I have a 2002 S10, I'm the second owner. I checked with the previous owner ( the person I bought it from) to see if he has ever had any issues with the A/C. He said "Not at all." I do know the truck was sitting very close to a year.
I've recharged the system and now it's right at the red so far as r-134a gauge go. When I turn the A/C I can hear the A/C clutch kicking in and out like every 9 seconds.
After my truck sits overnight it starts immediately and goes to fast idle for a few seconds, then ithe idle starts dropping until it gets to approx. 400 RPM.If I drive off immediately it will correct itself in a short while, otherwise I need to baby the engine speed until it runs on its own - usually five minutes.I cleaned the MAF and performed a MAF tap test with no success.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3. I am having a bit of a problem with the hvac system. When I turn the selector switch to floor heat only or put it on vent or both the a/c clutch kicks on and off. Not when I put it on defrost but as I said only when it is in the other positions. I do know that the clutch will kick in and out when on the defrost position. That is fine. But why would it kick in and out when in the heat only position?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 silverado. When I come to a stop, sometimes the anti-lock brakes will kick in. it makes that all too familiar grinding/clicking sound that I hear all winter. However, it is happening during the summer/fall. It doesn't happen every time I brake. It seems to happen most when I am coming to a stop on an uphill or downhill grade, or when I am stopping while turning. It doesn't happen the whole time while braking, just right at the end before the vehicle stops. It also seems to happen more frequently when it is warmer out. The tires don't skid while it is stopping either, which I guess is supposed to happen. It is a concern since it does take me a bit longer to stop when the anti-lock is going, and I never can predict when it will happen.
View 3 RepliesI drive a 04 passat 5spd with 100k on it. Anyway, the clutch grabs fine, doesn't slip out of gear and slips right in. SOMETIMES when I shift it grinds for like .2 seconds and the goes away, and it drives normal. It ONLY does this when upshifting, downshifting it has never happened. It pulls fine, 4th gear up a hill it still gains. Do you think a tranny flush would cure this little issue? Or Is my clutch now terminal.
View 1 RepliesI have a 99 f350 7.3 diesel. The AC clutch cycles on for 3-4 turns and then off for 45 sec. It the does it again. The low side starts to cool down and then the clutch quits. as the truck warms up the clutch quits completely. it will restart for a few times if I push in on the elec conn on the ac clutch. My Ac has quit cooling and summer is almost here.
View 1 RepliesI'm at my place in Florida 1,000 miles from home, and when I started the car in a mall parking lot, there was some grinding metallic noise for a few seconds and I couldn't get it into first or reverse and the clutch pedal was way down. I was able to get going in 2nd and eventually the clutch was back to normal and I could get 1st and R. What happened? Broke some fingers in the pressure plate? Seems to run fine now but have a 1,000 mile ride ahead in the morning.
View 1 RepliesOn 2500 mile trip, no A/C last 400 miles and we're cooking
Compressor clicking on/off about every 5 secs, clutch smell. Seems to be turning okay.
I brought some tools, including a full socket set.
Can I pull the clutch and remove shims in the campground? Looking for a condensed version of how?
Worst case, how do I replace the clutch- of I can find a dealer with one?
Pulley and clutch fixed, but cycling on and off...adding freon?
What would cause my 1993 silverado 5.0 133K miles, to knock for a few seconds when started. Sounds like the back of the engine area.
View 3 RepliesI just recently purchased my 1999 ford F-250 superduty V8 5.4 5 speed with 144,00 miles and I'm having a issue with the clutch pedal sticking in and then it will pop out after a couple seconds. It will stick more when I come to a light and have my foot on the clutch but the pickup drives fine and there is no slipping of the clutch. I have never experienced this issue before in any rig I've owned. so I'm a little lost at the moment.
View 2 Replies2010 Cobalt, LS 2.2 Ecotec, with 13.7k miles. Oil level normal and battery voltage = 12.5V.
I've bought the car new in Feb. 2001. Car started and ran normally for the work commute on Friday, 9/2. Today the Cobalt starts normally, runs for 2-3 seconds, and then stalls. The accelerator has no effect. It's already been towed to the dealer..
My truck hasn't run for over a year and no one seems to be able to tell me why. The fuel pump supposedly has 10 lbs of pressure, it has new fuel pump relay, new throttle body, and probably more new things (can't remember exactly). It will start up normally and then it will act like it's not getting fuel and within seconds die. If I keep my foot on the gas and kind of pump it (I know it's EFI) it will try to keep running, but will die, and it really gets rough toward the end like the whole engine's going to fall out. The truck has 300K+ on it but the engine was replaced about 10,000 miles ago. It still has a lot of original equipment.
View 14 RepliesMy car runs great except occasionally after I drive awhile, park and than restart to continue, it starts right up but stalls out 20-30 seconds later. I turns over but will not run. I have to let it sit for 30-45 minutes and than it starts up like a champ. I suspect fuel pump but would like an expert opinion. Garage says they can find nothing wrong and to bring it in when it happens... how do I do that.
