Chevrolet - Silverado :: Random Sputter And Backfire
Oct 2, 2015
2000 Silverado 5.3So I recently replaced my head gaskets. And I think I'm finally done working on this truck when I took it for a long drive and it did a little sputter and then backfired. I thought it was nothing since after the backfire it went right back to running perfect. Then again another day it did it again. Sputter. A loss of power and the BANG backfire and it was back to running like new. At first it was very rare. Maybe once every other day. Now its doing it 2-3 times on a normal drive to work. And it will idle rough during one of these spells as well now. When it starts to sputter and lose power I can throw it in neutral and rev it a few times. Once it backfires it's back to running like new. Only codes I'm getting are o2 sensors but I have no cats. Just straight pipes from headers to a turn down exhaust. I was thinking maybe a fuel regulator but I had replaced that just a few months ago. Could it have already gone bad? I changed my fuel filter not long ago and cleaned injectors and rails when replaced head gasket.
View 4 Replies
Advertisement
I was driving my Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4 wheel drive single cab when it sputtered a couple of times I came to a stop light and the car stopped I tried starting it to no avail. I also noticed I did not hear the fuel pump run as normal when truck is in accessory position . When my buddy showed up I had him try and start the truck as I banged on the gas tank and it would run when I stopped so did the truck...
View 2 Replies
I have a 1994 dodge ram reg cab short bed 2 wheel dr with a 5.2. When i first start the truck in the morning or after it has set for 5 or 6 hours it spits sputters and pops and backfires tries to die and is undrivable for about 15 mins. then its like you flip a switch and it just smooths out and runs great you can cut it off for 2 or 3 hours and it still starts and runs fine! Then the real funny part is after it smoothes out it runs great until i turn left it dies i can turn right and it's fine going around a sharp curve or if i turn hard into a parking place it will just die! i have replaced the pickup coil, dis cap, rotor button, wires and wrought them the specified way, plugs gaped at .035, not platinum, coolant temp sensor, and throttle positon sensor! there is no check engine light on the stored codes are 12 and 37. i am at a loss. This truck has no OBD so i cant see what is happing when it's acting up! i hope this is enough info.
View 5 Replies
I have been having this odd issue where my car will back fire after a cold start. It only happens when getting out of first gear and going into second while driving (it happens as soon as I press the clutch pedal all the way in, and stops as soon as the clutch pedal is back out). It doesn't happen all the time, just every now and then. My only explanation of this would be that I live a mile above sea level (I looked at the FAQs and know that the car will act like its about to die on a cold start, yet it doesn't). So with my only "explanation" of this phenomenon being that I live a mile above sea level and the engine running rich for a few minutes after start up. My car is stock with the exception of the flapper mod.
Pics for Clicks ......
View 11 Replies
My car sits with 45,000 kms on the clock. Had it stock for the first 5k kms and then went stage 1 w/dp and intake. Have been beating the ever living piss out of this car since, and more so since stage 2 got revised again. At about 30k kms I started to develop a random sputter/misfire that was only really noticeable at idle, more so with a mount insert installed. Approaching my winter tire changeover and oil change I had planned to do this past weekend I ordered some maintenance stuff from ECS (filters, spark plugs, spare coil just in case). I had recently got a CEL with a "cylinder 2 misfire" code. I cleared it and it came back within a couple of days, again cylinder 2. Great, nice and easy..Sorta.
Picked up my parcel from the WA post office and installed the coil right there to see if it would go away. And...... NOT. Not worried at this point as I figured the plugs were just toast from so much hard driving for the past 40k kms. Got her into the shop last night and did my tire changeover, oil change, put the factory coil back in and changed the plugs. Here is what I found hiding in cylinder #2,
The car runs so smooth. It's like I found another 10hp lol. Definitely recommend changing up the plugs if tuned and putting kms or miles on the car. With the added power I'm guessing the life span drops off quickly.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2016 is350. I just took off my is250 exhaust and installed it onto the 350. It is an invidia axle back paired with a tsudo midpipe. Since I have made the switch I have noticed several times after braking and coming to a complete stop within a couple seconds the exhaust "pops" usually 1 time and it is fairly loud. This did not happen on the 250. What is concerning to me is that it doesn't sound like normal exhaust popping/gurgling when slowing down or downshifting it is more of a sudden loud single pop after coming to a stop.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2000 3.0l ranger. I have been battling an ignition problem. every time the engine is cold it runs terrible like only 3 or 4 cylinders running terrible. if u put a timing light on the wires the pulse comes and goes on random wires. and when it quits that it has a random sputter at idle and misses around 4k when u get into the throttle ...
