2003 Chevy suburban, 115K miles, accelerating I hear a squeal/groan/clicking noise coming from right front of engine. Did not happen this winter, started again in spring. Loses power if stay on accelerator. If let off and then reapply, it will momentarily go away. Appears to be only when air conditioning on. Bad AC or just the pulley?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Azera with a 3.8 engine. It has 16000 miles without any problems. There is a clicking noise coming from the engine compartment when accelerating. The noise only occurs when the engine is cold and seems to be more pronounced when accelerating quickly. I do not hear it when the car is idling.
View 2 RepliesI have a '98 Suburban 4WD, last week I started hearing a clicking noise when I go in reverse. Sounds like it is coming from the rear axle area. I don't hear the sound when going forward.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.7, auto trans. 214,000 miles. Transmission had a complete rebuild in August 2015. Last few days when driving slowly (5 mph) there is a rhythmic clicking or ticking noise coming from the center of the vehicle, best I can tell with my limited hearing. Noise is variable with car speed. With rear axle on jack stands in gear and idling, and my kubota backed up to it for safety ,sound is still there. All U joints appear to be fine, they are tight and there is no sign of fresh rust at the bearing caps. All axle boots are fine, no holes or anything else. I originally thought front hub assembly but the jack stand test rules that out. Not sure what the heck it could be.
View 1 Replies2002 Chevy Tahoe Z71 ... When I first turn my car on in the morning (or after an extended period of time - i.e. the car has completely cooled down) it makes a clicking / ticking noise that appears to be coming from the engine area. It lasts approximately 10 - 12 seconds and then simply goes away. This happens consistently. I recently had it serviced end-to-end: belts, plugs, total tune-up etc.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 suburban . I have a humming noise coming from the rear . It starts at 45mph and then goes away at 47mph. I hear it again between 60-65 mph then goes away . This is a faint sound . When pulling a trailer the sound is much more noticeable and more constant from 55-64 mph . When I let off the gas the sound is still there and fades as the truck slows. Am I dealing with a bad tire ( I plan to rotate them to see if that is the cause ) or a wheel or axle bearing ? To note I replaced the front wheel hub/bearings just about a year ago .
View 2 RepliesI've only started noticing this recently. I have a 2004 W12 with roughly 75k miles. It seems to only happen after the engine warms up, but even then its seemingly randomly. I'll notice a clicking sound coming from the front passenger side of the engine. The sound increases in frequency as I rev the engine. I have no check engine lights and no noticeable loss of power. Its not a radiator fan since the sound is still audible when the hood is open. I'm getting no CAN errors with my generic OBDII scanner (I know its not a VAG-COM but hey).
I've been reading up on the possibility of it being a bad valve lifter. I don't know much about them and was hoping to get some advice here before I go about asking my dealership to diagnose the sound. I found this random article through google vaguely talking about replacing the lifter. The person says its "reasonable and inexpensive".
I also stumbled across this thread here describing what sounds similar. Although the thread provides no closure it seems towards the end people are hinting that the engine needs to be pulled? This is contradictory to the first source I found. My question is, say it was a bad lifter, whats the extent of work required to fix it? The Parts seem to be really cheap if I'm looking at the correct stuff?
I own a 2003 Jeep Wrangler and for the past 4 months. I have had a squeal coming from the right side front of the engine when coming off the gas. However when I get below 25mph while slowing to a complete stop the sound goes away in most cases. My mechanic has replace the tension pulley along the the serpentine belt and the sound still persists...
View 5 RepliesI have a 94 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a 5.7L, 350 Engine. It has 235,000 miles on it. I purchased it about 4 years ago with 191,000 miles in very good condition and obviously well maintained. I have continued to maintain it well.
For the past few months it has begun to start a little slower that before and when accelerating cold or warm there is a spot where it looses power. It doesn't sputter or die it just looses power. I can press the accelerator farther and it will come back to life and do fine. After a 20 -30 minute drive if I park for a while, 20 - 30 minutes, when I start it up it dies. The only way to keep it running is to give it the gas and smooth it out at about 1500 rpm for 10 - 15 seconds. Then I can drive it with no problem most of the time though it still has the dead spot on acceleration.
