I have a Chevy Prizm 1998 and I drive about 250 miles a week. Recently I started going through a quart of oil in 2 weeks. My engine sounds good. I am religious about changing my oil and filter every 3,000 miles and I check my oil every time I fill up my gas tank. There is no blue smoke and no oil spots on the garage. Could it possibly be a small leak that only occurs while I am driving or a am I dreaming?
View 4 RepliesI've owned a 2001 Chevy Prizm LSi for about 12 years and it's been burning oil at a rate of about 1 quart every 200 miles or so. No tail pipe emissions or noticeable smoke and no OBDC codes.
View 19 RepliesThe ABS light on my Chevy Prizm 98 comes on when I start the car and then turns off in a few seconds. The last few days the light does not go off the entire time the car is running. The light does not flash it just stays on. It's never done this before. Does this mean I have an issue with my brakes? I replaced the front brakes last year but I'm fearing/dreading rear brake replacement. I have no signs that they need to be replaced but am wondering if the ABS light is telling me I'm reaching the rear brake replacement day.
View 8 RepliesCheck engine light emissions evap system code comes up when the system is scanned what could be problem? 1998 chevrolet prizm...
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 Chevrolet Prizm that will not fast idle when it is started in cold weather the first thing in morning. what could be the problem?
View 4 RepliesI have a Chevrolet Prizm 1998 and the heat and cooling system only works on the highest setting which is actually the fan setting. When I have it on any of the other settings such as low or med nothing comes out, it doesn't work. I can hear it click on but nothing comes out. So when I'm driving depending on the weather I have the heat or cold air blasting out of the fan until it gets annoying and I turn it off. I've checked the fuses and they're good. I have not checked the relays because I'm not sure how to do that. I haven't taken it to a shop because I'm poor and don't have a trustworthy mechanic and it works just not on low or med. Should I have this looked at? I don't want to be causing any damage but it seems like it could be something simple.
View 2 RepliesWhile driving my 1998 Chevy Prizm, my car lost the ability to accelerate but the car never lost power. I managed to pull over and let the car run for a bit before trying to accelerate again..the car only got up to 30 mph and wouldn't go any faster.....after a couple of hours the car run okay. What could be going on? I got new spark plugs, oil change, and an idle air control valve........
View 18 RepliesI started noticing a burning oil smell a few weeks ago after driving to and from work. Then I noticed drops of oil on the floor in the garage. I wanted to start a consumption test so I scheduled an appointment at my dealer and asked them to look at the leak.
The invoice says they replaced some screws and a bolt near the turbo and cleaned the area. That was Monday. Today there are a few fresh drops and the burning oil smell is back as I drove to work. I made another appointment for Friday. What this could be.?
I'm at 53k miles and glad it's still covered. Just hope they get to the bottom of it.
I just bought a 98 Ford Taurus, I've driven maybe 600 miles on it so far and it's been fine until recently. It first started with this jerking it was doing. I would press on the gas and it would do this jerking thing. And when I would pull up at a stop sign or put it in park it will do that jerking thing too like it's going to stall but never does. Then last week I start smelling this burn rubber smell, and then I saw a little bit of smoke coming from the right side of the Hood and then the check engine light came on.
It doesn't over heat though. Last nite I was driving, I pull into a parking spot and put the car in park and the RPM 's kept going higher, it scared me so I put it in drive and they went back down. I was going home and as I was driving I took my foot off the gas but the car kept going faster anyways. That's hasn't happened again but the burnt rubber smell, the jerking, smoking, and check engine light keeps happening. It's my only car.
Well, I have the dreaded transfer case leak on my 112000 mile 03 2.7 santa fe. I have just returned from a 12,000 mile trip through Canada, Alaska and then back to Colorado. During that trip I was smelling a burning oil smell and after I came back I traced it to the transfer case. I think it is leaking both from where it mates to the drive train and a one inch seam along the transfer case plate.
It has leaked there for some time(and I had been diligent about filling it up), but this extended trip it has has been more bothersome. I called the local Hyundai shop and they want $1100 and won't guarantee a fix. Is there some product I could use on that one inch seam externally to stop the leak (I know that wouldn't seal the circular seam around the drive shaft)? I kept very accurate gas records and averaged 25.6 MPG for the whole 12k trip running from 55 to 65 MPH.
Just like the title states, there is an intense burning smell (like plastic or electronic) inside my 2007 chevrolet equinox. I first noticed it this morning; last night there was no smell. The smell is most intense on the driver's side under the steering column. I checked the fuses and none of them are blown and everything seems to be working on the interior of the car. I am having electrical issues with the back windshield wiper not working and the passenger airbag seat indicator not working, but both of those issues have been going on for a while now. The only other issue I know of is that sometimes (but not every time) my key won't come out of the ignition when I turn the egine off. To get it out, I push the little release button on the interior of the steering column. I have been doing this for about a year now, but I wouldn't think that that would have anything to do with a burning smell....
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Dodge Neon and recently had transmission work done on the car. When I got the car back the radiator cap was left loose, I didn't know this until I took the car for a drive and it overheated. I let the car cool down, replaced the coolant, and made sure the cap was sealed down. The car now has a slow coolant leak, when I turn the car off I can see it drip underneath for about 2 minutes and then it stops. Also, after the car heats up to running temperature I get a burning rubber smell coming through the vents. What could this be? The car only has 70,000 miles on it and I would like to keep it going if I can.
