Chevrolet - Suburban :: 1995 - Transmission Started To Slip / Slowly Idle Down While Driving
Aug 28, 2014
1995 C1500 Suburban (diesel) ... Felt like the transmission started to slip. And then it slowly started to "idle down while driving". thought maybe out of fuel, so i filled it up. When i turned out of the Gas station it died. about 20 minutes later, it started up but still didn't seem to run at full strength. No engine lights on or anything, light all still worked fine, just the engine shut off on me.
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1995 Chevy Suburban, currently at 150,000 miles, Prior owner had transmission rebuilt prior to 100,000 miles. While towing my 18ft camper trailer on a recent trip every time I started off from a stop I had to really push on the gas to get going. At first I though the emergency brake was on, or I had a flat tire. I then noticed the automatic transmission was not shifting when I had it in D. Checked the transmission fluid and it was full. The transmission seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I move the shifter to 2 it will shift down. Reverse is also still working. Am I in for a costly repair?
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I bought a 2002 camry last month. It has 180k on it, and the previous owner says he never had the trans fluid changed.
It started to slip, so I parked it and I had it towed to a trans shop. Of course, they immediately say I need a trans rebuild.
My house was close, so I drove it home without any issues.
What are the chances that a fluid change will correct this for a little while atleast?
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I have a Honda Odyssey with 154000 miles on it. In February it started to slip when putting it into drive. I thought this was due to the cold snap. The slip/delay grew until it would disengage from gear when driving. Eventually it was not safe to drive and I had it towed to a transmission shop. They have replaced the TCU, the torque converter arm & the transmission & the ring kit. He has told me that he won't charge more than he originally quoted me, but when I went out there yesterday nothing had changed (it was still on the lift with the exhaust & undercarriage on the floor) since two days prior when he told me it would be done on Friday. Do I have any recourse, and how do I make him finish this job?
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I have a 94 C2500 suburban with a TBI 454BB. Obviously, I'm not concerned with fuel mileage, but I am currently getting about 4 miles to the gallon because the idle is stuck at 1800RPM. Normal idle for my model according to the index book is 750RPM. it's usually pretty close to that when operating normally (+/-25RPM). 3 days ago I did my biannual throttle body cleaning. Took it completely off replaced the gasket cleaned the throttle body and put it all back together. This is when the problem started... It now idles at 2300 RPM, it threw the code for bad idle air control valve, and I figured I probably got the plug wet when cleaning the throttle body, so I went ahead and ate the 60 bucks and replaced it.
Went through the reset process for the ECM to learn the new one and it the idle has come down to 1800RPM, it also literally DUMPING fuel through the injectors into the top of the throttle body. While I don't believe it is actually running rich, it seems more like the idle is trying to compensate for the excess fuel that is being dumped into the top end. Now, Before I go any further I want someone else's input. "I" think it is a also a bad throttle position sensor that probably got wet when cleaning the TB. But I am worried it could also be the PCM has finally gone out, although this is probably not likely because the entire ignition is run by this and if it was bad, it would stand to reason that it wouldn't run at all. Or it could be a bad vacuums control module. I have checked all my vacuum lines and do not have any leaks, so I know that isn't the problem. So that's where I am. I am hoping to check the leads on the TPS today with a ohm meter. I know my resistance levels.
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OK so - I had the rear axle bearings replaced, but I'm still hearing a rotational scraping noise while moving (whether gas is applied or not, or whether braking is applied). Gets slightly louder the faster I go. But when I turn, the noise goes away. It's hard to pinpoint where the noise is coming from. My wife swears it's in the front; to me it sounds like it's in the middle (so it would be being transmitted from the source).
I took it back to our mechanic, but he can't hear it very well - he admits that his hearing is not what it used to be (he's in his 70s). Only thing he hears is "gear noise in the rear"... meaning he'd have to replace the differential in the back which would be prohibitively expensive and not worth it. He said I should come back in a couple weeks when his younger employee will be back so he can listen for it.
