Chevrolet - Suburban :: 2001 - Engine Severely Lacking In Torque For The First Minute Or So Of Driving
Jun 3, 2014
I have here a 2001 3/4 ton Suburban. It arrived last fall with 280K miles and a 6.0L V8 that was on its last leg (low to no oil pressure). I dropped in a 5.3L that I had handy, and had been happily driving it throughout the brutal Minnesota winter.
A couple months ago I noticed an issue developing. After a cold start, the engine would be severely lacking in torque for the first minute or so of driving. You could reach any RPM you wished, but the truck could barely accelerate. Once a minute or so had passed in this fashion, the issue would suddenly disappear... you'd be thrown back in your seat a bit if still attempting to accelerate, and the truck would take off. For the remainder of the trip, things would be fine.
Recently I went to drive the truck after it had sat for some weeks. It started fine, but the issue was now more persistent. When trying to accelerate, the gutlessness would continue for a good 15-20 seconds until finally and suddenly disappearing. Let off the gas, wait a moment, try to accelerate again, and it was the same thing all over again. Eventually I also noticed very obvious stumbling/missing when trying to get moving from a dead stop. Idle remained smooth.
The plugs and wires are only a few months old. The fuel filter is new. I checked for vacuum leaks (none that I could find). Fuel pressure is consistently around 50psi, even while the issue is happening.
The MIL was not on. I checked with my scantool, and found that P0101C was set, with P0101 pending. Visually examined the MAF harness and sensor; all looked fine. Swapped in a used working MAF; no change. (I suspect these codes may be due to the fact that I'm running a 5.3 with a stock, unmodified 6.0 PCM.)
My scantool is a Genisys running System 2.0. I'm by no means an expert with it, but I did know enough to try watching the miss counts while the symptom occurred. All cylinders seemed to be missing equally as much as the others, more or less.
Normally I'd be suspecting the fuel pump and/or associated wiring was going bad, but the pressure seems fine. What I might be missing?
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2003 F150 5.4L Tow Package 140k miles... Had coils, all plugs/wires replaced two years ago due to vibe climbing hills. Now at startup in the morning for a minute or two during idle, the engine vibrates severely then subsides and runs fine rest of day. Doesn't do this every morning. Truck lives in FL. The issue is either temperature related or moisture related. Ford service has the truck presently and attempting to diagnose from an overnight stay. They already 'fixed' the problem last week by replacing #1 plug/wire and resetting the power control module (pcm) but two days later the problem came back. Tech said today that the plugs currently installed are Bosch (any issue with these plugs?)
2003 F150 5.4L 140k miles
2011 Expy 5.4L 44k miles
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I replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders. I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
Could having that screen out cause this problem? Having the engine die when deactivating the cylinders makes me wonder if maybe it's commanding all four at the same time, although the test shows each cylinder being controlled separately. Using a MODIS, not a TechII. I just got done putting in a new filter/screen to see if it would make any difference, and of course it didn't.
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I checked the cables, no corrosion and tight as a drum. I connected an OBD II computer to the plug under the dashboard and the computer replied that there were no trouble codes present. Is OBDII the proper code reader? none of these lights were on before I replaced the battery. now I have constant ABS, flashing Service ride control, change engine oil. The battery has not gone dead as of yet but the ampmeter is charging at about 16.5-17 volts. I disconnected the pos terminal while the vehicle was running and it continued to run even with the lights on.
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OK so - I had the rear axle bearings replaced, but I'm still hearing a rotational scraping noise while moving (whether gas is applied or not, or whether braking is applied). Gets slightly louder the faster I go. But when I turn, the noise goes away. It's hard to pinpoint where the noise is coming from. My wife swears it's in the front; to me it sounds like it's in the middle (so it would be being transmitted from the source).
I took it back to our mechanic, but he can't hear it very well - he admits that his hearing is not what it used to be (he's in his 70s). Only thing he hears is "gear noise in the rear"... meaning he'd have to replace the differential in the back which would be prohibitively expensive and not worth it. He said I should come back in a couple weeks when his younger employee will be back so he can listen for it.
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I have noticed a louder noise and increase in vibration during driving at speeds of 70mpg + ... What is the cause??
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My diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
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How do I adjust the parking brake on my 2001 Suburban? It is a 2wd 1500 model.
