Chevrolet - Montecarlo :: 2003 - High RPM Random Misfire
Aug 22, 2014
Here's the deal with this car i just did head gasket, valve job, all new intake gaskets and spark plugs. Car idles fine and mid throttles fine but with high throttle it wont shift and flashes the random misfire light p0300 it seems to run out of power. I've heard everything from maf sensors to ignition coils and wires. i was just wonder a good place to start and good test to do. I have most testing equipment including scan tool so i can ride with it. o and all cylinders compression tested above 150.....
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I have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo SS with 120,XXX miles on it. For the past year, I've been hearing a very loud POP or KNOCK when I put the car in reverse from park. Here are the details that make it so vexing.
• It only happens first thing in the morning. For the rest of the day, there is no pop.
• It only happens in cooler weather (less than 50°.)
• The sound comes from different places each time. Sometimes it sounds like it's in my rear passenger wheel well. Sometimes from the front of the car. Sometimes from directly beneath the driver seat.
• Rarely, there will be times when I'm driving and I "goose" on the gas, there will be a light pop sound. (when in drive)
I've had all of the motor mounts replaced (per mechanics opinion) and the problem persisted. My mechanic suggested it might also be transmission mounts but he doesn't know without actually replacing them. From visual inspection, he didn't see anything suspicious. Since the car is probably near the end of its life, I didn't want to spend a lot (more) on something that might not even be the problem. I asked if it was safe to drive and he said yes. I have noticed that when I put my car in reverse each morning and hear the pop, it seems to jar the car rather violently.
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My 03 Chev Avalanche is giving me a P0300 code (multiple or random misfire). With no distributor or individual coil is this something I can fix myself or is it shop time?
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I have a 2002 Monte Carlo what recently had a new radiator, thermostat, intake manifold gaskets replaced. I was spewing coolant everywhere. Since the repairs with all new OEM parts, I still get the 'Hot Coolant Temp" warning on my dash. The temp gauge is pinned at 260 but minutes later drastically drop to under half way after which it seems to balance out at slightly under half way.
I also see the 'Low Coolant" as well even though I am full. All of this occurring while driving. I checked the oil and underneath the oil cap. No frothy or milkiness. Exhaust seems ok, no white smoke. The heat inside my car when i run it seems to go from warm to cold and back again. I'm praying it's not a cracked heard or blown head gaskets.
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I found a steal of a car for my son, a 2003 Monte Carlo SS. The car had been hit slightly in the LF corner. The car needed front brakes, so I bought a package off Ebay that had rotors, pads, and wheel hubs. I replaced the LF wheel hub when we did the brakes and kept one for a spare since the RF felt good.
Shortly after replacing these parts, the car started to make a popping sound when you would turn right. The popping sound is much like an exhaust pipe dragging on the ground. We checked to make sure the was no contact with moving parts. After reading several forums, we decided to replace the LF hub with the spare we had. This did not fix the situation, so we put the first replacement LF hub onto the RF. Still no fix.
After this we decided to take the car to a empty parking lot and drove in circles trying to find the source of the noise. We discovered that the noise would go away if the car was put into neutral. We were still unable to locate the source of the noise.
So I decided to jack the car up and put it in gear and turn right. The noise did not occur with no load on the tires. However the u-joints on the axles were making some excessive noise, so I put in a new set of axles. Again this did not fix the noise. Now thinking the source must be in the differential.
Well two days after putting in new axles, the transmission went out. This will surely fix it, right? Well the mechanic that fixed the transmission said the pump had gone out, and it appeared the differential was creating shavings that caused this situation. GREAT WE FOUND THE SOURCE. Not so much!
Car still makes noise while turning right after replacing the transmission. I have driven myself crazy trying to find the source of this noise including riding in the engine compartment while my father drove in circles in the local high school parking lot.
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My 2003 MC SS has been acting up, the check engine light starts flashing at me and the car starts shaking when I turn the AC/Heat on. I know nothing about cars and before I take this to a mechanic, what might be the issue, I do not want to go somewhere and get totally ripped off.
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I have a 2000 Impala with a 3800 V6 series 2 with 165,000 miles. The only code I had was a P0300 Multiple random misfire that occured off and on at first, Worse in the city Better on Highway. It would start running on half the cylinders and bogged down, with the check engine light flashing, after getting onto the highway it would straighten itself out at first. I thought i had water in the gas so i ran some heat through it. straightened out for a day then happened again so I thought maybe a should run some premium gas in it, The car ran like total crap until the premium was gone, so i thought maybe it's running too rich, I put 87octane in it and it ran great for a day or two, then it gradually got worse to where it would not straighten up on the highway, tried to die at stoplights and i had to drive it with 2 feet to get it home and park it. I've replaced the battery, spark plugs, wires, ICM checked good, coil packs are good, replaced fuel Pressure regulator, looked for arcing on the spark plug heat shields and it will not start. It turns over but doesn't try to ignite and when I get the slightest rumble of ignition, it backfires up through the manifold and I see a puff of gas or light smoke by the exhaust manifold.
