Looking for a diagram on 1997 S10, 2.2 timing settings? If timing is off, will the engine sound as if the bearings are knocking somewhat? I installed a new crankshaft and new bearings. Also do the ignition coils usually go bad? Should the #1 cylinder be on the compression stroke?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 sonata 2.4L with 93k miles that has a knocking sounds coming from the bottom of the engine. It seems that it is a bad rod bearing and was caused by low oil levels. I did not know that the oil was that low (3 quarts low) It started about a week ago. I know I'm gonna have to put it on jack stands and drop the oil pan.
By the way, Here is a video I found and it sounds similar to my car. Here's the link : 2.4L Theta Engine Noise - YouTube
It is a 2002 or 2003 Chevy truck with a diesel engine. He was going down the road the other day under normal driving conditions when the motor made a racket and then white smoke started coming out of the back like a chimney. The truck will still crank and run (and smoke), and now there is a knocking or tapping noise that is coming from the engine. The engine is running kind of rough, and has the tapping or knocking sound, but it will calm down for 1/2 a second at which time the rough idle and noise stop, but quickly return. There is no engine code showing, so my code reader is useless. I once had a Chevy 350 with a spun main bearing that sounds similar, but the motor didn't idle rough or smoke. I don't know enough about diesel engines. I was told there was a possibility of a bad injector pump or bad injector itself. Is there any way of testing this yourself, or does it require a shop trip?
View 8 RepliesNew to owing a ford pickup. I bought a 2002 Ford F-150 lariat 4x4 as a project truck. I've always wanted a truck to mess around with, but once I got the truck home I noticed it had a knocking sound. It didn't sound like it came from the top of the engine so I checked the muffler first and found it had a 3" slit in it. I replaced it but the sound remains. I heard it could be lifters? Is that something I should mess with or not?
View 8 RepliesMy 2003 chevy malibu suddenly started making a terrible knocking sound, like the sound a can of spray paint makes when you shake it- only much louder. A couple of weeks the oil light went on very briefly when i used the brakes. The oil change place was closed so I added a couple of quarts after checking the level (i waited after the engine was shut off for an hour, there was a little oil on the dipstick but definitely needed more). After adding the oil and letting it settle it was at the appropriate notch per the owners guide. A couple of days ago, I bought gas at a station I dont normally use. The car was driven approximately 40 miles after fill up and before the noise started.
I took the car to get the oil change and was advised to get it checked if the sound didn't go away in a day. The auto place says their diagnostic tool won't work if my check engine light isn't on. Its not, and has never lit up. What to do next...I assume I shouldn't drive it anywhere. I remember reading bad gas can cause this sound, or a bad Co sensor (?) I am praying the oil light doesn't come on when it's already too late!
My 98 lumina seems to make a knocking/bouncing sound in the right rear wheel well when I brake. It never happens when I'm braking driving in the city (25 mph or so) but it happens when I'm closer to 40mph and up.
I thought it might've been a drum brake issue but I just had the brakes serviced about two or three weeks ago. It still does it. This isn't a new issue. It's something that's been going on for years.
I have a 97 7.3 ... I've had it about 2 months now and now it wont start! It will start and idle for 2 seconds then start knocking and die! I had a buzz test ran on it and all is good. I also checked my Icp and checked my uvch harness with my multimeter. Before this it would run ok but seemed like it had a miss and a lack of power. On start up if i didn't have it plugged in it would smoke white smoke horribly. I am thinking maybe my IDM. I need my truck for work .... I had it hooked up to a scanner and it said faulty IDM.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 F-150 4.6 4X4. I had a knocking sound that sounded like a rod knocking but was coming from the bell housing. After some research, I found that it could be a cracked flex plate or bad torque converter. I bought and installed a new torque converter with no change. The flex plate didn't appear to have any damage but went ahead and replaced it with the same results. I actually started the engine by jumping the starter (with no transmission) and the sound was coming from the flex plate/dust cover. My question is do I need the dust cover? Or is it a bearing or something else inside the engine causing the flex plate to hit the dust cover?
View 3 RepliesMy mechanic tells me that the hold up or carrier bearings on the drive shaft of my 2005 Equinox need to be replaced. He says that about half the time this cannot be accomplished and that I might have to replace the entire drive shaft. From the research I have done, it seems that a press (?) and blow torches are needed to replace the bearings. I can't afford the new drive shaft, but I could afford to replace the bearings if I could find someone who was sure they could accomplish this.
View 8 RepliesMy 2003 Sante Fe has developed a rattling sound in the engine. The oil level has been good. I took it to a dealer for diagnoses and they told me that the engine was gunked up and the timing "chain" tensioner couldn't move to keep it tight and it was rattling. They put some engine cleaner in and changed the oil and wanted me back in 500 to clean it again. I did that again, but the rattle is still there. It gets a little quieter after I have driven it for a while.
My question is doesn't the Sante Fe have a timing belt? If that is the case what do you think the rattle is?
I recently removed my timing cover due to a coolant leak and found the cover was cracked. I had it welded and reinstalled but i did not remove the crank sensor from the cover while it was being welded. Now the engine starts but shuts right back down. Do the welding may have damaged the sensor and giving me this condition? 1997 4.2 ....
View 1 RepliesI had a toyota prius gen 3 last year where it had an engine knocking sound, where I tried every TSB and changed the spark plugs, spark plug cables, intake manifold, engine knots..... etc., nothing worked except the following video which solved the knocking completely with no return.
