I posted a question a while back about my OBD-II for a 2004 Chevy silverado 1500 . Several code readers did not work , it turns out that the OBD was on the same fues as the cigarette lighter . Changed the fues that was blown and my OBD works , now I can take my truck in for emissions test .
View 12 RepliesI have a 2004 chevy silverado 1500 ext cab with a 5.3 L 4X4 , I tried to plug in a code reader and I'm not getting any readings . The reader is working , My question is can this be fixed by me or do I have to take my truck into the dealer?
View 7 RepliesThe CEL came in on my friend's Chevy Silverado .....so he took it to the dealer for diagnosis/repair. After paying for the diagnosis and repair (supposedly he needed a new gas cap) he was good to go. A few days later the CEL came in. I have a code reader so he asked me to check the CEL code. It's P0442. The same code that the dealer sited. Since we know it isn't the gas cap what are the other most likely suspects? He says the truck runs fine. No drop off in MPG, no misfire, etc.
View 2 RepliesMy engine oil was drained,filter left on (I think)and refilled with ATF. I drove 140km before noticing. What is the extent of the damage if any. The truck seems to work better than before,oil pressure if about the same as before. I am trying to get the dealer that did this to give me a written warranty in case something does go wrong. The truck is a 04 Silverado 6.0litre with 250000km.
View 19 RepliesMy a/c recently is not blowing the same amount of air thru the cabin. Thought it was the cabin air filter because I was recently in some really dusty conditions. The compressor under the hood (and both lines) run very cold, but cabin blows cold air just low volume compared to before my dusty trip. Am told the 2004 does not have a cabin air filter. If that is true how and where is the air filtered or input? Think something is restricting my air flow causing me problems.
View 8 RepliesI have an 04 Silverado Z71. I am getting error code U1000 on my Scanner. As well as a torque converter code and a front axel code. I can not start the truck. Its as if its in a safety lock out or something.
I talked to a service tech at the lock gmc dealer and he said the U1000 code was definitely the reason it wont start. Possible bad ECM somewhere in the system.
Where can i find a full wiring schematic for my truck ?
2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD.... Rear brakes make strange winding sound when coming to a full stop, noise only apparent under 5MPH. They have been completely done over. Rear end issue? Changes gears fine, brakes work ok.
View 1 RepliesMy daughter recently bought a 2004 chevy malibu. she had it checked by a mechanic, who said it was a decent car for the price. the turn signal does not work when she has the brake on.
View 4 Replies2004 Colorado w 5 cyl. About 4-6 times per year (randomly) the truck will either not start, or the electric locks won't work or the turn signal flashes radically or the electric windows won't operate. Currently the locks refuse to work on any door, but the windows work every where except the drivers door. Mechanics opinions seem to revolve around the body control module, but the error codes, don't seem to support this.
View 4 Replies2004 chevy malibu classic... My blinkers make weird sounds and does not work half the time unless i hit the hazard lights. problem two theft system light comes on and stays on. problem three shut off car to re-start i think i can i think i can then start no problem after words. fourth problem the seat belt buzzer wont stop have to play with key in ignition.
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 Silverado with 5.0 liter, 2 wheel drive. When cold it idles at 30 mph plus. When warmed up it runs just fine. This can be very challenging in icy weather. I have changed the temp sensor, cleaned mass air sensor, etc.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Chevy Silverado (4x4 Extended Cab 5.3 L Engine) that only seems to "heat" the interior of the vehicle through the floor and dash vents. Hot air comes out of the vents no matter what I do ( I can direct this flow of hot air to the floor, dash, or both) . Even whe I use the A/C at the coldest selection it does not change the fact that HOT air is coming out of the vents. I am guessing that a door of some sort is "stuck" so that only engine heat is coming into the cab. Not sure if that is possible but just a thought. Whats going on?
View 9 RepliesI am sure some of us have heard and read the no oil pressure situation. i had it happen to me and I replaced the oil pump and pick up tube all new oe gaskets with the replacement. i still have the same problem. No oil pressure and the tick sound.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Silverado. I am having problems with it starting. I turn the key to on, and nothing!! A friend told me how to reset or reprogram the key, turn to on 10 minutes 3 times. This does work, but it might be a day before it starts. I don't have a key with a chip in it, it's a regular key. Looking for info on bypassing the whole system.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 Chevrolet Z71 4x4 truck. 350 engine.
