Chevrolet - Suburban :: Dropping Out Of OD For A Split Second And Then Going Back In
Jun 14, 2012
I have a 1990 suburban that has had a rebuilt x-mission about 50,000 miles ago. At this time when I drive there is a hesitation, split second, when running on flat road. It happens when going up a hill, too.My mechanic said change the: plug wires, then the plugs and rotor. No difference.
I think the thing is dropping out of OD for a split second and then going back in. If I drive in 3rd, I don't think it is happening. Isn't there a relay or solenoid that controls this function?
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My diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
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97 Suburban 5.7. When starting, engine turns over normally, but every 2 seconds or so the motor will completely and suddenly stop rotating for a split second, then start cranking again. It is as if every few seconds there is a buildup of compression in a cylinder that won't allow it to turn over. It will eventually start and run normally, but i believe this has contributed to going through 3 starters within 20k miles. The starters are free (warranty) but getting tired of putting them in.
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Bad news kids... it's terminal. Took my 95 3/4 ton 4X4 6.5 diesel suburban in complaining of temp gauge going high and dropping, alternator... ball joint fears.... And I just got a call, it's got a cracked head. So this is how it ends. Husband aint never gonna fix it. I knew this day was coming. He said the temp gauge going high then dropping is some sort of coolant preasure build up and release. I seen it every morning for the last year. He said he took her up to 120 kms and it did exactly what I said. And he knows exactly what my problem is. It's true, Toni knows this truck. So any guesses how long I got? What will happen when it goes? When would you park it for good? My last over heat was a couple years ago when a belt blew off, big heat is the only thing that would have cracked a head right? So the crack might be that old. And it's sad news. Driving it since birth, 95.
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Got a weird problem with my 2008 2500HD 6.0L silverado. The problem is more noticeable within the first few miles That I am driving it. The cluster will basically power out for a split second & come back on. I notice it from the sound of the stepper motors all dropping off, then all the indicator lights illuminate & the gauges go back to the normal readings.
After this power cycle,the airbag light will be lit, & I will have to unbuckle, & rebuckle. then the airbag light will go out. I have a feeling if this isn't a common issue, its going to be a tough one to find seeing it happens so intermittently.
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My 6speed 05 mk4 gli is acting up!
The issue: when I'm driving (not every time) and letting the car coast to a stop after going about 30+mph lightly applying breaks, the car seems to die for a split second and come back to life. My radio turns off(restarts) headlights dim, heater fans die out. Rpms dip very low; but the car never totally dies or stalls.
I had my plugs changed recently thinking that was the the issue, but didn't work. Also my car is apr chipped. Another symptom is it idles pretty rough and lastly. Occasionally the car makes a funny high tuned sound that matches the rpm (ie revs up higher noise) ....
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I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx with a 3.5 L V6 engine. I bought it new ten years ago and it now has 71,000 miles. In the past year, I noticed that sometimes when I accelerated, the car hesitated for a split second. I assumed a transmission problem was around the corner. I recently had the car serviced and had the spark plugs and wires replaced. It is a 100,000 mile maintenance item but since the car was 10 years old, I decided to get it done. Ever since the plugs were replaced, the hesitation on acceleration problem has gone away. Is it possible that the problem was the spark plugs?
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2011 chevy malibu. 3 days ago on my way to work my car would hit about 2500 rpms and drop then go back 2500 and drop continously. I stopped turned it off and it ran fine. now I've noticed when taking off from a stop it's a jerking/quick (only once not multiple times) kind of go. It used to be very smooth. occasionally the rpm problem will return but less severe.
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I have a 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD with the 5.3L V8. Tahoe has 134K. At about 125K miles, I replaced air filter with a K&N, new OEM spark plugs and spark plug wires. The Tahoe has been running great and was getting normal mpg until recently. 15mpg in town and 17mpg on the road is what I normally get. The last 3 fill ups my mpg has been below 13.5mpg. Car still runs great but at 13mpg it's starting to hurt a little financially. Weather here in NC has been normal, my driving conditions or habits have not changed, etc. What could be causing my mpg to drop by so much while the suv still rides smooth and straight?
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I have a 1986 Chevrolet El Camino with a small V-8 engine. The vehicle has 150,000 miles on it. It starts and runs fine. It does not use oil. My problem is the oil pressure. After the car runs for a short time, the oil pressure starts dropping. It will drop all the way to 0 if I let it. I have had the sending unit replaced and it did not work.
I have had two mechanics look at it and they have not been able to solve the problem. One checked it with a mechanical gauge and confirmed the low pressure. He suggested a higher weight oil and an additive. The other mechanic's solution was to raise the idle speed. I have had this vehicle since it was new and always kept the oil changed and all other maintenance done. I would like to keep the vehicle and complete any repairs necessary.
My question: Is the engine repairable economically or does the engine need to be replaced and what is causing this problem.
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I have a 2000 chevy s10, it has a brand new battery and alternator. When the battery is charged the battery meter will keep dropping until the dash is completely off when I am driving, then i wont be able to start it unless i get a jump or charge the battery. why is the battery draining so quickly?