The car had a vacuum leak around the intake manifold cover gasket and a leak on the fuel rail. I pulled the fuel rail off my impala, snugged up the rest of the intake bolts then disassembled the fuel rail, flushed it out and cleaned the injectors the best i could, then reassembled it. before i re-installed the fuel rail I hooked it up to the fuel lines outside of the engine and tried to start the vehicle. all injectors had a nice spray pattern. So i installed the rail and it still didn't start but it had more combustion than before although it's still backfiring like before. Checked the fuel pressure by turning the key on and the fuel pressure went to zero very fast. I blew the rail out with air so to make sure i didn't damage the regulator I replaced it with the old one, ran the test again with same results, so i reinstalled the new regulator. I performed the fuel pressure test a few more times while moving the fuel hoses and when i moved the back supply line the vacuum loss stopped then dropped to zero when i let off of it. So I replaced the fuel line connector and O-rings on the injectors. It no longer has a vacuum leak.
I cleaned the EGR Valve out and had no luck there, then I removed the Idle Air Control Valve-pushed the pintle in, re-ionstalled it and WooHoo! it started! Although it still ran like crap with the same random misfire I was still happy to hear it start.I pulled the plugs on it to do a compression test and all 6 cylinders have between 180-190psi so the engine is in good condition mechanically. I installed new plugs before getting the car restarted and when i removed them for the test they were covered in thick black soot after running for roughly 15 minutes max.
I have (2) 2000 Chevy Impala's so I've swapped sensors from my wifes car to see if it would fix it. I've tested the following MAP, MAF, IAC, coil packs and ECM. None of these made the car change. I believe it is a timing chain because the car has never had a new timing chain and is way overdue, but I haven't had a code for a crankshaft position sensor. Can the timing chain be bad without throwing a code? It's not out of time enough to change the valve timing because I had a good compression test but its not firing right and still has the multiple random misfire. I have not checked or received a trouble code for o2 sensors, crankshaft position sensor or cam sensor. Something has the timing retarded and is dumping extra fuel into the engine because my new plugs looked like they were in the engine for a year.
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Chevy 1999 tahoe 5.7 vortec ... Car hesitates engine light reads random misfire at auto zone. Took to dealer said 10 degrees out of time on his diagnostic machine. Replaced just about every thing on engine dealer said he couldn't fix because he couldn't adjust distributor, I told him on my car that you couldn't adjust timing from distributor, who is right?
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I have a 03 F150 with a bi-fuel 5.4 engine an it has 195000 miles. I have had trouble for some time now with misfires. I bought the truck in october of 2011 with 125000 miles and replaced all the coils and spark plugs because it was misfiring badly will running on CNG. It was fine on gasoline and never had any codes. After I replaced the plugs and coils it ran fine on CNG and gasoline.
This summer 2013 it began missing badly at highway speeds only when running on CNG. If I accelerated the miss would go away until I was light on the throttle again.I checked the misfire count and found the bad cylinder and replaced a coil. Then a day later same thing on another cylinder. I swapped a coil from another cylinder and problem went away for a day. Eventually I chased the misfire around all the cylinders on the engine until I had ended up either replacing a spark plug or swapping a coil on all the cylinders. And I still had a misfire. It seemed to be worse on days with temperatures above 90 degrees. Eventually I got it to stop misfiring.
So now 5 months later I am back again with a misfire. This time it is misfiring on both gasoline and CNG and under any throttle conditions, except coasting. I have no codes. And the misfire monitor is sending me around the engine again. I have replaced a spark plug in two cylinders and swapped 4 coils.
I'm ready to buy all new coils, but I want to be sure that it is not a waste of money since the old ones only have 70000 miles on them.
Two days ago I had the misfire monitor saying #4 in the evening and the next day without me having done any work on it it was saying #6. Later that same day it said #7 and I still hadn't done anything other than drive the truck.
I checked the connections at the firewall on the drivers side with the three large plugs that are held in with a 10mm bolt, they looked fine, no corrosion or burnt pins. I checked the connection at the ACFM which also looks good. I will check the connection at the PCM in the next day or so.
Some other problems that may be contributing:
1. I occasionally get a U1262 code (scp fault)
2. Sometimes when I check the misfire monitor it only shows 7 cylinders, sometime 9 cylinders. I am using an Innova 3160 scanner.
3. I have either a leaking valve cover gasket or leaking head gasket, because I have oil dripping from the rear bottom corner of the passenger side cylinder head right above the exhaust pipe.
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We recently replaced the engine in my 2003 Nissan Xterra and since then we have had a problem with misfires. When accelerating it will periodically. Bog down and the car runs so rough the whole thing shakes. Then it rapidly accelerates and smooths out. Then the check engine light flashes. We have replaced everything not nailed down-plugs, wires, knock, crankshaft and mass flow sensors and on and on.
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I have a 1997 F-150 2WD 4.6L V-8 that began having random misfires as I would drive. I was planning on going out today to get the new plugs and coils however when I got off work and pulled into my drive something happened when I went to leave the truck wouldn't even crank it just made a clicking noise. The battery has full power (the radio ect. still works). I am hoping that the problem is with the coils and plugs but if not ...