This morning I went to start the vehicle and it cranks fine but doesn't turn over. It cranks at a normal speed and then every second or so struggles, and then cranks normally again. About 2 weeks ago I went to start it and the starter didnt engage, it just spun. I released, tried again and it started right up. It did that twice over about two weeks. I figured the starter had gotten too weak, so I replaced.... No change.
The truck has been running quite rough for a little while, and I was doing research to replace the valves and sensors that were recommended (EGR and Idle Air Valves), but the truck seems to have decided that I will do this maintenance now, whatever it is. By running rough, I mean, when it idles, it shakes some. Going down the highway, it runs fine and doesn't miss or anything like that. It is sluggish, but it is a 16 yr old truck with 230000 miles, so it just seemed somewhat normal.
I have checked for spark, and verified that. I can smell fuel when I crank, so I don't think its a fuel problem, although tomorrow I will see if it will fire off starter fluid to verify. I have had the rotor go out before, but it seems when it did that it didn't stagger when I crank.
2000 Silverado 5.3So I recently replaced my head gaskets. And I think I'm finally done working on this truck when I took it for a long drive and it did a little sputter and then backfired. I thought it was nothing since after the backfire it went right back to running perfect. Then again another day it did it again. Sputter. A loss of power and the BANG backfire and it was back to running like new. At first it was very rare. Maybe once every other day. Now its doing it 2-3 times on a normal drive to work. And it will idle rough during one of these spells as well now. When it starts to sputter and lose power I can throw it in neutral and rev it a few times. Once it backfires it's back to running like new. Only codes I'm getting are o2 sensors but I have no cats. Just straight pipes from headers to a turn down exhaust. I was thinking maybe a fuel regulator but I had replaced that just a few months ago. Could it have already gone bad? I changed my fuel filter not long ago and cleaned injectors and rails when replaced head gasket.
View 4 RepliesMy 2001 Chev Silverado 1500, 5.3L, 260,000 K miles may finally be near the end - It has been running great until this week. I live in Portland - weather was down to about 10 deg F a few nights and when it warmed up again the trouble started. After starting cold and driving for about 15 minutes it starts stalling out.
Sometimes it will fire right up again and I'll hardly notice except for a momentary drop to 0 on the tach. Other times I'll have to pull off to the side to the road and restart it. However, 2 times now it would not restart and stay running. It would either fire up but then die within 10 seconds, or it would just crank. Both those times it did restart successfully after 40 minutes had passed total and it drove fine afterwards until I got where I finished my commute (about another 5-10 minutes of driving).
I took it to a mechanic who could see it stall but was not able to duplicate the 40 minutes out of commission thing. His fuel pressure gauge indicated that the pressure was fine during the stall outs. The mechanic ran the computer diagnostics but didn't see anything unusual. He wasn't really sure what the problem was. He recommended replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter anyways - but couldn't say if that would make any difference.
Should I start throwing money into new parts or move on and start looking for a new vehicle?
I have a 1983 Chevrolet C10 Silverado that I am slowly restoring. I recently had to change nylon timing gear and chain. It ran ok but now will only crank but not start. I am getting gas to the carb and I tried a couple of shots of starting fluid. It didn't try to start at all. I pulled some of the plug wires and I am getting spark. The plug wires look good. I am starting to get a little stumped.
View 19 RepliesI hve a 89 Chevy Silverado Z71. Transmission will not shift out. It's only a little over a year old. Got it from Advance Auto Parts.
View 8 RepliesI've got a 98 Silverado. Break lights and rear turn signals won't work but tail lights and reverse lights work. Also the brake light on the cab does work.
View 6 RepliesI have the later model 2004 F250 6.0 (built May 2004). I have owned it since new. It has 157K miles.
My newest problem comes after I did oil cooler work. I know everyone points to the IPR and/or ICP, but my readings seem strange to me.
