Chevrolet - Silverado :: 1995 - Overheating When Slow Down To Make A Turn
Jul 8, 2014
I have a 1995 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext. Cab Z71 4x4 that I've had since '97. Last year it started over-heating, the temperature stays exactly where it is supposed to when I'm running down the highway, but starts to over-heat when I slow down to make a turn (up to about 230), but cools back down at an idle. The Truck has a standard 5.7L TBI 350
Trying to remedy this problem I've changed the thermostat 4 times (with a 160, 180, and 195), changed the radiator, changed the map sensor (thinking that it might be leaning the fuel out to much), changed both temperature sensors, replaced the water pump 3 times (the 3rd time I ordered a Flowcooler waterpump from Summit), changed the instrument cluster and computer thinking it might be electrical, replaced the catalytic converter (thinking it might be restricted), I even replaced every hose on the motor, I then installed a brand-new GM 5.7L 350 crate engine but it did the same thing.
After installing the new engine I replaced the knock sensor, the O2 sensor, changed the throttle body (with one from another motor i had for my son's '94), replaced the distributor, replaced the injectors, checked and made sure there wasn't and blockage in the center intake, cut the exhaust at the catalytic converter just to make sure there was no restrictions.
I recently tried a manual temp gauge just to see if the motor was actually getting hot, which it is.
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2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD.... Rear brakes make strange winding sound when coming to a full stop, noise only apparent under 5MPH. They have been completely done over. Rear end issue? Changes gears fine, brakes work ok.
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Okay, admittedly my car isn't top of the line. But I'd rather keep it. It all started one day getting stuck in traffic. Some kid claims something broke, causing him to serve in front of a bus bus and sending the bus into a creek. Luckily, all the kids had been dropped off, and the driver wasn't hurt. In my angrier moments, I figure the kid was texting but have no proof. I was stuck in traffic for 90 minutes, and within sight of getting out of the traffic mess, there was a loud bang and it overheats. Off to the side of the road, call the wife, she picks me up. Take it to the local shop, which replaces the Radiator and the Thermostat.
From then on, if I get stuck in slow traffic or at stop lights, it heats up quick. The dash temperature gauge has the word "NORMAL" spelled vertically. After a few traffic lights, the pointer is at the O or even the N. Before the next incident (below), running too hot would cause difficulty starting unless I pumped the gas pedal, or let it cool down for awhile.
Another incident: a rather sudden loss of power driving. The mechanic claims that the catalytic converters are clogged (the car has two). He opens up one of them, "unclogs" it. This didn't solve the problem. It did seem to clear up the starting problem. There's plenty of coolant in the reservoir.
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I have a 1995 Silverado Diesel 4X4 with 145K miles. I only drive about once a week to take trash to the dump. It's been running great until yesterday. I put in drive and went to pull out of my drive way and truck won't move. It makes a terrible sound in the rear of the truck but won't budge. I have checked transmission fluid level and appears to be good. I say appears because my drive way is on a steep incline and it's backed in, bed on the down side of hill.
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I have a 95 chevy silverado. 305 with an automatic transmission. I was driving down the street at about 30mph when the power went out on me.
The engine stayed on and all lights stayed on. I could rev the engine but the truck wouldn't move.
I then had a friend tow to my house and i let it sit overnight trying to decide what to do next.
The next day I went out and started it and it and was able to drive it again for a short distance at low speed and then it did the same thing again.
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I have a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado. The blower and heater work great when I start driving. After about 20 minutes of driving on high blower speed, the strength of air blowing out reduces drastically and eventually no air is blowing out of the vents. I can still hear that the blower is blowing air, but there is no air coming out of the vent. The Midas repair shop I frequent couldn't reproduce the issue on their short test drive (of course). They told me to bring it back to them whenever the problem occurs. I haven't had the opportunity because by the time I get out of work, they are closed and I am freezing to death every morning.
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I am getting a light clicking from my rear Axel when coasting at a slow speed. It could be clicking at any speed but my car is to loud to hear it going down the road. I don't have more details than this. What to look for ?
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I have a 1995 Chevy k1500 Silverado Z71, I am having problems with my tail lights where when my headlights are on and I hit the breaks the driver side tail light completely turns off, if I use the left blinker it blinks very fast up till I hit the breaks. When my headlights are off they still don't work properly but legal enough, the left blinker blinks in between fast and slow and when I use the brakes the left side works but very dim, the wiring is all original never tampered with, all I did was put aftermarket tail light covers on it which shouldn't affect anything. The problem usually comes and goes but this last time it lasted for 2 months and now everything works perfect, the problem will be back and I'm afraid I'll run out of luck and a cop will finally notice it.
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So i cave a Clunking noise and feeling coming from the steering column every time i make a slow turn or when i am driving trow ruff roads. I can feel it through the steering wheel.
