2001 Prizm/Corolla - CEL is off, no trouble codes, all other monitors are ready, but not the catalytic convertor. No repairs since a new battery mid December. The smog guy (California) says that he can let another monitor go but not the cat; it costs him too many points.
Is this a converter in the early stages of failure (150,000 miles; some oil consumption)? Or is there another possibility?
I have a 2001 Chevrolet Prizm with check engine light showing PO420 and PO446 codes, what could be the problem?
View 1 RepliesI tried to get emission test on a 2006 f150 5.4 and they cant do the test as " OBD monitor not ready, how to do a force test or what to do.
View 2 Repliesi know these are both catalyst codes. my car feels like it doesnt have any power past 4,000 rpms and im thinking that its because my cat is blocked and is screwing up everything. if i replace the cat do you think that will work?
View 1 RepliesOn my 2002 (AVH) 2.0L 4cyl Jetta I have a persistent P0420 error code: "Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold"
I changed the oil, cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor, replaced the coolant, thermostat, and coolant temperature sensor. But it's still showing up.
OBDII says it could still be:
A damaged or failed oxygen sensor (HO2S)
Downstream oxygen sensor (HO2S) wiring damaged or connected improperly
Damaged or leaking exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / muffler / exhaust pipe
Retarded spark timing
The oxygen sensors in front and behind the converter are reporting too similar of readings
Leaking fuel injector or high fuel pressure
Cylinder misfire Oil contamination
I just bought a 2002 2.8L Passat 4Motion. On the way home, the check engine light came on. My friend lent me his generic brand diag tool to scan that check engine light. It came up with two codes. The first one was:
P0421
Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The second code was:
P0431
Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
What this means or what I need to do to fix it? Is it a matter of cleaning something or replacing something? If it's something I can figure out, I'll do it on my own. Mistakenly, I erased the code and now the light is gone--thought I was deleting the code from the handheld unit. I can't open my hood.
Ok, so I scanned a 2006 Passat 3.6 4mo. I got a fault for the catalyst system, a fault for the AWD controller, and a fault for the Haldex pump. I'm guessing the catalyst code is for the oxygen sensors? What should be my next course of action on the AWD stuff?
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Address 01: Engine Labels: 03H-906-032-BLV.lbl
Part No SW: 03H 997 033 M HW: Hardware No
Component: P3.6-FSI-LEV2 G00 2370
Revision: --H11--- Serial number: VWZCZ000000000
Coding: 0000175
[Code] ....
I have a very weird thing going on with my car. It all started about 3 month ago. The car will not accelerate and it left me broke down on the side of the road. It will start but it will not move fwd. So i took it to a mechanic, he told me it was the ignition coils, so he replaced them with some used ones that he got from the car junk yard. It worked for a like 2 months. About a month ago its stared doing it again! So i thought that since the mechanic replaced the ignition coils last time with some used one, i out to try some new ones. so i went ahead and bought some new one and the spark plugs and replaced them, $100 later it still doing it.
Mind you that this time around, the car will take a bit to accelerate once i get enough speed the car will only go 70mph, then the car starts to feel like its going shut off but it doesn't. Also it feels like the car is being held back, and every now n again will have a little burst of energy. I also see the gas consumption its a bit faster, i guess since I'm pressing the gas pedal all the in but can not go more than 70mph.
I'm very happy with the car. the last posting I made was about a pulley, the mechanic said is was a $26 bracket causing drag.
View 2 RepliesMy 2003 F150 4.6 wouldn't pass emissions testing last week due to the OBDII not being ready to test. I knew that would happen as I had just reset the code (I get a CEL anytime after a heavy rain - I think it is a bad coil coming). After I reset and drive for a while, I don't get any codes and everything is ready but the EVAP.
I reset the computer on Friday. Let it sit overnight. Filled the gas tank Saturday. Sunday I drove a 200 mile round trip. Ran the cruise control at 60 for a good 50 miles. I did some local running around. All things that should have/could have triggered the EVAP system to run.
Where is the best place to start looking for problems? I changed the gas tank a couple years ago and I think everything is tight on it. Should I just change the gas cap in case it is the culprit?
i have done mechanic work most of my life and can't figure out whats happening with this car. it'll idle fine but when u give it fuel it's like it cuts out. have changed fuel pump,timing,and checked most sensors?! 2000 chevy prizm twin cam toyota motor same as corolla.
View 2 RepliesI drive a '98 Chevrolet Prizm with 205K miles on it. It drives perfectly fine except in heavy rain/snow. In those cases, I've noticed that as soon as I drive through a big puddle (i.e., get the undercarriage wet, it seems), my car won't accelerate above 35 or 40 mph. If I attempt to push it faster, the engine (?) makes a terrible roaring sound, frankly like it's going to die on me. Interestingly, if I pull over, turn off the car, let it "dry out" for a couple of minutes, and then restart it, it drives fine once again (assuming, of course, that I don't hit anymore wet patches).