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I have a '93 Suburban, Its actually in great shape, except that the fan made some loud whining noises for about 45 minutes and doesnt work at all now. I have heat, but only when Im driving on the highway and only when the heat is actually turned to the "off" postion on the switch and I dont even have heat when slowly driving around town. The rear fan works, but blows cold too. Im not sure that even gets hot when Im moving, as I feel a cold breeze on my neck when I turn on the fan when Im driving. I dont think the ac works at all...just bought this truck, so havent tried it, and its cold out anyway, so I'll have to wait I suppose.
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If sensor or control module malfunction. Brakes are fine. If ABS relay, so where is it located, cant find in fuse box. This is a 1500 2WD suburban.
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Grill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.
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My 2003 Suburban shakes when I drive over 70 mph. I don't know if the tires need realignment?
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I have an '05 Suburban with starting issues. When it's cold out (below 40 degrees) and you turn the key, all accessories come on but truck will not crank. It then seems like the power just cuts off.......dash lights go out but gauges are fixed in place and a couple of seconds later, I hear a strange buzzing noise from the dash area behind the radio and the gauges will then go to power off position. Then if I try to start it, there is nothing, no lights on dash, no starter engaging, no clicking of the relays, nothing. I tried, on a hunch to disconnect the ground lead from the battery. Had it off for 10 minutes or so, put the cable back on, tightened it down (wasn't loose to begin with) and it started right up first try in 20 degree weather. I had previously had the battery and alt checked and both were good.
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2007 Chevy Suburban, 65K milesLet me start by saying I took this into to the dealer and they found nothing!
When I accelerate, I get a "flutter" in the engine. The best description of this flutter is that the RPMs go down about 200 or 300. I think it feels like it is sluggish when it accelerates. It is most obvious during the 35 - 60 MPH range, but you also see it when cruising at 70 MPH.
I tried adding some fuel treatment and ran some 93 octane through it to see if it was the fuel injectors, with no change in the behavior. No error messages or engine light is on. Regular oil changes and services (60K service, every 3K miles for oil change). Driving behavior has changed since I bought a Prius 3 months ago. It used to be driven 40 miles / day (+ long trips) and now is driven about 40 miles / week (+ long trips).
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1995 Chevy Suburban, currently at 150,000 miles, Prior owner had transmission rebuilt prior to 100,000 miles. While towing my 18ft camper trailer on a recent trip every time I started off from a stop I had to really push on the gas to get going. At first I though the emergency brake was on, or I had a flat tire. I then noticed the automatic transmission was not shifting when I had it in D. Checked the transmission fluid and it was full. The transmission seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I move the shifter to 2 it will shift down. Reverse is also still working. Am I in for a costly repair?
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I have random power drop off (best description is a loss then a surge or something like a skip) when driving over 60 mph. If I let off the gas or floor it the problem goes away temporarily. No mechanic has been able to figure it out. Chevy dealer just says "we don't have any codes".
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2002, Chevy, Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.3L engine, 210,000 miles. Mass airflow sensor and both O2 sensors replaced last year in an effort to fix this problem. Original problem surfaced when the vehicle was shut down or running uphill and had about 1/2 tank of gas in hot weather. If stopped, the vehicle would not start until it had cooled down. Sometimes getting it onto level ground would be enough to get it running again. ( This accomplished by turning on the key and allowing the vehicle to roll back out of the parking place. ) If running down the road, getting to level ground after the stall, pulling to the shoulder and cooling the engine/waiting a few minutes and restarting the vehicle would work. This was before the above mentioned repairs.
Last weekend in 60 degree weather I was driving back from northern Michigan and as I headed up hill at 75 mph with the tank at 1/2 the vehicle did a high speed stall on me. Symptoms were: RPM showed 2000, but pushing down on the gas actually dropped the RPM no matter how feather-footed I was. This was tried several times. I turned on the 4 ways and moved toward the shoulder and at 50 mph finally got the thing to restart. The rest of the trip home was uneventful.
I had a 2001 Suburban with the same specs which did this same thing until a factory recall that got me a new fuel pump. I asked about the recall the last time my truck was in for service and they said it does not fall within the serial numbers for that recall. Fuel filter replaced about 9 months ago. Co-incidentally but not necessarily related is that my battery with less than 3 years of a 7 year warranty was draining itself in less than 2 days this last winter.
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So the other day I was driving to my storage locker about 30 miles away. All of a sudden my rpms would shoot up to 2000 rpms then back down to 1500 . Slowly they would go up higher every time. On my way back I was about 2 miles away and I lost 3rd and 4th a presume. I would be going 20-25 and it felt like it would be shifting up to third but would shift down to 2nd running 3500 rpms. I had to go 20 the rest of the time. Finally I got home and realized my dipstick tube wasn't in the tranny and must have lost oil. So I got it back in and added more. Thought it was the filter and oil so dropped the pan and replaced it. Still nothing.
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