Chevrolet - Suburban :: Cold Air Blown For About 15 Minutes Then Turns Hot
Jun 27, 2012
My 04 Chevy suburban blows cold for about 15 minutes then turns hot...sometimes it will turn back cold, but not lately
View 2 RepliesMy 04 Chevy suburban blows cold for about 15 minutes then turns hot...sometimes it will turn back cold, but not lately
View 2 RepliesI have an '05 Suburban with starting issues. When it's cold out (below 40 degrees) and you turn the key, all accessories come on but truck will not crank. It then seems like the power just cuts off.......dash lights go out but gauges are fixed in place and a couple of seconds later, I hear a strange buzzing noise from the dash area behind the radio and the gauges will then go to power off position. Then if I try to start it, there is nothing, no lights on dash, no starter engaging, no clicking of the relays, nothing. I tried, on a hunch to disconnect the ground lead from the battery. Had it off for 10 minutes or so, put the cable back on, tightened it down (wasn't loose to begin with) and it started right up first try in 20 degree weather. I had previously had the battery and alt checked and both were good.
View 3 Replies2002 B5 1.8T, 54,000 miles. When you turn on the A/C it blows hot air. After 10 or 15 minutes of driving it turns icy cold then sometimes returns to hot air.
View 1 RepliesI have issues with engine starting when cold outside or after rain. This only happens when engine is cold and has not been started for a day or 2. Distributor cap does not have any condensation inside but does seem to corrode on contact points. Engine turns over fine, has fuel and spark. When this happens engine will not fire and after awhile it will start to fire and lock up when it fires then continue cranking. After repeated attempts it will start and run fine, can be shut off and start right back up with out any issues. It could take a few tries to a few hours of trying before running though. I'm leaning toward a distributor or timing issue. Am I on the right track? 98 Suburban K1500 5.7L ....
View 6 RepliesI have a 94 Chevy Suburban C1500 with a 5.7L, 350 Engine. It has 235,000 miles on it. I purchased it about 4 years ago with 191,000 miles in very good condition and obviously well maintained. I have continued to maintain it well.
For the past few months it has begun to start a little slower that before and when accelerating cold or warm there is a spot where it looses power. It doesn't sputter or die it just looses power. I can press the accelerator farther and it will come back to life and do fine. After a 20 -30 minute drive if I park for a while, 20 - 30 minutes, when I start it up it dies. The only way to keep it running is to give it the gas and smooth it out at about 1500 rpm for 10 - 15 seconds. Then I can drive it with no problem most of the time though it still has the dead spot on acceleration.
There is a good spray pattern from the throttle body injectors. Plugs and wires are relatively new and plugs look good (AC Delco Rapidfire Platinum). When I turn on the ignition without going to start, the fuel pump builds pressure for 4 - 6 seconds. I haven't checked the fuel pressure yet and am considering investing in the rig to do so. I recently replaced the fuel filter but that didn't work.
The check engine light has not come on but many of the lights in the cluster are burned out and I haven't felt like going to the trouble to fix that so it is possible that the check engine bulb is bad.
I have a 1986 Monte Carlo SS with 305 HO engine. Recently when driving along suddenly I have hot air blowing out of the vents, then in a few minutes it goes back to the cool air. This happens whether it is set to vent or air conditioner. How can I fix it??
View 8 RepliesI own a 2001 chevy impala 3.8 and I recently had a good friend of mine whose going to school as a mechanic install a manifold gasket upper and lower but now I am hearing this loud tick tick tick sound for about 2-3 min every time i start my car in the morning and then the noise goes away and its normal it never made this noise before is it harmful and break my engine or is it okay to just leave it....
View 12 RepliesMy fuse keeps getting blown, mechanically and emotionally. My 91 gmc suburban blows the a/c fuse every time i slide the a/c switch to any position. when the fuse goes my emergency brake light turns on and my speedometer stops working. one weird note, my engine seems to run very smooth after the fuse goes, to the point that im not even sure its running but it is. So my question is, where should i start looking to fix the problem? It's too hot/cold in here!"
View 2 RepliesThis morning everything worked on a 1999 Suburban 4x4. One hour later, my blinkers (turn signals) were not working. Flashers were.
I checked the fuse (fuse 16) for the turning signals - blown. I bought some fuses - replaced turn signal fuse. It blew immediately and then the hazards no longer worked. I replaced that fuse and the hazards lasted a few seconds.
Hazards & brake lights are on the same fuse (fuse 1) so I am left with no brake lights, hazards or turn signals - I am an accident waiting to happen!
I switched my cigarette lighter fuse for the hazards/brake light fuse - didn't start the car - and turned on the hazards. I heard the fuse blow immediately.
My husband put a new radio in last year at this time and has fog lights wired to it - but that was last year not last week...
I know trailer lights are attached to fuse 16 (turn signals). I bought this car used, but it does have a trailer hitch with wires that I have never used.
Where to even start looking for the short... a short that would cause the hazards/brake lights to short out also.
I had a slight head butting contest with a deer. My driver side AIR BAG BLEW OUT. I want to replace the air bag. ( I live in N.C. air bags are NOT required) so I don't care if it is functional. I just want it there un-blown, for looks. I've been told that a special tool is required to remove the old one ( and the one in a salvage truck I've located). What tool I need? Or what it might be called or where I can get one????
