Chevrolet - Silverado :: Screeching Noise From Crankshaft Pulley When Engine Is Warm And Idling
Mar 6, 2013
Have a 1992 5.7 litre silverado with a screeching noise from the crankshaft pulley when engine is warm and idling. Noise goes away when engine is accelerated. Noise remains on crank pulley when serpentine belt is off pulleys. Did replace tensioner pulley, alternator, and idler pulley. No noise noted when started cold. Serpentine belt is only weeks old no signs of damage. No rough idle or performance changes noted just a annoying noise similar to a turbo but only when no torque is applied.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 4.3L that I recently put a new engine in. The new engine will turn over but will not start. I am not getting any spark for some reason. The OBD2 code that keeps coming up says that the crankshaft position sensor is out of circuit. I have put in a new CKP sensor and new electrical connector, new spark plugs and wires, new distributor rotor and new ignition coil and still get the same OBD2 code and it won't start.
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2006 Chevy 2500 Silverado heater blows hot on driver's side and cold on passenger side. None of the controls change the temp. on the passenger side.
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So I changed my plugs and wires on my truck a few days ago and now every time I turn my key on a loud electrical noise comes from the engine. I thought it was the front right plug so I changed it. That went great for one day, then the same problem reoccurred. Done this many times never encountered such a problem. It will run obviously weaker than previously. 2000 Chevy Silverado5.3l vortec 4x4136,000 miles....
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Had idler pulley, tens pulley, alternator and new belt replaced all within last 5k. Was just looking under the hood while it was running and notice the crankshaft pulley was wobbling. What is the best and worst case scenario?
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My crankshaft pulley sheared off in kia dealer now is this covered under 100000 mile powertrain warranty. I have 88000 miles on it. Heard this is a common problem with the Sorentos.....
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On a 96 ford escort 1.9 liter with automatic trans, after replacing the timing belt, how do you tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt when I only have hand tools? It needs 90 or 95 foot pounds but you can't tighten it because the crankshaft just turns around and I can't find a way to lock the crankshaft without causing possible damage to the pulley or putting stress on the new timing belt. I thought of taking out the starter motor and somehow blocking the flywheel but I don't want to cause any damage to the flywheel teeth. Is there a special tool or method to do this???????
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How to remove a crankshaft pulley like this one? It doesn't have any holes for bolts, to hold some soft of breaker bar in place.
Pulley.JPG ....
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The crankshaft pulley on my 2001 Camry in no longer aligned with the other pulleys, so my alternator belt does not stay on...
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How do I remove my Honda Element's crankshaft pulley so I can replace the water pump? How hard is this job?
Another question. After removing the wheel and some plastic and looking at the pump I wondered why my Honda manual says I need to remove the crankshaft pulley at all?
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I have a 95 Toyota Celica GT which started making a noise today. It does not seem to increase when the engine is revved. The crankshaft pulley seems to have a slight wobble, belt feels tight, does not appear worn. Does not matter if AC is on or off. No performance issues. I'm thinking harmonic balancer replacement.
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I was driving my '93 Ford Escort and it threw off the serpentine belt that I had just replaced. When I went to replace it, I found that I couldn't get the serpentine belt on because the crankshaft pulley was touching the wheel well/car body.
A friend suggested that it is probably an engine mount issue, and I have replaced the front, and passenger side engine mounts, but that has not solved the problem. I'm planning on checking the rear engine mount and the transmission mount, but I was interested in hearing what else might be causing this?
Other details in case they are relevant: It's the 1.9l engine with 5 speed manual transmission. The engine itself seems to be running fine, except that the crank pulley rubs the wheel well.
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Needing to do a timing belt on the Ranger I bought, the crankshaft pulley just feels it needs to be stubborn and not come off easy. I know the front pulley is pushed on and kept in place with a pin, however I think my puller may be too large to fit where it needs to be to pull it off. I want to say I am just pulling an pushing on the same part but not sure. This is my first 4banger vehicle and I have never ran into such a deal even with working on the heavy OTR diesels.
I sprayed things down with Liquid wrench and let it sit while I unloaded and mounted an engine onto a stand last night. I think I might have to buy another puller and reduce the diameter of the pivoting end to fit, which I don't know why Ford would make a pulley on a 4banger engine family different than a 6 or V8 platform. Am I just dealing with a stuck piece?
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I have a 2001 2500HD P/U with the 8.1L V8. I have owned the truck for ~5yrs and used it with everything towing. For about the last three years, I have noticed that when the truck is in gear (Either Rev. or Drive) the engine idle almost acts like it is missing. It doesn't do this at higher RPM's (say over 1K) while driving.
Last spring I did a tune up (Plugs and wires) and a few of the plugs had quite a bit of build up so I figured that was what was causing the issue. For about 1wk after the tune up it seemed to clear things up (at least I didn't notice it), but then resurfaced.
My question is: should the "Coil" parts that feed each spark plug need replacing, or could they cause this symptom? The ignition system on this truck is a bit different that what I am used to seeing, so I am not sure where I should start looking for the problem.