View 6 RepliesMy ranger decided to start leaking fuel somewhere probably a few weeks ago. I can smell it whenever I start the motor, and sometimes while driving with the windows down. Last night, I finally looked into the problem. I took the intake air hose off. The hose, air filter, and whole intake smells like gas. I'm thinking that shouldn't be the case on a fuel injected engine. After seeing some people talk about the Fuel Pressure Regulator go bad, I pulled the vacuum line off of it, and it has a very strong gas smell. I don't see any gas coming out of it, though, even with the motor running. Everything I read says if the regulator is bad, then gas should come out of the vacuum line. Is there another check I can do on it to confirm this is the problem? Is there somewhere else I should be looking? It got two new heads right before this problem started, so its quite possible I knocked something putting it back together.
View 6 RepliesI have a 5.0L with around 144k mileage. I noticed a reasonably severe leak of anti-freeze the day after I had the oil changed at a shop (coincidentally?); nothing out of the ordinary on that day. The temp's have never showed as being beyond normal. I saw that there was a bit of weeping from the water pump, so changed that believing that the gaskets might be the real culprit (third pump on this truck). I re-filled the system with fluid (green silicate as the system had been modified several years back), ran the engine, and found that there is still a leak, not as severe, but most definitely bad. It honestly appears to be dripping at the oil pan gasket, just left of the crank on the lower end. The location doesn't really seem logical to me.
View 4 RepliesI could not get my car to start yesterday so I had my friend jump it and we got it started. took my daughter to school this morning no problem car started right up ran fine 2 hours later car wouldn't start again but this time when we tried to jump it the horn was honking from the car alarm. disconnected the terminal took the battery to the shop had it tested battery is good cleaned the terminals with a wire brush hookef it back up and the horn startef honking again disconnected the battery to stop the Horn.here's where it gets really weird #1 my horn hasn't worked in months #2 I have never used the alarm didn't even know it was activated.I inherited the car last year from Grandma who did not like the keyless entry and had it removed she paid big money to Chevy to have it removed so I have no keyless entry to my car and from what I can find online that is the only way to stop this! its a 98 Chevy Prizm I only have 49 thousand original miles car is in beautiful shape have never had a problem until now. it has the original cassette deck no CD, it doesn't even have electric windows, what can I do.
View 9 RepliesA few days ago I went to start my car and nothing happen I saw no dome light so I went and purchased a new battery. I replaced the battery and saw I had a dome light. I went to turn over the car and nothing happened. No sound no nothing, I did notice my radio (( Stock still )) was not able to be turned on..
View 5 RepliesI have a very weird thing going on with my car. It all started about 3 month ago. The car will not accelerate and it left me broke down on the side of the road. It will start but it will not move fwd. So i took it to a mechanic, he told me it was the ignition coils, so he replaced them with some used ones that he got from the car junk yard. It worked for a like 2 months. About a month ago its stared doing it again! So i thought that since the mechanic replaced the ignition coils last time with some used one, i out to try some new ones. so i went ahead and bought some new one and the spark plugs and replaced them, $100 later it still doing it.
Mind you that this time around, the car will take a bit to accelerate once i get enough speed the car will only go 70mph, then the car starts to feel like its going shut off but it doesn't. Also it feels like the car is being held back, and every now n again will have a little burst of energy. I also see the gas consumption its a bit faster, i guess since I'm pressing the gas pedal all the in but can not go more than 70mph.
I'm very happy with the car. the last posting I made was about a pulley, the mechanic said is was a $26 bracket causing drag.
View 2 Repliesi have done mechanic work most of my life and can't figure out whats happening with this car. it'll idle fine but when u give it fuel it's like it cuts out. have changed fuel pump,timing,and checked most sensors?! 2000 chevy prizm twin cam toyota motor same as corolla.
View 2 RepliesI drive a '98 Chevrolet Prizm with 205K miles on it. It drives perfectly fine except in heavy rain/snow. In those cases, I've noticed that as soon as I drive through a big puddle (i.e., get the undercarriage wet, it seems), my car won't accelerate above 35 or 40 mph. If I attempt to push it faster, the engine (?) makes a terrible roaring sound, frankly like it's going to die on me. Interestingly, if I pull over, turn off the car, let it "dry out" for a couple of minutes, and then restart it, it drives fine once again (assuming, of course, that I don't hit anymore wet patches).
I first noticed this problem about 2 years ago during the winter when, on one occasion, it had just snowed heavily and I drove through a particularly sludgy patch on the highway. Since then, I've only had the problem recur a few times, typically during monsoon-like rains. However, more recently, I've noticed the problem wanting to occur even during medium-to-heavy rains. The car will start making growling noises in those wet conditions; however, if I keep pushing the car at highway speeds, eventually the sound goes away rather than crescendo-ing to the really scary roaring noise. I'm going to hazard a guess that by continuing to drive my car at highway speeds, even when it starts growling, it dries out whatever part is getting wet and thus getting "irritated".
In sum, it sounds like my car is becoming more sensitive to and/or more exposed to moisture.
I have a 1999 Chevy Geo Prizm a.k.a. Toyota Corolla. I am new to car ownership and don't know much about maintenance yet.
Recently, the back right wheel has started making a soft "wumm wumm wumm" noise when the car is in motion. The faster I drive, the more the noise speeds up, so it seems like something is coming loose or out of alignment. I've driven over a fair number of potholes in the last couple of months, and while I don't remember any particularly gnarly ones, I imagine that's what has caused the problem.
Any guesses as to what might be going wrong, how dire it is, and what I should expect to hear from the mechanic when I take it in?