Chevrolet - Surburban :: 2000 - No Coolant Flow / Blockage In Engine?
Jul 9, 2014
I do not have coolant flow. Changed Waterpump and Thermostat 2 times, hoses, new radiator and even clutch fan. I even cut out thermostat all together just to make sure that wasn't causing any flow problems. I flushed out heater core and hoses.
I'm thinking i have a block in engine not allowing flow. only thing left i can think of... So currently i have water pump removed and my question is: There is 4 open ports, 2 on each side for which the waterpump covers and pumps coolant through. Is the coolant pumped in 2 holes on one side and then comes out other 2 entry ports on other side after flowing through engine block?????
I tried to flush with waterhose, but can only get water to come out on same side of the 2 ports. NOTE: The port are ones square and other circle bore, one on each side. Flushing through square port and water comes out circle port.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
Engine shuts down/off without warning after 1-2 hours of runtime in 95-degree weather. Starts right away, but shuts down within 5 minutes. Allow engine to cool for an hour or two, and resume normal operation. Night time driving, no problems. Water temperature gauge, and all other gauges normal. No check engine warning/code. Fuel pump noisy, but otherwise OK.
View 1 Replies
For several months now, my 2007 Prius has been making an intermittent buzzing sound from the engine bay. When I first heard it, I thought I had hit the little lines they cut into the road to let you know you've drifted over the center line - the sound is like that, a low-pitched buzzing noise. Today, the check engine light came on as it was making that noise. I put a code reader on the car and got P1121, a bad coolant flow control valve. Wondering if the sound and the faulty control valve are just coincidental or if the valve might make that noise when it fails? And if not the valve, what the sound might be?
View 19 Replies
My check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
View 4 Replies
I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
View 10 Replies
I have a 99 alero. The temp runs right above the mid point and I get coolant over flowing out of the over flow tube. I have bought 2 caps and still the same problem. I have bleed the system thinking it was air trapped in the system after repairing a small heater hose. I thought that was the problem at first but I have repaired it and replaced the cap. But i'm still getting coolant coming out of the over flow tube.
View 4 Replies
My 1994 chevy cavalier is overheating mainly on hot days and when I work the engine hard. My coolant level hasn't dropped in a long time and the coolant cap is usually dry. I replaced the thermostat and checked the radiator hoses. They seem to be fine. My engine is leaking coolant.
(See photo) : IMG_2308.JPG3024x4032 2.61 MB
View 19 Replies
So I recently bought a Chevy Impala with about 150,000 miles on it. The check engine light is on and sometimes it will tell me my coolant levels are low. I filled it up with coolant and the message still comes on sometimes. Also, when I'm driving, I can feel my rpms go way up when I press the gas, but they car won't accelerate for shit. Sometimes the check engine light will blink, which I've heard is for safety, and my car will barely accelerate at all. I can drive it around town easily the way it is now, but I don't want to risk ruining it. On top of that, my radio and lights will cut in and out sometimes and get better the more gas I give it.
View 3 Replies
I have read all the posts pertaining to this code, replaced my coolant flow valve, bled all the air out of the coolant system and still am getting the cel with the 1121 code.
I have tried setting multiple coolant flow valve positions, checked all wiring in harness, coolant level is full in rad and reservoir, checked temp sensor at bottom of storage tank, checked pump operation at top of tank to attempt to clear this code to no avail.
Is there a default position the valve is to be in before cold start up?
Is there anything else that can trigger this code? What am I missing?
View 11 Replies
Why am I losing coolant out of overflow on a 1999 jeep Cherokee classic for ?
View 10 Replies
I am having a overheating issue with my 1.8t AWP gti, it goes as fallows, start the car, engine warms up go for a drive (short 5-8 mi), park the car and temp gauge starts to rise, (turns off car)... I began to check some things with the system, I checked both rad hoses bottom is hot top is a bit hotter and fans work when ac is on; here is where it gets interesting i took off the coolant return hose on the reservoir (cold start) and nothing was flowing ...water pump?... So i turned the heat on and air full blast and all of a sudden coolant starts to flow.
It also seems like air is being spat out as well. Soon after the flow beginning my coolant in the reservoir starts to fluctuate (rising and dropping) with air bubbles and beginnings to over flow so i shut the car off. Now I know what the possible issues are its either the water pump, air in the system or bad autozone thermostat. Here is some history of the car TB was replaced at 70,000 by Previous owner, i bought the car had the belt inspected and was told it was good, about 2 months ago i had a coolant leak and had it misdiagnosed as a thermostat housing leak; it turns out it was a coolant bypass hose that was leaking so i ended up fixing it. I lost a lot of coolant but topped it off with g12+. My mechanic doesn't think its the water pump and recommended changing the thermostat for an VW one another mechanic recommended to bleed air of the system.
View 7 Replies
I inherited a 1994 Mazda B2300 Pick Up 5 speed with just over 100K miles. Problem is the temp. gauge will just barely move off "C" at full tilt on a summer day. Confirmed the temp gauge was right. Replaced the thermostat and flushed out the system and heater core. Hoses are "warm". Cardboard over the radiator will push the temp. up to the middle after 20 minutes on freeway. Next checked the fan clutch. No dice. The fan spins free and can be stopped by hand. So, what else is "open" allowing too much coolant flow?
View 4 Replies
Car is a 1995 Chevy Cavlier LS. 2.2L engine, about 127,000 miles. Has a minor coolant leak (freeze-out plug) and a slow oil leak (if I forget to check the level, the oil light comes on about 3000 miles after an oil change). It's beat up, had a few years of poor maintenance (but limited use) before I got it from a relative 3-4 years ago. I do oil changes at 3-5k miles, keeping fluids topped off, and try to remember to change the air filter regularly (which reminds me, I think I'm due for one).