View 12 RepliesMy wife's car is an '05 Camry SE, V-6, 60K miles. Just recently, I start to hear a roaring sound starting about 35-40 mph. It sounds like a rear wheel bearing. I jacked up the front end and ran the car in drive, but did not hear anything unusual. I jacked up the rear and shook the wheels in and out and did not notice any play or wobble. I drove about 45-50 on a straight road and swerved gently from right to left and vice versa, but could not determine where the sound is coming from. How do I narrow my inspection to determine if it is a wheel bearing, and which bearing is bad?
View 11 RepliesAt 20mph my azera sounds like it has bad bearings but they have all been replaced and I still hear the sound. Almost sounds like bad bearing or something in the wheel.
View 9 RepliesI have a knocking sound from my D4EB engine (2008 Santa Fe. 120,000 miles)
Problem has been any diagnosis of the cause because the mechanics cannot agree. One has said top end and another bottom end. If it is top end when I think the consensus would be to get the present engine rebuilt. However, if bottom end then, because of the increased cost, the better option might be to replace with a reconditioned engine.
I've got a 2011 Sonata GLS with 83k on it.
Last night I was driving and started to hear a repetitive knocking sound. Stopped to determine if it was only when moving but it continued in park.
Checked the oil and apparently there was very little of it.
Don't know how I screwed that up but the mechanic heard the engine for 1 second and said I need a full engine replacement.
So, yeah I am ticked off and need to take care of it.
The VIN qualifies for a replacement under the recall but I don't know how the dealership will feel about the present engine condition.
If that's not an option, where do I even begin to look for a replacement?
I own a 07 Hyundai Sonata Limited with 31000 miles. It is 20 degrees today. When I start the car up there is this knocking sound from the engine. Once the car warms up the knocking sound only happens when the car is in drive or reverse. When the car is in park or neutral it is fairly quiet. The sounds is still there but not as loud as in drive or reverse. I have done the routine synthetic blend oil changes between 3500-4500 miles.
View 14 RepliesI took my car into the dealer to have them check out the loud knocking/pinging sound from the engine. First time, they told me that it was normal. It bugged the heck out of me so I took it in for the second time. Note: I was given a loaner to drive and it happened to be another 06 Passat 2.0T and this one sounded fine to me. The lead tech did kind of agree that it was a bit loud. So, they replaced a new fuel pump and did an oil change....?? But that of course didn't fix the issue. The noise is so loud that I can hear it inside the car w/ windows up when I'm sitting in traffic or at the light. Also at night, I can hear it when I'm standing about 15 or 20 yrds away from the front of the car.
I realize that the engines will have some sort of knocking sound (my 330i does that), but shouldn't be this loud. So, does this sound normal? BTW, the dealer told me that they contacted VW engineers and was told that it was perfectly normal. I don't really buy that!! I've only had this car for almost a month (took advantage of the CPO w/ 2.9% fin) and I don't want to have to deal with this if this seems to be an issue. I guess who does, huh?
I bought a used 2010 GMC Terrain with 28,000 miles on it in April of 2013. Two weeks after I purchased the car I heard a knocking sound and the check engine light came on. Took it to Dealer and they said the car is low on oil. They put in oil. Two weeks later check engine light comes back on. They put it through a test for oil consumption and that they said the car is using an excessive amount of oil. So they had to change out all of the pistons. One month later the check engine light comes back on.
Dealer calls GM and they say to reset computer....... three weeks later check engine light comes back on....... GM now says to dealer it needs a new engine computer. Not an hour after I pick the car up from it lastest stay at the dealer the light comes back on. GM doesn't know what it is. The mechanic at the dealer is awesome he did some research and thinks the problem is the gas. I now need to put in 90 or above so the engine won't knock. Not happy right now I didn't think that I would have to put in a high octane gas when I bought the car. Terrain owners do you have to put in a high octane gas?
In 30 years of wrenching on cars, I've never encountered this problem. Replaced the pads and left rotor. Rotor is typical Chinese rotor. While there, replaced the wheel bearings. Also knocked out the races (with a brass drift) and replaced the races with the ones that came with the new wheel bearings. The bearings are NAPA bearings. Packed the wheel bearings just like always.
Applied some grease just like always on the spindle. Put it all back together. Tightened the wheel bearing nut while rotating the rotor in the opposite direction. Went to maybe 10 ft lbs. Backed the nut off, set it firm finger tight. Installed the cotter pin. Got a whole bunch of sloppiness in the wheel bearings. I can feel a LOT of it when rotating from the 6 o clock and 12 o clock position. What did I miss? NEVER had this happen before. 2002 f 150 2wd
For the last couple of weeks I've had a clunking sound coming from the right rear end of my 1997 Lumina when I drive over bumps. Took it to a garage the other day and discovered that the area around the right rear shock (strut?) mount is severely rusted. I assume that other probably causes were checked, but the mechanic was suggesting that this was the reason for the noises I've been hearing. From what I saw, and what the mechanic said, the shock mount is integrated into the wheel well of the vehicle. There's little good metal left in order to support the shock and coil spring, so obviously this situation needs to be addressed, but can this really be the source of the noise? His idea of a fix was that I would have to find a donor car with good metal and use that to replace the rusted wheel well on mine. Not something that his shop can do, but I'm sure there are others in my area that can.
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