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I was involved in a light accident over the weekend. I was hit in the rear by a Prius which didn't do body damage except for the 7 blade harness for my trailer towing. But, now the truck has a random misfire code. You can feel the truck jerk when you go up any grade. We changed the fuel filter and dumped in some cleaner already. One guy says its fuel and one thinks its coils. It is a 2003 F150 extended cab 5.4 with a nearly new motor. The truck has about 175xxx on it and I have had it for about 40xxx. I have not changed coils. We did check the inertia switch on the passenger side and it was not tripped.
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 with 5.4 Triton, 99xxx miles. I was towing my boat when the regulator in my alternator went bad. I drove the truck with the voltage being sporadic for about 10 miles until I could get to a parts store. While driving on the bad alternator, I started noticing a misfire. I replaced the alternator, battery and DPFE. I still have the misfire....but here is the kicker. The misfire only happens when the truck reaches operating temperature. Which, in my limited knowledge, eliminates a fouled plug, COP, bad injector and a vacuum leak. I've got no check engine light so I can't pull a code. The only thing I can think of is to clean the EGR?
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i own a 95 monte carlo z34. ever since i bought it last yr. i have had starting problems. i thought it might be a fuse, checked them all and there fine. i noticed when i pluged in the 2 ingnition fuses back in the fuse block under the hood,the security light lit up for a min then went out. now my car has the chip in the key also. i thought the securty system is failing some how. might it be the tumbler in the colum? if so i read here it could be bypassed, by buying a resister, and spliceing in to a fat orange wire under the steering column, to by pass the security system. is it that easy? if the person who posted the ad with the same problems im haveing could give me more detail instructions on doing this my self,because id rather fix it than take it to a dealer and spend big bucks i don't have.
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I have a 2001 Monte Carlo that I absolutely love. The check engine light has been on forever, despite repairs that should have turned that light off. Just recently, my car has started to gain RMP while I'm stopped or going anywhere between 0-25 miles per hour. This also makes the car physically shake and jolt. Very unfortunate. I turn it on to drive once more and then my check engine light flashed and beeped at me. I thought about waiting to take it in until Monday, but now I think it is best to bring it in now.
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2000 Chevy Monte Carlo... The heater/blower only works sometimes, usually not at all when it's freezing out. when it's a little warmer out, it tends to work more often, but still not all the time. what could this be? my husband tried replacing the blower motor, but that didn't change the situation, so he put the old one back in, and is now puzzled ?
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What can cause a car to jerk forward while accelerating? Other symptoms include loss of HP and MPG. Recently had spark plugs and wires changed. Regular maintenance. I am about to see my mechanic and ask him to check the fuel pressure.
2002 Chevy Monte Carlo ss 100,000mi
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How to fix a gear shift that tends to get stuck once in awhile. What about WD, and how would you apply it? I have a '97 Monte Carlo.
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I have a noise coming from the interior of my car that is incredibly, amazingly, terribly obnoxious. Not to mention somewhat embarrassing when I have a passenger, and it decides to show off.
Part of the problem is that it's unpredictable when it will occur. It could go weeks or even months without making the noise. Out of nowhere, it will start up again and continue once or twice day, or even any time I start the engine.
The best way I can describe it is: TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK
A brief pause of maybe 5 seconds....Then: TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK
If I switch the blowing knob from the driver setting to, say, feet, or dash, it'll stop for a moment and then resume with the TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK
After it gets as many TUK-TUK-TUK-TUK-TUKs out of its system as possible, everything goes back to normal. During this process and afterwards, it blows cool/hot air at the correct setting, so no performance issues.
Car in question is a 2006 Monte Carlo - Any possibility this is a relatively simple DIY repair? I'm comfortable with basic tasks like replacing car stereos, speakers, headlights, oil change...If this'll require much more skill than those sorts of tasks, I'll likely need to put this repair in the hands of a professional.
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Just started getting a p0300 random misfire code on the durango a couple days ago. pretty sure it isn't moisture related since it started on a nice sunny day. it was running pretty rough so it was obvious that it was misfiring. I changed the plugs since it was about time anyway, and they needed it and I cleared the codes. new plugs (put in the oem champion copper plugs) didn't make the problem go away. The engine still ran rough and the code came back. 2 of the plugs looked like they may have been fouling a little bit. they were a fair bit blacker than the rest of the plugs. I went ahead and changed the coils on those two cylinders and reset the codes again. Still runs rough and the p0300 came back. where do I go from here? I am not getting any specific cylinder codes so it makes sense to me that it isn't one or two cylinders not getting spark. 2003 durango 4.7 ....
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I own a 2002 Monte Carlo SS 3.8 6cyl. I believe it has a 4T65-E transmission.
On a regular basis if I drive 20 miles out of town, on my way back the transmission starts to shift hard (long shift?). From my research online, the 4T65-e is a faulty transmission to begin with. Is it worth replacing the Shift and Pressure solenoids? If I were to buy a new transmission where should I look? What are some model numbers?
Oil, trans fluid, filters are changed on regular basis.New catalytic converter. No Check Engine Light.
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