View 1 RepliesThe ABS light on my Chevy Prizm 98 comes on when I start the car and then turns off in a few seconds. The last few days the light does not go off the entire time the car is running. The light does not flash it just stays on. It's never done this before. Does this mean I have an issue with my brakes? I replaced the front brakes last year but I'm fearing/dreading rear brake replacement. I have no signs that they need to be replaced but am wondering if the ABS light is telling me I'm reaching the rear brake replacement day.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2008 Chevy Equinox, and have had issues with the air conditioner for a while (see my other post: [URL] ....).
Lately, if the car is stopped in traffic or at a red light, I cannot get any cold air. The compressor will turn on, but only 2-3 seconds, then it shuts back off. It will cycle like this, on and off, about every 10-15 seconds while I am stopped. Each time this happens, the RPMs jump and the car lurches forward a little as well. As soon as I start moving at a decent speed (20 mph or so), the air gets cold again.
The recommendation from my other thread was to replace the heater control module.
2000 Blazer 4wd, automatic, 122000 miles
In the last couple of weeks, if the Blazer isn't driven for 3 or more days, there is a slight knocking noise for 15 to 20 seconds after start up. Oil level and pressure are fine. I'm guessing it's the lifters.....
I own a 2001 Chevrolet Prizm with ~150,000 miles. It has the three speed automatic transmission. It generally runs very well, but occasionally when pulling away from a stop it will hesitate for 2-5 seconds. I'll push the gas, but it will basically just creep forward slowly, as if I'd only taken my foot off the brake. If I keep my foot on the gas for a few seconds it will start to accelerate, although it seems to surge a little bit (although this could be because I probably end up pushing the gas harder than I normally would, hoping that it will go).
This problem was happening very intermittently, although its been happening more lately. Its been going on over the past year or so, but it would only happen maybe a few times a month. Over the past month, though its been happening more and more. Probably every other day for the past month. However, it doesn't happen at every stop. For example, if I leave for work (about a 15 min drive on city streets) it will usually make it through a few traffic lights before it happens. Then after 5-10 minutes driving I might pull up to a stoplight and it will hesitate pulling away. It might make it the rest of the way to work without incident, or it might do this at 1-2 more stoplights. On longer trips the car seems fine; it runs well on the highway and behaves normally otherwise.
Some maintenance history:-bought the car 5 years ago with 110k miles; it had just had a rebuilt engine installed-about 3 years ago I had the catalytic converter and O2 sensors replaced (got a check engine code)-about 2 years ago I had the in-tank fuel pump replaced-about 10 months ago I replaced the mass airflow sensor (the car was stalling on start-up and the check engine light was on - this fixed the stalling problem, but not the intermittent hesitation problem)-I have not had any transmission service done, but the car shifts smoothly. I checked the fluid and the levels seem fine and it doesn't smell burnt.
1991 chevy silverado 1500 4.3 ... Cruising at 55 down highway truck died for 2-3 seconds only to refire itself. After doing so for a few days it wouldn't start at all. Changed fuel pump,fuel filter and all spark plugs. Now runs fine until I shut it off briefly. Then it stalls on me on 3rd,4th and 5th gears. Bucks badly. Is it a fuel issue or something to do with starting it while it's warm. Also it runs good with the check light ON. Soon as it goes off it starts shutting off and refiring itself when I give it gas.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 chevy cavalier, 4 door, 2.2 liter SOHC, which has been running hot for a while now. readings are off the dash guage, here's the scenario. on startup from cold, the temperature begins to rise within 60 seconds, reaching what i consider normal operating temperature within three to five minutes, at approximately the "NO" in " NORMAL" on the gauge.
It reaches what has become it's usual operating temperature, at "RM" within another minute or two. If i am in stop and go traffic, the temperature will rapidly reach the final mark after the "L", but not the red zone. If I get on the highway, the temperature will reduce back to the "RM" position within one to two minutes, three to four minutes in steady traffic at lower speeds, i.e. 35 and all green lights. Thermostat has been replaced, water pump has been replaced, electric cooling fan is running correctly, radiator is free and clear of debris.
When I first got the car back in 2000, it ramped up to heat much more slowly, and hung out at "NO" in all types of traffic. in 2004 i went and picked up my car from my father's place, he had taken it to the local shop and had it given the once over, which is when this problem began showing up, and has gotten progressively worse over the years. I've gotten nowhere with other mechanics, the system is leak free, and the coolant tests good.
I Turn On The A/C To Max On My 2001 Blazer and A/C Clutch Will Not Spin. My Freon Is Full. How Do I fix This.
View 5 RepliesI just replaced a clutch line yesterday on a 98 s10 and it failed again today it blew at the same spot....
View 19 Replies