There is a good spray pattern from the throttle body injectors. Plugs and wires are relatively new and plugs look good (AC Delco Rapidfire Platinum). When I turn on the ignition without going to start, the fuel pump builds pressure for 4 - 6 seconds. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and am considering investing in the rig to do so. I recently replaced the fuel filter but that didn't work.
The check engine light has not come on but many of the lights in the cluster are burned out and I haven't felt like going to the trouble to fix that so it is possible that the check engine bulb is bad.
This just started this afternoon. I was leaving the store to come home, and as I cranked the car and shifted into reverse the power locks went down... then up... then down... then up... then up again... then up again... etc. So I pulled into the parking space and turned it off and then on again, hoping it was just some intermittent issue. No such luck.
Since I was just two miles from home I figured I'd suck it up until I got to the house. About halfway home my car decided it wanted to shift into neutral gear (it was making the same noise you'd get if you manually shifted the car into neutral)... then back into drive... then into neutral... then into drive...it was doing it with the same rhythm as the door locks.
Then the dinging started. As in, a "your door is ajar" ding rather than a "there's a loose bit of metal" ding. It would ding but then stop in mid-ding, kind of like a "DIN*stop* DING DING DING DIN*stop*". At about this time I started hearing a clicking noise coming from somewhere under my dashboard.
I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty. It recently started making a noise that I think is most accurately described as a groan/squeal. It only happens at low speed, < 20MPH, and happens more often the lower the speed. It also seems more likely to happen when the vehicle is turning. I haven't noticed any other problems with the car. The brakes and serpentine belt were recently replaced.
The brakes were replaced because they were starting to get old, looked corroded, and were starting to squeal when braking. The serpentine belt was replaced because it had a crack in it and was under warranty after being replaced for the same reason only 10 months ago. I don't believe that the noise is related to the brakes as the noise has occurred many times when the brakes were not being applied and it does not appear to occur any more or less frequently when they are applied
Enjoying taking trex out in the snow here in the northeast this afternoon... When I accelerate, I hear a groan coming from the front axle and the ESP light blinks on/off.. Is it normal? Still happens if i turn ESP off...doesn't happen in my wife's glx passat (4motion), so it seems unusual to me...
View 5 RepliesI bought a used Certified Prius with 49k miles on it. I noticed when accelerating (and the display shows that I am using the ICE but not so much that it shoots up into the "Power" portion on the far right) that the there is a clicking noise coming from the front passenger side of the car.
It sounds very much like this:
I don't hear it when only the electric motor is running, and I don't hear it when I really punch it and the power meter is completely filled up. Its more when the power meter is in the middle of the display and the ICE kicks in and I am slowly accelerating.
I had an interesting ride home tonight. I accidentally lowered my front passenger window a little bit and when I tried to raise it I just got a clicking noise. So I drove along hitting the button, hoping the window would close, but it wouldn't. Then, the dash lights and head lights started pulsating/flickering. The engine power wasn't affected and the battery gauge wasn't moving. My vehicle is a 2002 Chevy Trailblazer with 173,0000 miles on it. Replaced the battery a few years back and have had no other electrical problems.
View 19 RepliesSix months ago we purchased a '91 Chevy Pickup and 3 months ago the truck started to "sneeze". Sometimes while accelerating the truck makes a "toot" noise from in front of the driver under the hood, and with the noise I have a momentary loss of RPMs. This can happen a number of times in a row, making pulling out on to busy streets difficult and dangerous. Most of the time, I take my foot completely off the gas and then re-apply it, and the issue goes away. It happens both with a cold engine and a warm/hot engine. This problem started when it was cold out (around 10 degrees Fahrenheit) and the mechanic I talked to about it thought it was the E10 87 gas I was putting in.
