Chevrolet - S-10 :: Truck Does Not Crank On First Try
Sep 23, 2014
I purchased a 1996 Chevy S10(beautiful teal color) as a second vehicle about 6 years ago. at the time of purchase we had to have the truck tuned up and then it was good to go. Now years later having much difficulty with the vehicle. There is a picture of an alligator in the door where vehicle id is kept. do you think that this truck may have been in the Hurricane Katrina of Louisiana and destroyed the electrical system. Just recently I had the distributor/tuneup all done. If I don't crank everyday, it maybe a possibility that my vehicle wont crank. the charges are all there, but still not running smoothly. sometimes it will act as if it is cutting out, the brake light comes on but if gas is applied just right the truck remains operable. FYI had the fuel pump replaced earlier too.
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I have a 1998 Chevy K2500 with a 350 engine. 220,000 miles. It starts fine when cold and drives fine. My problem is when I shut the engine off say to get gas or run into a store. When I return to start the truck it will just crank over as if it is not getting gas. If I pump the gas pedal it will fire up after a bit. It will start to stall if I put it into drive but will recover if I continue to pump the throttle. Once I am under way it drives fine until I make another stop. The check engine light is not on.
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I have a 97 3/4 ton Chevy truck with 136K miles on it. The problem I have is that the truck is slow to crank when it is warm but when the engine is cool like in the morning or when it has cooled after 2hrs or so the engine turns over fine. I put a new battery in it last summer. I was just wandering could it be my starter.
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I have a 2000 2.2 with a bad auto trans that is removed from the truck. The engine runs good but it won't crank because of the Park/Neutral switch not getting made. I have the 2 connectors at the switch on the side of the the trans and I think it's the 6 pin connector I need to work with.
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I have a 2002 chevy s-10 pickup, 4.3 V6 vortec, 4 wheel drive. It has developed a crank-no start when it's wet outside. Snow, rain, even high humidity.
Things already done: cap/rotor/wires/plugs; coil; fuel pump (fuel psi between 45-55). There was an issue with the distributor being chewed up by the cam - cam gear was inspected and is supposed to be in good shape. A used distributor was installed by the local shop. Engine has 200,000 miles. I was told the timing chain is a bit stretched but there is no timing problem.
Good power, smooth idle, no smoke and there is no engine codes generated by the crank-no start problem. I have power to the coil when it's happening, fuel in the system, even have a spark out of each cylinder wire but it still won't start. I think the car is possessed!
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2002 Chev trailblazer, I have had the throttle body cleaned.... Sometimes after short stops, my vehicle will not crank, some times I have to step on the gas several times and it will finally crank, it sets no codes, no check engine lights come on. If it sits overnight, or for more than 20 minutes it cranks right up.
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Kids called and said the battery was dead, truck would not crank over. 2002 EXP 4 L. Drove 90 miles and checked battery to be o.k. Changed out with my truck to double test... no crank. Decided the starter must be bad. Banged on it with a long pipe from above - no start.
Winched onto a trailer and brought it 90 miles home. Winched it off and pulled to the garage. Looking from above i looks like this is a straight forward solenoid / starter / hot wire to the battery. No switches/ etc in between. Though i would try it one more time ... clicked key on and off 3 times and truck started on the 4th turn.
Tried it 6 times over 2 minutes and it started every time.. I am thinking the starter and solenoid don't owe me much after 11 years and 165k miles. Plan to check the cable and ends also.... Just wondering an specific known problem with the starter / cables before i jump in.
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I have a 1995 Chevy S10 with a ghost. The vehicle shuts off unexpectedly and will crank but not restart. It has been in the shop now for over 2 weeks with no sign of getting fixed. The Crankshaft sensor has been replaced, but this did not fix the problem.
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Recently my malibu would crank but not start. The consensus was fuel pump. I usually use Cole Muffler since they're close but I've had too many issues with them so I decided to take it to Sandone Tire. Upon further inspection, it turned out to be a wiring issue. I then received a call telling me that when the fuel pump was tested with their equipment, it had 0 electrical charge, and would not run the car for more than 3 seconds, essentially indicating that there was now a pump AND wiring issue, and the pump had to be replaced.
When the work was completed, about 2 days later, i hiked to Sandone to get my car, and was hit with an almost $900 bill. $300 fuel pump plus labor, $300 labor to run the testing equipment on the electrical system, gas fillup, tow, etc. I was told "Well, we fixed the problem of the car not running, as far as the other issues (small ongoing, and possibly linked electrical problems like lighter/ac, radio, locks, etc.. that may have led to the current problem) we'd have to bring it in and look at that"
I turned on the ignition to listen to the new fuel pump, and it would not stop priming. I read that that it can be 1 of 2 things, the fuel pump relay or the pcm not receiving the signal to turn it off after a few seconds. I tried to get back into the place, but he had locked up for the night. Ok, no big deal. It runs. We'll figure the rest out later.
It's now 1 day later and the vehicle is not starting again. Though this time it "tries" to start, with a little puff of combustion here and there, but will not start. I am going to ask if they put the right octane gas in, and tell them that I had a previous idle air control valve needing to be cleaned issue, but other than that I'm stuck on how to deal with this situation.