View 6 RepliesAs I mentioned in the title, I have a 1999 GMC Suburban with about 150000 miles. I love the car, but lately, it has been acting peculiar immediately after starting it. Whether hot or cold weather, the car will sputter, pop, backfire, buck and generally not get up and go for the first 3-5 minutes the engine is running. I can put the gas to the floor and the car continues to sputter along at about 20 mph - bugging the heck out of drivers behind me. If I do lay on the accelerator, however, the car will rev high RPMs as if it wants to go through the gears behave like it's in neutral.
After about 3 minutes of sputtering, the car will again start accelerating as if nothing is wrong. This happens every time I start it.
My A/C will blow cold for about 3 min. and then stop for 10 min......then cold again for 3 min.....then warm for 10 min.......what is going on ? It does this when on climate control and on A/C . I had a compressor go out about 1 1/2 yrs. ago due to a fan failing...the compressor tore apart... This is not acting like that though .
View 9 RepliesJust replaced the fuel pump in my 99 Suburban. Replacement is an AC Delco unit. When I tried to start it, nothing. Engine turns over but doesn't start. Checked all connections and getting voltage down to new harness. replaced relay from GM dealership and also fuel filter. I used to hear the old pump prime when turning on the ignition but don't hear anything with the new pump. Could it be a bad pump out of the box?
View 1 RepliesI can drive below 40 mph and nothing, once I hit the freeway engine light turns on and gears start slipping. I erase the code and it runs fine at first this would happen once in a while but lately its every time I get on the freeway. I cant keep driving and erasing the code, Every shop says I need to replace the transmission?
View 4 RepliesIf sensor or control module malfunction. Brakes are fine. If ABS relay, so where is it located, cant find in fuse box. This is a 1500 2WD suburban.
View 5 RepliesMy 2003 Suburban shakes when I drive over 70 mph. I don't know if the tires need realignment?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1990 suburban that has had a rebuilt x-mission about 50,000 miles ago. At this time when I drive there is a hesitation, split second, when running on flat road. It happens when going up a hill, too.My mechanic said change the: plug wires, then the plugs and rotor. No difference.
I think the thing is dropping out of OD for a split second and then going back in. If I drive in 3rd, I don't think it is happening. Isn't there a relay or solenoid that controls this function?
2007 Chevy Suburban, 65K milesLet me start by saying I took this into to the dealer and they found nothing!
When I accelerate, I get a "flutter" in the engine. The best description of this flutter is that the RPMs go down about 200 or 300. I think it feels like it is sluggish when it accelerates. It is most obvious during the 35 - 60 MPH range, but you also see it when cruising at 70 MPH.
I tried adding some fuel treatment and ran some 93 octane through it to see if it was the fuel injectors, with no change in the behavior. No error messages or engine light is on. Regular oil changes and services (60K service, every 3K miles for oil change). Driving behavior has changed since I bought a Prius 3 months ago. It used to be driven 40 miles / day (+ long trips) and now is driven about 40 miles / week (+ long trips).
1995 Chevy Suburban, currently at 150,000 miles, Prior owner had transmission rebuilt prior to 100,000 miles. While towing my 18ft camper trailer on a recent trip every time I started off from a stop I had to really push on the gas to get going. At first I though the emergency brake was on, or I had a flat tire. I then noticed the automatic transmission was not shifting when I had it in D. Checked the transmission fluid and it was full. The transmission seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I move the shifter to 2 it will shift down. Reverse is also still working. Am I in for a costly repair?
View 3 RepliesI have random power drop off (best description is a loss then a surge or something like a skip) when driving over 60 mph. If I let off the gas or floor it the problem goes away temporarily. No mechanic has been able to figure it out. Chevy dealer just says "we don't have any codes".
View 10 Replies2002, Chevy, Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.3L engine, 210,000 miles. Mass airflow sensor and both O2 sensors replaced last year in an effort to fix this problem. Original problem surfaced when the vehicle was shut down or running uphill and had about 1/2 tank of gas in hot weather. If stopped, the vehicle would not start until it had cooled down. Sometimes getting it onto level ground would be enough to get it running again. ( This accomplished by turning on the key and allowing the vehicle to roll back out of the parking place. ) If running down the road, getting to level ground after the stall, pulling to the shoulder and cooling the engine/waiting a few minutes and restarting the vehicle would work. This was before the above mentioned repairs.
Last weekend in 60 degree weather I was driving back from northern Michigan and as I headed up hill at 75 mph with the tank at 1/2 the vehicle did a high speed stall on me. Symptoms were: RPM showed 2000, but pushing down on the gas actually dropped the RPM no matter how feather-footed I was. This was tried several times. I turned on the 4 ways and moved toward the shoulder and at 50 mph finally got the thing to restart. The rest of the trip home was uneventful.
I had a 2001 Suburban with the same specs which did this same thing until a factory recall that got me a new fuel pump. I asked about the recall the last time my truck was in for service and they said it does not fall within the serial numbers for that recall. Fuel filter replaced about 9 months ago. Co-incidentally but not necessarily related is that my battery with less than 3 years of a 7 year warranty was draining itself in less than 2 days this last winter.