Chevrolet - Suburban :: 1999 V8 Truck Stalls When Step On Brakes
Jun 7, 2011
I have just swapped a new Vortec V-8 engine into my 1999 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 4*4, now when I start the truck and put it into reverse (foot still on brake pedal), I let off of the brake and the next time I step on the brake pedal the truck stalls. What would be causing this? I have no error codes on the computer, my fuel pressure is good, I just replaced the fuel pump. I think that it might be a sensor somewhere, but I am not sure where to look.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
"step on gas, truck feel like it is pulling a house, slight buck, but with more gas it moves, it has good presure out the exhast, all wheels are turning freely, engine idles great has lots of power,"
tested, cyl pressure, fine
check engine timing, fine
made sure all wheels spin freely, fine
check all fluids, fine
slight pinging sound can be heard, from time to time from center of truck. I'm thinking torque convertor. Feels like engine is binding only when you put it in gear.
View 4 Replies
Tires have less than 10,000 miles on them, and air pressure is within 2 lbs left to right side.
New calipers.
New soft lines.
New hard lines.
New pads.
New rotors.
New ball joints.
New tie rod ends and center link.
New front axle universals.
Brake fluid and all other parts are less than 6 months old. I can let go of the wheel and the truck tracks straight, 10mph to 100 mph. Whether I am going 10 mph, or 100 mph, when i first step on the brakes the truck jumps right. Needless to say, the faster i am going, the worse it jumps.
After first brake application, truck tracks straight. Let go of the wheel and it tracks straight from 100mph to a dead stop with brakes applied after the initial jump. Whether I am hard on the brakes or gentle, it does not pull at all. Only on the initial step on the brakes.I am at a loss as to what the heck is wrong with it.
View 14 Replies
My Sub makes a wonderful ticking noise that resembles a turn signal--it continues to tick until i apply the brakes. i have just replaced the brake switch and the noise is still there. All the lights on the vehicle are not illuminated while it is making the noise, it makes the noise while either driving or idling.
View 4 Replies
2002, Chevy, Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.3L engine, 210,000 miles. Mass airflow sensor and both O2 sensors replaced last year in an effort to fix this problem. Original problem surfaced when the vehicle was shut down or running uphill and had about 1/2 tank of gas in hot weather. If stopped, the vehicle would not start until it had cooled down. Sometimes getting it onto level ground would be enough to get it running again. ( This accomplished by turning on the key and allowing the vehicle to roll back out of the parking place. ) If running down the road, getting to level ground after the stall, pulling to the shoulder and cooling the engine/waiting a few minutes and restarting the vehicle would work. This was before the above mentioned repairs.
Last weekend in 60 degree weather I was driving back from northern Michigan and as I headed up hill at 75 mph with the tank at 1/2 the vehicle did a high speed stall on me. Symptoms were: RPM showed 2000, but pushing down on the gas actually dropped the RPM no matter how feather-footed I was. This was tried several times. I turned on the 4 ways and moved toward the shoulder and at 50 mph finally got the thing to restart. The rest of the trip home was uneventful.
I had a 2001 Suburban with the same specs which did this same thing until a factory recall that got me a new fuel pump. I asked about the recall the last time my truck was in for service and they said it does not fall within the serial numbers for that recall. Fuel filter replaced about 9 months ago. Co-incidentally but not necessarily related is that my battery with less than 3 years of a 7 year warranty was draining itself in less than 2 days this last winter.
View 8 Replies
My 2007 4 cyl. Malibu does a shimmy and shake when I step on the brakes. It seems to be worse when traveling at a faster rate of speed then when driving around town.
View 7 Replies
Started having problems with my Chevy Malibu (1999, with 95,000 miles on it) while driving two times this week. Both times an alert warning flashed on my dashboard. The first time, flashed the brake check and ABS warning on the left side of the dashboard, and the second time the check oil and check battery warning on the right side. In both cases, after the warnings flashed, the car was still running, but stepping on the gas pedal resulted in no acceleration, but brakes still worked. The steering wheel also locks-up to the point where I can't turn any more. Both times, I stopped and shut off the engine, waited about 30 seconds and restarted, after which everything is fine and normal. The brake pads were changed recently, but not the rotors which may not be in very good shape.