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1995 C1500 Suburban (diesel) ... Felt like the transmission started to slip. And then it slowly started to "idle down while driving". thought maybe out of fuel, so i filled it up. When i turned out of the Gas station it died. about 20 minutes later, it started up but still didn't seem to run at full strength. No engine lights on or anything, light all still worked fine, just the engine shut off on me.
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My girlfriend's 2001 cavalier has about 160k on it and about a week ago it started shifting harshly accelerating to highway speeds and the CEL came on along with the traction control/abs warning light. I pulled the OBD2 code and it was P0742, Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On. We took it to the transmission shop down the street the next day and they wanted $600 to diagnose. We called 'shenanigans' and decided she should take it to her regular shop. On the drive over the transmission shifted normally. Both shops noticed that the transmission cooler lines were rusty and seeping, but neither thought it was the cause of the problem. The shifting issue hasn't recurred even after a couple hundred miles during the week. She hasn't had the transmission fluid changed and doesn't know if it had been when she bought it about 80k miles ago. It seems to me that pre-emptively draining the fluid, changing the filter and refilling, especially to check for debris in the fluid, would make sense, especially if it was debris jamming the circuit that caused the error code in the first place.
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2007 Chevy Suburban, 65K milesLet me start by saying I took this into to the dealer and they found nothing!
When I accelerate, I get a "flutter" in the engine. The best description of this flutter is that the RPMs go down about 200 or 300. I think it feels like it is sluggish when it accelerates. It is most obvious during the 35 - 60 MPH range, but you also see it when cruising at 70 MPH.
I tried adding some fuel treatment and ran some 93 octane through it to see if it was the fuel injectors, with no change in the behavior. No error messages or engine light is on. Regular oil changes and services (60K service, every 3K miles for oil change). Driving behavior has changed since I bought a Prius 3 months ago. It used to be driven 40 miles / day (+ long trips) and now is driven about 40 miles / week (+ long trips).
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2002, Chevy, Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.3L engine, 210,000 miles. Mass airflow sensor and both O2 sensors replaced last year in an effort to fix this problem. Original problem surfaced when the vehicle was shut down or running uphill and had about 1/2 tank of gas in hot weather. If stopped, the vehicle would not start until it had cooled down. Sometimes getting it onto level ground would be enough to get it running again. ( This accomplished by turning on the key and allowing the vehicle to roll back out of the parking place. ) If running down the road, getting to level ground after the stall, pulling to the shoulder and cooling the engine/waiting a few minutes and restarting the vehicle would work. This was before the above mentioned repairs.
Last weekend in 60 degree weather I was driving back from northern Michigan and as I headed up hill at 75 mph with the tank at 1/2 the vehicle did a high speed stall on me. Symptoms were: RPM showed 2000, but pushing down on the gas actually dropped the RPM no matter how feather-footed I was. This was tried several times. I turned on the 4 ways and moved toward the shoulder and at 50 mph finally got the thing to restart. The rest of the trip home was uneventful.
I had a 2001 Suburban with the same specs which did this same thing until a factory recall that got me a new fuel pump. I asked about the recall the last time my truck was in for service and they said it does not fall within the serial numbers for that recall. Fuel filter replaced about 9 months ago. Co-incidentally but not necessarily related is that my battery with less than 3 years of a 7 year warranty was draining itself in less than 2 days this last winter.
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My engine revs up no matter if the thing is hot or cold when I come to a stop at a red light, SOMETIMES. Other times it will idle at 100 and then wants to idle around 1000 and has idled as high as 1200. I've been told EGR, TPS, Idle Control Motor, or Intake gaskets. I did have a code 22 which occurred after a friend unplugged the TPS and reconnected it, but no other codes or check engine lights. Tuned engine 2 weeks ago, but problem still persists. Where do I start and what equipment do I need. I am a professional diesel tech, but not so much with gas.
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My Burb starts right up when the engine compartment is cold. Can barely touch the key and the thing fires right up.
Once engine compartment is hot (operating temp), I shut off the motor, let it sit for a few minutes and I get about 3-5 seconds of dry start each time I start it. It fires right up, runs great after that dry start period.
The dry-start behaves as if it's starved for fuel for those 3-5 seconds.
It's a K1500 with a stock 5.7l (350 ci). 180,000 miles and the entire drivetrain runs like a top. Only mod I've made is a K&N cold air intake.