About three weeks ago I replaced the oil cooler with a Bulletproof remote unit that uses the factory oil cooler. During the job I removed and installed a new Ford IPR sensor and added the improved screen to it. I removed and installed new Ford water/oil temp sensors, a Ford low oil pressure sensor, and a Ford ICP sensor (in the pax valve cover). I also installed the improved turbo feed line and turbo drain tube. I rebuilt the oil filter/fuel housing and installed new o-rings and the blue spring. I have the dual alternator set-up and had been running the lower alternator unplugged for the last several years. (I know I know). So I swapped in a reman alternator.
I managed start-up after running batteries dead a few times. During the drive I felt idle speed jump up by itself a few times while at low RPM. I felt an unusual skip or two in the motor but the power seemed ok. I accelerated and the truck pulled fine. At highway speed I heard what sounded like the engine hitting a high rev and trying to cut out, but it was very mild. I noticed this first at 2000rpm, but it may have not been pronounced enough for me to notice it at lower RPM. When the cut-out occurred strongest I slammed the throttle down to see if the problem would worsen, but the truck accelerated well with no cut-out, but when I eased off the throttle at higher RPM the cutting out returned. My Banks IQ showed P2284.
I installed 2 new batteries and replaced the ICP pigtail and soldiered it. That had no effect. I put the old ICP sensor back in. That had no effect. I borrowed a Snap-on Solus Edge scanner to test the truck. I would add that the truck starts up as quick as it has always started; 3-5 seconds.
Scanner results:
Key-on, engine off, ICP (voltage) reads .25, IPR reads 15.
During the crank sequence (before engine start), on a freeze frame, RPM is 157, ICP(voltage) reads 1.04, IPR reads 21, ICP pressure reads 768.8 psi. That seemed kinda normal.
Engine running at idle RPM, I read ICP (voltage) 1.2, IPR 15, ICP pressure 863.1psi. That seemed okay.
I drove the truck with a cleared code and noted that something occurred to change my readings. Before the change while driving under a short heavy acceleration to 54mph, I noted these readings: 3533rpm, ICP (voltage) 3.77, IPR 60, ICP pressure 3400.1. I eased off the throttle, stopped the truck, and noted an uncommanded REV-up by a few hundred RPM and back to idle. It was a quick burp. Afterwards ICP pressure and IPR readings went strange and the code 2284 came up. Looking at the graphs over time, RPM, ICP pressure, ICP voltage, and IPR all follow a similar curve---until the REV-up occurred.
The scanner next showed that as I mildly accelerated to 1705 RPM (about 15mph) graphs showed ICP voltage, ICP pressure, and IPR went up. But when I let off the throttle ICP pressure became fixed at 869.9. I continued to drive the truck.
The truck accelerated fine as it had under previous runs. The Scanner shows that although ICP pressure remains fixed, the ICP voltage climbs and falls with RPM. With RPM ranging from 630 to 1800, IPR holds at about 30. Then under a very heavy acceleration to 44mph, ICP pressure began to increase above 869.9, then followed ICP voltage upwards. ICP pressure climbed to 3479psi with an ICP voltage of 4.64. At that moment IPR read 69%. That seemed normal until I let off the throttle. Then ICP pressure drops back to exactly 869.9 which I assume is some sort of PCM-induced value.
It is during this time at higher RPMs I can hear the engine-cut-outs, but they are mild and the engine still responds to heavy acceleration. I have accelerated full throttle to 100mph and saw max boost values of 29psi (stock program). On engine shut-down and restart the problem seems to reset itself and the truck will run normally for a bit before the failure occurs.
To correct the problem I have removed the banks equipment. There was no change. I have ordered the ICP short connector that will allow me to test actual voltage on the ICP while the engine is running. I plan to soldier some wires and run the meter into the cab for testing.
The scanner reads a desired ICP pressure as well as the actual ICP pressure. When the failure occurs both the desired and actual read 869.9 at less than heavy acceleration.
The scanner also reads desired RPM as well as actual RPM. Desired RPM remains pegged at 640rpm all the time.
Also, engine running the FICM voltage in is 13.5 and voltage out was 47.5.
On the very last test run I got two new codes: P2138 and P2140. I had run the truck with my foot on the floor on that test. Is this a glitch or does this play into my problem?