I took the car to garage and found the belt is good, but I have replaced both the alternator and battery, and also changed the brake pads. Car ran fine for a day. Yesterday while driving, had another issue of the accelerator not working while in the middle of driving. Was going up a small hill, tried to accelerate, but stepping on the accelerator didn't do anything. A few seconds later, I could not press down on the pedal anymore (as if the car was off). Brakes worked, I could turn, and no warning lights. Turned off ignition, restarted the car, and everything was fine. Same problem with the accelerator as I first reported, but no problem with charging or turning the wheel, and no warning lights since the alternator and battery are new.
View 4 Replies
I have a 1990 chevy K2500 5.7 350 tbi with 255000 miles on the body and engine. transmission replaced at 200000. When I drive long enough for the truck to get hot (i.e., 10 minutes or so) if i put it in reverse to back into a parking space or my driveway, it just shuts off. i have had fuel filter and fuel pump replaced but what could cause this? it will stay on if I don't drive long enough to get hot.
View 1 Replies
My 1995 Chevy Silverado 1-ton diesel stalls with no warning at various times while driving, such as at intersections, on the freeway, coasting, idling. It may go days or weeks without doing it, then all of a sudden stall eight times in one day. My husband says it has sediment, such as rust, in the fuel tank causing it to clog the fuel line. We've replaced the fuel filter twice, and we keep the tank topped off with gas, but it still does this out of the blue at times. I no longer trust the vehicle and will not haul the horse trailer using it, which is why I have the vehicle in the first place. By the way, the problem began after the truck sat for several cold winter months due to drained batteries. After we replaced the batteries to get it running again, it began stalling like this on a semi-regular basis. If it is rust or sediment in the fuel tank, what can we do to fix that? Could it be something else causing the problem?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2004 f250 6.8L and recently I've notice the trick not running strong. Is hesitating when i step on the gas pedal. For example, I am driving on the feeder road and fixing to get on the freeway ramp, well i have to spent a bit harder on has pedal to gain speed, but it seems its struggling and I can hear muffler making like a flapping noise. Also when I am going between 40-65mph and I spent on it, the tricks kind of jerks and vibrates. Feels like its coming from transmission. I let go and step on it again and it goes away. What to check??
Miles : 96k
Year: 2004
No Check Engine Light
View 6 Replies
Starting about a year ago, "sometimes" when I step on the brakes and am turning the steering wheel, I loose the power steering. I took it to Ford and they said that this is a a known issue but they didn't say what it would take to fix it. Because this problem is intermittent it is very hard to get this fixed unless the mechanic can experience and verify the problem for himself...
View 14 Replies
I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban K1500 4 wheel drive. It has a 5.7 liter engine and has 360,000 miles. I recently had a fuel pump put in last year. It is now running sluggish when I accelerate it will not go. This happens after it seems to warm up about 15 minutes of driving. I just replaced the fuel filter thinking that it may have been plugged up but it is still running poorly. When I put the fuel pressure gauge on it, it read 61-62 during start up and then dropped down to 57-59 (pulsates rapidly) after I started it.
View 2 Replies
Well I just set the timing on my rebuilt chevy 5.7 1999 suburban. It still runs sluggish when I accelerate and idles nice when it'd parked. I rebuilt the whole part part of engine. This is what I did notice when I cleaned under the lower intake manifold where the fuel injectors plug in. Here is a attached picture.
View 1 Replies
I have a 99 chevy k2500 suburban with a 7.4 liter engine. I had a tune-up two weeks ago, all was good. the next day I got a muffler put on, the guy said I didn't need dual mufflers, it was a waste of mufflers, and that I only needed a single muffler and single pipe. Well, after that I felt the truck was limited on power and acceleration. I could not pass or accelerate up hills. I took it up hwy 80 to Truckee and on the big hills it had no acceleration at all, When I got to Truckee I pulled off and listened and heard some unsettling noises from the engine. Took it to a shop, (weekend, no one open!) a 76 station was open everyday, they looked at it the next morning and said the engine is blown and I need a new engine. I was upset. I towed it to another place that I knew and trusted, they said the same thing. but they also said, "this muffler system is too small for this engine, this could have caused the damage." And other shops have agreed. Do I have a case?
View 19 Replies
I have a 1998 Chevy K1500 4x4 which is experiencing issues on two fronts: brakes and general operation.