I first noticed this problem about 2 years ago during the winter when, on one occasion, it had just snowed heavily and I drove through a particularly sludgy patch on the highway. Since then, I've only had the problem recur a few times, typically during monsoon-like rains. However, more recently, I've noticed the problem wanting to occur even during medium-to-heavy rains. The car will start making growling noises in those wet conditions; however, if I keep pushing the car at highway speeds, eventually the sound goes away rather than crescendo-ing to the really scary roaring noise. I'm going to hazard a guess that by continuing to drive my car at highway speeds, even when it starts growling, it dries out whatever part is getting wet and thus getting "irritated".
In sum, it sounds like my car is becoming more sensitive to and/or more exposed to moisture.
I have a 1999 Chevy Geo Prizm a.k.a. Toyota Corolla. I am new to car ownership and don't know much about maintenance yet.
Recently, the back right wheel has started making a soft "wumm wumm wumm" noise when the car is in motion. The faster I drive, the more the noise speeds up, so it seems like something is coming loose or out of alignment. I've driven over a fair number of potholes in the last couple of months, and while I don't remember any particularly gnarly ones, I imagine that's what has caused the problem.
Any guesses as to what might be going wrong, how dire it is, and what I should expect to hear from the mechanic when I take it in?
the car has 180,000 and last month i noticed a slight hum during acceleration. the car also has a slight whine when the weather is cold. i checked the serpentine belt, and it's good. Could it be the power steering fluid? Is this normal or am I a knob?
View 12 Repliesit's really a 1987 Nova, but the drop down menu didn't list that option. I have been working on trying to figure out the cause of this problem for a pretty long time. During the last several years it had been running deteriatingly worse until I did an ignition tune up and replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, and the distributor cap (and rotor). That restored operation back to just the original problem of random but often poor or inability to idle. I have spent a lot of time on the carburetor and think that isn't the cause of the trouble. I'm pretty shy about doing this post, but here goes.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1999 Chevy Prizm that I'm trying to keep as long as possible since I'm now working very part-time hours. For the past week or two I put the ignition key in, and can't get it to immediately turn. I check to make sure the car's really in Park, push the key in further, pull it out just a hair...between each step I try to get the key to turn and start the car. After 4 or 5 tries it does turn and the car starts right up.
I've tried both my "regular" key and my spare, thinking maybe one was a little worn and not fitting quite right. I'm getting worried that the time will come when I won't be able to get the key to turn. Is this a problem with the lock part of my ignition, or is there some glitch that's telling the car it's not in Park even though it is?
I just had to spend a good chunk of my emergency money to get tires and brake work on this car so it could pass inspection, and when I told the man at the garage about the key problem he shrugged and made some vague comment about old cars having problems.
I took my 2002 Chevy Prizm to a Firestone shop to have the tires rotated, battery and serpentine belt replaced, oil changed, and brakes adjusted. Yesterday, I noticed a chirping sound when I accelerate. Yesterday was also the first time since the maintenance work that I was driving without any music playing. So, it's possible that the chirping sound was happening before.
View 5 RepliesI have a Chevy Prizm 1998 and I drive about 250 miles a week. Recently I started going through a quart of oil in 2 weeks. My engine sounds good. I am religious about changing my oil and filter every 3,000 miles and I check my oil every time I fill up my gas tank. There is no blue smoke and no oil spots on the garage. Could it possibly be a small leak that only occurs while I am driving or a am I dreaming?
View 4 RepliesI am trying to diagnose a problem that a friend is having with their '92 Prizm (which is really a rebadged Corolla). It started when they went out to drive it one day and the battery was dead. So I checked it out, and it seemed like it had a dead cell. Bought a new battery and put it in, and everything seemed fine for a few weeks.
Then, the same thing happens. I take another look and notice that the positive battery terminal is very badly corroded. I replaced it with a new one and cleaned the negative terminal as well for good measure. I jump start the car, everything seems fine again for a few weeks.
This time, the car stalls out as they are leaving a parking lot. As in, they had driven somewhere with no problems, and then they started the engine again, and it died as they were moving at parking lot speed. So now I start thinking maybe it is the alternator or voltage regulator (I believe the regulator is inside the alternator on these, right?). I took the alternator to Autozone, and they tested it and said it was fine.
After that, I checked all the fusible links and fuses, all were fine. I checked the ground strap from the battery to chassis and engine to chassis, and they look fine as well. I have run out of obvious things to check.
When my vent is on the face setting, a grating/whistling noise emanates when the fan is on.This does not happen on the floor or defrost positions. The noise diminishes when it is in the face and partial floor or defrost setting. What may be causing the noise and how I could fix it.
View 1 RepliesI drive a 2001 Chevy Prizm with 90,000 miles on it. Lately, when I'm accelerating over about 30 to 40 mph, my engine starts to make a grinding noise, that gets worse the faster I go, or the more pressure I apply. The noise also happens when I'm going up hill. What's causing this noise, so I don't look like an idiot when I take it in to my mechanic?
View 1 Replies