Chevrolet - Silverado :: 1997 - Complete Electric Failure
Oct 18, 2015
The truck is a 1997 chevy silverado 3/4 ton. Newer battery.Pulled away from curb a few nights ago and it died electrically-so power-no lights -no engine-zip-Jumped it -ran fine another 10 feet then completely dead electrically. Battery shows 13 volts-jumped it again and parked it - when it died I could here a faint electrical noise but no lights or power of any short.
Next day towed to dealer who cannot reproduce the failure after starting it many times and a test drive.I'm thinking new battery cables and cleaning the grounds. I have zero faith in this thing now and I need to haul 10 tons in two weeks with it. It was a complete electrical shut down twice in a row- Never made it 30 feet. If it was alternator the battery would have kept the cap light going-battery is fine -6 month old interstate. I need to track down.
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I have a 1997 Chevrolet Z71 4x4 truck. 350 engine.
This morning I went to start the vehicle and it cranks fine but doesn't turn over. It cranks at a normal speed and then every second or so struggles, and then cranks normally again. About 2 weeks ago I went to start it and the starter didnt engage, it just spun. I released, tried again and it started right up. It did that twice over about two weeks. I figured the starter had gotten too weak, so I replaced.... No change.
The truck has been running quite rough for a little while, and I was doing research to replace the valves and sensors that were recommended (EGR and Idle Air Valves), but the truck seems to have decided that I will do this maintenance now, whatever it is. By running rough, I mean, when it idles, it shakes some. Going down the highway, it runs fine and doesn't miss or anything like that. It is sluggish, but it is a 16 yr old truck with 230000 miles, so it just seemed somewhat normal.
I have checked for spark, and verified that. I can smell fuel when I crank, so I don't think its a fuel problem, although tomorrow I will see if it will fire off starter fluid to verify. I have had the rotor go out before, but it seems when it did that it didn't stagger when I crank.
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For the past 2 months or so, my brakes sound like a horn when I get close to a full stop. The pads are about 7 months old. Brake fluid is good. Oil isn't fresh but I changed it about 9 months ago. 1997 Chevy Silverado C1500 2WD 5.7L.
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Replaced the condenser and manifold on a 1997 chevy silverado and drew a vacuum on the system, when adding freon to the system the first can pushed the pressure up to 70 PSI on the low side and it has stayed there.
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Several years ago I had to replace the fuel pump - truck had about 100,000 miles. Within the last 4 - 5 months I have replaced the fuel pump twice and just today (about two months since the last replacement), the fuel pump has failed again. That has been the pattern now for the last several months. I have had the work done by one of the reputable car repair shops in town - they have also done work on my 2004 Impala with no issues with the repair. There must be something else going on besides just the fuel pump going bad. What would cause so many fuel pump failures.
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Looks like I've got the classic electric steering column failure. It still works in and out but won't go up or down. I think it won't go up as the column is at the top of it's travel. I can hear a click from within the column when I press the up button but nothing when I press down. So I've done a quick search but I can't find the post which shows the replacement of the wiring. It's probably me being stupid and it's starring me in the face. Also I've got no warning come up on the dash is this a good thing? I haven't plugged the VCDS in yet I'm not expecting it to show anything.
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My girlfriends has GX460 . It keep showing a complete failure of the system and gives warning in the center dash and on the dash.
Is there a way to just shut the system down until after the weather clears up or forever, since its failed twice before?
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All of my electric door locks failed over the last 3 months. Rear doors first, then passenger front, then, Drivers front and tailgate. All work manually. What would cause this type of cascading failure? Honda dealer said all actuators must be replaced. Another mechanic said the front drivers side controls all doors and that unit must be replace.
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Electric power steering failing when starting the car and driving right away without warming it up?
My 2009 ISF has recently started doing this occasionally. It was when I started the car for the first time of the day, and pulled away within 10 seconds or so. When I let it "warm up" for a minute I have not had it happen.
But the thing is, I've had the car for a few months and have never had this happen until now. My mechanic plugged it in to the computer and there are no codes up, or in the history.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado. After a complete stop a distinct "clunk" comes from the rear passenger tire. It's not heard or felt every time maybe 70%. I've raised the rear end and spun both tires to check for a sticking caliper. I haven't removed the tire. Brake fluid is full and in good shape.
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My Wife has a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx Lt, we recently had a series of factory safety recalls performed. Now we have a message coming up saying "POWER STEERING" and the steering wheel is tight and kind of jerky. We didn't have this much trouble before we had the recalls done.
