2011 chevy malibu. 3 days ago on my way to work my car would hit about 2500 rpms and drop then go back 2500 and drop continously. I stopped turned it off and it ran fine. now I've noticed when taking off from a stop it's a jerking/quick (only once not multiple times) kind of go. It used to be very smooth. occasionally the rpm problem will return but less severe.
View 1 RepliesMy 2011 malibu has approx. 20,000 miles, it makes a loud humming noise that is very annoying, can't even hear someone talking and must turn up the radio. It gets much worse when you get up to 55mph and above. I thought it might be the tires but they look good, but could it still be the tires?
View 5 RepliesI have just bought a Hyundai Azera 2013 28,000 miles on it. The car is under warranty. I notice not a lot but a good amount of white smoke when I start it in the morning. If it is a warm day I don't see the smoke again. But if is cold weather or a rainy day I see while smoke come out at idle continuously, even after the engine is warm ! I have not noticed that with my Camry or Honda CRV anything like this. I am wondering if it is anything to do with GDI engine ?
I took it to the dealer and they said they could not reproduce the problem. They did multi points checks and everything is ok. Also , I have checked the Carfax report. Looks like the previous owner , who leased the car, did not do all required maintenance except oil changes. I bought the car as CPO .
I have a 1990 suburban that has had a rebuilt x-mission about 50,000 miles ago. At this time when I drive there is a hesitation, split second, when running on flat road. It happens when going up a hill, too.My mechanic said change the: plug wires, then the plugs and rotor. No difference.
I think the thing is dropping out of OD for a split second and then going back in. If I drive in 3rd, I don't think it is happening. Isn't there a relay or solenoid that controls this function?
I have a 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD with the 5.3L V8. Tahoe has 134K. At about 125K miles, I replaced air filter with a K&N, new OEM spark plugs and spark plug wires. The Tahoe has been running great and was getting normal mpg until recently. 15mpg in town and 17mpg on the road is what I normally get. The last 3 fill ups my mpg has been below 13.5mpg. Car still runs great but at 13mpg it's starting to hurt a little financially. Weather here in NC has been normal, my driving conditions or habits have not changed, etc. What could be causing my mpg to drop by so much while the suv still rides smooth and straight?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1986 Chevrolet El Camino with a small V-8 engine. The vehicle has 150,000 miles on it. It starts and runs fine. It does not use oil. My problem is the oil pressure. After the car runs for a short time, the oil pressure starts dropping. It will drop all the way to 0 if I let it. I have had the sending unit replaced and it did not work.
I have had two mechanics look at it and they have not been able to solve the problem. One checked it with a mechanical gauge and confirmed the low pressure. He suggested a higher weight oil and an additive. The other mechanic's solution was to raise the idle speed. I have had this vehicle since it was new and always kept the oil changed and all other maintenance done. I would like to keep the vehicle and complete any repairs necessary.
My question: Is the engine repairable economically or does the engine need to be replaced and what is causing this problem.
I have a 2000 chevy s10, it has a brand new battery and alternator. When the battery is charged the battery meter will keep dropping until the dash is completely off when I am driving, then i wont be able to start it unless i get a jump or charge the battery. why is the battery draining so quickly?
View 4 RepliesI have an '02 malibu that got hot and now won't start I have pulled the plugs and there isn't any water in the cyliders. And none in the oil, what to check next?
View 6 RepliesWhen I take my car in to have an oil change/checkup the garage tells me my wheels need to be balanced. However I do not have any indication that I need wheel balancing. The tires do not show unusual wear, there is no shaking while driving in the city, nor when on an expressway driving from 40 to 70 MPH. Is it possible I really need to balance the wheels?
View 12 RepliesI brought my car back to the dealer last week because my stereo volume keeps dropping for no reason while driving and I have the ASL turned OFF. the dealer said unless they can duplicate the problem there is nothing they can do. I just got the car in july...
View 1 Replies2013 2.0L Limited with dealer tint. Since new no issues with the radio on the car (XM or FM).. the last few months the signal seems to be continuously getting weaker... stations are now dropping off and only really local stations come in clear.
What could be causing this? Other people and spouses car have no issues picking up the same stations so its not atmospheric. I doubt its the tint, it was done by the dealer and I've had no issues for 3.5 years.
I have a 2003 Chevrolet Malibu LS.
The bulb for the parking light on the right headlight doesn't come on, it only comes on when the turning signal is activated. I'm not sure if it's the bulb or the fuse? If it's the fuse, do I need to buy electrical gloves and disconnect the battery before I "operate".
I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu (187K mi). Last year I was driving to work (24 mi one way) and noticed when I came to a stoplight the car seemed to be really hard to stop. When the light turned green and I let off the brake, it jumped forward pretty hard then continued on the way. Once I got to the parking lot and put it in to park, the RPM's went WAY up to around 3K the second I put it in park. It did this on and off for a week or so, one time getting so high in park I was scared to drive it. It was really sporadic. It quit for a day or two, then started again. I finally took it to a transmission shop...a national chain that is supposed to be good.
After 2 weeks they still didn't know what was wrong, charged me $500 for looking at it...didn't fix ANYTHING and it's been fine for almost a year. The only thing they charged me for was hooking it up to their computer and doing diagnostics. They said they were going to have someone test each wire one by one because it was showing a computer malfunction. However they did not actually do any work on the car. Just tests. I got it back and it worked fine for some reason. Now it's started to do it again. Rev'd really high, up to 2K when I put it in park last night..but today it's been fine. What could this be, and who do I trust?
