Chevrolet - S-10 :: Hard To Start After 2 Or 3 Stops
Jun 6, 2012
My little 2WD truck starts right up1st thing in the morning but after about 3 stops I turn the key and nothing. I wait about 5 mins and it starts goes another stop or two and the same thing happens. I have had the auto store check starting system, no problems i had. The computer read no codes...
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My trunk will open with the FOB and cabin switch.......it will start to open, then reach about 2/3 open and then stops and closes hard. I have a custom interior panel that may be too much weight for the lid, but even when I assist it going up, it still stops and closes hard.
Is there a way to either manually override the auto open/close, or change the sensitivity of the auto close actuator?
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I'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
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99 suburban. X 1+ year progressively harder to start. Will turn over, but seems like it is not getting gas. Engine replaced 10k ago after I blew the last one at 220k. Did this before and after replacement. Once started runs fine. Can hear fuel pump kick on when key turned to on position? fuel relay?
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i'm having a hard time starting my 2000 chevy impala. it orginal had a security plug on it. i had it removed. to start when i turn on the turn signal there was a noise, the odometer when blank, the air bag symbol appeared. the next time i tried to start the car it would do the same thing but wouldn't even turn over. sometimes you can turn the key on and wait 30 seconds, step on the brake and it may start. i have continued to try for up to 3 minutes. if you put on jumper cables sometime it will start. what is the problem?
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I just replaced computer brain and finally it works and 6 miles later same symptoms again. Its unreliable, will start wont drive, drive and quit and wont start. I replaced : cps emc ecm coil packs sparkplug wires sparkplugs pvc valve inline fuel filter
I have tried anything someone says.....like loose or bad gas cap can let water in your fuel. if thats true or not I put heat in to dry up any water problem put premium fuel in my truck. Changed the oil ever 3 thousand miles. Its my work truck never took it out in the woods and abused it never raced any cars with it. Just babied it and tried to get as much mileage out of her as possible.
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My car will start but die. it either wont turn over or if it does, the engine goes right off. The radio and lights work though. the throttle & iacv were all good. i got it towed and the mechanic brought it in his garage at end of the day. He said it wouldn't start so they left it for monday. The thing is that my ignition sometimes gets stuck and leaves radio & interior lights on. So when they tried starting car on monday, it was dead. They put different battery on & it started right up. they said everything else was ok. they charged my battery & I had no problems. until today, 3 months later, same problem. both times it happen when I am leaving work & both times it was raining & cold. Could my battery be bad? also wonder if place really checked everything out likethey said.
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My '08 Chevy Impala (116,000 miles) has had a recurring issue over the past few months. After I have first started it, and for maybe the first 15 minutes it is running, it has been 'shifting hard' from 1st to 2nd gear. Basically, the engine revs much higher than it normally would and it 'thunks' into second gear. If I intentionally push the gas slower it does not happen. The guys who service my car (not Chevy) told me that my Transmission fluid level is fine.
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I have a 2001 malibu , my cars engine light has been for about a week. This is the second time it has happened. lately I have been having trouble starting my car. Does this have anything to do with my car , or because of the cold weather? How important is it for me to get my car checked out?
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I have a 1987 Chevy Celebrity w/a 2.5l automatic engine. Physically its in really good shape and only has 64k original miles. Consistent issue is it will crank (sometimes very hard to get it to do so, then run smooth, sometimes for days, sometimes for only minutes, then stall out. It usually stalls after the engine is good and warm. If you let it sit for about 5-10 minutes, it will restart and idle smooth and then go into stalling out again, sometimes within minutes, sometimes days. I have replaced the fuel tank, fuel filter, sending unit/fuel pump, fuel injector, throttle body, the computer, exhaust/muffler, mass air flow sensor, several other sensors and it has not improved or worsened the problem. I have sunk $1700.00 into this car in replacement parts. I can't believe that there's much else left that could be the cause, and I suspect its bound to be something simple, like a sensor or something, because pretty much all of the expensive stuff's been replaced.
