I have a 1986 Monte Carlo SS with 305 HO engine. Recently when driving along suddenly I have hot air blowing out of the vents, then in a few minutes it goes back to the cool air. This happens whether it is set to vent or air conditioner. How can I fix it??
View 8 RepliesI've got this 1998 Monte Carlo with 191K on the odometer. Last year, when it got cold out, the washer pump did not work. But when it warmed up, it worked. This last summer, I replaced it with a new one. I clean out the squirters and verified that it all worked beautifully and was ready for the cold again. Well, it worked a couple of weeks ago, but now that it has gotten cold, it does not work. And the real weird thing is that when you are trying to get the washer to work, the wipers are going, right? Well, when you engage the washer, the wipers slow down, like there is a tremendous load on the circuit, but there is no sound from the washer pump.
View 5 RepliesMy 06 F250 crew with the 6.0 starting blowing the cold AC out the defrost vent and will not switch to the dash vents. It's goning to hit 108 today and stay around 105 for the rest of the week.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0 Turbo Limited and the A/C seems to only be blowing cold air from passenger vents, and on driver side "warm/ hot ". What steps or what i can do to get this fixed.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 GX470. Now that the weather has dropped I have noticed that my heater is taking a long time to warm up all it does is blow cold air out of the vent. Subsequently I have started to notice that they car will start to overheat. It will never get to the point where it will hit the red but it will go up and then come back down to mid range. There doesn't seem to be anything else wrong with the car, it idles fine, starts fine etc. Could these two issues be related?
View 14 RepliesMy 08 Azera blows cold air out the drivers side vent when everything on the right sides blows heat. If I set drivers side 88 degrees it blows some warm air. I changed the cabin filter and that did not work.
View 13 RepliesSo last couple days over the 4th, the heat was over 95.
AC Blowing out of the vent is cold but the rear seats passenger feels warm.
Even with the blower on the higher and temp on the lowest 65 (or lowest setting).
I put my hand towards the rear seat and I feel warm air. Near the vents are cool but its like the AC can't keep up with the heat ?
2010 @ 51k ... 450h ...
My Prius has 198K, runs great and has been trouble free. This week it started acting up. The AC will run for a few minutes, blowing very cold, then will blow warm air for a period of time, perhaps 10 minutes, then will blow cold again for a few minutes. It will repeat this several times, then will blow cold until the end of the trip, about another 30 minutes.
View 7 RepliesAC blows cold for about 10 minutes and then blows hot?
View 2 RepliesWhen I start the car after its been sitting for a few hours it takes at least 10 minutes to the ac to start blowing cold air. If it sits for less than an hour cold air comes out right away. Went to the dealer last summer and everything was working to spec, of course...
View 18 RepliesI have a 2002 Civic LX. A/C worked until a few months ago. It would stay on for about ten minutes and then stopping blowing cold air; it would come back on and then go off again at it's own whim. Bought it to local Goodyear - told them the problem - they charged me about $130 to evacuate and recharge, looked for leafs but told me they saw no problems with the A/C, the condenser was fine, etc. A few days later, same problems started. Runs great for about ten minutes and then does its own thing.
View 2 RepliesHere's what I have. 02 X 7.3L 4x4.
Heater will work fine. Then out of nowhere just blow cold. I can turn it off then back on it'll blow hot for 1 minute or 20 minutes. Then out of nowhere blow cold again. It doesn't matter if I'm highway driving or city driving.
I'm kinda thinking it may be the door in the duct that's just closing. I real don't know.
On my 2003 GX 470 w/ 135,000 I have an issue that I can't figure out how to resolve.
The driver side lets out hot heat and the passenger side lets out cold air. I have the dual climate control and both sides are at MAX HEAT with the blower on HIGH. I have 2 vents for each the passenger and the driver.
The left side of steering wheel vent is allowing max heat. the right side of steering wheel vent lets out warm air. Not as hot as left side but warm. On the passenger side, its only letting out cold air and gets colder if I lower the temp on the climate control for right side.
Engine coolant is full, no lights on dash. Blower motor sounds like its working fine.
My 04 Chevy suburban blows cold for about 15 minutes then turns hot...sometimes it will turn back cold, but not lately
View 2 RepliesTruck has heat when driving but when stopped blows cold air. Replaced thermostat. still blows cold when stopped.
View 5 RepliesI have a weird problem with the A/C on my 93 S10. It will start blowing warm air but if I accelerate real hard it will start blowing cold again.
View 6 RepliesI own a 2001 chevy impala 3.8 and I recently had a good friend of mine whose going to school as a mechanic install a manifold gasket upper and lower but now I am hearing this loud tick tick tick sound for about 2-3 min every time i start my car in the morning and then the noise goes away and its normal it never made this noise before is it harmful and break my engine or is it okay to just leave it....
View 12 RepliesI have a 2000 f-350 that overheated 2 months ago I replaced the radiator...it seemed fine for a month then started blowing cold air then would start to overheat and back and forth so I replaced the thermosat.......but when i checked the old one with a cooking theromometer it was fine. not long after that the heater core started leaking so i replaced that..and now its back and forth overheating and blowing cold air....then fine for 1/2 hour..then back and forth again.. Truck has 250,000 miles on it
View 12 Repliesi own a 95 monte carlo z34. ever since i bought it last yr. i have had starting problems. i thought it might be a fuse, checked them all and there fine. i noticed when i pluged in the 2 ingnition fuses back in the fuse block under the hood,the security light lit up for a min then went out. now my car has the chip in the key also. i thought the securty system is failing some how. might it be the tumbler in the colum? if so i read here it could be bypassed, by buying a resister, and spliceing in to a fat orange wire under the steering column, to by pass the security system. is it that easy? if the person who posted the ad with the same problems im haveing could give me more detail instructions on doing this my self,because id rather fix it than take it to a dealer and spend big bucks i don't have.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo SS with 120,XXX miles on it. For the past year, I've been hearing a very loud POP or KNOCK when I put the car in reverse from park. Here are the details that make it so vexing.
• It only happens first thing in the morning. For the rest of the day, there is no pop.
• It only happens in cooler weather (less than 50°.)
• The sound comes from different places each time. Sometimes it sounds like it's in my rear passenger wheel well. Sometimes from the front of the car. Sometimes from directly beneath the driver seat.
• Rarely, there will be times when I'm driving and I "goose" on the gas, there will be a light pop sound. (when in drive)
I've had all of the motor mounts replaced (per mechanics opinion) and the problem persisted. My mechanic suggested it might also be transmission mounts but he doesn't know without actually replacing them. From visual inspection, he didn't see anything suspicious. Since the car is probably near the end of its life, I didn't want to spend a lot (more) on something that might not even be the problem. I asked if it was safe to drive and he said yes. I have noticed that when I put my car in reverse each morning and hear the pop, it seems to jar the car rather violently.
I have a 2001 Monte Carlo that I absolutely love. The check engine light has been on forever, despite repairs that should have turned that light off. Just recently, my car has started to gain RMP while I'm stopped or going anywhere between 0-25 miles per hour. This also makes the car physically shake and jolt. Very unfortunate. I turn it on to drive once more and then my check engine light flashed and beeped at me. I thought about waiting to take it in until Monday, but now I think it is best to bring it in now.
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