I have replaced plugs twice and the coil with motorcraft parts and the wires are new autolites. I have also replaced the thermostat and fan clutch it was getting hot in the middle of this other issue ...
Every time I replace something it runs great for a few days then back to running terrible again. am I missing something else do I need to look at a computer or map or tps sensors, or something like that ...
View 5 Replies
So the Ex is starting to behave badly again in the morning! From time to time, when starting first thing in the AM cold the Ex will spit sputter and die all while puffing black smoke. Total time is under 3 seconds.
Start it again and it is fine. I have not had this issue before. There are absolutely no codes what so ever! And since it is such a short time sputtering nothing really shows up on the ScanGauge 2.....
View 14 Replies
My brother and I both drive Chevy S10 ZR2s, 2001 and 1998 respectively, and they both have the same problem(s). Initially, the first minute after starting, the trucks will backfire and hesitate, which is most apparent when traveling up hill because if the engine hesitates when traveling up hill, we don't go anywhere. However, after this initial minute, the truck perform just fine, mostly.
The only time that they will not perform well after this initial minute is if we go to pass someone on the highway and need to accelerate harder to do so. If we do this, the same symptoms described earlier return, but they will not go away unless the trucks are shut off and allowed to "rest" for a few minutes. A similar problem was described in last week's show, but that was for a carbureted S10 and I'm pretty sure that ours are EFI.
View 1 Replies
I own a 1988 Camaro Iroc-Z with a 5.7 350 TPI motor. I was driving the car onto I-95 at a speed of 65 when I heard a loud boom under my car, and pulled over to see what had happened. I couldn't see what happened, so I drove the car slowly to a friends garage to find the exhaust pipe from the converter back to the muffler had split and blew apart. I took my car to another shop to repair the pipe, but when I left the shop after the repair, I accellerated to about 40 mile per hour, I get another loud backfire and loss of power. The pipe is still intact, but I cannot figure out what is causing the backfire. My friend from the first garage says it is a failing fuel pump. I never heard of such a thing to be honest.I am at a loss and I have to correct the issue soon, as this is my only car to drive.
View 4 Replies
I have a 1975 Chevy Caprice Convertible with a 454 cubic inch "big block" engine with a 4 barrel carb. The car is in mint, original condition with 24,000 miles. Usually the car runs flawlessly, however, lately I have noticed that the car doesn't like going uphill. On level ground and downhill, everything is fine. However, when the engine and car are hot, and I come upon a hill, the car will start to buck and sputter as if the gas is being chocked off. A few extreme times, the car has stalled out completely. Once I role back down the hill onto level ground, the car starts up and everything is back to normal. The problem is not noticeable when the car is cold.
View 13 Replies
I have a 2002 Chevy Impala driving it in the city of Chicago. It's recently had the oil changed, and the transmission fluid flushed and filter replaced. This car was mine before I went off to school, and I meticulously maintained it for three years, and then my step sister inherited it. She drove it for two years, and then it sat in the driveway for a year and a half. It's got about 175,000 miles on it.
Problem: Every time I start to accelerate past 25mph and get around 2000rpms, the car starts to give out, sputter and jerk. It starts to drop off right when it should be shifting to second gear. When on the highway, even if I floor the gas peddle, it won't accelerate normally, but instead just crawls slowly to higher speeds.
It will eventually reach the higher speeds, but it takes about 5-10 minutes for it climb up from 25mph. I don't know enough about this level of car trouble to make a diagnosis myself, and would like an estimate of the cost for repairs. Also the car is getting around 19mpg on the highway, which I need to improve if I'm going to survive the $4.50/gal of Chicago gas. I'm hoping that fixing this problem will take care of that as well.