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My Taurus will not turn off. My son calls and says the key turns back from rum but does not turn off. It will still engage the starter motor if you try. I stopped and picked up a ignition lock to install at home. I finally got the lock out while the car is still running and pop in the new one. Still will not turn off. Then the car overheats, coolant everywhere. Get the hose to try and cool it down a little. Break down and pull the distributor wire and the negative cable.
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I have a 1997 Chevrolet Z71 4x4 truck. 350 engine.
This morning I went to start the vehicle and it cranks fine but doesn't turn over. It cranks at a normal speed and then every second or so struggles, and then cranks normally again. About 2 weeks ago I went to start it and the starter didnt engage, it just spun. I released, tried again and it started right up. It did that twice over about two weeks. I figured the starter had gotten too weak, so I replaced.... No change.
The truck has been running quite rough for a little while, and I was doing research to replace the valves and sensors that were recommended (EGR and Idle Air Valves), but the truck seems to have decided that I will do this maintenance now, whatever it is. By running rough, I mean, when it idles, it shakes some. Going down the highway, it runs fine and doesn't miss or anything like that. It is sluggish, but it is a 16 yr old truck with 230000 miles, so it just seemed somewhat normal.
I have checked for spark, and verified that. I can smell fuel when I crank, so I don't think its a fuel problem, although tomorrow I will see if it will fire off starter fluid to verify. I have had the rotor go out before, but it seems when it did that it didn't stagger when I crank.
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The truck is parked in the drive. I noticed when the truck had been parked in the drive I noticed that the tail lights came on and then about 20 seconds later turned off. I checked that the ignition was off, doors were completely closed, etc. It has happened several times. I'm worried the there is an electrical problem that might drain the battery.
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Two days ago, I brought my 1995 Chevy Lumina to my repair shop I've been doing business with for years...they replaced an A/C compressor, oil change and flushed the sludge. Now today, this morning, I crank it up and the steering wheel is almost impossible to turn...making it almost impossible to drive and unsafe to attempt. My plan is to call them tomorrow and have them tow it and inspect...another expense. This car has been a fabulous 2nd vehicle with 155K miles on it...I'd like to keep it, but might have to exercise other options if the cost/benefit ratio is out of whack.
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I have a 1995 Chevrolet Lumina with about 175,000 miles on it. I've noticed in the past few months that the lights seem a bit dimmer, and the turn signal doesn't always work for the rear blinkers. It blinks rapidly in the front, but after a nudge to the turn signal, it slows down and begins to work in the back. Within the past couple of weeks, when the turn signal is on, it causes the speedometer indicator to pulse with the signal.
I took it in for the low lights and the signalling issue, and they said it might be the battery since it wasn't giving at a full charge. That was replaced, and the issues were still there. After that they said it would be an issue of getting into the steering column which would be a couple hundred dollars just to try and find the problem, but they couldn't guarantee that would actually find the problem.
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I have a 2010 Subaru Forester and it has started to make a weird noise when I make slow and sharp turns, like when I am pulling out of a driveway or entering a parking spot. It is not exactly a knocking noise, it is similar to the one when a small piece of rock is stuck on the tire threads, but it is in the center of the car.
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i am having problems shifting. it wont shift into reverse all the way and when its in drive it has a hard time shifting from first to second gear and wont shift into third.
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I have a 1995, 1500, 350eng, PU. there seems to be an electrical problem in the ignition system. when the key is turned on the check engine and other lights do not come on and there is no power to the coil/ignition. When the lights do come on the truck starts. I have replaced module, dist,pickup coil, coil, cap and rotor. Could the problem be in the computer?
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The window is running very slow and almost doesn't make it to close. Is there any way I can extend the life of this window?
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Our 1995 Toyota Camry shakes and makes a loud rattling noise while driving, but not every time I drive the car. The rear seat of the vehicle, especially feels the shake. The rear tires have been replaced and aligned, but still the shake/noise persists. Our mechanic has not been able to recreate the noise. It has occurred in the winter and summer with or without the heater and/or air conditioning on or off. Sometimes the shaking is so severe, I am afraid of what will happen, but I will stop at the next light, sit for a minute or two, and when the light turns green, the car goes, no shaking involved - everything is fine. I typically drive in town so speed is only 45 mph or less. The car has only 137,000 miles, and is well-maintained.
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I have a 2000 Silverado 2500 HD, 6 liter engine. The transmission warning gauge has been showing it's overheating. I changed the filter and fluid and the gauge still shows red warning.
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I have a 1999 Gmc Truck 1500 5.0 v8. Notice my truck starting heavy..like a low battery or something. This started getting worse over the week till the point where it cranks real slow. So i bought a new battery. Installed battery and still the same issue...slow crank like it wants to lock up. So i removed starter and notice some wear on the fly wheel so i replaced flywheel. Still the same thing! So this week i bought a new starter and guess what same issue. What is cause for a slow crank.
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