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I have a 98 chevy silverado c1500 extended cab has 5.7 350,and i think a 4L60E transmission. Driving around town my truck shifts fine, but when i get on the highway for a little while it will start jumping hard from 1st to 2nd, but if i kill the truck and start it back up it will usually shift fine.
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
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I have issues with engine starting when cold outside or after rain. This only happens when engine is cold and has not been started for a day or 2. Distributor cap does not have any condensation inside but does seem to corrode on contact points. Engine turns over fine, has fuel and spark. When this happens engine will not fire and after awhile it will start to fire and lock up when it fires then continue cranking. After repeated attempts it will start and run fine, can be shut off and start right back up with out any issues. It could take a few tries to a few hours of trying before running though. I'm leaning toward a distributor or timing issue. Am I on the right track? 98 Suburban K1500 5.7L ....
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I recently purchased a used 2001 Chevy Blazer with a manual transmission. In order to start it, I have to push very hard on the clutch, almost through the floor. Is there some type of adjustment to make starting a little easier? Also, when I push on the parking brake, it also goes right to the floor and seems like it barely engages.
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I put a new battery and the fuel tank is full but the car always has trouble starting. the other day i sat trying to start it, pumping the gas for 10 minutes or so. Nothing. I noticed some dripping under the car but it looked like coolant. Could this be something bigger? I have a new battery in. Do I have to go and start it every week and let it run for a few minutes? Any portable car jump start?
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My battery was drained two nights ago, I jumped started it fine. However, the last two days, the truck has been hard to start, and battery seems low, even though the vehicle has been driven plenty. Today a new problem as arose, with the AC climate control. Driver side vents blow out very Hot Air, and Passenger Side blows out very cold Air. The setting on the digital climate control system says 60 F on both sides. Its possible the AC was on when the truck was jump started.
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I just changed my ignition cylinder, and now my s-10 won't start. I've done the telltale thing, and all that does is kill my battery. The security light never stops blinking like they said it would after 10 minutes.
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I have a 2005 Ford Focus zx5, which has been a great car for me so far. I live in DC, and traffic is insane. Over the last year or so, maybe once every other month, my car has turned off when I come to a hard stop (usually braking suddenly at a light/pedestrian walkway). This is my first time owning an automatic, and it's just as if my car had stalled out. The radio will stay on, etc, but the engine dies and I have to put it into park and re-start it.
The RPMs have seemed to fluctuate a bit as well, usually on start-up or on hot days.
So far I haven't been motivated enough to get it taken care of, since it happens so infrequently and things seem great otherwise. What could be causing this?
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I bought my 2005 Turbo diesel awhile back, and I was having an intermittent problem with the brakes. If I have to suddenly stop, and hit the brakes, it feels like I didnt hit them at all. Sure, I stop, but only after 3-4 seconds of OH CRAP IM GOING TO HIT SOMEONE.
So I just had my truck in the shop, and they replaced my front rotors, turned back back rotors, and replaced all of the pads.
So, I figured that should fix the issue. Not so.
Tonight my daughter was in a car accident, and I was hurrying my way to her, and the light in front of me flipped yellow/red pretty quick. So I hit the brakes, and thought I was going to go right through the intersection..
When I hit the damned brakes, I need to freaking stop. Not keep moving and then slow down gradually. Scared the crap out of me multiple times now. One time I'm not going to be so lucky.
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97 chev PU 3500 350 5.7 stops and starts while driving. Complete tune up ,Fuel pump ,filter , dist. and rotor.
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My avalanche ac is not working correctly. The ac is not cold at all and blows out hot air when it stops. I refilled it with freon and it still doesn't get any colder. What might be the problem? And also even though I turn the ac up high, it doesn't blow very hard. (I used the gauge when refilling freon, so no overfilled).
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