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I have noticed a louder noise and increase in vibration during driving at speeds of 70mpg + ... What is the cause??
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My diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
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I replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders. I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
Could having that screen out cause this problem? Having the engine die when deactivating the cylinders makes me wonder if maybe it's commanding all four at the same time, although the test shows each cylinder being controlled separately. Using a MODIS, not a TechII. I just got done putting in a new filter/screen to see if it would make any difference, and of course it didn't.
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I have here a 2001 3/4 ton Suburban. It arrived last fall with 280K miles and a 6.0L V8 that was on its last leg (low to no oil pressure). I dropped in a 5.3L that I had handy, and had been happily driving it throughout the brutal Minnesota winter.
A couple months ago I noticed an issue developing. After a cold start, the engine would be severely lacking in torque for the first minute or so of driving. You could reach any RPM you wished, but the truck could barely accelerate. Once a minute or so had passed in this fashion, the issue would suddenly disappear... you'd be thrown back in your seat a bit if still attempting to accelerate, and the truck would take off. For the remainder of the trip, things would be fine.
Recently I went to drive the truck after it had sat for some weeks. It started fine, but the issue was now more persistent. When trying to accelerate, the gutlessness would continue for a good 15-20 seconds until finally and suddenly disappearing. Let off the gas, wait a moment, try to accelerate again, and it was the same thing all over again. Eventually I also noticed very obvious stumbling/missing when trying to get moving from a dead stop. Idle remained smooth.
The plugs and wires are only a few months old. The fuel filter is new. I checked for vacuum leaks (none that I could find). Fuel pressure is consistently around 50psi, even while the issue is happening.
The MIL was not on. I checked with my scantool, and found that P0101C was set, with P0101 pending. Visually examined the MAF harness and sensor; all looked fine. Swapped in a used working MAF; no change. (I suspect these codes may be due to the fact that I'm running a 5.3 with a stock, unmodified 6.0 PCM.)
My scantool is a Genisys running System 2.0. I'm by no means an expert with it, but I did know enough to try watching the miss counts while the symptom occurred. All cylinders seemed to be missing equally as much as the others, more or less.
Normally I'd be suspecting the fuel pump and/or associated wiring was going bad, but the pressure seems fine. What I might be missing?
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Seems lately when driving up a long incline the Trans seems to slip back to third gear from overdrive. I watched the tach and it jumps up like it's went to another gear. But goes right back into overdrive. It will keep doing this as long as we're under load, like going up an incline. If I put it manually into 3rd and keep it there it won't do it.
We went on a long trip last summer and it kept doing it and it threw a tourque converter code. I can't remember which one tho. I did a drain and fill and it made it better but it's doing it again. We have 167,500 miles on it. I was told by Hyundai that it would be around $2800 for a rebuilt tranny. If I was to need one. Don't think the TPS would cause the shudder right? Seeing it doesn't do it when I keep it out of overdrive.
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I'm about 100 miles into the break in period and I knew there would be chatter at idle but there also seems to be a lot of chatter driving around especially accelerating slowlyish from under 3,000 rpms in 4th. Is this normal or do i have a possibly botched install?
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Around 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on high speed but not low and this blows never).
The diagnostic fee if it isn't the resistor is $60 an hour so I have a feeling it will be cheaper to just swap out all the parts. I have a feeling it is the relay but I am worried that since I can tell the engine changes idle when I turn the AC on it isn't, though I do not know for sure. Also if it is the relay there are three relays against the firewall and I am not sure which it is as the cases on them all appear to the untrained eye to be identical. Included is a picture. Which relay is the blower relay.
