Chevrolet - Silverado :: When Cold It Idles At 30 Mph Plus
Mar 30, 2016
I have a 98 Silverado with 5.0 liter, 2 wheel drive. When cold it idles at 30 mph plus. When warmed up it runs just fine. This can be very challenging in icy weather. I have changed the temp sensor, cleaned mass air sensor, etc.
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I have an 88 chevy K-1500 4x4 5.7L ... My truck lacks serious power, it idles rough, sometimes wont idle at all, sometimes Truck Idles fine. I have adjusted the timing to tdc, and 4 deg. both ways still runs like crap.. Sometimes I can keep it idleing, put it in rev. or drive, and it will die. I have no power and if I put my foot in it too much it will backfire. but will only backfires when in gear and press on the gas to put a load on the motor. I have replaced the: tps, map, egr, pcv, distributor, cap, ignition coil, rotor, plugs, wires, timing chain, both sprockets cam and crank, checked all hoses for leaks, replaced the injectors, the O2 sensor and have changed the intake gaskets. And am still having no luck...... I am bout to just drop an M80 in the gas tank and watch her burn..
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I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado (4x4 Extended Cab 5.3 L Engine) that only seems to "heat" the interior of the vehicle through the floor and dash vents. Hot air comes out of the vents no matter what I do ( I can direct this flow of hot air to the floor, dash, or both) . Even whe I use the A/C at the coldest selection it does not change the fact that HOT air is coming out of the vents. I am guessing that a door of some sort is "stuck" so that only engine heat is coming into the cab. Not sure if that is possible but just a thought. Whats going on?
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I am sure some of us have heard and read the no oil pressure situation. i had it happen to me and I replaced the oil pump and pick up tube all new oe gaskets with the replacement. i still have the same problem. No oil pressure and the tick sound.
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I have a 2002 Silverado. I am having problems with it starting. I turn the key to on, and nothing!! A friend told me how to reset or reprogram the key, turn to on 10 minutes 3 times. This does work, but it might be a day before it starts. I don't have a key with a chip in it, it's a regular key. Looking for info on bypassing the whole system.
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I have a 1997 Chevrolet Z71 4x4 truck. 350 engine.
This morning I went to start the vehicle and it cranks fine but doesn't turn over. It cranks at a normal speed and then every second or so struggles, and then cranks normally again. About 2 weeks ago I went to start it and the starter didnt engage, it just spun. I released, tried again and it started right up. It did that twice over about two weeks. I figured the starter had gotten too weak, so I replaced.... No change.
The truck has been running quite rough for a little while, and I was doing research to replace the valves and sensors that were recommended (EGR and Idle Air Valves), but the truck seems to have decided that I will do this maintenance now, whatever it is. By running rough, I mean, when it idles, it shakes some. Going down the highway, it runs fine and doesn't miss or anything like that. It is sluggish, but it is a 16 yr old truck with 230000 miles, so it just seemed somewhat normal.
I have checked for spark, and verified that. I can smell fuel when I crank, so I don't think its a fuel problem, although tomorrow I will see if it will fire off starter fluid to verify. I have had the rotor go out before, but it seems when it did that it didn't stagger when I crank.
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2000 Silverado 5.3So I recently replaced my head gaskets. And I think I'm finally done working on this truck when I took it for a long drive and it did a little sputter and then backfired. I thought it was nothing since after the backfire it went right back to running perfect. Then again another day it did it again. Sputter. A loss of power and the BANG backfire and it was back to running like new. At first it was very rare. Maybe once every other day. Now its doing it 2-3 times on a normal drive to work. And it will idle rough during one of these spells as well now. When it starts to sputter and lose power I can throw it in neutral and rev it a few times. Once it backfires it's back to running like new. Only codes I'm getting are o2 sensors but I have no cats. Just straight pipes from headers to a turn down exhaust. I was thinking maybe a fuel regulator but I had replaced that just a few months ago. Could it have already gone bad? I changed my fuel filter not long ago and cleaned injectors and rails when replaced head gasket.
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My 2001 Chev Silverado 1500, 5.3L, 260,000 K miles may finally be near the end - It has been running great until this week. I live in Portland - weather was down to about 10 deg F a few nights and when it warmed up again the trouble started. After starting cold and driving for about 15 minutes it starts stalling out.
Sometimes it will fire right up again and I'll hardly notice except for a momentary drop to 0 on the tach. Other times I'll have to pull off to the side to the road and restart it. However, 2 times now it would not restart and stay running. It would either fire up but then die within 10 seconds, or it would just crank. Both those times it did restart successfully after 40 minutes had passed total and it drove fine afterwards until I got where I finished my commute (about another 5-10 minutes of driving).
I took it to a mechanic who could see it stall but was not able to duplicate the 40 minutes out of commission thing. His fuel pressure gauge indicated that the pressure was fine during the stall outs. The mechanic ran the computer diagnostics but didn't see anything unusual. He wasn't really sure what the problem was. He recommended replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter anyways - but couldn't say if that would make any difference.
