Chevrolet - Silverado :: 2004 - A/C Not Working Properly - Cabin Air Filter?
Jul 12, 2011
My a/c recently is not blowing the same amount of air thru the cabin. Thought it was the cabin air filter because I was recently in some really dusty conditions. The compressor under the hood (and both lines) run very cold, but cabin blows cold air just low volume compared to before my dusty trip. Am told the 2004 does not have a cabin air filter. If that is true how and where is the air filtered or input? Think something is restricting my air flow causing me problems.
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My truck was noticeably sluggish when it shifted into overdrive or would refuse to shift into it all together, so I decided to change the filter and fluid in it. After this maintenance task was done, and I test drove it, I noticed the problem was still there. It also seems now that it has trouble shifting in all gears. When I tried to "manually" shift it through all gears, the transmission would hold it in the previous gear, buck, shake and then shift at a higher RPM.
Not only this, but if I floor the pedal, the truck doesn't want to drop to a lower gear to increase RPM. It only bucks and carries on until I let out of the gas. I also noticed that when I rev the engine in park, the engine does not want to go past 4,000 RPM, and I hear a "grinding" noise at about that range. In the past, I could red-line the engine in park/idle no problem. Does the auto trans have the ability to "hold back" the engine or do I have deeper engine problems?
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I just recently replaced the cabin filter on my 2012 rx350 and now the A/C doesn't work. I checked under the hood and the compressor doesn't kick in. What caused it? Or should I take it to the dealership to have it checked out? It only has about 20,000 miles too..
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Why is there foam in my wife's in-cabin air filter?
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My owner's manual states that I should change my transmission fluid and filter at 100,000 miles for a vehicle that experiences "normal" driving. My question is this- should I follow the owners manual on this or change out the fluid and filter at 75,000 miles? I just turned 70,000 miles and the fluid is not showing any signs of burnt material it and it still looks and "smells" healthy. Oh, I would consider myself a "normal" driver as well. The vehicle is a 2004 Chevy Silverado 4x4 with the 5.3 L engine.
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I have a 2003 Impala with about 122,000 miles on it. On my recent fill up I by accident put in mid grade over the normal unleaded, now I now that won't cause any engine issues that I am aware of, but after doing this fill up my gas gauge is not working properly. When I start the car in the morning the gauge will go to where it should given the mileage I have driven to this point but as I drive the car the gauge goes up to almost full then down some but never back to where it should be. what might be causing this floating incorrect reading by my gas gauge.
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I have a 03 silverado 1500. I was putting in new speakers for the doors so I took the panels off and unhooked all the connectors.once I hooked it all up again and put it together the window,power mirror,mirror turning signal, and locks won't work for the passenger side. I can't work it with the driver side controls either. i've unhooked the battery and let it sit for an hour to reset the computer but it hasn't made any difference.
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My 04 Elantra GT hatch is my lifetime favorite car. Especially like the rear seats that fold flat. It has 104k miles, but I want to keep it going.
Day before yesterday the blower started making loud noises. I took car back to Pepboys who replaced the cabin air filter they put in a month ago. They had installed it incorrectly, and it shredded with a 6 inch hole in the middle, and paper everywhere. When I left, the fan was not making any unusual noises.
Yesterday I drove 20 minutes on freeway, stopped to shop, started driving, and turned on fan. Immediately the check light went on. Back to Pepboys, service manager said check was P0501 and was a transmission speed sensor that couldn't be related to the filter mess.
Last night I found the Hyundai forum and I read in a post that this is a wheel speed sensor that would be located in the right front wheel and well not far from the cabin filter. Is it possible that the debris from the fan/filter collision has affected this speed sensor? Or is this just a very untimely coincidence?
I know nothing about automobiles. What I should do next and thereafter? Is it safe to drive this car as usual until the problem is fixed?
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I posted a question a while back about my OBD-II for a 2004 Chevy silverado 1500 . Several code readers did not work , it turns out that the OBD was on the same fues as the cigarette lighter . Changed the fues that was blown and my OBD works , now I can take my truck in for emissions test .
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My engine oil was drained,filter left on (I think)and refilled with ATF. I drove 140km before noticing. What is the extent of the damage if any. The truck seems to work better than before,oil pressure if about the same as before. I am trying to get the dealer that did this to give me a written warranty in case something does go wrong. The truck is a 04 Silverado 6.0litre with 250000km.
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I have a 2004 chevy silverado 1500 ext cab with a 5.3 L 4X4 , I tried to plug in a code reader and I'm not getting any readings . The reader is working , My question is can this be fixed by me or do I have to take my truck into the dealer?
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I have a 2004 bought in 2003. It recently logged its first 100k miles. My problem with it is not easy to describe. It is actually running more like a non-hybrid car. I can feel and tell the hybrid system is operational, and I can hear the electric motor whine when coasting, down, etc. However, I don't think it is running as it should or as it used to. It happened on highway while cruising about 70 mph. I hit the accelerator to pass someone, and I felt that something changed. I'll try to describe it: think of a half-clogged pipe. The water can barely gets past the obstruction. You keep applying pressure, and suddenly the clog dissolves under pressure, and water begins to flow freely, and the pressure goes down. So it felt like that. Now the accelerator pedal is lighter, car is faster to respond, yet I think something is wrong because the car isn't itself anymore.
I don't like problems like these because they are very difficult to diagnose, let alone fix. For a while I also have not heard the inverter pump whine after shutting the car off as I did in the past, but the last time I got out of the car today I heard it. I believe it was replaced five years ago after a collision with a Trailblazer wiped out half of the front end ( but with no power train damage). I checked the VIN for the inverter pump campaign, but my VIN was not in the range.
