fine. (Had never noticed the light thing before, but I can't think of a recent trip after dark.) How I can pass along to my mechanic?
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We have a 2001 E320 4-Matic. Recently, it has developed a serious problem. Every now and then, when I come to a stop (e.g., at a red light), the car would shake/vibrate significantly. Even more importantly, the car seems to lose acceleration suddenly and unpredictably (not necessarily correlated with vibration at the stop). The latter problem goes away "for the moment" by switching off the engine and then restarting it. The Check Engine light has come on as well. The codes that are diagnosed are P2001, P2003, P200F, P2082, P2050, P20151, P2055, and P2053.
While there are several issues with the car, I am most concerned now with the two issues I highlighted above - sudden loss of acceleration and the vibration while stopped (both happening unpredictably). I took the car to two mechanics. The two mechanics seem to sharply differ on how to resolve the "sudden and unpredictable loss of acceleration" issue. One mechanic (Mercedes dealer) attributes the problem to issues with EGR valve and claims replacing that will fix the problem. The other mechanic attributes the problem to the Catalytic Converter which he says is broken and is causing sudden loss of acceleration (and yes, there was a rattle some time ago). The second mechanic does not disagree that the EGR valve (and the secondary air injection system) has issues but he says it is the Catalytic Converter which is causing the core problem of sudden loss of acceleration (and yes, there was a rattle some time ago).
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I have a 2001 Durango. My one year old battery suddenly began to lose its charge last month if the car sat for two or more days. A local repair shop determined the alternator was okay, but the battery was bad. The parts store agreed and replaced the battery under warranty.
A week later the new battery also went dead after the car had been parked for two days. I then took it to a Dodge dealership that kept it for over a week, but couldn’t find anything wrong. Even after being parked over the weekend, it started right up for them.
After getting it back home I drove it for three days. I parked it for two days, and the third morning the battery was completely dead. After charging with a trickle charger for a couple of hours the car started fine.
I bought the car new and have kept up on all the maintenance. It’s parked in my driveway the same way for over seven years with the doors locked. What’s going on?
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I have a 06 sonata v6 with 120k. Today while driving the car started to lose power then the lights on the dash board flickered radio went nuts and the car lost all power. What could be causing this? Moved battery a little bit and got power back but then started driving and it did the same thing. I did have the heater on 2. You can feel it lose power while accelerating.
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My remote controls just stop working. 2006 Chevrolet Impala LTZ .
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I have a 99 Chevy Tahoe that the transmission keeps going out in. I've replaced the torque converter, cooler lines, computer. I've even added an additional cooler on the truck and it keeps burning three the transmissions.
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My brother's truck is a 1997 , 5.7 L gas engine, fuel injected. 100k+ miles.
New plugs, wires, new rotor, coolant temp sensor & air filter & recent battery.
Started a few times after the new air filter & some dry gas & fuel injector cleaner & that was the last time it started.
Turns over but will not run! He needs this truck to tow a trailer to R/C boat shows (he makes parts for R/C racing boats).
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I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe. My ABS/Brake lights have been on for awhile now...they go off intermittently, but I think my ABS module is bad. This is a very expensive part.
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I have a 97 Tahoe that I love! The problem is that, every once in awhile, it simply won't start. Won't start, won't crank, won't do anything. I turn the key and nothing happens, similar to having the truck in gear and trying to start it. The REALLY frustrating thing is, when I take it to the mechanic, they can never recreate the problem. This last time, the mechanic had it for a couple of weeks, couldn't ever get it to not start. I had it for a week, and it stranded me an hour and a half from home.
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My wife has a 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe with abut 100K. She did something and doesn't know what but now the car beeps anytime you put it in reverse. No big deal, it's just annoying. I've checked the book and can't find out to disable. How to disable this on a tahoe or know what to look for in the owner's manual.
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What is the embarrassing clickety sound my 2001 Tahoe makes when I accelerate with the AC on?
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98 Tahoe ac giving me warm air once again. 5 weeks ago had it in the garage. they found a leaking schrader valve and re-charged and added dye. checked it and didn't see anymore leaks. they said keep an eye on it and if it stops cooling bring it back. well.........it's going back! it's blowing warm air even though I hear the compressor kick on. what else could be giving me problems? of course i'll take it back but i'm just wondering if a switch failed this time or what the heck is happening. I was surprised to hear the compressor running with warm air.
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