I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe , the doors keep locking and unlocking. The abs and brake lights come on and stay on. When the doors act up the engine light comes on . The best is it'll stall out. Doesn't happen every time , but 99%
View 5 RepliesMy wife said that her keys stopped locking/unlocking doors. I checked the keys and replaced the battery just to be sure. No change. Older keys also couldn't unlock/lock the car.
Both keys can start the car and has blinking red LED flushing when any buttons pushed. Is there a "Remote" button somewhere in a car to allow remote operation?
2007 RX400h 110k mi.
The issue began around July/August of this year. It sounds as if the car locks are attempting to lock and unlock while I am driving. It is a clicking sound. The doors will automatically lock when the car is going at 10 mph - this is normal. The locking/unlocking sound sometimes will start within 5 minutes and other times within 30 minutes - it is totally random. This does not happen every day but it is definitely monthly and has lasted anywhere from 3 days to 10 days. The other noise associated with it comes from the console on the passenger side. It is a clicking sound. This sound happens during the locking/unlocking sound but on intermittent cycles. The doors never become unlocked while I am driving. I purchased the car new.
View 6 RepliesOkay, i have an issue with both rear doors randomly not locking or unlocking, i have to manually push down on the rear door lock buttons to lock them, then when i try to unlock them they get stuck, then when i pull the inside door handles they pop up again only sometimes.
1. I use keyfob to lock or unlock wont work
2. I manually put key into the drivers door, still not working
3. I use the inside drivers door switch and still doesn't work
Other problem is when I arm the alarm with keyfob, battery goes flat, i think it's sensing that the door is open why its draining the battery. Both front doors work excellent.
I have a 2010 Prius IV and set the doors to all unlock when I touched the driver's door handle. Annoyingly, now when I touch the raised spot on the handle (either driver or passenger side) to lock all the doors the car does the beep but also briefly toots the horn. The horn also toots when I touch the handle to unlock.
My old 2005 Prius VI just did the beeping (which my neighbors and I can live with) but the addition of a honking horn, however brief, is pretty annoying. I can't seem to find a place to disable this unwanted feature...
Car worked fine yesterday. Today, I walk to my car, unlock the doors, lights work but engine won't crank. just a few very light clicks (3 -5 clicks quickly, wasn't really counting, a relay? solenoid? )
Lights work, horn works radio works. try to unlock the rear doors with the remote, but it won't. Try to open trunk with remote and it works.
Call roadside assistance, attach a battery jumper to the battery and same thing. engine doesn't crank, windows won't roll down, doors won't unlock or lock. but trunk works. radio works, lights work.
I wanted to think starter or starter solenoid but the issues with the door and windows have me puzzled. Its a 2001.5 passat v6, 5 speed, engine light is not on.
I have a 2000 ford windstar LX. When i drive it, the door chime sensor comes on and off randomly and door starts locking unlocking. Happens more often when the road is bumpy or when i brake hard.
Per the local dealer I changed all four door actuators (the front one had stopped working) . All four door actuators are brand new and working but the issue still exists.
What should be my next steps in troubleshooting? Is there a way to simply disconnect these door chime sensor?
Curious as to whether the lights flashing when locking or unlocking the doors on the '06 F series was an option or standard equipment? I know that they flash when you lock the doors (hitting the button twice) but curious at to whether you can make them flash when you unlock (rather than just the interior light coming on).
View 1 Replies I have an 08 smart key Prius. I hit a deer in November on front passenger side. While in the shop the battery died and had to be replaced.
Since my panic alarm would go off at weird times. I checked the aux 12v battery and it was fine.
After a couple of weeks it stopped. It started again last week and I noticed the little red light on my fob was blinking.
I replaced the fob battery and now the smart key function and the buttons will not unlock the door.
I had a strange issue arise today. used the car this morning and all was well. Came home this afternoon and clicked the remote fob to unlock the car and..... nothing. no indicator flash and the central locks didnt work.
thought the battery was gone in the fob so went inside and got the spare fob and tried that. clicked that and again nothing.
replaced the battery with a new cr2032 battery and nothing, checked the 12v battery via cars diagnostics and a healthy 12.6 and 14.1 outputs. central locking works via the button on the car door. so fuses, motors etc are ok.
went online and saw the fob reprogram threads. been spending the last 7 hours trying to reprogram the fobs. searching the net and trying any 'new' or different methods suggested.
I noticed that my key fob has stopped working for remote locking/unlocking. This was not fixed with a brand new battery, and I just noticed that the depressed "unlock" button seems go have lost its subtle click, so there may be a mechanical failure inside there.
View 1 RepliesVW New Beetle convertible 2004 ... Unlocking and locking my car via the remote largely stopped working (with my main key and the spare). I took the car to the repair shop, and after driving 20 min, the remote worked fine. They checked the computer to see if failures had registered (they had) and told me I'd likely have to replace the part in the door (pricey!) if the problem persisted. It has. The remote won't work at all, and then after I drive the car for a while, it works (as if it is somehow being recharged by driving.) I phoned my repair guy again, and he's mystified, cannot explain how driving for a period of time makes the key remote work.
