I have a 2002 Chevy Malibu. The passenger rear power window wont go up or down. Other windows are fine. I push the buttons from the rear door and the main control from the drivers door and nothing happens. I don't hear the window motor or anything going on while I push those buttons. I opened up the door panel and window regulator and motor seem fine. Connectors seem fine also.
View 4 RepliesI have a 97 malibu w the 3.1, the back driver side door window wont go down unless i push it down, if I only use the switch i hear the motor working it appears it came out of the track that operates it. I would like to know how i can repair this myself.
View 4 RepliesAlright, when I first crank the car I get a thump on the passenger side. Sounds like something to do with the a/c. It's having multiple misfires and dies at idle when I stop at a red light. It idles horrible all the time. It acts differently depending on how much gas is in it. If its full it runs great but as soon as it hits 3/4 of a tank it all goes down hill and starts shaking. The low coolant light flicks on and off too. The coolant has been going pretty fast out of the reserve tank. I had the radiator flushed and it worked with that a little bit. I replaced spark plugs and the temperature sensor already. What is my next move? Or what does it sound like?
View 7 RepliesI have an '02 malibu that got hot and now won't start I have pulled the plugs and there isn't any water in the cyliders. And none in the oil, what to check next?
View 6 RepliesMy sonata 2009 power windows for the rear passenger doors are not working. From the driver's master switch , i can control all 4 power windows with no problem. But if i go to the rear doors (LH and RH) and use the power window switch from there. The windows don't go up or done. There is no sound like the motor is moving. Not very familiar with power windows circuit. But base on the description, by deduction, does it mean the rear power windows switch is broken ? Is there anything that i should check also. Is there any sites that has a diagram on how the power windows are interconnected.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2002 Trailblazer. Last week I noticed the passenger side front door's window was not working. I then noticed the power lock on the same door was not working and the same with the power mirror on the same door. I have not torn into it yet, any way that would speed up the diagnosis. I have to assume that since everything else is working properly, that there is some wiring harness connection problem in that door.
View 1 RepliesMy question is what is the possible cause of my car trying to stall when it idles? Here is the scenario. There was no problem with the car this morning. I was almost out of gas and filled it up. After filling up about two miles down the road when I can to a stop sign or had to slow to an idle in traffic the car seemed like it wanted to stall. When I was driving at and speed other then idle it seemed fine. When I left work tonight the same thing. but this time when I got close to home the check engine light came on. I did check the gas cap and that seems fine. I was wondering what the possible cause could be.
View 1 Replies2001 XLT V10.. rear passenger window would not go down so I replaced the window motor, all went well.
With the switch and window went down nicely, would not return upwards. Changed switches with the other door, no change. Went to driver door and used the master there, nothing.
Pulled the motor back out, goes only one direction. Tested the old motor, same thing just opposite direction...old motor would not bring window down, new motor will not bring window up. ok..
Now, with them out, I plugged them into the socket again and used the driver door control for the right rear passenger window...nothing at all. At the passenger door itself we have the actuator going in one direction...at the drivers door trying to make the passenger rear actuator work..nada, zip, dead.
Took the motor and plugged it into another door and both motors are working perfectly.. So..can the driver door switch be bad and upsetting the system? I truly hate electrical...this confirms my distaste..
I have a 2002 Chevy Malibu 3.1L Automatic that I've replaced the head gasket, intake manifold gasket, and exhaust manifold gaskets on three times in 6 years. The most recent time I think was caused by an overheating problem originally. A few weeks ago it overheated one time and boiled the coolant, but I did not let it redline on the temp-gauge. Still, the next day I found distinct evidence of coolant in the oil. After replacing the full gasket set and thermostat for good measure, I'm still getting an overheating problem. My assumption was that the coolant leaked into the oil and then when the car overheated I put only water in it temporarily which boiled somehow and probably caused more damage. This happened the first time I had a gasket problem years ago.
I'm not actually losing antifreeze that I can tell, so I know it's not the common intake manifold problem. I've checked all the hoses to make sure they're all properly secure as well and I can identify no dampness or evidence of pooling. I generally run the heat to identify if my cooling system is working correctly or is at least somewhat functioning. It never does upon start-up, but I've found that if I rev the engine to above 4,000rpms for a sustained period of time (5-10 seconds) I can achieve what seems to be flow and the heater will kick on. The temp gauge will also level out and seem to run properly. This works about 95% of the time, but I've only tested it on short drives to work and back (maybe 15 - 20 miles).
I've primed the hoses and also flushed any air from the system on multiple occasions, so I've tried to cover all my basis. One thing that I have noticed is that after revving it and getting it to function so I can at least get to my destination, the heater will run VERY hot. Like it will burn your hand if you hold it in front of the vent for more than a minute or two. Unfortunately, when it overheated the first time I just immediately replaced the gaskets because this was the solution the past two times, which held for about 2 years each, so I don't know if this new, weird, problem is my doing or is something that caused the original problem.
