Well I just set the timing on my rebuilt chevy 5.7 1999 suburban. It still runs sluggish when I accelerate and idles nice when it'd parked. I rebuilt the whole part part of engine. This is what I did notice when I cleaned under the lower intake manifold where the fuel injectors plug in. Here is a attached picture.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 Chevy Suburban K1500 4 wheel drive. It has a 5.7 liter engine and has 360,000 miles. I recently had a fuel pump put in last year. It is now running sluggish when I accelerate it will not go. This happens after it seems to warm up about 15 minutes of driving. I just replaced the fuel filter thinking that it may have been plugged up but it is still running poorly. When I put the fuel pressure gauge on it, it read 61-62 during start up and then dropped down to 57-59 (pulsates rapidly) after I started it.
View 2 Repliescan i adjust idle on car, seems to be running faster without using gas pedal.
View 2 Replies2007 Chevy Suburban, 65K milesLet me start by saying I took this into to the dealer and they found nothing!
When I accelerate, I get a "flutter" in the engine. The best description of this flutter is that the RPMs go down about 200 or 300. I think it feels like it is sluggish when it accelerates. It is most obvious during the 35 - 60 MPH range, but you also see it when cruising at 70 MPH.
I tried adding some fuel treatment and ran some 93 octane through it to see if it was the fuel injectors, with no change in the behavior. No error messages or engine light is on. Regular oil changes and services (60K service, every 3K miles for oil change). Driving behavior has changed since I bought a Prius 3 months ago. It used to be driven 40 miles / day (+ long trips) and now is driven about 40 miles / week (+ long trips).
I have a 91 Mitsubishi gto TT. I love my car and i was really hoping to repaint it soon but this problem is becoming more apparent. My car runs fine for the first 15 minutes, runs like a beauty! but then once it is warmed up it starts to struggle. I cant accelerate hard because it hesitates alot. The problem im having is pin pointing the problem. Ive searched a lot of stuff on the web and some people have similar problems.
Could it be bad spark plugs and wires causing some cylinders not to run properly? If so then why does does it run fine for the first 10-15 minutes?
I'll probably have my plugs and wires changed to see if that changes anything.
I just dont understand why my car accelerates great when cold but when hot starts to run sluggish.
I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu 125,000 miles, 2.2 Engine that was running sluggish, noisy like needed oil (checked didn't) and check engine light was on. Took it to a repair shop and told needed an oil change, car still ran sluggish, told to drive it a day or so. Two days later, car wouldn't go over 50 mph, took it back and told needed air filter and mass air flow cleaned. After they did that, they told me the Catalytic converter needed replaced however they don't do that work. Within a week car would not run so had the cat replaced.
Car ran better but still not great. Took it to another place, spark plugs replaced, throttle body cleaned and fuel injector cleaner added to gas.Still the car ran sluggish and was making noise and check engine light was on. Took it to parts store to have code checked on check engine and said error in bank one of oxygen sensor. I replaced that, reset the light and am sure you know, it still runs bad and noisy and check engine light came back on. I am losing power on hills and big hills the engine rattles.
My 2000 Chevy Astro van started having problems whenever I accelerate, hesitating losing speed, and all I can possible tie it to is a new gas station where I filled up which said "May contain ethanol". I think the "service engine light" flashed on for a second but does not stay on.
Could bad gas or the ethanol be the problem? Would getting the problem codes read at a parts place work?
So here's the deal...my '99 Sub has developed the problem of the A/C running too cold and freezing up the evaporator.The specs call for the clutch cycle switch to shut off the compressor at 25 lbs-low side, and turn it back on at 45 lbs. With a static pressure of 120 lbs, ambient air temp of 85 degrees, engine idle 1200 RPM: when the system is turned on the compressor activates and the low side pressure stabilizes at around 30-34 lbs...the high side sits at around 180-200 lbs...fan on high, max setting on temp control, the middle-front register reads 28-36 degrees.
This is great for awhile until the evap freezes up and airflow is restricted. The lowside pressure will not drop down to 25 lbs to activate the switch to shut off the compressor. I even installed a new pressure cycle switch to no avail since the pressure will not drop enough to activate it anyway. So every half hour or so, I have to manually shut off the compressor at the control panel for about 5 minutes, and then start the process over again. The rear unit is controlled by the TXV and continues to function just fine (rear register temp 36-40 degrees).