Also, there are no error codes being thrown.
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I have an '02 Chevy Cavalier. It was making a screeching noise when I turn for a while and now has started making a loud rythmic clunking noise all the time when the car is turned on. It gets louder and softer but never goes away. It is coming from the engine area.
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2012 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT... My brother took my truck off road yesterday by himself and when I left there was a noise on the passenger side. It sounds like slowly tapping an empty barrel, it ranged from a low noise and a little louder. Randomly while driving... Bumps in the road wasn't the problem or turns didn't make it either. I found a thin stick with burrs stuck underneath and took it out but when I left driving again it still made that noise. It might vary by speed but I doubt it I only drove a couple times and that's all I perceived so far. I am wondering if I should be driving it at all now? until I can get it looked at I also called my brother and asked if he hit any bumps or holes real hard but he said no hoping he's not lying to me.
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My engine oil was drained,filter left on (I think)and refilled with ATF. I drove 140km before noticing. What is the extent of the damage if any. The truck seems to work better than before,oil pressure if about the same as before. I am trying to get the dealer that did this to give me a written warranty in case something does go wrong. The truck is a 04 Silverado 6.0litre with 250000km.
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I changed timing belt and water pump DIY back in Oct 2015. Ever since then, I get rough idling (car kind of vibrate and engine kind of struggling) after warm start (no problem with cold starts, it did stall once after the warm start).
Two days ago, I got a P0000 code, I thought it was due to low oil (happened before, I topped off oil 2500 miles ago), so I changed oil and filter. No problem yesterday, but today on my way to work. I got the p0000 code again.
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This truck has been a good running truck until recently..... lately you can drive for awhile then the check engine light comes on... readout says reduce engine power.... if you stop for like 30 seconds or less and restart all is fine. It doesn't do this all the time or every time has done it once a day or 4 times in a row, never a rhyme or reason to it. I have used my computer reader to see if i can find the problem myself but for some reason the reader can't read ( still trying to trace why.... even the free scan from oreillys couldn't link to my onboard computer for some reason) so the problem to the onboard computer not linking to any reader?
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I just bought this used truck, 2005 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 extended cab. I noticed some shaking while in idle when I got it back home. The check engine light came on a day or two later, and I recently had a diagnostic test ran on it at the local AutoZone. It came up that I had a P0135 o2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) malfunction and a P0101 Mass Air Flow Sensor signal performance issue. The check engine light comes and goes. I stopped by Walmart for about 10 or 15 minutes and when I got back into the truck, the issues reoccurred. For about a minute, the check engine light actually started blinking! And then went away and started running normal again. Its upper confusing. I bought some MAF cleaner to use on it tomorrow and figured that wouldn't definitely clear up my issues, but I'm still wondering if the MAF sensor is enough to warrant the CEL to blink like that?!
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2007 Ford Escape XLT V6, ~60K miles .... My wife has this rattle in her escape, has had it about a month now. The rattle happens when idling, is less noticeable when driving the car, but might just be drowned out by road noise, etc. Revving the engine in neutral doesn't seem to affect the rattle at all as far as I can tell.
I listened around the engine compartment with a stethoscope for awhile and couldn't pinpoint anything so I told her to bring it in and have it looked at. She brought it in to "Brake King", they do full service mechanic work, but i'm not sure how great they are, but they are flexible about bringing the car in and looking at it right away and my wife can't be without her car for very long since she uses it for work. They said it need the sway bar rods and bushings replaced (they did this and the noise didn't go away). I was pretty suspect about it since the rattle happens when idling, but i'm no expert so I figured they knew what they were doing.
We brought it back and the guy said that the noise was internal to the engine and asked about where we get the oil done. (I do the oil myself and always use Mobil 1, I really don't think it is an oil issue. Maybe the oil filter since we don't change that every time, but again... They did a free synthetic oil change + filter change and that didn't work.
All the while i've been doing research and I decided to go ahead and remove the drive belt to see if the noise would go away when I did ( this whole time I was suspecting something on the drive belt). So I removed it and the noise did go away for the minute or so I ran it without the belt. This pretty much confirmed to me that it was something on the drive belt. I replaced the tensioner since I read that that could be a suspect and they are "relatively" cheap and easy to do. That did NOT work. (I also broke the bolt that holds it on and had a helluva time trying to find a replacement, but that is a whole other story).
So while I had the splash guard off, I listened some more. The rattle really seems to me to be coming from the crankshaft pully area rather than from the A/C compressor area or the alternator area. If it was the C/S pulley, wouldn't it still make the rattle even with the belt off? Looking in the Haynes manual, the C/S pulley doesn't necessarily look like that easy of a replacement (especially if I'm not sure it will actually fix the problem). Anyny opinions as to whether that might be the problem, and if so if a DIYer can do the replacement?
Here is the video. When watching it live, I swear I see a bit of a wobble on the pulley compared to the other pulleys on the belt line, but in the video, you can't really see it...
Video : Mystery rattle ford escape 2007 - YouTube
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