View 3 Replies
I have an '02 Tracker and I've noticed if I have several accessories running, that my engine will start to sputter and come to the verge of stalling when I come to a stop. It happens if I have the heat/air and radio or charging my phone on together. What is the cause and/or remedy for this? I've changed the alternator a few yrs. back, but it still continued.
View 2 Replies
I have a 98 Silverado with 5.0 liter, 2 wheel drive. When cold it idles at 30 mph plus. When warmed up it runs just fine. This can be very challenging in icy weather. I have changed the temp sensor, cleaned mass air sensor, etc.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado (4x4 Extended Cab 5.3 L Engine) that only seems to "heat" the interior of the vehicle through the floor and dash vents. Hot air comes out of the vents no matter what I do ( I can direct this flow of hot air to the floor, dash, or both) . Even whe I use the A/C at the coldest selection it does not change the fact that HOT air is coming out of the vents. I am guessing that a door of some sort is "stuck" so that only engine heat is coming into the cab. Not sure if that is possible but just a thought. Whats going on?
View 9 Replies
I am sure some of us have heard and read the no oil pressure situation. i had it happen to me and I replaced the oil pump and pick up tube all new oe gaskets with the replacement. i still have the same problem. No oil pressure and the tick sound.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2002 Silverado. I am having problems with it starting. I turn the key to on, and nothing!! A friend told me how to reset or reprogram the key, turn to on 10 minutes 3 times. This does work, but it might be a day before it starts. I don't have a key with a chip in it, it's a regular key. Looking for info on bypassing the whole system.
View 3 Replies
I have a 1997 Chevrolet Z71 4x4 truck. 350 engine.
This morning I went to start the vehicle and it cranks fine but doesn't turn over. It cranks at a normal speed and then every second or so struggles, and then cranks normally again. About 2 weeks ago I went to start it and the starter didnt engage, it just spun. I released, tried again and it started right up. It did that twice over about two weeks. I figured the starter had gotten too weak, so I replaced.... No change.
The truck has been running quite rough for a little while, and I was doing research to replace the valves and sensors that were recommended (EGR and Idle Air Valves), but the truck seems to have decided that I will do this maintenance now, whatever it is. By running rough, I mean, when it idles, it shakes some. Going down the highway, it runs fine and doesn't miss or anything like that. It is sluggish, but it is a 16 yr old truck with 230000 miles, so it just seemed somewhat normal.
I have checked for spark, and verified that. I can smell fuel when I crank, so I don't think its a fuel problem, although tomorrow I will see if it will fire off starter fluid to verify. I have had the rotor go out before, but it seems when it did that it didn't stagger when I crank.
View 3 Replies
My 2001 Chev Silverado 1500, 5.3L, 260,000 K miles may finally be near the end - It has been running great until this week. I live in Portland - weather was down to about 10 deg F a few nights and when it warmed up again the trouble started. After starting cold and driving for about 15 minutes it starts stalling out.
Sometimes it will fire right up again and I'll hardly notice except for a momentary drop to 0 on the tach. Other times I'll have to pull off to the side to the road and restart it. However, 2 times now it would not restart and stay running. It would either fire up but then die within 10 seconds, or it would just crank. Both those times it did restart successfully after 40 minutes had passed total and it drove fine afterwards until I got where I finished my commute (about another 5-10 minutes of driving).
I took it to a mechanic who could see it stall but was not able to duplicate the 40 minutes out of commission thing. His fuel pressure gauge indicated that the pressure was fine during the stall outs. The mechanic ran the computer diagnostics but didn't see anything unusual. He wasn't really sure what the problem was. He recommended replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter anyways - but couldn't say if that would make any difference.
Should I start throwing money into new parts or move on and start looking for a new vehicle?
View 9 Replies
I have a 1983 Chevrolet C10 Silverado that I am slowly restoring. I recently had to change nylon timing gear and chain. It ran ok but now will only crank but not start. I am getting gas to the carb and I tried a couple of shots of starting fluid. It didn't try to start at all. I pulled some of the plug wires and I am getting spark. The plug wires look good. I am starting to get a little stumped.
View 19 Replies
I hve a 89 Chevy Silverado Z71. Transmission will not shift out. It's only a little over a year old. Got it from Advance Auto Parts.
View 8 Replies
