Chevrolet - Silverado :: Instrument Cluster Dimmer Too Bright At Minimum Settings
Jun 10, 2012
2011 Silverado instrument panel dimmer won't reduce below about (subjectively) 40% intensity and cannot be turned off - still way to bright for old eyes on dark mountain roads. Dealer says its characteristic of the model and has no suggestions. Scan-tool results for dimmer potentiometer output reads 2.7 volts (9%) at minimum rotation, and 3 volts (100%) at max intensity. Scan-tool results for LED PWM drive signal reads 0% at minimum and 100% at max. The pulse width modulator (PWM) appears to be an imbedded component of the body control module (BCM) so is not accessible. The dimmer potentiometer is a component part of the headlights combo switch so is likewise not directly accessible.
Since I can't get to the potentiometer voltage divider circuit, if I add a fixed resistor to the output leg of the potentiometer and reduce the dimmer signal voltage by another 0.1 volt (to 2.6 volts out to BCM/PWM) will I set a BCM DTC or raise the voltage on the LED drive pulse to a damaging level? Alternatively, if I place a spst switch in the dimmer output signal, will the PWM simply switch off, or try to further decrease the drive pulse width? Last shot-in-the-dark question before I drag a scope out and start tapping into wires, how to find out what IC chip is used in the PWM?
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The instrument cluster in my 2000 Silverado 1500 recently stopped working. All the gauges are flush to the left, except for the oil and battery which stay about in the middle. I ordered a different cluster online and went to install it today, finding that it still doesnt work. Except in this one everything aside from battery and oil are flush to the right. What to try next or am I going to need to take it in?
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I have a 99 silverado, 5.3l Z71. This morning got in my truck, it started up fine, I then noticed instrument cluster and radio lights were flickering/surging but voltage was at 14v. Put it in reverse and the voltage dopped to about 12/13v like it was about to die gave it gas and it shot back up to normal. So I'm driving and everything electrical goes out and comes back on. Battery flashes, security light flashes, abs brakes come on and off, gauges fluctuate. And noticed it was doing it every 4 seconds. Radio doesnt stay on after i turn the truck off either as it normally does. Doesn't do any of that while sitting idle only while driving and my truck never actually stops running which doesn't make me think alternator is going bad.
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I have a failing 2003 Chevy Suburban instrument cluster and wonder if I can replace it myself. All I have to do is remove it and re-install it when they send it back. 4 bolts and one plug. No reprogramming. What could be easier? Is it really something I can/should do? -
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Vehicle: 1983 chevy c10
Here's the problem, when the high beams are on the dash cluster lights work fine,but when I turn the high beams off the dash cluster lights go off.Im going to buy a new high beam switch but what else might cause this problem?The truck has one of those metal button high beam switches that is mounted on the floor.
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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I've had a base model 07 Santa Fe for 4 yrs and I know darned well that the when the car is running, even with headlights off (as in daytime), that the gauges in the instrument panel light up, and the brightness can be controlled by rolling the dimmer switch (reostat) up or down. Now that it isn't working, after dealer replaced something nearby on a recall, they're trying to tell me that the gauges only light up when the parking or headlights are turned on.
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I have an 05 4-cyl LE. The dash/cluster dimmer switch isn't working, but all the lights are on and at full blast. I removed the fuse panel cover and coin try. There was a set of wires and a plug just free floating back there (3 wires and a black clip). I could not see anything plugged into the dimmer so I figure that's there the plug goes? I can't get my chubby fingers up back there to plug it in and would like to remove the trim panel to gain access. I can't find anything out there on how to remove that panel.
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I have a '91 suburban (1/2 ton, 5.7 TBI) starts,idles and revs great, stumbles at most minimal throttle(parking lot speed) replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, filters. Ran injector cleaner thru it, swapped TBI with a known to be working unit...