I switched to a 97 octane/no-ethenol fuel and the problem went away, until about a week ago when our temperatures finally broke 50 consistently. The problem is back and with it is a minor fluctuation of RPM when idling in neutral. The truck also created a new symptom, I was driving at about 50mph and the truck acted like it slipped on ice... I had evened out my speed and the truck seemed to start coasting then got back to driving at speed, it jerked the whole truck, like driving over a patch of ice. I don't know if it has anything to do with the original problem but all symptoms may be the same thing....
The truck is a 91 Chevy 1500K, 5.7L V8 and has 74,000 miles (mostly highway towing). It had been sitting 2 years, not really being used, before we bought it. We had the fuel injection system cleaned when they did the oil change, right after we purchased the vehicle.
I picked up a '99 Passat 2.8 GLX tonight and the steering is making a loud squeal and groan when I turn the steering wheel. I checked the fluid and it's brown. I've owned a lot of VW's and Audi's and I've never seen brown fluid in one. I checked for a leak but there's so much oil everywhere from where the previous owner just had the cam seals, timing belt, water pump, and a bunch of other stuff changed. The level looks good, but it's just nasty and loud.
View 3 RepliesFirst bit of cold weather and I'm getting thirty seconds of loud clicking (or clacking) coming from the immediate vicinity of the blower motor on start up and shut down. Doesn't matter whether my climate control is on or off, it still makes the noise. I'm assuming it's stripped out teeth on one of the blend door actuator gears and I'll probably just end up replacing it. My problem: Where exactly is the offending actuator? I've removed the glove box and noted one located on the left side. I unplugged this but am still getting the ratcheting sound so it obviously isn't the culprit. I had this happen a few years back (same time of year) and out of ignorance and frustration solved it with a well aimed kick but the way it's acting this time I don't think I've got a big enough boot.
View 4 RepliesI have 98 ford explorer sport 4x4 does has a clicking noise coming from the front driveshaft that connects the transfer case to the front differential. At first we thought it was the front drivers side cv joint which we replaced. nothing changed. there is still a noise apparently coming from the front driveshaft. we can not tell if it is the front differential or the transfer case itself. The noise is being transfer through the front driveshaft. It sounds a bearing is going bad.
View 1 RepliesMy 1994 Chevy Suburban will not engage the front drive shaft. It has an electric actuator and it will not engage. the transfer case engages but not the front axal. When I shift the transfer case into 4Hi or 4Low it will shift itself but the light will not turn on. I have heared rumors that you might have to manualy connect it to the battery and have a kill switch in the cab. What is the problem and should I connect it manualy?
View 6 RepliesI just purchased an 05 cavalier and today a loud clicking noise started right down by the glove box. I have full a/c and heat. If I turn the climate control to recirculate the clicking stops. But now the orange engine light is on. I've heard it could be the blend door actuator from what I've read online. Would this cause the engine light to come on? The code reading from autozone was coolant leak/coolant low/thermostat something along those lines. But the engine light came on 3 hrs after the clicking started so I am thinking it's related.
Oh also (the clicking stops after the car warms up a bit)? I would love to just buy the part online and have a small place replace part. I cannot afford hundreds of dollars in labor. If that is the right part does the dash need to come out in an 05 Cavalier or can it be gotten to under the glove box?
I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe, and for the past couple of years, I have been having an incredibly frustrating issue with my car. When I go to turn the key, it sounds as if it is about to turn on (ie the engine is about to turn over and it sounds normal) then right before it catches, it will start clicking, the noise sounds like the battery is dead. When it first started happening, I called AAA, however by the time they reached me, the car had started again. Now when it occurs, I wait 10-15 minutes and it will start- every time. I have had it in to 4-5 different car repair shops, however no one can seem to figure out what it is. I have had the battery replaced, and several other things altered, etc, however nothing seems to fix the problem. I am not sure where to go from here, I was informed to check the fuel pump and/or filter yesterday- it happened twice on me yesterday as well.
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