Here's what I've done/changed recently (i.e. within the past 5k miles):
Fuel pump, OEM installed by dealer.Fuel filter.Ignition control module, BWD.Ignition coil, BWD.Crankshaft position sensor, GM OEM.Engine coolant temp sensor, BWD.Oxygen sensors (all four), GM OEM.Catalytic converter, replaced one of the two.Plug wires, BWD.Plugs, Delco OEM.Distributor cap and rotor, BWD.Cleaned ground connection (bolts to frame) for fuel pump.Alternator, new not reman.PCV valve.Battery.
Full diagnostics by a very qualified shop two weeks ago, no bleedback from injector spider, fuel pressure solid and holds perfectly. After 90 minutes of troubleshooting, the mechanics finally gave up.
One last thing with potential that I can think of is that I started running ethanol-free gas around the same time this issue surfaced. Not at the exact time, but at a relatively similar time. Gas mileage has increased by 40% and power increased, hard to blame "bad gas."
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My '97 Chevy Suburban diesel dies at random times. Nothing seems to trigger it; it usually happens when I'm just driving along, minding my own business; not accelerating or decelerating, turning, stopping, etc. Has happened with the fuel tank at every level: full, half full and quarter tank. When it dies, the dashboard lights do NOT come on. When I turn the key "off" and back "on", the lights come on and the engine will crank fine, but won't start. Ten minutes later, it starts and everything is fine. It may not do it again for weeks, or it may do it again in 10 minutes.
This last time, the fuel tank was fairly low -- below a quarter tank -- and it seems to "buck" or "hesitate a little just before it died the first time. The dealer replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the fuel injector pump. When it started doing it again, they ran every diagnostic test they had and could find nothing wrong. Ran fine for a few weeks, then quit three times in 30 minutes. It's back there now.
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I have issues with engine starting when cold outside or after rain. This only happens when engine is cold and has not been started for a day or 2. Distributor cap does not have any condensation inside but does seem to corrode on contact points. Engine turns over fine, has fuel and spark. When this happens engine will not fire and after awhile it will start to fire and lock up when it fires then continue cranking. After repeated attempts it will start and run fine, can be shut off and start right back up with out any issues. It could take a few tries to a few hours of trying before running though. I'm leaning toward a distributor or timing issue. Am I on the right track? 98 Suburban K1500 5.7L ....
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2003 Chevy suburban, 115K miles, accelerating I hear a squeal/groan/clicking noise coming from right front of engine. Did not happen this winter, started again in spring. Loses power if stay on accelerator. If let off and then reapply, it will momentarily go away. Appears to be only when air conditioning on. Bad AC or just the pulley?
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I am after to find which USB cable and software can be used on my wife's ... 5/05 v6 Santa Fe to check the error codes. The car is revving up and down when cold and lacking power when warmed up, I'm guessing it's a sensor but I need to find which one.
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I've got a couple of issues with a 2002, 2.7ltr v6 santa fe first off when taking off steady the car runs fine but taking off quickly it seems to lack power until it hits around 3000-3500rpm est then it takes off fine and all threw the upper rev range the auto seams sluggish but I'm not shore as I haven't driven another 2.7ltr as a benchmark. No error codes are present.
The second issue I brought a new keyless remote for the car and looked up a thread on how to program this they had reference to a set switch behind the fuse box behind the lower dash panel I went looking and found what I think is the remote receiver it has what is like a antenna cable plugged into it but no set-off switch at all is there any way to get this new remote programed or will it have to be done threw dealer or is there something I would be missing?
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I am working on a99 2500 4x4. 7.4 Replaced 230,000 engine with 90,000 engine.I had to fix a bad oil leak from the oil pressure sensor. Replaced it and delivered it.
Ran great Gal was driving at 50mph. Engine died and wouldn't start. She fried starter trying. Replaced starter, has no codes. 59-60 lbs fuel pressure with key on then holds 50 lbs. 60 lbs while cranking. Has spark at plug. NO security light staying lit or flashing. flashes then goes out. Smell of unburnt fuel is strong. Also no oil pressure at gauge when cranking and her key fob doesn't work.
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I have a 2001 santafe with a 4 cyl The code 102 was up so I replaced the mass air flow censer . I go on a test drive and the light stays off , but when I go to re start it again the light come on and stays on, with the same code. The only strange thing is the idle will raise for a min then drop down to almost a stall.
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