Wanting to no what the inlet and outlet ports for heater hoses on a chevy 350. I have a air gap intake with the the four water hoses 2 in the front and to in the back and of course the one on the water pump.
View 1 RepliesRecently my malibu would crank but not start. The consensus was fuel pump. I usually use Cole Muffler since they're close but I've had too many issues with them so I decided to take it to Sandone Tire. Upon further inspection, it turned out to be a wiring issue. I then received a call telling me that when the fuel pump was tested with their equipment, it had 0 electrical charge, and would not run the car for more than 3 seconds, essentially indicating that there was now a pump AND wiring issue, and the pump had to be replaced.
When the work was completed, about 2 days later, i hiked to Sandone to get my car, and was hit with an almost $900 bill. $300 fuel pump plus labor, $300 labor to run the testing equipment on the electrical system, gas fillup, tow, etc. I was told "Well, we fixed the problem of the car not running, as far as the other issues (small ongoing, and possibly linked electrical problems like lighter/ac, radio, locks, etc.. that may have led to the current problem) we'd have to bring it in and look at that"
I turned on the ignition to listen to the new fuel pump, and it would not stop priming. I read that that it can be 1 of 2 things, the fuel pump relay or the pcm not receiving the signal to turn it off after a few seconds. I tried to get back into the place, but he had locked up for the night. Ok, no big deal. It runs. We'll figure the rest out later.
It's now 1 day later and the vehicle is not starting again. Though this time it "tries" to start, with a little puff of combustion here and there, but will not start. I am going to ask if they put the right octane gas in, and tell them that I had a previous idle air control valve needing to be cleaned issue, but other than that I'm stuck on how to deal with this situation.
Also, if the fuel pump was running fine then "suddenly" crapped out, and the problem is electrical, how the hell does the fuel pump suddenly then need to be replaced because it won't run for more than 3 seconds?
I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu LS 3.1 V6, the car is burning oil, and I want to know your opinion.
The car had thermostat problems and was overheated, after I changed the thermostat the engine started smoking and every body told me it was the head gaskets, but the car is not burning coolant, is actually burning oil.
When I start the car, first is the steam coming up from the tail pipe, then when the car is warm, the oil smoke stars to come out from the tail pipe.
I checked the spark plugs and all six showed a lot of oil on them, so my question is, is this because the piston rings or the engine is getting oil from somwhere else beside the piston rings. There is times when is not smoke at all, and then again a lot of smoke.
In the past I saw cars burning oil from probably one or two piston chambers, but no from all of them at the same time, and on this one when I checked, all the spark plugs were wet in oil.
I was researching about this particular engine, and looks like have some issues with the head gaskets due to overheating and the fact of the heads being made from aluminum. What can I check before taking the engine apart.
My question is what is the possible cause of my car trying to stall when it idles? Here is the scenario. There was no problem with the car this morning. I was almost out of gas and filled it up. After filling up about two miles down the road when I can to a stop sign or had to slow to an idle in traffic the car seemed like it wanted to stall. When I was driving at and speed other then idle it seemed fine. When I left work tonight the same thing. but this time when I got close to home the check engine light came on. I did check the gas cap and that seems fine. I was wondering what the possible cause could be.
View 1 RepliesThe ABS light in my wife's car goes on and off intermittently with no apparent. The car has about 47,000 miles on it. Bad connection, computer going haywire, loose or corroded wiring?
View 3 RepliesI heard some noise which seems coming from the brakes. But the noise is always there even when I do not apply the brakes. I think if the noise relates to the brakes or the pads, there should be no noise until I apply the brakes, am I right? My car: Chevy Malibu, 1999. The brake light is not on.
View 1 RepliesGrill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.
I have a 2002 Chevy Malibu 3.1L Automatic that I've replaced the head gasket, intake manifold gasket, and exhaust manifold gaskets on three times in 6 years. The most recent time I think was caused by an overheating problem originally. A few weeks ago it overheated one time and boiled the coolant, but I did not let it redline on the temp-gauge. Still, the next day I found distinct evidence of coolant in the oil. After replacing the full gasket set and thermostat for good measure, I'm still getting an overheating problem. My assumption was that the coolant leaked into the oil and then when the car overheated I put only water in it temporarily which boiled somehow and probably caused more damage. This happened the first time I had a gasket problem years ago.
I'm not actually losing antifreeze that I can tell, so I know it's not the common intake manifold problem. I've checked all the hoses to make sure they're all properly secure as well and I can identify no dampness or evidence of pooling. I generally run the heat to identify if my cooling system is working correctly or is at least somewhat functioning. It never does upon start-up, but I've found that if I rev the engine to above 4,000rpms for a sustained period of time (5-10 seconds) I can achieve what seems to be flow and the heater will kick on. The temp gauge will also level out and seem to run properly. This works about 95% of the time, but I've only tested it on short drives to work and back (maybe 15 - 20 miles).
I've primed the hoses and also flushed any air from the system on multiple occasions, so I've tried to cover all my basis. One thing that I have noticed is that after revving it and getting it to function so I can at least get to my destination, the heater will run VERY hot. Like it will burn your hand if you hold it in front of the vent for more than a minute or two. Unfortunately, when it overheated the first time I just immediately replaced the gaskets because this was the solution the past two times, which held for about 2 years each, so I don't know if this new, weird, problem is my doing or is something that caused the original problem.