View 9 RepliesSo I have an 05 MK4 GLI, my alarm has not worked since the day I got it. Hold the alarm button on the fob, no luck. when I lock or unlock the car, the lights don't flash and the horn doesn't beep. My ex had an 03 GLS 2.0, alarm/lock/unlock worked without a problem, so why mine doesn't work.
View 7 RepliesMy driver door on my 06 F150 crew cab stopped locking/unlocking recently. I purchased a new actuator and installed and it worked great. About a week later it stopped working again. But then in order to unlock the door from outside you had to turn key and pull on handle while the key was still turned. I was about to break open door again when it made a strange electronic type sound when I was leaving for work (when auto lock activated). After that it started working again - for 3-4 days. Now it stopped working again. I can open door fine from inside but lock won't stay unlocked. As soon as I release handle it locks again.
View 1 RepliesI'm a new Prius owner (<1 month) and have a hopefully easy problem to solve.
View 7 RepliesI got the car running again, so no need to go into details on that (I used the physical key on the keyfob, you really do have to turn it further than you'd think, but that got me into the car, after several tries was able to get it to stop cycling through the locking/unlocking and was able to jump it).
Got the 12v battery in my Prius replaced by the dealership in the last 2 years. Last winter, one day my Prius refused to start even though it had been running fine earlier that day and was parked in a semi-heated garage. Jumped it and got it working.
Last Friday I went to get out of my car and my Prius kept beeping at my any time I had the door open, and the clock on the dash seemed to be a little dim. I doubled checked that the keyfob was in my pocket (and not in the holder thingy), eventually the car seemed to lock fine and I went up to my apartment. Didn't drive the car until this morning.
This morning I come down to find that keyless entry does not work, nor does pressing the unlock button on the keyfob. (The car is parked in heated underground parking fyi.) About every 1 second on repeat, the car is making this sound like it makes when you hit the lock/unlock button from the inside of the car, so it seemed like it was stuck in an endless loop of locking or unlocking. I go back upstairs, leave my key fob in my apartment (which is around 300 meters away or so), come back down - it's still on the loop making that sound.
I get into the car with the physical door key, try starting it - the lights will come on but the car doesn't seem to actually start. And the endless lock/unlock loop starts up against once I turn the car "off". I got upstairs and switch to my other backup keyfob. Come back down. Car is still in the endless loop. Try to start it again, car still doesn't seem to start, but this time when I turn it "off" the endless lock/unlock cycle finally stops. Do finally get it running by jumping the battery, then it seems to run fine.
So I bring it to the dealer, and the guy their rather vehemently insist there must be something wrong with my keyfob. First he immediately confidently assures me that I just need to replace the battery in the keyfob, which makes no sense. Then he changes to saying he thinks the lock button on the keyfob was stuck down, which doesn't make sense either as like I said it continued doing it even when I removed any keyfob from being anywhere near the car.
I have a 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD with the 5.3L V8. Tahoe has 134K. At about 125K miles, I replaced air filter with a K&N, new OEM spark plugs and spark plug wires. The Tahoe has been running great and was getting normal mpg until recently. 15mpg in town and 17mpg on the road is what I normally get. The last 3 fill ups my mpg has been below 13.5mpg. Car still runs great but at 13mpg it's starting to hurt a little financially. Weather here in NC has been normal, my driving conditions or habits have not changed, etc. What could be causing my mpg to drop by so much while the suv still rides smooth and straight?
View 4 RepliesWhen I get near the driver's door on my 2008 Prius in attempt to unlock the door, nothing happens. However, when I get near the passenger door or the rear hatch, they will both open but the car chirps 5 times. The driver's door remains locked. It's not the battery in the key FOB, because if it was, no doors would open unless I remove the key from the FOB and physically open the door the "traditional" way.
View 19 Replies2004 Tahoe that started with no heat in rear. Checked all hoses and they get hot all the way to back. Replaced rear blend door actuator and worked for a little while. Tonight, took a 90 minute trip and it blew ice cold until suddenly it started blowing heat 45 minutes into trip but then went back to cold after about 10 minutes. Actuator is electric not vacuum. Could it be in the controls where you adjust the temp?
View 5 Replies2004 Chevrolet Tahoe that has the dual climate control features. Some days the A/C blows cold on one side and hot on the other with it set on the coldest setting. Another day it blows cold on both. Then you guessed it a few days later it goes back to blowing hot on one side and cold on the other.
View 2 RepliesI have an '04 chevy tahoe, only 70k. Very recently the front end of the car has started to shutter while driving. This happens when I am going generally above 45mph- more so going up a hill. It feels a little bit like I am driving over unevenness/ripples in the road- even when it's smooth flat pavement. When I take my foot off the accelerator and just coast the vibration stops. I got new tires put on front so it is not a wheel balance issue. The car does not pull left or right either like out of alignment. And the engine rmp's do not fluctuate/strain when the shuttering starts.
View 5 Replies