Right now my problem is that the car feels a lot faster than it has ever been. When I lift off the accelerator, it doesn't begin to coast as it used to. No warning light of any kind out of the ordinary is present on the dash, although it did have the red triangle on during start up with a message about the parking gear not being engaged properly. That warning went away after the change in performance occurred. Related?
I guess I will take it to the dealer to see if there are any codes stored. After my 30 mile commute this morning, no whining, buzzing or any kind of noise was present after I shut off the car and I got out. There is still no warning light.
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I have a 2009 Prius base model, and I've been having two different brake problems.
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I have a 2009 Prius. Last summer I noticed that the outside temperature gauge was not working properly. I asked at the wonderful dealership I go to and no one knew anything.
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my nav system in my 06 has started acting all goofy on me. a few weeks ago while heading down to LBI I looked at the screen and it said I was driving in the ocean. I shook my head and went to our house which I've been to hundreds of times so it wasn't like I needed it. the next day it figured out where it was (meaning it actually knew its location and it showed on the screen). I forgot to mention that the nav thought I was somewhere off the coast of Massachusetts around cape cod
fast forward to now.....no hiccups up until today......I went out for a few and everything was fine with the nav but I just went to drop my kids off and it was claiming I was a few miles north-west of my actual location.
is there anyway to reset and recalibrate it? I have seen the recalibrate option but I have messed around with it yet. i personally feel that the nav unit in my ex is useless and rely on my Garmin but still......I'd like it to at least show my actual location. i just used the "search" button but I still haven't really found and answer.
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My wife's 2004 Ford Taurus has been acting up. It shudders sometimes at stoplights and also while driving sometimes. The auto parts store plugged in the computer and said it was the torque converter not working properly. We took it to "The Answer" in Evansville, Indiana for their advertised free diagnosis. They checked it out and told us basically the same thing. The torque converter was acting up. (Slipping? Catching? I don't remember the exact details...)
They said the remedy would be a big expensive job (install rebuilt transmission? Replace torque converter?). Is there anything we can do to prolong the inevitable such as fluid, filter change...flush...additive? We are resigned to the fact that we will need to buy another vehicle but wonder if we should buy one now since the Taurus may only last another few weeks or can we put off buying another car because the Taurus may last another six to twelve or more months.
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Montana with about 107500 kms on it (VIN: 1GMDX03E24D183870) and the coolant temperature gauge is not working properly. Sometimes when I start my van, the temp gauge is pinned at MAX temp and stays there the whole trip...other times it's pinned at MIN temp...and other times it seems to work OK.
When it's pinned at MAX temp, I check the actual temp that the on-board computer is seeing, by using my OBDII scan tool...and I get about 87 degrees C when I'm halfway into my trip (i.e. - when the van is at operating temp), which seems OK. All the other analog gauges are working perfectly.
I read a lot about the issues with "connector C305" on the Internet on the Montana vans...could this be the problem?
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Had this car for two years and I love it, but the central locking has been a bit glitchy since I bought it. Sometimes it works perfectly for weeks.
Sometimes it unlocks the driver door just fine, but a second click of the button won't open the other doors.
On a couple of occasions (today was the second time) it won't unlock any door. If I use the keyhole in the driver door to unlock that door, I have to hold the key to force the lock to stay up while I pull open the door with the other hand. If I let go of the key, it relocks itself.
After I manually unlocked and opened the driver door, I reached in and pressed the button on the console. It would not unlock the doors. This car has only one door keyhole, the one on the driver door. Locking always works on all doors, and it locks the doors itself as it should as I take off down the street.
When it is misbehaving, it misbehaves with either key and the console button does not work either, so I am pretty sure the problem not the transmitter.
If it always behaved as it did today, I would suspect that the microswitch in the driver door was shorting, and telling the system that the key was in the door and turned full right all the time. However, that would not explain why the usual failure is to open the driver door but not the others. Where is the receiver for the remote lock control?
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When stuck in traffic jams, and my 2004 Prius shows 2 bars on the HV battery charge, it attempts to start the engine to maintain the charge on the HV battery. What was happening was the engine would attempt to start and then it would immediately die. It would keep repeating this process, over and over again, and would not charge the HV battery. Once I started driving out of the traffic jam, the engine ran fine and it charged up the HV battery while I was moving down the road. I decided to clean the throttle body. My charging problem did change due to me cleaning the throttle body. Instead of starting and immediately dying, over and over again, the engine no longer dies.
It now revs up, and slows back down to idle over and over again when sitting still with 2 bars of charge. The display does not show any charging going on during this revving up and slowing down episode. I need some more hints as to what to check out. I am studying electrical diagrams of the vehicle, but I need a synopsis of which system starts the engine for HV charging, and which system keeps the engine revving at the same RPMs during charging while not in motion. The throttle body cleaning made my 257 K mile Prius run like a scared deer again. I just need to get her charging while sitting still again. 12 volt charging system is in the 14+ volt range and 12 volt battery with no load is around 12.2 volts.
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My 2008 F150 Super Crew Door locks use to work like this, When you pushed the unlock button on the key fob once it unlocked the driver door only then if you pressed it again it unlocked the other 3 doors. A few months ago it started unlocking all 4 doors with one press. The owners manual does not show this as a option and when I had it at the dealer for brakes they tried to get it back the way it was but could not figure it out either.
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I have a 04 Silverado crew cab with automatic AC. After many dead battery problems, the AC blend doors quit working correctly. If I pull the fuse and then let them reprogram, it may take several tries but I can eventually get them to work correctly. The problem then is that it only lasts for a couple of days. How to program these correctly?
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