Problem history: About 7 months ago, I had problems with the battery going dead. Some of it related to stupid mistakes--lights on or door ajar. Battery was old, parts store suggested replacing it. New battery fixed the issue. About 2 weeks ago, I tried to start it and ran into the same problem after the car hadn't been run for 2+ days. Dash lights come on, the key-in/startup bell chimes, but turning the key to start leads to fast clicking from the engine and the chime sounding rapidly. I forget if it made any other sounds at the time. Attempting to jump it didn't work, but the other car had an old battery and the cables were kindof cheap.
Called roadside, and he was able to jump it. He suggested taking the battery to Advance, so we did that.Advance charged the battery, tested it, said it was fine. Suggested I bring the car over and they could test to see if it's charging the battery. I did that, and it seemed ok. Engine was a little rough, possibly spark plugs, but I haven't checked that out yet. I figured I had done something stupid again and left a door ajar or the headlights on.Today, same problem again. I last drove it 2-3 days ago. Headlights were definitely off. It's possibly the driver door was ajar causing the dome light to stay on, but I doubt it. Same noises when I turn the key as before, I hear the sound of the engine trying to start once (I think that it's trying to turn over), but it won't start. Haven't had a chance to try and jump it yet.
Possibly relevant: Back in the spring, it wouldn't start one day, but the engine wouldn't do anything, no clicking etc. Neutral safety switch was loose/misaligned. Mechanic was able to make a small adjustment, and it's been fine.
View 5 Replies
I have an 1997 F150/4.2 V6/220,000 miles/4x2. During hot weather (over 90F) the engine slowly overheats. While driving on the interstate (from Indy to Fort Wayne), the coolant temperature shows normal on the gauge. Slowly the temperature gage creeps up to close to the red area. I am running the A/C.
When I switch the heater on and the heater fan at max, the temperature gauge drops pretty quickly to a normal range. I switch off the heater and the A/C back on, then it takes 30 minutes for the temperature gauge to start rising again.
When I open the hood when the gage shows close to the red area, the upper coolant hose has a lot of pressure (cannot squeeze it), which would mean that the thermostat is open and the waterpump is working. Also the fan is running fast. The coolant was changed out a few weeks ago and the coolant level is at normal level when the engine is cold. At lower ambient temperatures, there is no overheating. I am puzzled what the problem can be. I am thinking of a restricted coolant flow. Looking for solutions to my problem.
View 14 Replies
Coolant flow seems to be not at its max output seems like it's blocked somewhere. Lots of pressure in bypass line of radiator after clamping of hose and releasing pressure of degas bottle?
View 11 Replies
I was getting a check engine light with a P1112 code, so I had a mechanic replace the coolant flow control valve. There's a TSB on that and it seems to be the thing to do. But after the replacement, I'm getting overheat warning light whenever the engine needs to work hard. Also, the cabin heater only works when the gasoline engine is not running... when the engine is off, I get heat (though it's not as hot as I'd think when I have it on max heat), but when the gas engine kicks in, the cabin heat disappears.
View 8 Replies
Okay, the vehicle is a 1988 E250 ClubWagon 7.3 IDI diesel with front and rear AC/heat. I have 3 questions for you:
1. I found that the rear heater core is getting coolant flow constantly which is making my rear AC blow 75* air. These models don't have a blend door in the back, they appear to have a valve that is only allows coolant flow to the rear heater core when the heat is turned on. Problem is that I can't seem to find where this valve is located on the van or what it is called to locate it at a parts store. Where on my van this valve is located?
2. My rear blower only functions on High. I know there is a resistor set up in the rear that controls the blower speed. Before I just replace this, is there a way that I can test it?
3. Is it possible that the Resistor setup for the rear fan speed would also be causing the rear coolant flow valve to not work? I know it's a long shot, but does the valve signal flow through it when the AC is on to tell the coolant valve to shut?
View 1 Replies
Chevy Silverado.. The display of heat, location of air flow, temperature and fan flickers and changes on its own. Sometimes it works fine and blows out nice warm air. Other times it goes out completely and I have no control over any of it. It will just blow cold air. If I turn the head lights on it sometimes makes it go out completely. I have had the relay switch changed out and that was not the problem.
View 5 Replies
IPR CF2 Byasss High Flow Coolant Filter Ford 6.0
Made for the 6.0, the biggest problem on the 7.3 might be finding real estate for the filter assembly.
One review refers to using it on a 7.3.
View 14 Replies
The check engine light on my '05 Prius has gone on and off a couple of times and is giving me a P1121 code, which I found out means "Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Stuck". Does this have anything to do with the hybrid electric coolant pump that was replaced under recall a while back?
View 5 Replies
It's been a long week for me and my 2007 Prius. Brought it to the dealer after receiving my first ever CEL. I have 222,000 miles on the vehicle. The a/c was also blowing warm when the CEL came on. They checked that and told me that the compressor was "breaking up." Then they call me back to tell me that my 12V battery died. They asked me if I had problems with starting the vehicle. I said never. Never had any issues with the car in 222,000 miles.
Well, told them to replace the battery (no choice) and the car is 5.5 years old in Florida heat so it was ready to die. Very suspicious that it died while they had the vehicle, but what can I say. Told them to not repair the coolant flow valve or the a/c until I could investigate further on my own. CEL is now off. The a/c is blowing cool again.
View 10 Replies