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My wife has a 95 chrysler town and country. We got it used. Six months and after we got the transmission started slipping around 30 or 35 mph. It was like the van would just go into neutral, take your foot off the gas and it would work properly when the gas was reapplied. I took it to two tranny shops. Both said there was nothing to do but wait for it to die. Four years and 25000 miles later it is still running. while the slipping problems seems to have stopped, it developed a new quirk. Every 4 or 5 months when entering a freeway, it will not shift into overdrive. Hence 5000 rpm at 55 mph. I'll exit the freeway. Get to a safe spot. Turn the car off and restart, the problem will be gone and if i drive on the freeway it will shift normally. It has a few other issues ac, struts etc. If the tranny is going out why fix these things? On the other hand if there is still life in it, maintaining is cheaper than replacing..
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All week the truck was acting like the clutch was slight depressed when first taking off and then today i was driving and the underside of truck started smoking like crazy and slowly lost all the gears could put it in any gear and nothing just was acting like it was being revved. does this mean clutch is bad?
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I have a 98 Suburban with a 4l60e rebuilt 13 months ago, less than 15000 miles since. I have no second gear at all, but still no apparent slip at all in fourth. R,1,3 are fine. The fluid is a bit dark red, smells normal. There was a bit of the grey paste on the magnet but no obvious trauma. I did find a very small copper wire in there. It's about a 22 gauge, looks like it could have been a 3/8" ring or retainer.
I've replaced the servo, and of course fluid and filter. I pulled off the housing for the 1-2 piston but didn't have the right part to replace. I did not see anything cracked or cocked, it came out and went in fine. The main o ring did look fairly warn, but seemed all-right.
A transmission tester showed second gear being called for on a test drive. I did get a P1870 slippage code a couples weeks ago, I have since cleared it and it has not returned. Could the copper 'ring' be a retainer for something related? I'm guessing the solenoid, but I believe it also applies to 4th gear.
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I have a 95 Silverado 1500 with the 5.7 V8 that cuts out when the pedal is held just above idle. If I am just driving normally as in pulling up to a stop sign and leaving with moderate acceleration it is fine and I don't notice any problems at all. The time I really notice it is when I am backing a trailer up and have to hold the pedal just above idle. It acts like the fuel is just being shut off to all cylinders. When I let off the gas it will sound like it is going to die and then it will come back to idle and idle perfectly. I was told it was probibly the PCV valve and I figured that for a few bucks I didn't have much to loose but that didn't work. I am thinking it has to be a sensor but I may be wrong.
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My 1995 chevy c1500 cuts out at idle or the moment the brakes are applied to shift into drive. I replaced the passenger wheel cylinder and bled the brakes and it ran fine for a few hours, then the idle problem stated again. I have check the map senor and a few other electronic component as my mechanic said the problem " might be electrical."
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I have a 1995 Mustang convertible 3.8. Shakes when its started at an idle and as u push the accelerator, the shaking gets worse, in park, neutral, drive, doesn't matter. I have replaced plugs, wires, coil, torque convertor. I took it to precision auto tune and they said everything checked out computer wise but there is deffinately something wrong. Car shakes so bad its insane.
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We have owned a 95 Camry V6 for 20 years and it has always been reliable. However, several days ago, the car started to have its first engine performance issue. When we start the engine cold, there was rough idle/engine lope. If it was warmed up for about 5-10 minutes, the car was fine for the entire day. but during this rough idle, the car jerked slightly as well if i press on the gas.
Since the symptom began, I took it to local shop A and they replaced all the spark plugs, pcv valve and air filter which did not solve the rough idle/looping problem. The rough idle continued, and few days later, I was unable to start the engine though it cranks. (at least that's what I think it does). Had it towed to shop B and they've replaced oil pump, which they thought to be the problem. I took it home, and the next morning I found myself unable to start the car.
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1995 Chevy Saburban, currently at 150,000 miles, Prior owner had transmission rebuilt prior to 100,000 miles. While towing my 18ft camper trailer on a recent trip every time I started off from a stop I had to really push on the gas to get going. At first I though the emergency brake was on, or I had a flat tire. I then noticed the automatic transmission was not shifting when I had it in D. Checked the transmission fluid and it was full. The transmission seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I move the shifter to 2 it will shift down. Reverse is also still working.
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