My car is idling hard in reverse, and the mechanic said, in fact, a problem with the transmission (a turbine?) Well, a new transmission costs much - so, not much savings there. I was told to try some simple fuel injector cleaner first. Chevy Malibu Classic, 2005....
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 Chevy Malibu recently, out of nowhere, starting idling really hard. It shakes and jumps quite a bit when it idles, much like a car creeps when it's about to run out of gas. It drives fine at speeds over about 10-15 mph, but then when it slows down it gets shaky and bumpy.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1999 chevy malibu with a 2005 chevy impala motor in it. Recently I put my car into reverse and it made a hard clunk and went into reverse. Later on that day I tried to go into reverse and it will not reverse. I had to have 3 people push my car back in neutral. However, in neutral I am able to press on the gas and drive forward... This is an automatic transmission. Am I just screwed and need a brand new transmission?
View 12 RepliesMy car will start but die. it either wont turn over or if it does, the engine goes right off. The radio and lights work though. the throttle & iacv were all good. i got it towed and the mechanic brought it in his garage at end of the day. He said it wouldn't start so they left it for monday. The thing is that my ignition sometimes gets stuck and leaves radio & interior lights on. So when they tried starting car on monday, it was dead. They put different battery on & it started right up. they said everything else was ok. they charged my battery & I had no problems. until today, 3 months later, same problem. both times it happen when I am leaving work & both times it was raining & cold. Could my battery be bad? also wonder if place really checked everything out likethey said.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 malibu , my cars engine light has been for about a week. This is the second time it has happened. lately I have been having trouble starting my car. Does this have anything to do with my car , or because of the cold weather? How important is it for me to get my car checked out?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 Chevy Malibu, automatic transmission. When I put it in reverse and then press the gas pedal, I get a rather loud grinding noise for a couple of seconds. What is causing this, and is it doing any real damage? I have no other problems with the transmission.
View 2 Replies2005 Malibu 2.2L 4 cyl.109,000 miles
If I hit a bump too hard the Check Engine light comes on because the gas cap pops out. Dealer told me this is a common problem with many of the Chevy models earlier than 2007. GM doesn't have a solution, either.
Since none of these cars have a locking mechanism I decided to get a locking cap at NAPA because the locking mechanism would hold the cap in place. Nope! The locking cap is even worse.
When I brake I get a rhythmic noise that starts like a quiet chirp and by the time I have completely put the brake pedal down it sounds like a loud grinding noise. It is a rhythmic pulsing noise, not continuous. I recently got new rear drum brakes, and 2 garages said my front brakes were fine. One guy said it could be the wheel bearing but I looked online and it says that happens when you accelerate, not when you brake. It only happens when I brake at relatively low speeds. In other words if I'm on the hiway and brake to slow down from 70 to 60 or 40 to 30, it won't happen. I also feel vibration in the brake pedal, but only when I have almost completely stopped.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Malibu. After two alignments, a front wheel alignment by an independent shop and a "four wheel" alignment by the dealer, my car still pulls to the left at highway speeds. What else could be the cause of this? Bought the car with 22,000 miles and now have 80,000 plus. No accidents; don't understand what is wrong.
View 4 Replies2005 Malibu Maxx, automatic transmission, well maintained mechanically. About a year ago, while driving up a small hill, my display panel starting dinging and all of the lights came on and my steering felt like it was losing power. After I got to the top of the hill, all the displays went off and bells stopped dinging. I've had the codes checked at the local dealership and the only thing found was that one of the battery cells was low. We replaced the battery about 3 months ago and that hasn't stopped the battery light and bell from coming on when driving up any incline. It still feels like I'm losing steering in these instances. I also tend to accelerate when going up a hill, so I don't know why that would be a problem. A recall has been issued for my car, but I'm not sure if it has any bearing on this problem.
View 9 RepliesI own a 2005 Chevrolet Malibu and am having issues with the driver's door not being able to close. I live in Michigan currently, and the weather here is very cold. When I first start my car in the morning, the door will not latch to the car. It just bounces back after you pull it closed. However, when I get to my destination, whether it is 15 min away or 45 min away, my car door will close. I've tried WD40 on the latch thingy to work with lubrication, but it is to no avail.
View 6 RepliesWhy does my car front end shake when I go pass 65mph steering vibrates & everything inside does to then you can feel that right or left tire shaking not to sure....
2005 chevy malibu classic....
I have 2005 Chevy Malibu that has been making slightly metallic thud noises while turning. The car does not need to be in motion, but will make the noise in both forward or reverse in both directions. The noise is gradually increasing in loudness. I have inspected the CV boots and verified that this car has electric power steering assist. The dealer would not look at it, stating that the "Malibu's do this". Additionally the service rep stated that "if he had it checked out they would not find anything anyway." This noise does not sound like anything that should be ignored and sounds like major failure / safety issue pending. I can find no consensus on what might be wrong?
