Chevrolet - Malibu :: 2002 - Oil Getting Into Cooling System / Antifreeze
May 8, 2012
Have 2002 Chevrolet Malibu. Oil is getting into cooling system but antifreeze is not getting into the oil. Cracked block or manifold gasket gone bad or something else? What should I do, repair or replace car?
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I gave my daughter my 2007 Malibu Maxx in 2010. It had at the time around 70,000 miles. Then the problems with the cooling system antifreeze leaks. We've replaced the radiator 9/2011. Drove ok for awhile then developed a leak again spring 2012. Chevy dealer in 4/2012 says wed need a new coolant tank. Replaced that no problems until 10/2012. Leaks again then Chevy dealer says we need a new water pump. Replaced that item.
Guess what here we are in Feb of 2013 and we have another leak. Back to the dealer and they say that a radiator cap located midway down the radiator was broken apart and they replaced that. All procedures done by dealers have included a pressure check save for when the radiator was replaced. So here we are at March 1, 2013 three days after the last repair and radiator fluid is leaking from the right front of the car again. What could possibly be the problem???
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I have a 2002 Chevy Malibu 3.1L Automatic that I've replaced the head gasket, intake manifold gasket, and exhaust manifold gaskets on three times in 6 years. The most recent time I think was caused by an overheating problem originally. A few weeks ago it overheated one time and boiled the coolant, but I did not let it redline on the temp-gauge. Still, the next day I found distinct evidence of coolant in the oil. After replacing the full gasket set and thermostat for good measure, I'm still getting an overheating problem. My assumption was that the coolant leaked into the oil and then when the car overheated I put only water in it temporarily which boiled somehow and probably caused more damage. This happened the first time I had a gasket problem years ago.
I'm not actually losing antifreeze that I can tell, so I know it's not the common intake manifold problem. I've checked all the hoses to make sure they're all properly secure as well and I can identify no dampness or evidence of pooling. I generally run the heat to identify if my cooling system is working correctly or is at least somewhat functioning. It never does upon start-up, but I've found that if I rev the engine to above 4,000rpms for a sustained period of time (5-10 seconds) I can achieve what seems to be flow and the heater will kick on. The temp gauge will also level out and seem to run properly. This works about 95% of the time, but I've only tested it on short drives to work and back (maybe 15 - 20 miles).
I've primed the hoses and also flushed any air from the system on multiple occasions, so I've tried to cover all my basis. One thing that I have noticed is that after revving it and getting it to function so I can at least get to my destination, the heater will run VERY hot. Like it will burn your hand if you hold it in front of the vent for more than a minute or two. Unfortunately, when it overheated the first time I just immediately replaced the gaskets because this was the solution the past two times, which held for about 2 years each, so I don't know if this new, weird, problem is my doing or is something that caused the original problem.
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I have a 2001 530i BMW experiencing an overheating problem. I replaced hoses, radiator, thermostat, water pump, alternator, both belts all of which went fine. However still loosing anti-freeze, it seems to be coming from under the intake manifold. Looking for step by step instructions on removing it to get to the problem?
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This has happened five times within the past couple of months. I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT. In all cases, I was accelerating while going uphill. I am in Chicago so by uphill, think expressway ramp. The Charging System Light and warning bell come on for about a second and then shuts off. When I get home, I check the battery. In all cases, it is fully charged. The battery is six months old. What could be causing this?
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I have an '02 malibu that got hot and now won't start I have pulled the plugs and there isn't any water in the cyliders. And none in the oil, what to check next?
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I am the proud owner of a P.O.S it’s a 2001 Chevrolet Malibu, the trouble is with my ABS braking system. I replaced both hubs a year ago they have the ABS sensor built into them. The light has started coming on so I checked the voltage on both sides of the car the reading are, driver side at 169mv-320mv and the ohm reading is 1.02K, on the passenger side it reads 140mv-240mv the ohm reads 1.01K, one is a bit lower but well above the 50mv minimum. When I restart my car sometimes the light is out until the ABS kicks in on a wet or gravel road. Then the dash light comes on and the ABS system shuts down again, the only thing a code reader states is low voltage in the system but does not call out what side or where the low voltage is coming from…
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My question is what is the possible cause of my car trying to stall when it idles? Here is the scenario. There was no problem with the car this morning. I was almost out of gas and filled it up. After filling up about two miles down the road when I can to a stop sign or had to slow to an idle in traffic the car seemed like it wanted to stall. When I was driving at and speed other then idle it seemed fine. When I left work tonight the same thing. but this time when I got close to home the check engine light came on. I did check the gas cap and that seems fine. I was wondering what the possible cause could be.