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I have a 98 Silverado with 5.0 liter, 2 wheel drive. When cold it idles at 30 mph plus. When warmed up it runs just fine. This can be very challenging in icy weather. I have changed the temp sensor, cleaned mass air sensor, etc.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado (4x4 Extended Cab 5.3 L Engine) that only seems to "heat" the interior of the vehicle through the floor and dash vents. Hot air comes out of the vents no matter what I do ( I can direct this flow of hot air to the floor, dash, or both) . Even whe I use the A/C at the coldest selection it does not change the fact that HOT air is coming out of the vents. I am guessing that a door of some sort is "stuck" so that only engine heat is coming into the cab. Not sure if that is possible but just a thought. Whats going on?
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I am sure some of us have heard and read the no oil pressure situation. i had it happen to me and I replaced the oil pump and pick up tube all new oe gaskets with the replacement. i still have the same problem. No oil pressure and the tick sound.
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I have a 2002 Silverado. I am having problems with it starting. I turn the key to on, and nothing!! A friend told me how to reset or reprogram the key, turn to on 10 minutes 3 times. This does work, but it might be a day before it starts. I don't have a key with a chip in it, it's a regular key. Looking for info on bypassing the whole system.
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2000 Silverado 5.3So I recently replaced my head gaskets. And I think I'm finally done working on this truck when I took it for a long drive and it did a little sputter and then backfired. I thought it was nothing since after the backfire it went right back to running perfect. Then again another day it did it again. Sputter. A loss of power and the BANG backfire and it was back to running like new. At first it was very rare. Maybe once every other day. Now its doing it 2-3 times on a normal drive to work. And it will idle rough during one of these spells as well now. When it starts to sputter and lose power I can throw it in neutral and rev it a few times. Once it backfires it's back to running like new. Only codes I'm getting are o2 sensors but I have no cats. Just straight pipes from headers to a turn down exhaust. I was thinking maybe a fuel regulator but I had replaced that just a few months ago. Could it have already gone bad? I changed my fuel filter not long ago and cleaned injectors and rails when replaced head gasket.
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My 2001 Chev Silverado 1500, 5.3L, 260,000 K miles may finally be near the end - It has been running great until this week. I live in Portland - weather was down to about 10 deg F a few nights and when it warmed up again the trouble started. After starting cold and driving for about 15 minutes it starts stalling out.
Sometimes it will fire right up again and I'll hardly notice except for a momentary drop to 0 on the tach. Other times I'll have to pull off to the side to the road and restart it. However, 2 times now it would not restart and stay running. It would either fire up but then die within 10 seconds, or it would just crank. Both those times it did restart successfully after 40 minutes had passed total and it drove fine afterwards until I got where I finished my commute (about another 5-10 minutes of driving).
I took it to a mechanic who could see it stall but was not able to duplicate the 40 minutes out of commission thing. His fuel pressure gauge indicated that the pressure was fine during the stall outs. The mechanic ran the computer diagnostics but didn't see anything unusual. He wasn't really sure what the problem was. He recommended replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter anyways - but couldn't say if that would make any difference.
Should I start throwing money into new parts or move on and start looking for a new vehicle?
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I have a 1983 Chevrolet C10 Silverado that I am slowly restoring. I recently had to change nylon timing gear and chain. It ran ok but now will only crank but not start. I am getting gas to the carb and I tried a couple of shots of starting fluid. It didn't try to start at all. I pulled some of the plug wires and I am getting spark. The plug wires look good. I am starting to get a little stumped.
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I hve a 89 Chevy Silverado Z71. Transmission will not shift out. It's only a little over a year old. Got it from Advance Auto Parts.
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The CEL came in on my friend's Chevy Silverado .....so he took it to the dealer for diagnosis/repair. After paying for the diagnosis and repair (supposedly he needed a new gas cap) he was good to go. A few days later the CEL came in. I have a code reader so he asked me to check the CEL code. It's P0442. The same code that the dealer sited. Since we know it isn't the gas cap what are the other most likely suspects? He says the truck runs fine. No drop off in MPG, no misfire, etc.
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I have a 03 silverado 1500. I was putting in new speakers for the doors so I took the panels off and unhooked all the connectors.once I hooked it all up again and put it together the window,power mirror,mirror turning signal, and locks won't work for the passenger side. I can't work it with the driver side controls either. i've unhooked the battery and let it sit for an hour to reset the computer but it hasn't made any difference.
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