I have just swapped a new Vortec V-8 engine into my 1999 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 4*4, now when I start the truck and put it into reverse (foot still on brake pedal), I let off of the brake and the next time I step on the brake pedal the truck stalls. What would be causing this? I have no error codes on the computer, my fuel pressure is good, I just replaced the fuel pump. I think that it might be a sensor somewhere, but I am not sure where to look.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 chevy k2500 suburban with a 7.4 liter engine. I had a tune-up two weeks ago, all was good. the next day I got a muffler put on, the guy said I didn't need dual mufflers, it was a waste of mufflers, and that I only needed a single muffler and single pipe. Well, after that I felt the truck was limited on power and acceleration. I could not pass or accelerate up hills. I took it up hwy 80 to Truckee and on the big hills it had no acceleration at all, When I got to Truckee I pulled off and listened and heard some unsettling noises from the engine. Took it to a shop, (weekend, no one open!) a 76 station was open everyday, they looked at it the next morning and said the engine is blown and I need a new engine. I was upset. I towed it to another place that I knew and trusted, they said the same thing. but they also said, "this muffler system is too small for this engine, this could have caused the damage." And other shops have agreed. Do I have a case?
View 19 Replies'99 K1500, 5.7L, 130K miles, regularly serviced and well maintained, no garage so sits out in weather. About 8 months ago we started to experience no starts after rains, engine would fire off, but not stay running, security light NEVER came on. Took to regular mechanic and had fuel pump replaced (needed it anyway), wiring "repaired" behind dash. No problems till last month, then same started again. Sometimes will start after 5-6 tries, other times will not start till 10-12 hours AFTER rain stops.
Security light came on ONCE while driving for 5 minutes, then went out. TSB's indicate possible corrosion in the Passlock sensor voltage, underhood or under body connections, may be reason. Where these are as I would prefer to check them myself to see if simple solution before pay mechanic to find the same. Since did not reoccur for a while after fuel pump replaced, are there connections that would have to be pulled to replace tank that may now be not sealing again with time? Any resource for wiring diagrams for Passlock path?
I am still trying to debug my 7.3 running sluggish in the 1200-1800 rpm range. The problem is intermittent. I checked the wiring harness under the valve covers to verify they are plugged in and there are no opens in the circuit. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the high pressure oil sensor.
This will run fine one time and a few miles down the road it will chug and smoke out the exhaust until I either get into the accelerator or back off and re press the accelerator. Again, it does it intermittently hot or cold.
I ran both a cylinder contribution test and perdels with a Snap On Verus. The cct passes everytime. The perdels have a couple of cylinders 5-6 and 8 fluctuate between 0 and 1.80% with #8 up to 2.5%.
My question is. Do the cylinders in the test correspond to the actual cylinders in the engine? Reason I am asking is the Verus does not follow the firing order on a gas engine. The cct is in order of 1-8 and I have to correlate the cct order to the firing order. Found this out the hard way when I had a bat cop on a 5.4 and replaced it only to have the same cylinder still show not firing.
I got out the graph leads and tested the cylinder and pulled the injector thinking it was bad. Everything showed good but the cct still showed it not firing. I had to unplug each coil and watch the cct to determine what the true cylinder in the test was. It turned out to mimic the firing order so I am asking out of concern that cylinder 3 in the perdels is really cylinder 3 or a different cylinder.
Btw, the perdels all show 0% if the transmission is in drive. I would have thought that a load on the engine would have showed higher perdel percentages with a load on it.
Lately I have been having problems loosing power. Truck wants to miss mostly going up hill and runs sluggish I'll pull off the road and let it idle for a minute and it will run fine. And it is only occasionally some days it don't happen at all and other days it happens quit often. New fuel filter, oil is good, had it on the scanner and isn't throwing any codes. Around 230k miles newer injectors.
View 10 RepliesMy 2003 6.0 truck lost most of its power. It has the SCT programmer. It used to run great it would roll coal really well then it slowly started to run worse. Now it runs really sluggish especially when its cold. IT takes forever to warm up. On the freeway when ur going a constant speed it bucks and jerks a lot. It won't roll coal anymore and just runs like crap. A mechanic said I had 3 bad injectors. But I don't believe it.