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2004 chevy malibu classic... My blinkers make weird sounds and does not work half the time unless i hit the hazard lights. problem two theft system light comes on and stays on. problem three shut off car to re-start i think i can i think i can then start no problem after words. fourth problem the seat belt buzzer wont stop have to play with key in ignition.
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Just replaced intake manifold gasket and valve cover gaskets - Put car back together and now it will 'start' but kills almost right away and the engine sounds like it is missing real bad - checked plug hook up of course. Was told we should not have moved the fuel rail (which we had). I think it sounds like the timing chain is off, but we did not touch that (according to my friend who did most the work).
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I have a 2002 Chevy Malibu that likes to refuse to start every couple of days or so, throughout the day, but never the first start of the day. It's not the fuel pump and it's getting a spark. It happens in all temperatures. Three different mechanics have not figured out what the problem is. From what I've read online, I suspect an issue with the theft deterrent module or something like that it's called.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Malibu. The passenger rear power window wont go up or down. Other windows are fine. I push the buttons from the rear door and the main control from the drivers door and nothing happens. I don't hear the window motor or anything going on while I push those buttons. I opened up the door panel and window regulator and motor seem fine. Connectors seem fine also.
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I have a Chevrolet Prizm 1998 and the heat and cooling system only works on the highest setting which is actually the fan setting. When I have it on any of the other settings such as low or med nothing comes out, it doesn't work. I can hear it click on but nothing comes out. So when I'm driving depending on the weather I have the heat or cold air blasting out of the fan until it gets annoying and I turn it off. I've checked the fuses and they're good. I have not checked the relays because I'm not sure how to do that. I haven't taken it to a shop because I'm poor and don't have a trustworthy mechanic and it works just not on low or med. Should I have this looked at? I don't want to be causing any damage but it seems like it could be something simple.
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When I have to push on the brakes for a hard stop, I can feel the brake pedal and the steering wheel shake a whole lot. Also, he ABS light is on. Correlation between the 2 obviously?
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Two weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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Is it normal for a small amount of antifreeze to leak out of the small hole on top of my Jaz overflow tank? This is on a 73 Chevy small block.
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When I take my car in to have an oil change/checkup the garage tells me my wheels need to be balanced. However I do not have any indication that I need wheel balancing. The tires do not show unusual wear, there is no shaking while driving in the city, nor when on an expressway driving from 40 to 70 MPH. Is it possible I really need to balance the wheels?
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My 99' Venture is leaking antifreeze and was overheating. Ok, so I figure it's something as simple as replace the radiator cap or something. My mechanic says it looks like my manifold gasket is due to be changed AGAIN. If I had one going into the other then I could see why we're talking oil when I'm talking antifreeze. I parked the car cause I have a second car. So the Van sits for 3 months and leaks into the pan I put to protect my driveway.
I could probably have filled a quart container with the puddle created. It looks Orange so yes it's antifreeze and yes it's SLIGHTLY milky when you shake it around. It doesn't show any sign of oil. BUT when I check the oil on the dipstick it's perfectly fine. The car wouldn't start so you'd say jump it right? Did that and nothing, bought a brand new battery still nothing. So I had it towed to a Mechanic. If he can't find it I'm going to plan B, let the dealer diagnose it, get a quote and take it from there.
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I have a 2003 Chevrolet Malibu LS.
The bulb for the parking light on the right headlight doesn't come on, it only comes on when the turning signal is activated. I'm not sure if it's the bulb or the fuse? If it's the fuse, do I need to buy electrical gloves and disconnect the battery before I "operate".
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I have a 2000 Chevy Malibu (187K mi). Last year I was driving to work (24 mi one way) and noticed when I came to a stoplight the car seemed to be really hard to stop. When the light turned green and I let off the brake, it jumped forward pretty hard then continued on the way. Once I got to the parking lot and put it in to park, the RPM's went WAY up to around 3K the second I put it in park. It did this on and off for a week or so, one time getting so high in park I was scared to drive it. It was really sporadic. It quit for a day or two, then started again. I finally took it to a transmission shop...a national chain that is supposed to be good.
After 2 weeks they still didn't know what was wrong, charged me $500 for looking at it...didn't fix ANYTHING and it's been fine for almost a year. The only thing they charged me for was hooking it up to their computer and doing diagnostics. They said they were going to have someone test each wire one by one because it was showing a computer malfunction. However they did not actually do any work on the car. Just tests. I got it back and it worked fine for some reason. Now it's started to do it again. Rev'd really high, up to 2K when I put it in park last night..but today it's been fine. What could this be, and who do I trust?
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