For the brakes, over the last couple years, we have replaced just about every part of the system, including - master cylinder - calipers - brake lines. In addition, in the last week, I worked with a local mechanic to bleed the lines and he turned the rotors as well. The result is that while the truck does stop, the pedal height is still really high and feels like there's no pressure until the pedal's nearly to the floor. I get the feeling that if I needed to stop abruptly or at a higher speed than 35mph, I wouldn't be able to. I'm not sure what needs to happen next.
As to the general operation: the first time I start the truck on any given day, it fires up and runs smoothly. If I take it across town, however, and put it in the park, it gasps, sputters, and dies. It is then very difficult to get the vehicle to start again--usually, I have to push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and grind the starter until the engine turns over. After that, I have to keep my foot on the accelerator for 15-30 seconds at around 3000 RPM as the truck shudders and lurches, until it smooths out. Once I put it into drive or reverse, however, it dies, unless I am quick to push the accelerator again. Until recently, the truck had only been driven four times in the last two years or so. So far, I have: - replaced the air filter - added fresh gas (to the old) - added an engine treatment (Sea-Foam) Everything I have done is stuff that needs to be taken care of anyway, and I want to take care of all the little things before I take it to a dealership to have a full diagnostic run on it. I also plan to have an oil change done on it this week.
View 5 Replies
Love my 2012 TDI SEL. Lately I have noticed that it seems that the AC cuts out when I step on the brakes. I typically notice when I get off the freeway and come to a stop at the end of the off-ramp. The air coming out of the vents will be warm for some 5 - 10 seconds then get cold again.
I have also noticed this symptom from time to time when cruising along on the freeway. I know that some cars will disengage the AC if you really step hard on the gas, but that's not what's going on here it seems..... I have never had that happen in any other car. Is this normal for the 2012 Passat?
View 4 Replies
I have a problem I have been struggling with for the last year.... Here are the main symptoms:
- Engine stutters and sometime stalls ONLY in 3rd and 4th gear
- 1st and 2nd gear has NEVER given us a problem
- The outside temperature has to be above 75 degrees. The truck ran great all winter, but last week with the first warm day, acted up again
- There has to be a sizable load (6 adults, full tank of gas)
- gets much worse going up hills (again load)
Not sure if it is related but one time in the winter, the truck stopped blowing heat. If I turned off the fan, the system would "build up" heat but then as soon as I turned it back on, the heat would stay for maybe 30 seconds and then fizzle out back to cold air. This happened only on the coldest day of the year. The heat has been decent the rest of the time.
Last year they replaced the crankshaft position sensor like 4 times, then claimed it was the ECM, replaced that and it still acted up. Then they finally said it was some corrosion in the wiring harness. However by the time they got through with it, it got cold enough outside where it didn't act up any more.
View 6 Replies
Lately when I am coming to a stop and roll up to a stoplight/sign in gear the rpms drop too much and it stalls. I let the clutch back out and it starts back, but will stall again if I coast in gear again.
If I just push in the clutch without the rpm's coming up like to change gears it doesn't stall, only when I downshift when stopping and then once I push in the clutch the rpms drop and don't recover.
Truck runs great otherwise, new motorcraft icp and cps doesn't work. Thinking maybe ipr, but idk. I can rev it in neutral and it doesn't stall only when it's under load coasting, it's like the injectors don't recover from being off while coasting in gear.
View 11 Replies
I had a 2008 Prius. I travel to a town which is at 7300 feet sea level. When up in the altitude and when I step on the brakes, I hear a clicking or Ping. When I get back to Phoenix, it goes away. I talked to the local dealer in the mountains and he said he has had several people ask him about this. He asked the Toyota Tech experts and they cannot tell him why this is happening. I now have a 2012 Prius and the same thing happens.
View 1 Replies
When I step on the brakes during traffic & released it to roll the wheels, I hear the brakes squeaking a few rounds & then it will disappear. It sounds like the brake is still engage with the rotor & doesn't fully release until a few roll. This happens more during warmer days.
View 6 Replies
My 2001 Corolla gurgles when I step on the brakes. It seems to be getting louder and louder. This has been going on for 4 months or so..... I'm afraid somethings going to blow.....This happens when the car has been running for a while. I went to the garage, turned the car off and waited for 10 minutes to talk to the mechanic.Of course when I turned it on there was no noise when I stepped on the brake pedal...the mechanic wants me to bring it in this week. What this could be?
View 7 Replies