View 2 RepliesMy Sub makes a wonderful ticking noise that resembles a turn signal--it continues to tick until i apply the brakes. i have just replaced the brake switch and the noise is still there. All the lights on the vehicle are not illuminated while it is making the noise, it makes the noise while either driving or idling.
View 4 Replies93, 3.1 Left work the other day, started to back out of the spot when I noticed the car was a little louder than normal. Acted like it didn't have as much power. Luckily I don't live far so I went ahead and drove on home. Car was shaky and sluggish, not wanting to accelerate. My first instinct was the cat. was clogged, but I let someone else look at it and they determined that it was not the cat. A little later, looked under the hood to find that the water pump was spitting coolant up on the underside of the hood.
View 3 RepliesSo I put one more extra quart or oil in accidently, and my car started being sluggish while trying to accelerate, no backfiring, just some gray smoke, then the smoke went away, and it stopped being sluggish, the boys at work are emptying out the oil right now, is this normal? Like, the car is working perfectly fine now...
View 1 RepliesMy 2004 Touareg V10 TDI drives like something's not just quite right, although hard for me to put my finger on. Essentially it feels sluggish, like it doesn't downshift to accelerate as quickly as it should, and like the automatic shifting is slightly jerky. This stuff is all even more noticeable at slower speeds and going up hill, but I think it's true even on city streets.
It's happened a few times, going up a fairly steep hill, that it seems to lose power and I can't get it over 20 or 25 mph even flooring it. Then when I turn the vehicle off and then back on, it can go more or less like normal again. Still, "normal" feels to me like something less than it used to be. I've recently changed the oil and all the filters (air, oil, fuel).
The dealer's service department says they can't find anything and the computer is not giving any error codes, but I know that it's not driving right.
I just have a 1999 ES300 that is having a strange issue. I realize this is a toyota forum, but the engines should all be the same.
When you accelerate from a stop at full throttle, the car feels very sluggish moving up the RPM range, and acts as though it is missing and stumbling the entire way up. If you do the same acceleration at lets say 70-80% throttle its much faster and much smoother (like the car is supposed to be). Works just fine until the car hits like 55mph, then power just cuts out.
If I'm revving the car in park or neutral its the same story. Works well at part throttle, but full throttle it misses as its revving up. To me this seems like 100% some kind of weird electrical issue. I'm having a tough time tracking it down though.
Things I have done:
1. At one point i had an VVTi OCV code for the rear bank, so I've replaced both OCV filters, and removed tested and replaced the RH OCV valve (they were both working to spec, but the rear one had a little more play in it).
2. No codes by OBDii scanning.
3. Cleaned MAF
4. Checked intake hoses for rips (there are none)
5. TPS seems to be working well based on OBDii diagnostics.
I have a 2001, 2wd, XLT, Super Crew with 4.6L and 180000Kms. I am the 2nd owner and have owned it for roughly 6 years. Since owning it I have towed the following: a 1500 Boat, 1000lb full utility trailer, a 2700lb boat, and most recently (Last summer) a 3500lb dry weight/4000lb full 22 foot camper trailer. None of these items ever caused me any problems til mis summer with the camper.
I have always got check engine lights for the stupid coil packs. It seems like I would replace one and a different one would go. I was camping one weekend a short hour distance from my home when I pulled onto the main highway and began to accelerate up to highway speed but it was feeling sluggish picking up to 100kph. When I merged onto the highway it was not a flat piece of ground and was a small grade of a hill, but nothing big. Before getting to the top I started to hear a strange noise, almost like a rattling, and the check engine light started to flash. After breaching the hill, it picked up speed, the light went out, and everything seemed fine.
This happened twice last summer with no other problems. At the end of the summer I once again had a check engine come on...I had blown out a plug, had it fixed and replaced 2 more COPs but still had codes showing for CC, M, F, O, OH, C, E and EV. My reader also said Freeze Frame, and MIL on. I had the truck in in Nov/Dec for an emissions test and it was given a conditional pass due to codes reading but no Check Engine light at this time.
I want to keep this truck...I will be towing the camper again, buit I'm considering getting a different truck. As it is I know I already have to have air bags installed in the rear to level out the load when towing. Hopefully that will cut back on some of the acceleration drag. At present time I have a check engine on...I'll check it again and post what its reading but most likely the same stuff.
If sensor or control module malfunction. Brakes are fine. If ABS relay, so where is it located, cant find in fuse box. This is a 1500 2WD suburban.
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