View 4 RepliesWe recently bought a used 2005 Camry LE 4cyl 2.4L. When we test drove it there were hardly any symptoms and no CEL. After driving it for a week we start feeling a stuttering every once in a while, no CEL still so I thought it might just need a tune up.
Replaced the plugs (which were in bad shape, were Iridiums, friend mentioned it seemed like they were burnt, white blistering like high RPM burn) with new NGK Platinums and replaced the air filter (was also in bad shape, was K&N that was badly clogged up and black).
Drove it around, let it idle, turn on AC, no problem not a hiccup. Next day arrives and the car is misfiring worse than before. CEL comes on too. We get the codes and its the P0304 I mention in the title.
We check the coils and the plugs and they fire, we switch coil 4 and 1 and clear the CEL, then later the CEL comes back on and it's still P0304 so we rule out the coils. The plugs come pre-gapped also.
The misfires are at their worst when idling and trying to accelerate hard, I can hold it at 2000-3000 RPMs with no hiccups or very few ones. Misfires worse with AC on.
Only thing left to do is check compression, try to clean the injector with fuel additive and premium gasoline, or replace the injector, at least that's what I think.
It has 86000 miles.
I have a 2005 Ford Focus Man Trans, and am having issues getting it into first gear and into reverse. This happens most often when the car is cold. I am kind of wondering what it may mean before I take it in to have the issue fixed. It has 65 thou miles on it and I would think that I don't need a new trans already?
View 8 Replies 05 Honda Civic 5spd... 157k original miles, and I bought it new. 1-4th gear no issues. Reverse has always been hard to shift into and sometimes misses getting into gear, but the car has had that quirk since i bought it new in 05. Last month driving home I was cruising in 5th gear and the car just dropped out of gear into neutral. No gear grinding, no noticeable noises at all. just suddenly slowed down and when i went to grab the stick its was neutral.
Since then it did it a lot the following week, but now has stopped. I've talked to a few different mechanics and gotten a few different diagnosis. First the clutch. Another said the transmission, but "we might as well do the clutch since we have it in the shop". Now another mechanic says its just the clutch linkage bushing.Obviously I want the cheapest way to go, but at the same time I need to fix it right since its my only car.
I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with approx 155,000 miles on it(I don't know if that matters). The car started ok at first. When I put it into reverse, I noticed that it was really hard to move the gear shift(which it's normally really easy). I put it back in park and let it sit for a minute thinking it just had to warm up a bit more.
When I tried it again, it was still hard to shift, but this time when it got into gear I heard a loud clunk. This scared me, so I put it back in park and turned off the car. Now it won't start. All of my lights(headlights, dashboard lights, radio) come on, but the engine won't turn over.
I don't know if any of the following is relevant but I'm putting it out here anyway just in case it is: The battery is only a year old(and since all my lights came on, I don't think it's dead)I had an oil change on Saturday. The belts were replaced a few months ago. My check engine light is on because of an O2 sensor.
I have a 2005 Ford F-150 with a 4.6L and auto tranny non 4 wheel drive. I have a hard time moving from park to drive and reverse. Is there a switch that lets you put it in gear once the brake pedal is depressed? Could that have gone bad?
View 5 RepliesLast night at 2am and it was about 10 degrees out (I say the temp because it might matter?) I started my car, let it warm up to normal running standard and backed up. My car moved backwards but the wheel would not turn at all. I pull forward into my parking spot and noticed that the wheel is extremely hard to turn left or right... almost impossible.
I check under the hood and noticed that my car was leaking something onto the group but it was dark and I couldn't quite see what it was.
Checked this morning and I found that my power steering fluid was completely empty. I had a half bottle in my trunk and put it in my car, then turned my car on. All of a sudden I noticed that the fluid is leaking onto the ground. Not really leak, more like a slow/medium pour and the wheel still wouldn't not move.
2001 with the 3.1 6cyl. First thing that started this nightmare is I was noticing a bit of a hiccup after driving for a couple miles. We've only had the car a few months and not sure what maintenance was done so we thought maybe it needed a tune up. Before I got the parts the check engine light came on so I went to parts store to get it read, it was P0302.
Did the wires and plugs and it got worse, the code wasn't p0302 now its just p0300. But after the plugs it also started idling really rough and would be slow to shift. Once it tacked up high and wasn't speeding up. That was only once tho. Also now it has no power its like driving a 2cyl ...
Anyway we decided since the first code said 2 we replaced coil 2, no luck..ok, fuel filter and fuel injector 2, no luck. Also has cleaned various things Im not sure of the technical name for..sensors and air filters and other things.
None of this has worked the car still idles very bad and doesn't have the power it should have. Also cleaned things on fuel rail(?). He is in the process of replacing the crank sensor as someone said if it was all the way bad it would throw a different code but it may just be faulty.
So 2 weeks ago I noticed that after 30 minutes of driving on the highway my steering wheel started making a loud growling noise and vibrating really hard! When I hit the brakes it got worse but got better as I slowed to 30 mph. It doesn't happen all the time and not right away, only after a while of driving and the dealership says without codes they can do nothing...
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