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I have replaced my oil pan gasket with a felpro. I had oil leaking from the top of the oil filter. This oil pan has the filter going through it. I have replace the oil cooler cap and gasket and finally replaced the oil pan gasket. It worked. I do no have any leaks from above the filter. But I am leaking from inside the bell housing. It is still coming from the oil pan and nowhere else. (I have dye in the oils and can see it leaking)
SO I went back to the Haynes to recheck the torque settings. I originally torqued all of the bolts for 89 inch lbs Per the haynes manual)
here is what it says:
oil pan bolts:
step one (to engine and front cover)............89 in-lbs
step two (to rear cover).............................18 foot-lbs
this step two is not too clear.....
which bolts are the bolts to the rear cover??
what I think this means is the 2 long rear bolts that go to the rear cover should be 18 foot-lbs. in the haynes manual they are bolts 13 and 14.
Is this right.....I started to do this but then stopped becuase I felt I was going to strip the bolts.
This kind of makes sense due to there are no other bolts in the middle of the rear of the pan to the block.
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My '04 Silverado makes a weird noise when switching it on or off. It also makes the noise when switching between floor and dash vents. Best way to describe it is a low frequency grinding sound. I'm not talking about the clicking sound that seems so popular with this model truck. It has that too, but this is something different. It does it every time I change a setting on the AC. It does not occur when changing from cold to hot.
My truck also has the issue where it will blow cold at first then blow hot air just on Driver side. Turning the truck off then on seems to fix that.
I've googled around but don't know enough about HVAC systems to know exactly what to search forand how to fix it?
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With DRLs enabled and a Euro switch in Auto, I get HIDs, city lights and side markers during the day - no DRL indicator on instrument cluster.. With switch in Off, I get only HIDs, but with DRL indicator lit. In Auto I expected only HIDs as DRL and DRL indicator lit. No city lights or sides.
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Turned my lights on in my 2001 VW Passat and my instrument cluster lights are no longer working. The area showing MPG and Outside temp is functional but nothing else is. The lights for the radio, fan hazard sign etc are all fine.
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The speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge, battery meter, temp gauge and idiot lights went out. The car works fine. Dash is just dead. I did a quick look at the fuses in the glove box but it doesn't have the little card to tell fuse locations. So, I can't narrow it down but I don't see any blown fuses.
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Just wondering how to remove instrument cluster?
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This has been a wonderful car to say the least. Has about 150K on it and it drives like a champ. Recently the instrument cluster went out, sometimes it will randomly work but 9/10 times it's off. When I used it to jump start another car the instrument cluster began working almost instantly, although this was only temporary. When the temperatures are low as they are on the northern east-coast right now around 30ยบ and lower (shivers) it will work. Why is this? does anything to do with the battery having to work harder?
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My instrument cluster panel went out. I bought one on ebay and I would like to replace it myself. Is there a step by step video or a diagram that will show me how to take the dashboard off?
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The instrument panel on my Prius (speedometer, fuel gauge, etc. on the dash) keeps going out intermittently. Took it to the Toyota place and of course the lights were back on.
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I just noticed the other day that part of my instrument cluster is darker than the rest. Everything is nice and bright however my 0-20mpg area isn't as bright as the rest of my cluster.
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I have an issue where the instrument cluster (tach, spedo, fuel, temp, door open indicator, etc) and AC stop working. It only happens under the following conditions and can be reproduced easily. All fuses have been check and are OK.
1.No Gauges
2.Remove and replace Multi-Fuse 20 (which is new and good)
3.Gauges and AC start working again
4.Drive car or start etc. and everything works fine
5.Power off car for exactly 1 min. or more with doors closed
6.Start car and no gauges or AC again
7.If wait less than 1 min. (tested 30 sec. to 59 sec. ) to restart the car and all gauges and AC continue to work fine
Where to start diagnosing.
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I just noticed the other day that one part of my cluster is darker than the rest. my 0mph-25mph is the dimmest part of the entire cluster. I do know that these clusters are LED illuminated, but wanted to know if taking the cluster apart and what the replacement of this LED all consisted of.
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