Just replaced intake manifold gasket and valve cover gaskets - Put car back together and now it will 'start' but kills almost right away and the engine sounds like it is missing real bad - checked plug hook up of course. Was told we should not have moved the fuel rail (which we had). I think it sounds like the timing chain is off, but we did not touch that (according to my friend who did most the work).
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 Chevy Malibu that likes to refuse to start every couple of days or so, throughout the day, but never the first start of the day. It's not the fuel pump and it's getting a spark. It happens in all temperatures. Three different mechanics have not figured out what the problem is. From what I've read online, I suspect an issue with the theft deterrent module or something like that it's called.
View 5 RepliesHave 2002 Chevrolet Malibu. Oil is getting into cooling system but antifreeze is not getting into the oil. Cracked block or manifold gasket gone bad or something else? What should I do, repair or replace car?
View 7 RepliesI have a power window issue with my 2002 civic with about 120K miles on it. this has happened intermittently over the last 2-3 years but now it's not fixing itself.
The other day, I had opened all the windows while driving. When I got to my destination and wanted to put them all back up, the driver's side rear window did not go up. Neither the driver's seat/master switch nor the rear door switch did anything. No noise from the window at all when activating either switch. I checked the power window relay fuse under the dash and it is fine. If I try to pull the window up, that doesn't work either.
In the past when this has happened, I typically would just pray for dry weather and wait a few days, and it would eventually work again on its own. I seem to recall that shutting the rear or driver's door a few times might have worked a little too. I have a vague memory from a few years ago that it may have also happened (the same exact problem) with the passenger side rear window, but i can't be 100% in my recollection of that.
I don't drive the car a lot, but i'd like to not have a sheet of plastic taped around the window, it looks pretty junky. I don't really need the rear window to be fully functional (though that would be great) - i would be content to get it into the up position and then never open it again.
My left rear window is stuck in the down position. I thought the motor was burnt out because it was very hot, so I got a new one and replaced it and the symptom was the same. So I plugged the old "bad" motor into the harness and when I turn the key on it starts spinning, which would explain why it was so hot when I took it out. I'm guessing I've got a bad relay or something but where do I look now?
View 8 RepliesI just went into my garage and noticed pieces of my rear coil spring on the ground. 2000 Chevy Malibu LS. Question is, do I have to replace both rear coil springs? They seem to sell them in pairs.
View 2 RepliesWhen I have to push on the brakes for a hard stop, I can feel the brake pedal and the steering wheel shake a whole lot. Also, he ABS light is on. Correlation between the 2 obviously?
View 10 RepliesMy wife drives a 2004 Chevy Malibu and for the past year has had issues with the power steering periodically going out while driving. It has primarily happened when making turns at lower speeds <45 MPH and a dashboard warning will flash power steering when it happens. The temporary fix has been to pull over, turn the car off and back on and it corrects itself, but when taken to mechanic nothing registers as wrong. Was not as serious of an issue when it happened at low speeds, but the other day it happened at freeway speed. Nobody seems to have a solution, including Chevrolet.
View 3 Replies2005 Malibu Maxx, automatic transmission, well maintained mechanically. About a year ago, while driving up a small hill, my display panel starting dinging and all of the lights came on and my steering felt like it was losing power. After I got to the top of the hill, all the displays went off and bells stopped dinging. I've had the codes checked at the local dealership and the only thing found was that one of the battery cells was low. We replaced the battery about 3 months ago and that hasn't stopped the battery light and bell from coming on when driving up any incline. It still feels like I'm losing steering in these instances. I also tend to accelerate when going up a hill, so I don't know why that would be a problem. A recall has been issued for my car, but I'm not sure if it has any bearing on this problem.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2010 Chevy malibu LT with 120000 miles. And today while I was driving my engine disabled and there was a message of reduced engine power. After letting it sit I turned the key and nothing happens all the lights and things come on but the reduced engine power and engine disabled shows up. The car won't crank up. Earlier that day I had my engine coolant temperature sensor replaced. What is going on or what needs to be done? I am getting so frustrated with this car.
View 3 RepliesI had an interesting ride home tonight. I accidentally lowered my front passenger window a little bit and when I tried to raise it I just got a clicking noise. So I drove along hitting the button, hoping the window would close, but it wouldn't. Then, the dash lights and head lights started pulsating/flickering. The engine power wasn't affected and the battery gauge wasn't moving. My vehicle is a 2002 Chevy Trailblazer with 173,0000 miles on it. Replaced the battery a few years back and have had no other electrical problems.
View 19 RepliesI had an '83 Chevy Malibu Classic that slowly lost power until it was nearly undrivable. I rebuilt or replaced every fuel or spark related item I could think of. I finally had the catalytic converter and O-2 sensor replaced. It ran better, then the problem returned about 8,000 miles later. Disconnecting briefly the exhaust did not work. This suggested that I was sold a new converter for nothing, but the mechanic must have done something to get it to run better. The question is: what was the problem and what did the mechanic do to improve it? (hint: I had indications of coolant contamination in the valve covers, any connection?)
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