Should I start throwing money into new parts or move on and start looking for a new vehicle?
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I have a 1983 Chevrolet C10 Silverado that I am slowly restoring. I recently had to change nylon timing gear and chain. It ran ok but now will only crank but not start. I am getting gas to the carb and I tried a couple of shots of starting fluid. It didn't try to start at all. I pulled some of the plug wires and I am getting spark. The plug wires look good. I am starting to get a little stumped.
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I hve a 89 Chevy Silverado Z71. Transmission will not shift out. It's only a little over a year old. Got it from Advance Auto Parts.
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The CEL came in on my friend's Chevy Silverado .....so he took it to the dealer for diagnosis/repair. After paying for the diagnosis and repair (supposedly he needed a new gas cap) he was good to go. A few days later the CEL came in. I have a code reader so he asked me to check the CEL code. It's P0442. The same code that the dealer sited. Since we know it isn't the gas cap what are the other most likely suspects? He says the truck runs fine. No drop off in MPG, no misfire, etc.
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My 1992 chevy s-10 is running really bad it idles high ( like around 2000 rpm to 1000 rpm) it starts high then slows down. Then when i drive it, it kinda stumbles. Iguess u can say it makes all kinds of noises and beats and bangs and if I am going up a hill some times it shuts off. It has a manual trany and a stock 4.3 motor. I need the truck to get back and forth to work....
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There is an odor when it idles both in and out of the car but only after some driving - if I sit there a while the smell goes away. It is most noticeable when I get off the highway on my way to work and sit at a stop light. If i have to sit and wait for someone, the smell dissipates. I cannot find a leak. There is a performance issue but I'm not sure if it's related. At highway speeds it is having trouble accelerating - if I'm at 55 and want to go to 65, it'll go but it feels like there's resistance, almost a pulling, it causes the car to rock back and forth a bit - again it only happens at higher speeds. It has 140000 and is in good shape (except for things mentioned). The last repair was a water pump replacement about 4 months ago.
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I have a 03 silverado 1500. I was putting in new speakers for the doors so I took the panels off and unhooked all the connectors.once I hooked it all up again and put it together the window,power mirror,mirror turning signal, and locks won't work for the passenger side. I can't work it with the driver side controls either. i've unhooked the battery and let it sit for an hour to reset the computer but it hasn't made any difference.
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When parked and you shift between P to D or R loud engagement of transmission. Thought it was u joints, buddy says both look good/sound good when engaging P D R. Also shifts hard between 1-2-3 intermittently. I did read that it could be the TCC regulator valve?
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2012 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT... My brother took my truck off road yesterday by himself and when I left there was a noise on the passenger side. It sounds like slowly tapping an empty barrel, it ranged from a low noise and a little louder. Randomly while driving... Bumps in the road wasn't the problem or turns didn't make it either. I found a thin stick with burrs stuck underneath and took it out but when I left driving again it still made that noise. It might vary by speed but I doubt it I only drove a couple times and that's all I perceived so far. I am wondering if I should be driving it at all now? until I can get it looked at I also called my brother and asked if he hit any bumps or holes real hard but he said no hoping he's not lying to me.
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I posted a question a while back about my OBD-II for a 2004 Chevy silverado 1500 . Several code readers did not work , it turns out that the OBD was on the same fues as the cigarette lighter . Changed the fues that was blown and my OBD works , now I can take my truck in for emissions test .
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New battery installed a few weeks ago - 120k on 2001 Silverado. When it is rainy out, the gauge acts erratically (yesterday the needle was between 14 and 19, today it is between 9 and 14 and the battery light is on. What can I check to figure out what might be happening?
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I have a 1994 checy silverado 2500 with 3 year old battery, alternator, and starter. I left the car for a week and came back and the battery was dead and needed a jump start. Charged up and sat for 3 days and dead again. I check for lights on and nothing.
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The truck is a 1997 chevy silverado 3/4 ton. Newer battery.Pulled away from curb a few nights ago and it died electrically-so power-no lights -no engine-zip-Jumped it -ran fine another 10 feet then completely dead electrically. Battery shows 13 volts-jumped it again and parked it - when it died I could here a faint electrical noise but no lights or power of any short.
Next day towed to dealer who cannot reproduce the failure after starting it many times and a test drive.I'm thinking new battery cables and cleaning the grounds. I have zero faith in this thing now and I need to haul 10 tons in two weeks with it. It was a complete electrical shut down twice in a row- Never made it 30 feet. If it was alternator the battery would have kept the cap light going-battery is fine -6 month old interstate. I need to track down.
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My engine oil was drained,filter left on (I think)and refilled with ATF. I drove 140km before noticing. What is the extent of the damage if any. The truck seems to work better than before,oil pressure if about the same as before. I am trying to get the dealer that did this to give me a written warranty in case something does go wrong. The truck is a 04 Silverado 6.0litre with 250000km.
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