Also, if the fuel pump was running fine then "suddenly" crapped out, and the problem is electrical, how the hell does the fuel pump suddenly then need to be replaced because it won't run for more than 3 seconds?
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Starter clicks wont crank...
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I left the keys in the ignition last night. I didn't think it was left on, but apparently it was. This morning when I tried to crank the truck, it wouldn't start. The dash lights came on, but it didn't make any sound. I tried to jump it off, and it still won't turn over. What it could be??
The truck that wouldn't start was a 97 Ford F150, the car I was trying to jump it with was a 96 Honda Civic. Someone told me that might be the problem, that the small car wouldn't give enough power to a truck...
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I have a 1987 ford F150 302 we were ran off the road and went over a side walk. When we came to a stop the truck cut off. The truck was towed back home and have been unable to crank it since then. We have checked the inertia switch, checked the firing, and changed plugs in it. The trucks will turn over but won't crank.
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If I turn on my ignition switch and my gauges go to where they're supposed to be, the truck will crank. If I turn switch and , lets say gas needle for example, the needle goes to full then drops back to empty, the engine will turn over but will not crank.
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I'm in a 93 S10/Sonoma.
I'd been having a problem for a while where if I turned the key, sometimes it would feel like it was trying to crank and would instead just make a whining sound which died down when I stopped trying to start the car. Inevitably, though, I could give it a second go and it would start up just fine.
Eventually I realized that if I barely turned the key to a very specific point it would start up consistently with zero problems. I called my brother, who advised me it was probably the ignition failing me and if I had a workaround I might be able to go for a while but I'd need to get it fixed eventually.
Well, this morning after spending ten minutes trying to find the "sweet spot" I gave up and decided the ignition must have done as he'd forecast and given up. I was under the impression a locksmith could do this so I called around, but they informed me if the key was turning, it wasn't the ignition at all and was something internal.
So is it the ignition, do you think? The key still turns just as it ought, it just goes NRRRRrrrrrr...rrr... instead of starting.
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My 2004 Impala, 100+k miles, is occasionally not starting. The battery is fine, it's fairly new and we had it tested. When I crank it, I get all lights and electrics but it doesn't even make any crank noise or even try to start. I've read that the security system could cause this.
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I own a 1994 Chevy Beauville. 12 passenger G-30 (1 ton) with 48k on the 305 V-8. Starting last year I have had problems starting it. At first it was just having to crank it 5 or 10 times. This was random, sometimes weeks would go by with no problems. But it became more frequent as the year wore on. Then twice, while driving, the motor shut off. The check engine light would come on and it would take the usual 5 to 10 cranks it start it. By the time I got to the local garage the light would be off and the set codes would show nothing likely to fix.
Continued this year so finally left it at shop for a week. Not once did it act up, so rolled the dice and installed a rebuilt distributor last week. Took it for a drive yesterday and after 15 miles of driving the motor shut off twice within a mile. Would not restart so had it towed back to garage. Several codes where set so they started looking. Spark tester showed no spark so they put on a test coil and it started right up. Switched back to my coil and, of course, it started right up. They checked for voltage drop but it's ok. Also checked for loose wires. Now when they start it, it runs for 15 seconds and stalls. Saw this happen multiple times.
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My security light is on in my car and I can not crank my car. What do I do?
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When I go to crank my car in the morning or after its been sitting for a while... It turns over but won't crank but when I turn it back and immediately crank it again it cranks right up...
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The problem started several months ago. At first it would only happen once in a while and would only last about 5 mins. The first time it happened I had it towed to my shop and it ran fine when it got there. Go figure. They told me they couldn't diagnose it if it wasn't acting up while they had it. Makes sense. But it never does it when I'm there for routine maintenance. Now it's doing it for twenty minutes at a crack. It's usually fine around town unless I get stuck in stop and go traffic. When it usually acts up is when I get on the road between work and home.
Every time I stop for gas I have to wait for it to decide it wants to start again. All of this is putting heavy wear on my starter. I changed the oxygen sensor (position no. 01), because that was the only error code that showed up. That didn't fix it. My mechanic says he thinks the next best step might be the cam and/or crank sensor. If not that, then he thinks we should change out the brain. Somebody else said it might be the fuel pump goin out. because I travel too far for work and I can't afford to fix things that probably won't solve the problem.
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I have a 1999 Gmc Truck 1500 5.0 v8. Notice my truck starting heavy..like a low battery or something. This started getting worse over the week till the point where it cranks real slow. So i bought a new battery. Installed battery and still the same issue...slow crank like it wants to lock up. So i removed starter and notice some wear on the fly wheel so i replaced flywheel. Still the same thing! So this week i bought a new starter and guess what same issue. What is cause for a slow crank.
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Started truck 3 times in 30 min. no issues with truck before tonight nice well cared for truck. Went to get a pack of buns at store came out --NO CRANK--all lights are on dash, etc, new starter a month ago, relay changed out in fuse panel just to see if there was a change. Bought two new Motorcraft batteries installed , NO CHANGE, so is it natural safety, key switch, electrical ignition switch, solenoid on starter, is there a solenoid between key and starter?
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